Trucks.

[Pinned]

V8 vs EcoBoost in early/mid 2010s Fords anyone?

Early gen ecoboost was solid, but as with any turbo motor it will have more things to go wrong at higher mileage. Low mileage, I'd choose the ecoboost. Higher mileage I'd get the V8.

I currently have a 2018 ecoboost and it's great, really like it. They're reasonably fuel efficient and make lots of power when needed.

[caulfield]

Anyone had one and know any quirks other than the classic 'injectors' deal with these? Vin tag says its the LLY motor. Theres a couple things that look like routine maintenance we need to do. Any idea what you'd pay fair for one in within a couple hrs of Seattle right now?

How many miles?

I had an LBZ from 90k-190k and I worked on it more than I wanted to, but none of that was specific to the motor. It kinda depends what you consider routine maintenance. All the front end components were worn out when I got it and then again some time later, both rear axle seals failed before 150, power steering pump failed twice. My electrical issues were all easy (alternator) or inconsequential (dash lights). 2004 was awhile ago now, so rubber stuff like the leaf spring isolaters and cab mounts are probably going to be bad no matter the mileage.

Don't need to do performance mods on those trucks, but I did have a mild tune and exhaust on it. Cab mounts and a full dynamat treatment are the two best things I did for comfort. Skip the exhaust and roof rack and you probably won't need dynamat.

I thought it was an easy truck to work on and the forum support is great. I miss the hell out of mine and think your car optimization sounds solid.

[Falcon3]

Second gen ecoboost trucks had/have cam phaser issues.

Did they try setting phasers to stun?

[El Chupacabra]

maybe landing on this as our intermittent haul/camper road trip rig.

Attachment 408124

04 2500hd duramax

Anyone had one and know any quirks other than the classic 'injectors' deal with these? Vin tag says its the LLY motor. Theres a couple things that look like routine maintenance we need to do. Any idea what you'd pay fair for one in within a couple hrs of Seattle right now?

I have no experience with the diesel motor, but owned a 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 gas motor from 2011-2021. Look for rust issues, especially around the lower edges of the doors and rear cab corners. As mentioned above, expect to replace all the steering and front end parts. Also Google "transfer case pump rub" and inspect for leakage at the transfer case (through the case wall).

Chassis and body parts are cheap and fairly easy to work on.

If the truck you're looking at is lower miles and in decent shape, I'd expect seller to want a lot of $ for it. Up to you if it's worthwhile for a 17-18 year old truck.

[AdironRider]

Rivian tries to raise the price of all pre-orders 20%. Stock immediately plummets like the range of the truck while towing. Rivian reverses course.

I think the sheen has worn off Rivian and people are realizing that it doesn't do any truck stuff well so they might as well just buy the Tesla.

[MarcusBrody]

I don't know if it has been discussed here, but Rivian hiked the price substantially on the R1T. Well, technically, the replaced the original model with a slightly downgraded model (motor on each axle rather than on each wheel), made the base price of the new version what the old version was and raised the price on the old version. Plus things that used to be included in packages were now made extra and options became more expensive. They told people with pre-orders "Tough luck!"

So everyone dropped their pre-orders and demanded their $1000 deposit back. Partially because what had been a good value proposition compared to the competition suddenly was much less so. Partially because things just got to expensive. Partially because a lot of people felt like they had been bait and switched: used as a free loan then to bolster numbers to pad the IPO.

Now they're backtracking and saying that they'll honor the price for people who preordered before the price shift and that people who cancelled them can cancel their cancellation. I'm really interested to see how this plays out for them. The price increases were huge (15-25% depending on how it was optioned). They don't seem to have the production capacity to fill the pre-orders anytime soon, so that basically means that they'll be selling at a lower than desired price for the next several years.

We have a pre-order and were going to cancel but now probably won't. Even if we don't plan on keeping the truck, I'll take a look and see if having the locked in lower price would let me buy and resell/trade it for a profit. I live in a high transaction cost state for cars though, so we'll see.

[MiddleOfNight]

I went V8 when I bought my 2012 in 2018, as I was concerned with long term durability. At that time I didn't own a trailer. If I could do it over again, I'd probably go eco boost for towing and general driving at altitude.

I average 14-15, 2" lift w/ 33s as well, CC 6.5' bed, and 3.73 gears (lowest offered in an F150 I believe. At slower speeds 17 is attainable.

Mine is a '14 6.2L in a SRW 1-ton, 3.73 as well. Mileage and performance improve noticeably with ethanol-free fuel. My 'feel' is that v8 might be advisable if regularly under heavy load, maybe more torque? I have no empirical evidence to support this. Mine is used almost exclusively for hauling/pulling, but it's been a good motor that does great at max load.

[snowaddict91]

Mine is a '14 6.2L in a SRW 1-ton, 3.73 as well. Mileage and performance improve noticeably with ethanol-free fuel. My 'feel' is that v8 might be advisable if regularly under heavy load, maybe more torque? I have no empirical evidence to support this. Mine is used almost exclusively for hauling/pulling, but it's been a good motor that does great at max load.

I think for actual half ton truck stuff, comparing 5.0 vs 3.5eb is pretty much a wash at this point. The other components of the truck seem to be where many common problems are, though as mentioned above cam phaser issues seem prevalent on the early 3.5s.

For heavy towing, I kind of agree with you that a good old hammer of a V8 is gonna be more reliable in the long term. There's a reason they didn't put an ecoboost in a 250+. I was on the fence between a 6.2 250 and 5.0 150, but didn't need that sort of truck when I made my purchase. Things change and now I work from home and would love to have a 250.

[MiddleOfNight]

I think for actual half ton truck stuff, comparing 5.0 vs 3.5eb is pretty much a wash at this point. The other components of the truck seem to be where many common problems are, though as mentioned above cam phaser issues seem prevalent on the early 3.5s.

For heavy towing, I kind of agree with you that a good old hammer of a V8 is gonna be more reliable in the long term. There's a reason they didn't put an ecoboost in a 250+. I was on the fence between a 6.2 250 and 5.0 150, but didn't need that sort of truck when I made my purchase. Things change and now I work from home and would love to have a 250.

Good point. If I were daily driver-ing a truck to any degree peppered with occasional light/moderate towing I would be dang tempted by the ecoboost. Seems like after some quirks got figured out, they are pretty reliable and can get good mileage.
I'd think the ecoboost (or v8) would handle sklar's load/torque needs fine, and EB maybe get better mileage. I didn't look to see if there was a price difference.

Out of curiosity, I just read a few articles .. there doesn't seem to be a drastic difference in powerplants aside from some personal preferences, and what's mentioned above. Supply, availability, price might well make this decision for him.

[sklar]

Thanks for debating on my behalf haha. Seems like a wash more or less.
Getting what insurance is giving me for the van and I'm in the market.
The plan is to find the lowest mileage supercab 6.5 bed I can, slight preference to EB, but we'll see what pops up.

[snowaddict91]

Thanks for debating on my behalf haha. Seems like a wash more or less.
Getting what insurance is giving me for the van and I'm in the market.
The plan is to find the lowest mileage supercab 6.5 bed I can, slight preference to EB, but we'll see what pops up.

Seems like a good plan in the current market. A couple common F150 things to watch for off the top of my head:

leaky rear windows (they use butyl tape and most eventually need re-sealed)

IWE (front hub) noise in 2wd,

stuck blend doors (driver one is a major PITA to replace)

Coolant leaks from the T connector (easy fix, stupid oring inside dries out)- if you smell coolant under the hood, its probably this.

Tailgate torsion bar rusts and pops when opening/closing the tailgate (annoying but tailgate will function fine)

Maybe I bought a lemon 🤷♂️

[anotherVTskibum]

Oh, yeah, the IWE system can be annoying. I had to get a hub replaced last fall, admittedly after ignoring the unhappy noise it was making for a while, and I've had a couple of instances where something froze up and the dash showed a "check 4x4" error after trying to shift from 2wd to 4wd. It did actually engage, as I could feel the traction difference.

It's also worth noting that some higher-trim F-150s have an auto-4wd mode that engages the front as necessary due to slipping, while lower-trim models like mine only have 2WD, 4Hi, and 4Lo to choose from. For highway driving that's mostly on clear pavement but occasionally involves slippery sections, I do wish I had that auto-4 option.

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[BeardedClam]

^^ a friend has a 1ton duramax of that vintage and every year a new electric issue pops up. I have drank a ton of his beer helping him chase down gremlins. It's been a good truck for him, he hauls a slidein camper around the desert in the winter and tows heavy all summer long.

Currently the tach doesn't work above ~25F, but its an ECU output issue, not input, which is good, probably mice chewed or rubbed through cable. Perks of working at an electric shop is buying a scope to assess 'gear'. Simple enough fix given a day of pulling panels for access. Radio head and air controls are also warm to the touch (incandescents?) but working.

How many miles?

I had an LBZ from 90k-190k and I worked on it more than I wanted to, but none of that was specific to the motor. It kinda depends what you consider routine maintenance. All the front end components were worn out when I got it and then again some time later, both rear axle seals failed before 150, power steering pump failed twice. My electrical issues were all easy (alternator) or inconsequential (dash lights). 2004 was awhile ago now, so rubber stuff like the leaf spring isolaters and cab mounts are probably going to be bad no matter the mileage.

Don't need to do performance mods on those trucks, but I did have a mild tune and exhaust on it. Cab mounts and a full dynamat treatment are the two best things I did for comfort. Skip the exhaust and roof rack and you probably won't need dynamat.

I thought it was an easy truck to work on and the forum support is great. I miss the hell out of mine and think your car optimization sounds solid.

Rigs got 205k on it. Pretty use to working on rigs up here in pnwet. Winter time is great, grundens head to toe, headlamp, and lay down in the mud under the rig in our field....

Not trying to tune. Rig is second owner(inherited) and dad bought it up here, drove to the dry south, and died there. Most rusty thing would be the slide in camper we got. Garaged and Dealer'ed its whole life.

Good note on the rubber consumables though. noted.


On the rig optimization front we've been crushing it. This last year I sold my 84 tercel for an 05 element (great decision but still digs at me), and we're working on the casino style blackjack split from the tacoma to this truck and a 14 outback

But really though if anyone wants a

I have no experience with the diesel motor, but owned a 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 gas motor from 2011-2021. Look for rust issues, especially around the lower edges of the doors and rear cab corners. As mentioned above, expect to replace all the steering and front end parts. Also Google "transfer case pump rub" and inspect for leakage at the transfer case (through the case wall).

Chassis and body parts are cheap and fairly easy to work on.

If the truck you're looking at is lower miles and in decent shape, I'd expect seller to want a lot of $ for it. Up to you if it's worthwhile for a 17-18 year old truck.

Thanks for the note

[neufox47]

If gas hits $5 a gallon nationally does that kill the insane truck market?


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[TahoeJ]

How else are you going to show the world how big your penis is? Can’t put a price on that.

[HankScorpio]

The new Ford Everest looks like the perfect 4Runner competitor but its not coming to the US.

An odd decision considering how well body on frame SUVs (err I mean Toyotas) sell and retain value in the US market lately.

https://www.motortrend.com/news/2023...t-look-review/

[TAFKALVS]

The new Ford Everest looks like the perfect 4Runner competitor but its not coming to the US.

An odd decision considering how well body on frame SUVs (err I mean Toyotas) sell and retain value in the US market lately.

https://www.motortrend.com/news/2023...t-look-review/

We have that model in the US, its called a Bronco.

[funkendrenchman]

We have that model in the US, its called a Bronco.

The Bronco doesn’t seat 7.

[lifelinksplit]

How else are you going to show the world how big your penis is? Can’t put a price on that.

On another note some people need their trucks to build you and your ex-wife another house to look down on us from.

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[TahoeJ]

On another note some people need their trucks to build you and your ex-wife another house to look down on us from.

I have a truck, it was a joke. Take it easy, guy.

On that note, recently setup my truck bed beneath my GFC camper and I’m pretty stoked on it.

[The Reverend Floater]

I have a truck, it was a joke. Take it easy, guy.

On that note, recently setup my truck bed beneath my GFC camper and I’m pretty stoked on it.

I dig it. So much better (and cheaper) than a sprinter.

[lifelinksplit]

I have a truck, it was a joke. Take it easy, guy.

On that note, recently setup my truck bed beneath my GFC camper and I’m pretty stoked on it.

Fair enough. Drunk cheap shot.

That's pretty much my ideal setup right there. Still regret not getting in on the mag deal when single first got going.

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[bodywhomper]

Mood lighting?

[TahoeJ]

Same light system goes up top into the tent as well. You can toggle between white and red. Red doesn’t attract bugs the same way, or so I’m told.

[bodywhomper]

Red also preserves your night vision in my experience.