Trucks.

[bearcub69]

I had a '97 F250 with the PSD. Lots of power, but heavy. Not good for off roading, and living in the mountains, it ate brakes and tires like a fat kid at an all you can eat buffet.

im going superduty, not expecting a great offroader.. as long as the 4x4 works good in the snow and it can handle most forest/logging roads

The front leaf springs are dumb and I never enjoyed driving one back and forth to town when I had the choice of something else. Great work truck but I would prefer to daily a 350 single wheel over the 250.

yeah it might not be the most plush, but i want the ability to carry a truck camper and i think thats one of the trade offs.. i would almost prefer a 350 but they seem impossible to find for a good price and a 250 will work

[Bronco]

I had a '97 F250 with the PSD. Lots of power, but heavy. Not good for off roading, and living in the mountains, it ate brakes and tires like a fat kid at an all you can eat buffet.

And keep a spare cam sensor and wrench in the glove box. Always seemed to go bad at the worst time, plowing at-20, etc.

[The Reverend Floater]

Update: Ended up in a Chevy 2500 with the d-max. Slightly less gizmos but not by much. Ride is better than the f250 but I don't love the controls, and the grill looks like Optimus Prime. I will begrudgingly admit that the build quality seems better. Things are tighter and it's crazy quiet. But Optimus Prime....

I did tow a bobcat about 150 miles in 105* heat today in total comfort, which is nice. And yeah, it has ball coolers. Also nice.

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[heckacali]

What year?
Beware the cp4 IP on 11-16 duramax

[bearcub69]

And keep a spare cam sensor and wrench in the glove box. Always seemed to go bad at the worst time, plowing at-20, etc.

the one im looking at already comes w a spare cps

[frorider]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-YKQ...RlODBiNWFlZA==

[cat in january]

Looking for some input from the grumble. I have an f250 super ab with a short bed. Looking to get a cap so I can put a canoe on top and keep gear out of the weather. I have found a maxfit fiberglass one which is maybe made by ARE for a real good price. By the supplied measurements it fits lengthwise and width wise on the bed. If I buy it, I will confirm the fit is good and the door works.

My question is, the cap measures 2” shorter than the cab. Wife says it was look stupid. Hard to overcome a strong opinion by the wife, but wanted to see what folks thought here. Pretty sure it won’t be a problem getting racks so the canoe clears the cab.

[skaredshtles]

Looking for some input from the grumble. I have an f250 super ab with a short bed. Looking to get a cap so I can put a canoe on top and keep gear out of the weather. I have found a maxfit fiberglass one which is maybe made by ARE for a real good price. By the supplied measurements it fits lengthwise and width wise on the bed. If I buy it, I will confirm the fit is good and the door works.

My question is, the cap measures 2” shorter than the cab. Wife says it was look stupid. Hard to overcome a strong opinion by the wife, but wanted to see what folks thought here. Pretty sure it won’t be a problem getting racks so the canoe clears the cab.

Why does it matter what it *looks* like?

[cat in january]

Well that’s my thinking. Was just checking if there was a negative to the lower height other than the obvious lower volume


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[El Chupacabra]

2" shorter in height? Sounds like it's not meant for that truck.

[Name Redacted]

Those Smartcaps are pretty nice. From what I understand they can break down smaller so cheaper shipping, and easier to store if you are limited on space and want to use it seasonally or something like that.

ARE was my favorite topper I have owned. Best quality and workmanship.

[BCMtnHound]

I had a Toyota pickup years ago with a cap not quite to size but did what I needed from it. I wouldn’t sweat the height difference if it performs as desired.

FWIW, I have a Chevy half ton crewcab with 76” bed (standard bed). I had gutter rails installed on the cap as I already had a set of yakima towers and bars. We carry a 17.5’ clipper, and the curve of the boat meant the bow hit the top of the cab very easily. I ended up finding a single yakima bar with roof clamps to put above the rear door of the cab. Way better clearance for the boat, and the extended distance between the front and rear tie points on the canoe is much more stable/secure IMO. Any flex between the cab and bed has been negligible to the carrying of the canoe, even on rough roads.

[XXX-er]

yeah I was carrying seakayaks so i did same ^^ thing, no drip rails so the bar on the cab uses those pads on the paint so I put the clear 3M where the pad is on the paint

[cat in january]

Thanks guys. Still need to clear the wife hurdle, but at $200 willing to push. I was planning to have a rack on top of the cab plus one on the cap both for clearance and better balance.

[AdironRider]

Looking for some input from the grumble. I have an f250 super ab with a short bed. Looking to get a cap so I can put a canoe on top and keep gear out of the weather. I have found a maxfit fiberglass one which is maybe made by ARE for a real good price. By the supplied measurements it fits lengthwise and width wise on the bed. If I buy it, I will confirm the fit is good and the door works.

My question is, the cap measures 2” shorter than the cab. Wife says it was look stupid. Hard to overcome a strong opinion by the wife, but wanted to see what folks thought here. Pretty sure it won’t be a problem getting racks so the canoe clears the cab.

That will look stupid. Listen to your wife.

$200 bucks is a pretty sweet deal but if the cap isn't made for your specific truck model it instantly makes your rig look like a hooptie, and will probably have some negative effects like paint wear, etc that will will negatively affect resale down the road, even if you remove the ugly cap. If none of that matters to you that's fine but I wouldn't do it personally.

I have a Tundra long bed so had to get my cap custom made, but all in all I'm glad I did. Mine is a Century (which is the same company as ARE I believe), and the truck looks like it came that way from the factory. Notably, the paint is a spot on match which really makes it look nice.

[XXX-er]

I think i gotta agree with the wife

For my Ranger a buddy had a 200$ cap cuz they made a lot of those trucks/ lot of those caps, the paint didn't match but truck & cap were dark colors so it didnt look bad

For my new Tacoma I gave leer a 1000$ deposit and the the paint code, a couple months later the cap shows up matching perfectly and I will probably do the same with the new Tundra

[toast2266]

X3 on wife is correct, it'll look dumb.

[Dantheman]

It's $200. Buy the fucking thing, if it does look dumber than you can handle you should easily be able to sell it for what you paid for it.

[skaredshtles]

It's $200. Buy the fucking thing, if it does look dumber than you can handle you should easily be able to sell it for what you paid for it.

[Buzzworthy]

Listen to your wife

[cat in january]

I did

[Buzzworthy]

Damn you wives. Can’t live with em, emmm they just so guuud.

[SoVT Joey]

Looking for some input from the grumble. I have an f250 super ab with a short bed. Looking to get a cap so I can put a canoe on top and keep gear out of the weather. I have found a maxfit fiberglass one which is maybe made by ARE for a real good price. By the supplied measurements it fits lengthwise and width wise on the bed. If I buy it, I will confirm the fit is good and the door works.

My question is, the cap measures 2” shorter than the cab. Wife says it was look stupid. Hard to overcome a strong opinion by the wife, but wanted to see what folks thought here. Pretty sure it won’t be a problem getting racks so the canoe clears the cab.

Cat what year is your truck. I know the 11-16 are different then the 17-24. I think the beds from 99 or 2000 all three way to 2010 are the same.

My cap doesn’t sit higher than my cab. Honestly probably an inch shorter.



That’s on my old truck and it fits the same on my new truck as well


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[TAFKALVS]

Bought an 2013 f250 diesel last year.

CP4 failed on a trip to Canada. New fuel system, yay me. $8k ca-ching with fuel system upgrades (DCR PUMP, FASS lift pump, all new injectors etc) so it never kabooms again.

Awesome, now the truck is bulletproof.

Except…

4 months later, Turbo said later asshole. Turbo warnings on the dash, no power, smoke… thought the 2013s were safe, but turns out really only the 2015+ trucks are safe from sudden turbo death. Upgrade with Warlock turbo kit, 2017+ Garret turbo, all the good shit. Throw another $1000 in there for an ez-lynk and custom tune since we’re now way outside a stock 2013 parameters… ran good…

Except…

Valve in head is sticking on Cylinder #1 probably due to excess carbon buildup due to turbo failure or something … now at shop for a third time and the head is coming off.

FML.

I’m in it at this point since a poorly running diesel truck isn’t worth much. And I’ve upgraded so much it’s “gonna be perfect” when it finally runs.

I bought a 2015 Tundra to daily drive, as I’ve realized that diesel trucks are as finicky as exotic cars. But damn the truck is pretty sweet when it’s running well…

/end blog

[AdironRider]

That tracks with pretty much every diesel ownership story I've ever heard.

I'm pretty sure 5.9 and 7.3 diesel reliability stories are exactly like old 1980's Toyota pickup longevity stories, where every one leaves out they cost twice as much as the competition (whether that be in maintenance or MSRP - the net result is the same).