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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    increasing kingpin ramp angle?

    Do you know of any way to increase the ramp angle of the kingpins?

    new boots (dalbello lupo IT) are feeling good on old skis (hoji and others) but on the new skis/bindings (kingpins on blizzard zero-G) it feels like I'm centered on the ski, but still back of my ideal balance point. Thikning adding a few mm to the heel, or lowering the toe will help this.

    anyone done this? can't find much on wildsnow or TGR.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    ut
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    You don't think that's just due to mount point? 4frnts are waaaay forward of Blizzard recommended usually.

  3. #3
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    maybe
    but I would rather not re-drill
    and I skied almost the same ski last year (early cochise release) at the same spot (-1) and liked it
    I'm on hoji as my other ski, but also mounted back of center, HATED the raven

    looking to add the demo track part of the kingpin to the heel


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    939
    Wondering if it is your mount point. Been skiing the kingpin on a pair of atomic automatic 117 since last year. They do ski flat though, which i like as it is the most solid feeling touring binding i have ever been on. Reminds me of skiing a pivot.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    and I skied almost the same ski last year (early cochise release) at the same spot (-1) and liked it
    But with what bindings?
    Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan S. View Post
    But with what bindings?
    last year with adrenalines, that had about 5mm more overall height.


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Amherst, Mass.
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    Okay, so measuring from bottom of boot sole rubber to top of ski topskin, what heel and toe values do you have for the frame binding and the Kingpin?
    Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    2,775
    i've got lots of race shim lifter things (technical term for you) if you need to lift 'em
    in 1mm to 4mm increments iirc
    what's orange and looks good on hippies?
    fire

    rails are for trains
    If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.

    www.theguideshut.ca

  9. #9
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    Oct 2003
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    Banff
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    Quote Originally Posted by waxman View Post
    i've got lots of race shim lifter things (technical term for you) if you need to lift 'em
    in 1mm to 4mm increments iirc
    thanks, I"ll let you know if I need some, will be in fernie this upcoming weekend

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan S. View Post
    Okay, so measuring from bottom of boot sole rubber to top of ski topskin, what heel and toe values do you have for the frame binding and the Kingpin?
    I'll check in the am, but the difference between toe and heel was about 5mm on the KP, and about 9mm on my salomons (that I like)


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Anybody tried decreasing Kingpin ramp angle? Not sure if needed, but I plan to use a pair of Kingpins for a one-ski travel quiver. Both a bit of inbound as well as winter touring. Skimo estimates delta at 9,5mm, with Ions (which have a bit to much delta) is 11. Beast 16 (which I like) are 6,x mm

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Anybody tried decreasing Kingpin ramp angle? Not sure if needed, but I plan to use a pair of Kingpins for a one-ski travel quiver. Both a bit of inbound as well as winter touring. Skimo estimates delta at 9,5mm, with Ions (which have a bit to much delta) is 11. Beast 16 (which I like) are 6,x mm
    Yep, I've done a few for customers. Just add toe shim of your thickness to give you the delta required & use suitably longer screws.

  12. #12
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    Yep, I've done a few for customers. Just add toe shim of your thickness to give you the delta required & use suitably longer screws.
    Ok.
    Any feedback on how it worked out?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    SW CO
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    5,600
    Skimo.co also sells B&D toe shims and associated screws for the Kingpin. What specifically are you concerned about? I would be highly surprised if shimming the toe didn't work the same as it does with any other tech binding, which (IME) is great if you want less ramp angle. The only downside is if you're also sensitive to overall stack height. If you are, then you have to decide whether you prefer less overall stack height or more ramp. Or move to an UL binding that has low ramp and low height but less durability.

    Personally, I would ski them first and then add a shim if necessary.
    Last edited by auvgeek; 06-03-2017 at 11:35 AM.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

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  14. #14
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    ramp angle is a personal thing, (like boot F lean, like ski flex, like amount of sidecut)

    its not a right/wrong, just an option

    I like 3mm more heel lift in mine. you might like a toe rise

    follow above instructions


  15. #15
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    Dec 2008
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    Ok, thanks.
    Not concerned about anything in particular, just bored :-)
    Will probably try without shims first as advised. 3,2mm shims if it feels weird

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    JAC
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    I have two setups both shimmed 1/4" at the toe. After shimming they ski exactly like my alpine setups which is what I was after. 1/4" polycarbonate or lexan works really well as a shim material. I'm a fan of forward lean but really dislike alot of ramp angle.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by wstdeep View Post
    I have two setups both shimmed 1/4" at the toe. After shimming they ski exactly like my alpine setups which is what I was after. 1/4" polycarbonate or lexan works really well as a shim material. I'm a fan of forward lean but really dislike alot of ramp angle.
    Nice. AT boots or alpine with tech inserts?

    Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    Oct 2003
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    Technica guide pros, so 4 buckle overlap with tech fittings.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Colorado Front Range
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    If given a choice, I'd use UHMWPE (think white, cutting board material). Go to a plastics fabricator and ask to rummage through the scrap bin.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    If given a choice, I'd use UHMWPE (think white, cutting board material). Go to a plastics fabricator and ask to rummage through the scrap bin.

    ... Thom
    Finally going to get this done.
    Why UHMWPE over polycarbonate?

    Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Dec 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Finally going to get this done.
    Why UHMWPE over polycarbonate?

    Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk
    It tends to be flexible in the cold. Let's hear what @1000-oaks has to say. He's real good with material selection.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Yukon
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    FWIW I have enjoyed my ZeroG 108s way more mounted +1.5

  23. #23
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    Dec 2006
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    I would use HDPE not UHMW or PC as it is less slippery. I have some PC shims I made for dyanfit toes and the bindings will slide around unless you really reef down on the screws. I am planning to remake with HDPE and tighter screw holes.

    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Finally going to get this done.
    Why UHMWPE over polycarbonate?

    Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk

  24. #24
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    I would use HDPE not UHMW or PC as it is less slippery. I have some PC shims I made for dyanfit toes and the bindings will slide around unless you really reef down on the screws. I am planning to remake with HDPE and tighter screw holes.
    Ooops, just bought some polycarbonate. Oh, well. Maybe rub it with some sandpaper.

  25. #25
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    I've shimmed dozens of tech toes with HDPE over 10+ years, never had a failure nor any problems. HDPE is tougher than shit, stays flexible at very low temps. Polycarbonate is much more brittle.

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