New Home - HVAC and Roof Qoutes/Help

**gretch6364** · 10-26-2015, 12:23 PM

Long story short, we are under contract on a new house in the Denver area. After inspection, it needs a new roof, furnace and hot water heater. We are in a bit of a rush to get quotes/a general idea on costs so that the seller can give the necessary concessions, etc. Right now they are working with their insurance company on the roof because it is hail damage. They are bringing in someone to qoute the roof and furnace replacement that their agent suggested they use.

We obviously need to get our own quotes done, but is there a maggot that could help give us a general idea on reasonable numbers coming back from them while we wait until we engage someone to go do the quotes for us? If you message me, I can provide a link to the MLS to help with the roof quote. Obviously, accuracy would not be good, but a general idea would be very helpful.

On the furnace side of things, assume no additional duct work, just replacing the current 110K BTU gas furnace in the basement and maybe increasing the size of the "combustion air vents."

Thank you for any help.

**adrenalated** · 10-26-2015, 12:26 PM

PM Danno, he is the local construction expert maggot.

**gretch6364** · 10-26-2015, 12:40 PM

Originally Posted by adrenalated

PM Danno, he is the local construction expert maggot.

Haha....

**mcsquared** · 10-26-2015, 12:41 PM

Call any of the 24 hour/Tom Martino/Dave Logan/BBB A+ HVAC shops like Applewood. They charge up the ass and that is what you want right? A high number to negotiate from? Then hire somebody cheaper later.

**Danno** · 10-26-2015, 12:43 PM

Originally Posted by adrenalated

PM Danno, he is the local construction expert maggot.

It's true. I expect that work will run you at least 1 million dollars.

A basic furnace for a 1400 sqft house cost me ~$2300 some 8 years ago.

**Cruiser** · 10-26-2015, 12:53 PM

We just put a 98% efficient furnace and tankless hot water heater into our house in Littleton. Cost for the pair with install was in the neighborhood of 6k. IIRC it was like $3500 for the furnace and $2500 for the water heater. And before anyone gets all up on their horse about the math of tankless water heaters, I couldn't care less about it paying for itself. I was mostly concerned about never running out of hot water again since there are 6 of us showering in the morning.

One piece of advice, if you care, is to have the seller complete the repairs/replacements instead of knocking money off the house. The costs of moving and furnishing a new place are so high that you'll wish you didn't have to come up with cash out of your pocket for the fixes even though the PO took some $$$ off the purchase price.

**gretch6364** · 10-26-2015, 12:57 PM

Originally Posted by Cruiser

We just put a 98% efficient furnace and tankless hot water heater into our house in Littleton. Cost for the pair with install was in the neighborhood of 6k. IIRC it was like $3500 for the furnace and $2500 for the water heater. And before anyone gets all up on their horse about the math of tankless water heaters, I couldn't care less about it paying for itself. I was mostly concerned about never running out of hot water again since there are 6 of us showering in the morning.

One piece of advice, if you care, is to have the seller complete the repairs/replacements instead of knocking money off the house. The costs of moving and furnishing a new place are so high that you'll wish you didn't have to come up with cash out of your pocket for the fixes even though the PO took some $$$ off the purchase price.

Thank you for the info Cruiser. Would like to do a 90+% furnace. House is 1,920 sqft brick with older windows. I think the 110K rating is about right for the size of the house.

At this point, I don't think we can knock the price off the house. It would be more along the lines of them paying for the roof replacement and then giving us the cash back at closing for covering closing cost and prepaids that we would pay our preferred person...it is a double edged sword. We don't want them hiring the cheapest person they can find and installing the cheapes shit they can get away with either.

**Danno** · 10-26-2015, 01:07 PM

Yeah, having to do the work yourself (getting quotes, etc) sucks but you're better off doing it that way. Just have to structure the transaction to get the money in cash at closing.

**Cruiser** · 10-26-2015, 01:19 PM

You're welcome! If memory serves, the 90% efficient unit would have saved us a few hundred bucks because the unit itself was less expensive and because it would have utilized the existing flu instead of being vented out the side of the house through the joists. But our place is ~4500sqft so it's probably not a great comparison. Still, it's a data point that you can keep in mind.

Yeah, cash towards closing is always nice. But like you said, it's a double edged sword. I'd still have my agent lobby for having the seller do all the work prior to closing using a contractor and equipment that you both agree upon. The agents inevitably want fewer road blocks so they seem always suggest cash (since it's so easy) instead of having the repairs completed prior to the closing. I dunno your situation, maybe you've got a few extra $$$ that you can put into a furnace and water heater but in my experience there's never enough budget available for home repairs and renovations so having fewer items that need to be fixed is a real help.

edit: John at Paradise Heating and Cooling was great to work with if you end up needing a local referral for an HVAC guy. http://paradiseheatingandcooling.com/

**::: :::** · 10-26-2015, 01:23 PM

you don't mention how much roof square footage you have (or house footprint)

**skifishbum** · 10-26-2015, 01:35 PM

give me the roof square footage # of existing and type layers pitch of roof and an idea of ease of access for removal and loading i'd be able to ball park ya

**gretch6364** · 10-26-2015, 01:43 PM

Originally Posted by acinpdx

you don't mention how much roof square footage you have (or house footprint)

Sorry....footprint is 960 sqft....I unfortunately don't know the pitch of the roof. It is a bungalow in this style that you see all over south Denver:

Single roof line, plus small front porch and one dormer.

Access is very good. Its a corner lot with back yard and front yard....currently there are two layers of shingles on the house...and we do need some additional vents to cool the attic and a cricket for the fire place.

Pics of actual roof from inspection report. There is no dormer on the other side:

**assman** · 10-26-2015, 01:48 PM

I just had a roof put on a rental property I own. Size is 19 squares & cost was $4600. I could have gone as low as $3800. but I went with a known company. This is on the east coast.

edit to add that I choose to leave the single layer of existing shingles intact, saving probably 50% on the cost.

**Rodneyyee** · 10-26-2015, 01:53 PM

1 square=100 sq ft-$500 a sq. is going rate for comp/underlayment/all metal and hauling. I also know some people will lay comp over comp ( up to 3 times? ) kinda sketch to my thinking because you wouldn't be replacing metal and underlayment.
You have like 5-6 and 12 with some flat areas and valleys -not sure if they do torch down out there ?

ETA ^^^^ The above sounds correct doing the option of not full removal. ( would not do )

**gretch6364** · 10-26-2015, 01:56 PM

I 100% agree. The inspection report specifies that there is blistering from the attic not being properly ventilated and the two layers of roof, which should give us some leverage on having it fully torn off rather then a third layer...which I would not want.

**::: :::** · 10-26-2015, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by gretch6364

I 100% agree. The inspection report specifies that there is blistering from the attic not being properly ventilated and the two layers of roof, which should give us some leverage on having it fully torn off rather then a third layer...which I would not want.

If removing all layers & there is skip sheathing below, you'll want plywood added
(skip sheathing is 1x boards with gaps in between)

re: no third layer: you can argue that the roof rafters will be overloaded and shorten the life of the roof when it starts sagging

**gretch6364** · 10-26-2015, 02:04 PM

Originally Posted by acinpdx

If removing all layers & there is skip sheathing below, you'll want plywood added
(skip sheathing is 1x boards with gaps in between)

re: no third layer: you can argue that the roof rafters will be overloaded and shorten the life of the roof when it starts sagging

How much would that add to the cost and is it necessary if there are no gaps in the 1X? This is the attic. I took the picture because I was curious about that broken 1x.

**wannabe** · 10-26-2015, 02:21 PM

If you want quick and expensive hvac call the guys at ARS they installed my furnace and hot water heater same day they came out.

80% 2 stage 110k I think and 60 gallon water heater, I think it was $6k but it might have been more.

Wish I used 1st call heating these guys do good work at a reasonable price.

Roof might be around $7k as my roof was a bit bigger with more bullshit levels and corners and it was just shy of $10k. I would not recommend the roofer I used Infinity Roofing.

Good luck

**warthog** · 10-26-2015, 02:30 PM

PM Foggy. He can get you an estimate I believe.

Recommendations on who NOT to use are always the most valuable ones.

**::: :::** · 10-26-2015, 02:35 PM

Originally Posted by gretch6364

How much would that add to the cost and is it necessary if there are no gaps in the 1X? This is the attic. I took the picture because I was curious about that broken 1x.

as long as it's in good shape, it's really just to take a nail from the roofers who will be shooting all over the place

(plywood also adds seismic strengthening, but largely it's added to create a solid surface for the roofers to go to town)

and buy yourself a magnet to pick up all the extra nails that will be lying around for weeks & years after they're done

**stfu&gbtw** · 10-26-2015, 02:38 PM

You should skip Colorado Elite Roofing and Solar.

**skiballs** · 10-26-2015, 06:50 PM

OP, you'll want to deal with a roofer that can meet the loan underwriters terms , in regards to completion. Some underwriters are OK with a signed contract. The payment for the roofer will be made out at the settlement table. Unless the seller has the roof done and payed for before settlement.

I would sheet over the existing deck with 3/8 CDX and make sure the shingles are installed with 1 3/4" roofing nails, standard 1 1/4" with not penetrate the existing deck far enough. The shorter nails will back out of the old sheathing.
I don't know some of the venting guidelines for CO, but I can't imagine humidity be a big issue. I'd cut ridge vent in to let any interior generated humidity vent, to avoid winter condensation.

Cost should be $5-6 sq ft. Including the new decking.
This is a busy time of year for roofers.
So expect to pay a premium.

I do 1-2 roofs a month that are similar seller/ buyer transactions.
Getting the paper work right for the underwriter is important.
Good luck. I'm in MD so I this is all the help I got for ya.

**skifishbum** · 10-26-2015, 10:33 PM

roof looks fine from my house slap some goobs behind the chimneys cut the ridge n ridge vent it if ya feel it needs it
and call me in the spring
how far is the nearest mary janes dispensary?
how far to fishable water?
and do large slobery dogs bother you?
oh and all the good roofers have chinese eyes bad teethers and some kindsa ink

**RShea** · 10-26-2015, 10:54 PM

Not in Colorado or your area, but just finished a 100K BTU 95% efficiency dual stage natural gas furnace project (thread on TGR when it started looking like replacement was necessary). It was $3100 including installation time and materials required by the contractor. They had to do some duct work modifications to fit the air return reduction, and the new high efficiency required the work to do the intake and exhaust out the back of the house and no longer through the chimney. Go to furnacecompare.com and start your research. Sizing based on house size and climate zone, and then of course the installation issues based on existing unit and modifications needed for the new unit.