School me on Ford Diesel Engines 6.0 vs 6.4 vs 7.3

[Kopi_Red]

Get this spark plug shit out of the compression ignition thread.

A guy goes and buys his first diesel then he suddenly becomes a purest and now he can't even appreciate a little tread drift... Sheesh...

[digitaldeath]

My runner has remote start, subs, custom exhaust, sick tires

Kitted out

Just need a Calvin pissing on Calvin sticker

[Norseman]

That first deep huff of soot went straight to the core! Blackening his soul with tiny bits of particulate pride and making his ears ring non-stop with turbo whistle.

[TAFKALVS]

That first deep huff of soot went straight to the core! Blackening his soul with tiny bits of particulate pride and making his ears ring non-stop with turbo whistle.

I'd rather be cummin' or stroken'. Only homos are into plugs. 'Merica.

[jackattack]

Attachment 209765

Finally logged in here at work. Here's Otis in all of his 20 year old, stock glory. He's at my mechanic's today, getting his exhaust put on and pyrometer tapped.

She's a beaut, Clarke.

[Kopi_Red]

That first deep huff of soot went straight to the core! Blackening his soul with tiny bits of particulate pride and making his ears ring non-stop with turbo whistle.

Ha!

I'd rather be cummin' or stroken'. Only homos are into plugs. 'Merica.

Classic.

[The Reverend Floater]

Welp, some interesting data:

On Thursday, I did a 170 mile round trip in Otis, empty. At that point, only mod was Tymar air filter. Did the fill-odometer-fill and showed 17.6mpg. Verified mileage with gps.

Today, I did the exact same route with a jon boat behind him for 15 of those miles and about 500lbs of cargo in the bed for a different 75 miles on that trip. Only difference now is addition of Diamond Eye 4" exhaust from turbo back. Same drill at the same station, showed 19.5mpg.

Airflow rules all.

Will be installing the chip this week.

[NoPostholio]

I would start by finding B2 fuel because higher fuel lubricity makes fuel pumps last longer, all else being equal. Then Motorcraft Diesel Additive or Howes for de-watering, antigel, and to fight fuel system rust and algae.



...One of the 6.4L’s biggest problems lies in its water separator, and water contaminating the fuel system. According to the Diesel Technician Society, fuel coagulation often occurs in the collection bowl. The reaction between water and fuel forms a white, greasy substance, and the buildup eventually blocks the drain valve ports. This keeps water from being removed from the system when you attempt to drain it. And because the buildup shrinks water collection capacity, water eventually passes on to the fuel system. After that, water reacts with the metal in the injection system components to form rust. Rust is behind a lot of injection pump, injector, and even some complete engine failures in ’08 to ’10 Super Duty trucks.

You can stay on top of this by regularly opening the water separator valve (along the framerail) and allowing it to drain (do this once a month). You can also periodically remove the water separator’s manifold cover (arrow) and manually clean out the buildup by hand (brake cleaner is safe to use). Also, make sure you keep up with Ford’s recommended 20,000-mile fuel filter change interval.

...

| As previously mentioned, keeping rust out of the 6.4L’s fuel system is a big deal. To keep the Siemens K16 high-pressure fuel pump in tiptop shape and the rest of your fuel system happy, run a fuel additive that guards against the formation of corrosion and rust. We would choose a reputable, alcohol-free additive that helps remove water from fuel, and use it at every fill up. |.


http://www.trucktrend.com/cool-truck...6-4l-problems/



http://en.citizendium.org/wiki/Hydrocracking
http://www.shell.com/business-custom...ocracking.html

I appreciate getting schooled in this thread as I am here to learn from a large knowledge base. A bunch of you have hauled heavy TC's around the mtns for a long time, me not so much.
This truck is also a SRW f350, but the guy did all possible to mitigate carrying issues with, air bags - added springs with timbren bumps on leafs - front and rear sway bars - rancho air ride shock system with remote adjust. And most importantly H rated tires (16ply) that are rated at 5500# each. Previous owner had it for 10 years with same truck and he seemed to enjoy driving it set up as such. He even pulled a nautique behind it with truss bar.
Talked to him about brakes and his thoughts and he didn't seem to need anything other than the stock equipment. I drive this thing like a retiree, so maybe I am overthinking things.

Thanks for all the info.

I drove the truck alone yesterday on a 250 mile round trip - WOW does that thing roll nice on the highway. 70mph at 2k rpm - truck was well taken care of.

Somebody in PNW could end up with nice 7.3 if I decide to get a dually flatbed in the 450 or 550 family to carry this camper safe(r)

[TAFKALVS]

Somebody in PNW could end up with nice 7.3 if I decide to get a dually flatbed in the 450 or 550 family to carry this camper safe(r)

It'd be cool if you kept in the maggot family.

[digitaldeath]

Ya some maggot can use it to tow horses and shit from one bumfuck location to the other

[NoPostholio]

It'd be cool if you kept in the maggot family.

word

[highangle]

I appreciate getting schooled in this thread as I am here to learn from a large knowledge base. A bunch of you have hauled heavy TC's around the mtns for a long time, me not so much.
This truck is also a SRW f350, but the guy did all possible to mitigate carrying issues with, air bags - added springs with timbren bumps on leafs - front and rear sway bars - rancho air ride shock system with remote adjust. And most importantly H rated tires (16ply) that are rated at 5500# each. Previous owner had it for 10 years with same truck and he seemed to enjoy driving it set up as such. He even pulled a nautique behind it with truss bar.
Talked to him about brakes and his thoughts and he didn't seem to need anything other than the stock equipment. I drive this thing like a retiree, so maybe I am overthinking things.

Thanks for all the info.

I drove the truck alone yesterday on a 250 mile round trip - WOW does that thing roll nice on the highway. 70mph at 2k rpm - truck was well taken care of.

You're also getting 12+mpg, which is better than a big block sparker that strong with nothing in the bed and the A/C turned off...

Somebody in PNW could end up with nice 7.3 if I decide to get a dually flatbed in the 450 or 550 family to carry this camper safe(r)

A medium-duty truck like an F450 will have something like 4.88-5.10 gears. You can mount 100lb 20ply tires on it on 20" rims and raise your effective gear ratio on the highway, but those rear ends will have a powerplant spending a lot of time above 2500rpm (your current torque peak is at 1600 and your optimum mileage is about 1800), and have you thinking about a Splitter.


That's a fine rig. You got plenty of truck for that camper. Wind will take a big bite, but you have the same frontal sail area as a 5th wheel, and almost as much on the sides.
I'd sell the camper and get a 5th wheel twice as long before I traded trucks in this day and age...And olskool toy hauler used to be a camper up front, with room for ATVs and gold dredge on what's left of the gooseneck hay trailer...

[highangle]

I appreciate getting schooled in this thread as I am here to learn from a large knowledge base. A bunch of you have hauled heavy TC's around the mtns for a long time, me not so much.

A camper has weight and a lot of sail area, but no benefit of trailer brakes. A camper rig's center of gravity is also raised.
However, the weight is over the drive axle, and brings your rear brakes online as the truck squats, instead of 70-90% of your unloaded braking being handled by the front wheels (the normal state of affairs), you get more help from a Superduty's rear disc brakes.

No one who hasn't felt your brakes can really say, but if they're functioning properly and have plenty of pad & rotor, they should be adequate for a loaded camper...
If you find yourself having to brake too hard (and throw all your mustard and jelly around back there), 99% of the time it's because you were going too fast or didn't give yourself enough cushion...



"Hello Car Talk Guys! I have a 1989 Jetta that has gone through 5 sets of brakes since I bought it 6 years ago. Let me start by saying it has nothing to do with the way I drive..."
"Stop right there! We're going to let you finish this, but the first thing you need to know is that this has everything EVERYTHING to do with the way you drive. NO ONE who is not a Jettadriver goes through 5 sets of brakes in 6 years. No one."
"But but.."
"No buts. It's you not the car."
"How do you know that?"
"Hahahaha!"
"Why are you laughing at me?"
"Because not only do you confirm every Jettadriver stereotype there ever was...you've gone through 5 sets of brakes in 6 years and still think it's a problem with the car! Hahahaha!"
"But but.."...[hilarity]...[hilarity]

[The Reverend Floater]

Took the restrictor plate off the Red Dragon today (added chip). Huge difference, even on mild settings. Stoked.

[digitaldeath]

What can I add to my truck to de-hick it?

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using TGR Forums mobile app

[BmillsSkier]

What can I add to my truck to de-hick it?

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using TGR Forums mobile app

Remove the driver?

[digitaldeath]

You live in the sticks and I cucked you

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using TGR Forums mobile app

[TAFKALVS]

Took the restrictor plate off the Red Dragon today (added chip). Huge difference, even on mild settings. Stoked.

Burnout?

[highangle]

Took the restrictor plate off the Red Dragon today (added chip). Huge difference, even on mild settings. Stoked.

"The Durango-95 purred away real horrorshow, a nice, warm vibraty feeling all through your guttiwuts. Soon it was trees and dark, my brothers, with real country dark. We fillied around for a while with other travelers of the night, playing hogs of the road. Then we headed west, what we were after now was the old surprise visit, that was a real kick and good for laughs and lashing of the ultra-violent."




Hook a nice heavy trailer to it. That's when it gets all roary-sounding and big blocky in the cab. Grrrr!

[The Reverend Floater]

Motor mods complete:. Got the CTS2 working this evening to monitor all the important stuff.

Questions:

1. Where would you set your alerts for EGT, ECT, TFT and EOT for towing a 8k trailer in the mountains?
2. Any reason not to use the 50hp setting on the tuner as a DD setting? Stock setting is still better than pre tuned stock because it still firms up the transmission. That little tuner seems to have transformed that E4OD, driving wise.
3. Transmission mods:. Talked to my mechanic who confirmed that the spring kits definitely help those transmissions, along with a new, oversized pan--especially on a plow truck. He said it's about four hours labor, which isn't terrible. He also said main thing after that is to utilize OD Off and take it easy on hills when towing, as there is no substitute for treating those boxes with care, per High Angles post. He's seen these haulers have stock trannies that go 250k if babied and respected. Would you add an aftermarket cooler as well? Any mods will be down the road no matter what.

I also gave Otis an oil change to Rotatella. I know it's not Mobile 1 but I didn't feel like spending $100 on oil.

Next up: Suspension. Found some three leaf front springs on the nets that I'll order up in the next month, along with shocks, bushings and hardware. Suspension and tires must be done before October.

[highangle]

Motor mods complete:. Got the CTS2 working this evening to monitor all the important stuff.

Questions:

1. Where would you set your alerts for EGT, ECT, TFT and EOT for towing a 8k trailer in the mountains?

Where is the pyro probe? In downpipe=1000, 1200 in the manifold
Coolant=212-220
Trans fluid=190-200
Oil=200-220

2. Any reason not to use the 50hp setting on the tuner as a DD setting? Stock setting is still better than pre tuned stock because it still firms up the transmission. That little tuner seems to have transformed that E4OD, driving wise.

No good reason not to.

3. Transmission mods:. Talked to my mechanic who confirmed that the spring kits definitely help those transmissions, along with a new, oversized pan--especially on a plow truck. He said it's about four hours labor, which isn't terrible. He also said main thing after that is to utilize OD Off and take it easy on hills when towing, as there is no substitute for treating those boxes with care, per High Angles post. He's seen these haulers have stock trannies that go 250k if babied and respected. Would you add an aftermarket cooler as well? Any mods will be down the road no matter what.

Get a stacked plate cooler and a bypass filter header for a spin-on. Bigger pans that hold more fluid are nice, but it also takes longer to cool more fluid. But with a drain plug, extra volume, and bypass filter, you can change a higher percentage of the tranny fluid when you service it in your driveway.

I also gave Otis an oil change to Rotatella. I know it's not Mobile 1 but I didn't feel like spending $100 on oil.

With oil analysis, you can go over 10,000 miles on T6 or M1 5w40, and it will make cold starts much easier (Ford specs 10w30 diesel oil for operation below 20 degrees F).

Next up: Suspension. Found some three leaf front springs on the nets that I'll order up in the next month, along with shocks, bushings and hardware. Suspension and tires must be done before October.

If you have air or a good 3/8 impact drill, you can do the bushings and tie rod ends yourself (shocks are easy). Just take pics of the original parts in place before you swap (esp the number of exposed threads on the tie rods). You may need a press or vice, but I once jacked up the back of the truck and used the 2 5/8 hitch stinger and the weight of the truck against a block of cribbing to mash some polyurethane in its holders.
Dirty job, but real straightforward with big tools. I have a set of mechanic's coveralls, and I like nitrile and sometimes deerskin gloves to help protect my million-dollar mitts and keep my fingernails dainty.

[The Reverend Floater]

Took Otis over the pass to cut wood and retrieve the trailer.

Ended up towing the camper with a bed full of firewood rounds over the pass in about 90 degree heat.... First time with complete chip/exhaust setup. Definitely got some looks from other drivers.

Net result, the transmission seemed to be searching for the first half mile or so once I got the steeps, pissing me off as usual. But then it seemed to find it's footing somewhat randomly, remaining in 3rd and managing 35 to 40mph. EGTs were between 1000 and 1250--causing me to let off a bit at the high end. Funny thing--without the gauge, I never would have known, as it seemed to want more throttle.

Tranny was my main concern but it never crossed 170f, with oil topping at 210. Coolant never passed 210, either, mainly hovering around 200 our 205.

[carpathian]

In cold weather ill let truck idle 5-10 minutes then ill usually slowly idle 1 block over to Tesoro for coffee etc and let truck run in parking lot before pulling into highway or up valley. Even though engine is getting warmed up the transmission is not.

Have found that first shift up can be delayed for a few minutes at highway speed. Basically the rpm will be pushing up to 2200 ish at 60mph. Eventually it will make the last shift to 2000 rpm at 70 +\-

Anything to do to mitigate this ,High Angle?

Second question , is it normal for auto trans to have a '2 step ' shift between gears? Sometimes even when warm, it will shift 'halfway' before completing shift.

Then in reference to the hill descend stuff, don't have many long steep passes around here but when I drove down from Flattop I expected to sit on the low gear, having shifted down to 1 on column. Instead the rpms went up a bit then the motor shifted to a 'sputtery' sound and it felt like the engine was not breaking me at all , had to to ride brakes more then wanted.

[carpathian]

[highangle]

In cold weather ill let truck idle 5-10 minutes then ill usually slowly idle 1 block over to Tesoro for coffee etc and let truck run in parking lot before pulling into highway or up valley. Even though engine is getting warmed up the transmission is not.

Have found that first shift up can be delayed for a few minutes at highway speed. Basically the rpm will be pushing up to 2200 ish at 60mph. Eventually it will make the last shift to 2000 rpm at 70 +\-

Anything to do to mitigate this ,High Angle?

That is normal operation, just fine. The truck is running rich and delaying its shifts to warm itself up based on its Engine Coolant Temp and Engine Oil Temp sensor inputs.
Read back to Sven talking about how long it takes for the engine oil to warm up...

Second question , is it normal for auto trans to have a '2 step ' shift between gears? Sometimes even when warm, it will shift 'halfway' before completing shift.

That's your torque converter "stalling" (locking up). The TC will slip, like double clutching a manual, until rpm reaches "stall speed", then it locks up. This is also normal operation and varies by throttle position and other inputs.
I don't know stock Superduty stall speed, but it's about 22-2300rpm on my E4OD. Custom and aftermarket torque converters have higher or lower stall speeds, mostly higher to facilitate harder stall (lockup) via higher transmission fluid pressures.

Then in reference to the hill descend stuff, don't have many long steep passes around here but when I drove down from Flattop I expected to sit on the low gear, having shifted down to 1 on column. Instead the rpms went up a bit then the motor shifted to a 'sputtery' sound and it felt like the engine was not breaking me at all , had to to ride brakes more then wanted.

Need to push the OD OFF button too. This will tell the truck to lock up the driveline. Your truck may have been stone cold too, with the EBPV on to build heat, except it can't build much heat engine braking because there's no fuel being shot into the cylinders during engine braking, and compression is low on an unloaded truck without fuel to help it spin its wheel to make boost.

I take the 25mph hill coming down from Flattop in 2nd, which doesn't really hold the truck under the speed limit, but 1st would have it spinning over 3krpm, and I'd have to give it gas to get over walking speed.

Long grades: Very few 5th wheel RVs will push you down 5 miles of 6% Turnagain, but a loaded gooseneck car hauler or 6-horse will, because it's got a lot more weight and a lot less wind resistance.

Getting pushed by your load is more of a manual transmission thing, but it's something everyone should be aware of before they haul heavy shit down big hills.