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Thread: FORCE Full Film

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    The Wilds of Maine
    Posts
    2,692

    FORCE Full Film

    Patagonia just dropped this full film, "Mikey Schaefer and Force," about 10 years of climbing in Patagonia. Thought you rock mags would enjoy it:

    "We're in the eye of a shiticane here Julian, and Ricky's a low shit system!" - Jim Lahey, RIP

    Former Managing Editor @ TGR, forever mag.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    1

    Wood vs. Plastic for max hangs on small-ish holds

    In the fall I was following a more-or-less self designed max hang routine with added weight on an 18mm wood edge. I got to a point around 60% of bodyweight where I felt my shoulders were my limiting factor rather than my fingers. Yes, I know I have weak shoulders and am addressing that separately.
    Because of this, I'm trying now to hang on a much smaller edge with less added weight. Additionally, most of my upcoming goal routes feature small holds on not-too-steep of rock, so I feel this change is appropriate. I just started doing max hangs with added weight (about 25%) on the Beastmaker 10mm micro. But I am finding that with an edge this size there are drastically different results between this smooth wood edge and the grippy 10mm plastic edge on the Transgression hangboard. I can hang nearly twice as long on the transgression board with similar weight added. Or, I can add more weight.
    I go back and forth about which one is more effective. Neither one feels particularly unsafe or tweaky with my current routine, just providing different experiences. Curious if anyone has had a similar conundrum, and which material edge you chose to train on, and why. For reference, I have about 10 years climbing history and have redpointed up to 8b+, with upcoming goals in a similar grade range.

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