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  1. #26
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    May 2008
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  2. #27
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    Nov 2005
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    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    How much izzat in US $?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  3. #28
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    Pick the currency up top

  4. #29
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    Fuck. That's cheap!
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  5. #30
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    Their prices are insane. They sell full x01 groups for $640. Schwalbe tires for $35.

    They've always been cheap, but the strong dollar is making it even better.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Boise, ID
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    967
    hibike, merlin, alltricks are all cheap eur shops, crc usually is a little bit more but I've heard good things about customer service on mtbr

    I have no idea though regarding warranty issues, sending a fork back to germany would be a pain!

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    whistler
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    1,164
    Kidwoo,

    I'm curious about your DPA tokens. Is this something you found at a hardware store? What section/ what original intended purpose?

    I'm planning on throwing a DPA cartridge in my pike so my bike is less slack for the uphillz and moar tractions for the rear wheel. Also, Dirt Jumping is no fun with 160mm...

    That being said, tokens are awesome and not being able to shove a bunch of those in there is a bit of a deal breaker. What's the equivalence of your setup? One token? two? I'm assuming they can't thread to the top cap, so how do you hold them in place inside the workings? If it's only equivalent to one token, do you think it possible to double them up?

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    in your second home, doing heroin
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    It's really truly nothing special. It's literally a 95 cent rubber stopper bought from ACE hardware in the states (canadian tire equivalent probably).

    The air spring on those DPA systems is kind of brilliant in its simplicity. If I worked for Fox when that thing came out I'd consider it a service to humanity to just kill myself after defending the talas system. If you look at the DPA assembly it's basically a top cap, a concentric shaft connected to it, and then a piston. Like this



    The main air spring is the top chamber. It took me like 30 minutes of staring at the thing to even figure out how it worked. But what you need to do is find a spacer/rubber stopper that has an OD that fits inside the stanchion, and fits over that upper shaft. I just bought one that had a small hole and kept going at it with drill bits until it fit, although still snug. It needs to be pretty tight on that upper shaft because if it slides down you can screw with the way the exchange port works on the two position setup. It's pretty simple but make sure it's tight. The first one I did slid down a few times and the fork wouldn't come up after having it short travel mode.

    As far as performance goes, the DPA already ramps up more with less midstroke looseness than the solo air does. I think having that hardware in the main air spring vs. a big empty chamber for the solo air makes it feel closer to a solo air with one token. With that rubber spacer I have, It's probably somewhere around 1.5-2 tokens in solo air but not exactly. Even with two tokens in my solo air the fork still has too loose of a midrange, but then just ramps up like a bitch right at the end. It's not linear. I think the DPA isn't either but it's closer. With the way I have it setup now, on a more flowy trail I always come back with about an inch of travel unused. On a good fast trail with some rowdy bang bang, I get full travel, and the front end stays pretty composed.

    I'm hoping to rebuild my damper this week if some seals show up so I'll have it apart. I'll take some pics if/when that happens.

    Just keep in mind if you have a solo air and want to convert it, you need both the air spring assembly AND a crown/stanchion assembly. They really are different. The solo air uses a dimple in the stanchion to set the negative spring like a rear air shock does. If you stick a dual air assembly into a solo air stanchion, you just keep building up negative spring pressure every time you switch the travel until your fork won't extend to topout without absurd pressures. This I know from experience
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  9. #34
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    where the rough and fluff live
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    4,147
    muy bueno

    you used a drill on a rubber stopper and managed to keep the stopper fixed against twist?

  10. #35
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    Mar 2006
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    in your second home, doing heroin
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    Don't go shoving a one inch bit into a 2mm hole or anything. But yeah I just held the stopper in my hand.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  11. #36
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    May 2010
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    where the rough and fluff live
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    every native genius who never struggled with technique agrees, but the rest of humanity?

    I can see a lot of weirdness resulting from rubber-workpiece-meets-turning-drill-bit suggestions after seeing fellow humans in my shop classes in jr high, avoiding step-ups in diameter and going whole-hog-git-er-dun style, I would even like to see some video of it, hold my beer, etc.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    8,382
    Hey Woo or others, do you know if they ever sold the 26" dual position air as a 150/120? Or did it only come in 160/130?
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  13. #38
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    in your second home, doing heroin
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    I've never heard of or seen a version that's not 160/130.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  14. #39
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    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    ^ that's what I thought.

    Unless I'm dropping ledges or rolling through chunky stuff, my SB-66 actually feels more fun and with better front tire grip with my Pike in the 130 mm setting. I think it's like 65.5 degrees in 160mm and much steeper in 130mm, and I can really feel the difference. After several rides I'm pretty much now leaving the bike in 130mm unless I know there are some chunks or steep parts coming up.

    I was wondering if I should try to trade down or not, or just HTFU and learn how to ride a slacker bike on loose dirt - way more forward and weight way lower than I have to with a steeper head angle.

    Based on what I've read, shortening the DPA Pike down to 150mm means taking the thing apart and having it cut down, correct? Not sure that's something I want to do unless it will make the bike more fun.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  15. #40
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    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    Hmmm, I caught up on MTBR (http://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/re...l#post11011392) and it looks like I might be able to call SRAM to see if they have a shorter air shaft in stock, then see if Wrench Science is willing to do the swap and service:
    http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/san...hread-pike.jpg

    Giving up 10mm of big hit range for better overall trail traction and steeper climbing angles might be worth it for how I ride, might be just the ticket when combo'd with your rubber spacer trick too!
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  16. #41
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    Sep 2005
    Location
    Stowe
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    4,434
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    I've never heard of or seen a version that's not 160/130.
    My 2015 Trance came with a 160/140 RC....need to get a RCT3 dampen in there,...

    FYI you can now get DPA bottomless token though suppliers as well.

    To anyone thinking about buying a DPA air, just realize the spring rates are different between the shorter and taller position. When its shorter the small bump is more supple, and it also will go thought its travel a ton easier with no ramp up, the bottomless tokens though changed that for me and have made the lower setting better for all around riding even going down over reasonable steeps, air and drops, although its long enough and harsh enough I just put it into 160mm anyways.

  17. #42
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    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Hmmm, I caught up on MTBR (http://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/re...l#post11011392) and it looks like I might be able to call SRAM to see if they have a shorter air shaft in stock, then see if Wrench Science is willing to do the swap and service:
    http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/san...hread-pike.jpg

    Giving up 10mm of big hit range for better overall trail traction and steeper climbing angles might be worth it for how I ride, might be just the ticket when combo'd with your rubber spacer trick too!
    I know you can do the air shaft swap on the Solo Air, but haven't seen any confirmation that it can be done on the DP. Several people ask in that thread, but I didn't see any definitive answers. Anybody know for sure?

    Bikeman.com carries the air shafts, BTW.

    Edit: Looking at that chart, it would seem that the 26" 150mm DP shaft would give me 140mm with 27.5. I don't wanna get stuck with a too-tall Pike DPA, though.
    Last edited by bagtagley; 08-24-2015 at 11:05 AM.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Eugenio Oregón
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    Quote Originally Posted by BushwackerinPA View Post
    My 2015 Trance came with a 160/140 RC....need to get a RCT3 dampen in there,...

    FYI you can now get DPA bottomless token though suppliers as well.

    To anyone thinking about buying a DPA air, just realize the spring rates are different between the shorter and taller position. When its shorter the small bump is more supple, and it also will go thought its travel a ton easier with no ramp up, the bottomless tokens though changed that for me and have made the lower setting better for all around riding even going down over reasonable steeps, air and drops, although its long enough and harsh enough I just put it into 160mm anyways.
    Interesting.

    1) does your token ramp up compression on only the short travel or both?
    2) woo, which travel does your homemade volume reducer affect?
    3) Bushwacker, pretty sure your short travel is 130. The DPA drops 30mm from the travel. My considered air shaft change should make it a 150/120.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  19. #44
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    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    8,382
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    I know you can do the air shaft swap on the Solo Air, but haven't seen any confirmation that it can be done on the DP. Several people ask in that thread, but I didn't see any definitive answers. Anybody know for sure?

    Bikeman.com carries the air shafts, BTW.

    Edit: Looking at that chart, it would seem that the 26" 150mm DP shaft would give me 140mm with 27.5. I don't wanna get stuck with a too-tall Pike DPA, though.
    Bike man confirms they can order the part I'm looking for. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work?

    Now I need to figure out if I want to spend parts and labor or give a few more rides to see how well I can adapt. That said, putting in tokens at the same time gives more motivation to do it, plus with the second shaft all changes will be fully reversible.

    I also feel that while 0.5 degrees change in HA from 65.5 to 66 doesn't seem like much on paper (when dropping travel 10mm), I think shifting the position of my hands by does make a substantial difference in how the front is weighted. Which also makes me believe I should pull the remaining 5mm in spacers I have between my stem and headset before changing the travel characteristics.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    in your second home, doing heroin
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    14,690
    I messed with my fork just to dial in the full travel mode. Like bush said, the short travel mode is whacked in terms of being a shorter travel version of the longer travel baseline. I don't ever RIDE mine in short travel mode ever. Just climbing. If it's flat or down, I've got it extended. Because that's how I've got my handlebars/seat angle and everything else setup to balance.

    Are you talking about switching your DPA piston for a fixed travel solo? You need a lot more than just the air shaft. You need the whole upper crown and stanchion assembly too.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  21. #46
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    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    No, just thinking about switching from 160/130 DPA to 150/120 DPA.

    I like DPA concept and I'm okay with the short travel not ramping up for big hits. But because I currently have more fun on low angle descending in short travel, I find myself spending much more time in short than long, which just seems like a really odd way of using this bike ...

    My secret hope is that the combined effects of losing the height of my 5mm stem spacers and shortening long travel to 150 will flip the amount of time I spend in short vs. long travel on the DPA. (Again, it's that, or change the way I ride)
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Stowe
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    4,434
    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Interesting.

    1) does your token ramp up compression on only the short travel or both?
    2) woo, which travel does your homemade volume reducer affect?
    3) Bushwacker, pretty sure your short travel is 130. The DPA drops 30mm from the travel. My considered air shaft change should make it a 150/120.
    its ramps up spring rate in both. Compression and spring rate are 2 differnet things. I am positive its 160 and 140 it came on this bike and my measurements come to 157mm and 138mm of travel.....

    http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/...specifications

    The fork was basically unridable on anything other than a climb in the lowered setting with out the 3 rock shock bottomless token in it. With the 3 bottomless token the spring ramp ups a ton now, and the 140 mode is different than the 160 but its good. On rolling trails and not gnarly DH I keep it in 140 and its fine, its actually really good.

    I have my stuff set up towards 140.... but when I am in 160 I like the higher handle bars anyways and I never sitting on my seat.

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