Tecnica Mach 1 130 2015/2016

[skier666]

To be in honest, I can't say I noticed any difference in snow feel from the Demon 130....skied pretty similar although a bit lighter and more refined. But then again, I'm not a boot tester doing run by run comparisons.

[salx]

Difference between Mach 1 130 Lv and Mach 1 R 130 Lv

Anybody know the difference?
They look pretty much the Same. Only difference I could find out online is easy instep on the orange version.
Different sole blocks ?

Black looks good, too

[XavierD]

The new soles are still replaceable, but have better energy transfer to the binding and can now be canted using cantology plates.

The 130 R appears to be black and not readily distributed in the U.S. Looks good though.

[wasatchback]

130 LV R is just a 130 LV in black plastic. It's For the euro market (and maybe Canada can't remember).

Now that the Cochise and Mach boots don't share a lower mold there is no reason for the Mach boots to have a replaceable sole like that. New one can be canted much easier and allows for a greater degree of canting than the soles found on the old Cochise/Mach. It has as much grippy rubber and won't cost you $40 for a new set.

The whole "energy transfer" thing is debatable. It would take really hard snow and you skiing one model on one foot and one on the other to maybe feel any difference. When the Freedom came out Scarpa started telling accounts that it transferred energy much better than a Cochise because the top of the lug was part of the shell and that the Cochise was prone to slop and basically that their design was much superior. There was no info to back this up and frankly a thick lugged AT sole would transfer much less energy than any other sole regardless.

[otto parts]

Wasatch, can you give a bit more detail on the 14/15 vs 15/16 Mv shell?
Any difference in internal length to go with the bsl decrease?
Also look like toe box might be a bit more squared out?

[SupreChicken]

Pics? Or the black mach1 didn't happen. Anyone got a photo of those?

[wasatchback]

Go to the Euro website, or just google Mach1 R LV.

It's just the race boot graphics on the 130 LV.

Race shit sells in euroland, not in the US

[wasatchback]

Wasatch, can you give a bit more detail on the 14/15 vs 15/16 Mv shell?
Any difference in internal length to go with the bsl decrease?
Also look like toe box might be a bit more squared out?

Trying to remember when I had them both on my feet...

Internal length should feel similar (you would wear the same size in both boots). It is due to the fact that the toe box is a little more anatomical in the 15/16 boot.

Biggest difference in fit will be instep/front of the ankle/heal.

15/16 is tighter over the instep. Don't worry folks it's still a Tecnica which is notorious for accommodating a normal to higher instep/arch as opposed to Salomon which is much lower over the instep. However the 15/16 boot board is much easier to lower so you could get a similar instep fit as the 14/15 if you needed it.

Overall volume in the heal/ankle area is reduced and has more shape. It will be much tighter at the front of the ankle and really draw the heal into the heal pocket.

Cuff is higher and will provide much better rearward support.

15/16 130 LV and MV also have a new liner that has more micro cell material all over the liner for a tighter fit that will retain that tight initial fit for even longer. When you step down to the 120 it only has the micro cell in the heal/ankle area like last years boot and like the 15/16 Cochise.

I haven't weighed the two boots yet but I believe the 15/16 is considerably lighter than 14/15 model. Have to double check that later.

[salx]

Mach 1 130 LV vs. Mach 1 R 130 LV

ok i searched some more.

It seems to me that the
- black version has a non carbon rear spoiler (vs. carbon spoiler on the orange)
- and the orange version has quick instep vs no (?) quick instep with the black version (not sure on this one)
- on the web they sell the black (R) as Race whereas the orange version is piste/all mountain. d'oh.

all other things seem the same.
why am i trying so hard? can only find the black version in my size and LV and want the quick instep feature.
because i always have a damn hard time getting into my cochise pros. or isn´t it worth it?

see
http://www.tecnica.it/files/1035/_80..._CAS_SHELL.jpg
http://www.sciaremag.it/wp-content/u...ach_1_R_LV.jpg
http://www.tecnica.it/files/55/_800x...UICKINSTEP.jpg

[Brianskis]

Mach 1 130 LV vs. Mach 1 R 130 LV

ok i searched some more.

It seems to me that the
- black version has a non carbon rear spoiler (vs. carbon spoiler on the orange)
- and the orange version has quick instep vs no (?) quick instep with the black version (not sure on this one)
- on the web they sell the black (R) as Race whereas the orange version is piste/all mountain. d'oh.

all other things seem the same.
why am i trying so hard? can only find the black version in my size and LV and want the quick instep feature.
because i always have a damn hard time getting into my cochise pros. or isn´t it worth it?

see
http://www.tecnica.it/files/1035/_80..._CAS_SHELL.jpg
http://www.sciaremag.it/wp-content/u...ach_1_R_LV.jpg
http://www.tecnica.it/files/55/_800x...UICKINSTEP.jpg

What size are you looking for?

[Stewy30]

Mach 1 130 LV vs. Mach 1 R 130 LV

ok i searched some more.

It seems to me that the
- black version has a non carbon rear spoiler (vs. carbon spoiler on the orange)
- and the orange version has quick instep vs no (?) quick instep with the black version (not sure on this one)
- on the web they sell the black (R) as Race whereas the orange version is piste/all mountain. d'oh.

all other things seem the same.
why am i trying so hard? can only find the black version in my size and LV and want the quick instep feature.
because i always have a damn hard time getting into my cochise pros. or isn´t it worth it?

see
http://www.tecnica.it/files/1035/_80..._CAS_SHELL.jpg
http://www.sciaremag.it/wp-content/u...ach_1_R_LV.jpg
http://www.tecnica.it/files/55/_800x...UICKINSTEP.jpg

If you look at the catalog, the R 130 LV has a quick instep stamp on the right side of the page, the same as the 130 LV. Pretty sure they are identical boots.

[wasatchback]

Has quick instep. They're literally THE SAME BOOT! Just different graphics.

[Snowy Spartan]

If you look at the catalog, the R 130 LV has a quick instep stamp on the right side of the page, the same as the 130 LV. Pretty sure they are identical boots.

May come from the identical molds. But the black plastic will be warmer and a more progressive flex.

Same reason they switched from the Orange inferno series to the R series. Easier to regulate black plastic

[wasatchback]

May come from the identical molds. But the black plastic will be warmer and a more progressive flex.

Same reason they switched from the Orange inferno series to the R series. Easier to regulate black plastic

Warmer.... Doubtful

In the plastic formulation used for the race boots the black plastic was softer at really cold temps, (-0). Formulation is different for Mach boots. Black might be softer at really cold temps but it is not as drastic in the plastic used for the 98mm boots as the shells aren't nearly as thick.

[Snowy Spartan]

Warmer.... Doubtful

In the plastic formulation used for the race boots the black plastic was softer at really cold temps, (-0). Formulation is different for Mach boots. Black might be softer at really cold temps but it is not as drastic in the plastic used for the 98mm boots as the shells aren't nearly as thick.

Take your hand and put it on a black car and a white car. Black absorbs heat.

[Stewy30]

I think the bottom line is: If you can only find one or the other without extra effort, just get the one that you can access. If you can get both, get the one which increases your steeze level to over 9000.

[Eluder]

Question on fitting the my MV 130's. I have a very pronounced instep specifically the medial to intermediate cuneiform region. Shell fit is great on this boot and I have adequate room in that region. Even with the stock (shitty footbed) I can't even buckle the instep buckle without pain. Should I go after the elastic and the Cast foam on the tongue in that region or should I take the Boot board down some. Just wondering what your first step would be. I am thinking the the tongue first.

[otto parts]

Do you have the 14 or 15? 14 has a red shim you can remove, and it has a bit more arch room as noted in thread as well.

[Happy Fun Ball]

I've got the LV and just spent the last few days working on them. Had a similar fit issue with the instep. What worked for me was putting the liners on the heat stack for 15 minutes and bringing them up to 220 degrees. Buckled down and toes up on a 2x4 for 15 minutes. Helped get my heel settled into the pocket. Before it was formed I was getting pushed forward a bit and causing some pinching. Made the difference to me.

[Eluder]

Do you have the 14 or 15? 14 has a red shim you can remove, and it has a bit more arch room as noted in thread as well.

15/16 Hence the MV. My judgement is the liner is more substantial more than the shell being a that much smaller. There was a noticeable difference in the instep just between the 110 and the 130 which can only be attributed to the liner.

I've got the LV and just spent the last few days working on them. Had a similar fit issue with the instep. What worked for me was putting the liners on the heat stack for 15 minutes and bringing them up to 220 degrees. Buckled down and toes up on a 2x4 for 15 minutes. Helped get my heel settled into the pocket. Before it was formed I was getting pushed forward a bit and causing some pinching. Made the difference to me.

I was thinking this might be a good option but remembered reading (in the cochise thread I think) that if you could ski the CAS liners in you would be better off. I am not sure the validity of this mind you. I don't think I could ski them as is so all add this to the list.

Which should I try first.

1 - Mold the liner - maybe lose some performace here, maybe not enough room added.
2 - Grind the CAS part of the tongue or remove the elastic - Irreversible without buying a new liner.
3 - lower the boot board - irreversible but cheaper to replace than the liner.

[1000-oaks]

What worked for me was putting the liners on the heat stack for 15 minutes and bringing them up to 220 degrees. Buckled down and toes up on a 2x4 for 15 minutes. Helped get my heel settled into the pocket.

Was 15 minutes at 220 enough heat to lose the pre-formed CAS material around the ankle, or just enough to soften up the inside of the liner a little? I also need to get my heel deeper in the pocket to create some room for toes (2016 Cochise Pro), but don't want to lose the awesome heel hold down.

Think I heat-stacked (digital heat gun) my last pair of Intuitions at 275 for about 8 or 9 minutes. Tried 250 initially but it wasn't enough, or maybe I didn't heat them long enough.

[XavierD]

Take the liner down.
I don't put my boots on before I cut the elastic out.

I got a ton of room from grinding the cas material in the tounge

[Happy Fun Ball]

Which should I try first.

1 - Mold the liner - maybe lose some performace here, maybe not enough room added.
2 - Grind the Cast part of the tongue or remove the elastic - Irreversible without buying a new liner.
3 - lower the boot board - irreversible but cheaper to replace than the liner.

So we went about this kind of ass backwards on my boots, but it all worked out in the end (I think). I started with known areas that I needed a punch in. 6th toe and a little more room in the navicular area. All was good except the instep. I could barely get the second buckle closed and even when it was, it was painful as all hell. So we started at looking at options on gaining more room on the instep. I took the stock footbed out, which is really thin. Got a little room, but not enough. So the next options were either grinding/cutting the tongue, or lowering the boot board. But the one thing I did notice was that my ankle never felt real snug into the ankle pocket. I had some pinching around the achilles. After talking to a few other bootfitters we decided to mold the liners which essentially pulled my heel further back into the pocket and allowed my instep to be pulled back. There was no way my foot would be able to tolerate trying to break those heel pockets in just by skiing them.

So to answer your question, if I had to do it all over again I would follow your steps as listed above. Mold, grind, boot board. YMMV, but that's just how I would roll. I'm also kind of skeptical on the warmth of these liners compared to my previous Intuitions so I'm prepared to go that route should these liners not work out in terms of warmth.

[Happy Fun Ball]

Was 15 minutes at 220 enough heat to lose the pre-formed CAS material around the ankle, or just enough to soften up the inside of the liner a little? I also need to get my heel deeper in the pocket to create some room for toes (2016 Cochise Pro), but don't want to lose the awesome heel hold down.

Think I heat-stacked (digital heat gun) my last pair of Intuitions at 275 for about 8 or 9 minutes. Tried 250 initially but it wasn't enough, or maybe I didn't heat them long enough.

I'm not really sure what the heat stacks get up to. We used my local shops Garmont heat stacks. 15 minutes at their preset temp setting with a box over the liners got us up to 220 degrees internal temp. We used the digital heat gun to get an internal temp reading after 15 minutes. Maybe start at 250 and check them every five or ten minutes until they get up to temp.

[wasatchback]

Heat stacks won't mold the CAS material! You need to put them in an Intuition style oven for 8 minutes (can't remember the temp). Heat stacks literally just take the initial break in period out of the liner.

However I would punch the liner first before going with the full mold in an oven. Once you stick them in an oven all that pre molded shape goes away. By punching them you can change the shape in incremental amounts until you get it right. For those punching the liner I recommend heating the ball on the Scott press up instead of taking a heat gun to the liner. It doesn't take much heat.

Wow you must have a high instep! The 13O MV liner has the CAS microcell material over the instep to allow boot fitters to customize that area for people. Especially those with that more pronounced bump (can't emerge what it's called). 130 MV is the only liner that has that. So the 130 will fit tighter than say the 120MV especially over the top of the foot. You can grind that material down but sounds like grinding the boot board is the way to go. This is why the dimples are on the boot board. They act as a depth gauge so that when you do grind the boot board down it's
Easy to get an accurate reading of how
Far you've gone.

Intuitions will always be the warmest liners. They're thick squishy material and don't have as many seams. However if you ski firm snow a lot the CAS liner will ski a whole lot better. The firm material gives a better connection to the shell. Better energy transmission and feel for the snow. Less of that marshmallow feeling inside the boot. Keep the intuitions for cold pow
Skiing, CAS liners rest of the time.