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  1. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    So how are you able to decipher? All the literature for the past 2 seasons since the ‘orange’ 130C came out has stated it’s Grilamid...and to me, it feels like it has the ‘softer’ nature of Grilamid (in durability).
    I am going to amend my post....
    I was basing my original thoughts on some visual cues regarding wear and deformation, however, I am now questioning the assumption.
    I pulled the liners out of each and went looking for the tooling stamp on the lower clog and found what I believe to be a "PA" (Polyamide) reference on both.

  2. #702
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Calgary
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    1,615
    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    I am going to amend my post....
    I was basing my original thoughts on some visual cues regarding wear and deformation, however, I am now questioning the assumption.
    I pulled the liners out of each and went looking for the tooling stamp on the lower clog and found what I believe to be a "PA" (Polyamide) reference on both.
    Also, both the 130C and Factory shell weights are almost identical where as the PU Lupo Pro HD gains 100+ grams.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #703
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Interesting, I assume the PU will take a punch better - or is there not much difference?
    In general, Grilamid (there are many different formulas) punches great, you just can't abuse it with heat. There are also hundreds of different PU-Ether compounds, which generally punch well and are more heat resistant (less chance of making a mistake, or more similar to traditional PU boots bootfitters are already used to). Part of the challenge is that Grilamid shells in comparable stiffness are much thinner. In terms of holding a punch (absence of plastic memory) both are fine if done correctly.

  4. #704
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    Dec 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    ??? No

    The 'orange' 130C is a Grilamid shell, same as the Factory. I see the Dalbello website shows the current 2020 'dark green' version listing PU. That is either a website error or they actually changed this year's material to PU.

    I get that you work in a shop so it would be nice to get some real clarification on this.
    Was told by the rep this fall that the 130C shell was PU, not sure about the orange one, Factory and Air have always been Grilamid . . . no guarantee, of course, that either the rep or Dalbello website is correct.

  5. #705
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    In terms of durability of Grilamid, there is quite a range. My Atomic Hawx Ultra 130 XTD soles held up great through 45 days of skiing (much of it in alpine bindings) while my first generation Tecnica Zero G Guide Pros and Lange XT Freetour 130 soles were pretty trashed in the same period of time.

  6. #706
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    In terms of durability of Grilamid, there is quite a range. My Atomic Hawx Ultra 130 XTD soles held up great through 45 days of skiing (much of it in alpine bindings) while my first generation Tecnica Zero G Guide Pros and Lange XT Freetour 130 soles were pretty trashed in the same period of time.
    I'm just short of 200 days in my 130C's and they have held up pretty well.

  7. #707
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    monument
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    5,584
    I currently have a new old stock Lupo Ti.

    How much better do the new Lupos tour vs the old acid green Lupo Ti?
    Way more ROM in the newer versions?

    But do the new ones ski as well as the ol' acid green PU?


    Any insight would be appreciated.
    In search of the elusive artic powder weasel ...

  8. #708
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    The Fish
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    Orange (130c) and white (factory) boots are both PA boots. Grilamid is a brand of PA. I haven't touched the dark green (130c) boot so I can't confirm but the stated weights tell me its still a PA boot.

    I buy and sell these things for a living but have learned to never confirm something I haven't had in my hands because companies change shit for no reason and don't tell anyone. Sales reps often go off of the literature they are given not experience from handling the boot...
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  9. #709
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by pfluffenmeister View Post
    I currently have a new old stock Lupo Ti.

    How much better do the new Lupos tour vs the old acid green Lupo Ti?
    Way more ROM in the newer versions?

    But do the new ones ski as well as the ol' acid green PU?


    Any insight would be appreciated.
    The difference in touring is huge, the catch is you have to remove the tongue to get the big gain.... IF you get the HD's they should ski as good.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  10. #710
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    SLC
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    518
    Just had the wire ladder for the middle buckle snap on my <1 yr old Factorys. I'm gonna take them back to where I bought them and can hopefully get it taken care of. Anybody else had this happen?
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  11. #711
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Golden B.C.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dshack89 View Post
    Just had the wire ladder for the middle buckle snap on my <1 yr old Factorys. I'm gonna take them back to where I bought them and can hopefully get it taken care of. Anybody else had this happen?
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    Yeah. Snapped a few. Try getting some of the shorter length full tilt cables for the lower buckle on their wide last boots. Around the same length but seem stronger. Have not snapped one yet.

  12. #712
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    Jan 2018
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    6,500'
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    8
    Is anyone using the (newer) Lupo with the Salomon Shift binding and having an issue in touring mode, where the post for the tongue mount is hitting the locking lever on the binding toe, and unlocking the binding?

    This happens to me in awkward kick turns, and sometimes in a really bad place for the toe to unlock. It can also happen in really long strides, or if I'm ski running in a beacon drill.

    I'm thinking I might try some Velcro on the back of the post and the fabric gaiter to keep it in place for touring, but still be able to flip forward to easily install the tongue. Anyone have a homebrew solution or experienced this issue?

  13. #713
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Dirty South sometimes
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    136
    Looking for some opinions on this year's 110 flex lupo HD (maroon) v last year's 120 flex baby blue.

    Worried the 110s might be too soft for my taste. I have skied maestral RS Pat few days as a demo, it's 125 flex, and feels fine.

    I know Flex ratings aren't universal, but looking for some insite on the maroon 110s.

    Thanks!

  14. #714
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    124

    Dalbello Lupo T.I / AT ?

    Anyone have any 120+ lupos in a 28.5 for sale? Pm me


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  15. #715
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    695
    Quote Originally Posted by bowboybb View Post
    Anyone have any 120+ lupos in a 28.5 for sale? Pm me


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  16. #716
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    Mar 2006
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    Missoula, MT
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    20,635
    Anyway besides Cast (which says sold out) to add pin tech compatibility to my Lupo SP's? Is there maybe a drop in outsole that works for it? (These are from when they were all 98mm last, not 100mm in all but the top end. 3 or 4 years ago? 5? They were previous year's when I bought them.)

    Also, I have this weird conundrum where the orange tongues are too stiff and the black tongues, especially if it's warm (which it is), are a bit too soft.

    I could deal with the too stiff tongues if it weren't also for the fact that the boot broke in now to the softer ones, and they are so soft that they conform better to my foot and legs. Basically, the orange tongues don't fit. Crazy, huh? I was skiing with them one day, and I couldn't make my boots as tight, so not only were my boots too stiff and giving me no shock absorption, but they were also loose and made it hard to put my skis where I wanted. Great combo! Oh, and the ankle pressure numbed my whole feet. Fantastic! (How on Earth did I start out with the orange tongues?)

    I have 3 band Boosters, but I'm not sure that would do it as they more change how the boot flexes rather than making it stiffer or softer. World Cup version? Just a plain cam strap a la NRS? Some of the problem may be the shitty power strap.

    Is there a tongue in between? It doesn't look like it, unless something was revised later. It's quite remarkable how different they are just in the hand, let alone skiing. There's got to be something in between! (Heat the orange tongue?)

    If it matters: I've got both leany things in the back (black ones velcroed to the back of the liner) and a heel lift under the liner. Need the forward position.

    Liners that came with it are power wraps, not the tour wraps. The orange tongues just don't fit me!

    Tour wraps and orange tongues and re heating? Those things are hard. Was hoping some of the answer would be in the strap. The black tongue really fits? It doesn't need to be that much stiffer, since if it ever got cold again it would be good and there isn't much to help when it's 40 and sunny.
    In between tongue?
    If I didn't care about the walk mode that I would like to someday use, I'd just bolt the upper and lower together.

    For those who replaced the power strap, what hardware did you use to replace the rivets? I could always start with Booster.
    And toe pin fittings? Doesn't seem like a DIY thing. Anyone do it in Missoula? Bozeman? Whitefish?

    Gonna have to go back to 4 buckle? I'd rather not spend the money.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  17. #717
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Golden B.C.
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Anyway besides Cast (which says sold out) to add pin tech compatibility to my Lupo SP's? Is there maybe a drop in outsole that works for it? (These are from when they were all 98mm last, not 100mm in all but the top end. 3 or 4 years ago? 5? They were previous year's when I bought them.)

    Also, I have this weird conundrum where the orange tongues are too stiff and the black tongues, especially if it's warm (which it is), are a bit too soft.

    I could deal with the too stiff tongues if it weren't also for the fact that the boot broke in now to the softer ones, and they are so soft that they conform better to my foot and legs. Basically, the orange tongues don't fit. Crazy, huh? I was skiing with them one day, and I couldn't make my boots as tight, so not only were my boots too stiff and giving me no shock absorption, but they were also loose and made it hard to put my skis where I wanted. Great combo! Oh, and the ankle pressure numbed my whole feet. Fantastic! (How on Earth did I start out with the orange tongues?)

    I have 3 band Boosters, but I'm not sure that would do it as they more change how the boot flexes rather than making it stiffer or softer. World Cup version? Just a plain cam strap a la NRS? Some of the problem may be the shitty power strap.

    Is there a tongue in between? It doesn't look like it, unless something was revised later. It's quite remarkable how different they are just in the hand, let alone skiing. There's got to be something in between! (Heat the orange tongue?)

    If it matters: I've got both leany things in the back (black ones velcroed to the back of the liner) and a heel lift under the liner. Need the forward position.

    Liners that came with it are power wraps, not the tour wraps. The orange tongues just don't fit me!

    Tour wraps and orange tongues and re heating? Those things are hard. Was hoping some of the answer would be in the strap. The black tongue really fits? It doesn't need to be that much stiffer, since if it ever got cold again it would be good and there isn't much to help when it's 40 and sunny.
    In between tongue?
    If I didn't care about the walk mode that I would like to someday use, I'd just bolt the upper and lower together.

    For those who replaced the power strap, what hardware did you use to replace the rivets? I could always start with Booster.
    And toe pin fittings? Doesn't seem like a DIY thing. Anyone do it in Missoula? Bozeman? Whitefish?

    Gonna have to go back to 4 buckle? I'd rather not spend the money.
    Whoa that is quite the rant...

    No easy on tech fittings for the Lupo SP.

    Yes tounges between old B and C flex exist now.

    Use tnuts to replace rivets.

    Good luck

  18. #718
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    20,635
    What tongues are these?
    Scuse the rant.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  19. #719
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Golden B.C.
    Posts
    323
    My 125AX came with a P flex, which on the icon indicator is between B and C. I think these are what you want.

  20. #720
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,226
    X post from gear swap (26.5 Lupo Pro HD): https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...-HD-boots-26-5

  21. #721
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    20,635
    Hey look, cam straps! You have this mythical "P" flex? In Missoula any time soon?
    I think the crazy stiff and uncomfortable orange tongues are B.

    Can you get locking T nuts at the hardware store? Those look just like the kind normally used in boots normally. Awesome.
    Might just start with those and Booster or other Cam straps next weekend when I'm home and have time.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  22. #722
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    1,337
    Bumpin because Im in the market for some 28.5 lupos... whos holdin!?


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  23. #723
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    20,635
    Alright, I'm home. Who got them P tongues?
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  24. #724
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    48
    Noob question here

    I have some intuition power wraps with only about 40 days on them from another boot, would it be idiotic to re-mold them in my lupo pros for resort skiing, or should i just sell them and buy some tour wraps when the time comes to retire the stock liners?

  25. #725
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rossland
    Posts
    26
    That's what I've done. Powerwraps inbounds, stock for touring.

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