Dalbello Lupo T.I / AT ?

[burrito]

Stuck here in CA under stay-at-home orders having previously planned on van camping in Mammoth all of Christmas/New Years...so naturally I'm looking at screwing with my boots again to stave off the boredom.

Two seasons ago I modded my 130 Cs to ditch the unnecessary (for me) front buckle and replace the velcro power straps with Voile XL straps (in lieu of heavier Booster Straps) since I love the feeling of an elastic power strap. I've been rocking Boosters on every boot since my OG Kryptons, and it has always bugged me how close it is to the top buckle - especially on the Lupos. I feel like there has to be a way to combine the top buckle and elastic strap into a single feature, basically an elastic buckle. Anyone messed around with a single top retention system?

Note: The original Lupo Factory (the black and white version) had the top buckle at the higher mount point and ditched the power strap entirely, but I assume people weren't too into that since Dalbello immediately reverted to the traditional buckle/strap layout for the boot's second season. If I could get my hands on a set of those original parts, though, and find a way to add some elasticity, I think it'd be what I'm looking for.

Current state of my boots

[nickwm21]

Stuck here in CA under stay-at-home orders having previously planned on van camping in Mammoth all of Christmas/New Years...so naturally I'm looking at screwing with my boots again to stave off the boredom.

Two seasons ago I modded my 130 Cs to ditch the unnecessary (for me) front buckle and replace the velcro power straps with Voile XL straps (in lieu of heavier Booster Straps) since I love the feeling of an elastic power strap. I've been rocking Boosters on every boot since my OG Kryptons, and it has always bugged me how close it is to the top buckle - especially on the Lupos. I feel like there has to be a way to combine the top buckle and elastic strap into a single feature, basically an elastic buckle. Anyone messed around with a single top retention system?

Note: The original Lupo Factory (the black and white version) had the top buckle at the higher mount point and ditched the power strap entirely, but I assume people weren't too into that since Dalbello immediately reverted to the traditional buckle/strap layout for the boot's second season. If I could get my hands on a set of those original parts, though, and find a way to add some elasticity, I think it'd be what I'm looking for.

Current state of my boots

Edit: nevermind

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dshack89]

I unbolted and removed the upper buckle entirely and replaced with just a booster strap on my Factorys (I've only got the middle buckle and booster strap). Transitions are very quick and weight is down but they still ski fine to me (granted my other touring boot is an Alien RS, so take it with a grain of salt).

[burrito]

I unbolted and removed the upper buckle entirely and replaced with just a booster strap on my Factorys (I've only got the middle buckle and booster strap). Transitions are very quick and weight is down but they still ski fine to me (granted my other touring boot is an Alien RS, so take it with a grain of salt).

Right on. Where did you mount your Boosters? I've tested a similar setup with the Voiles (mounted at standard power strap spot at the very top of the cuff/tongue, and my only complaint was that the pressure they provided was a little too focused at the top of the tongue, causing some weird leverage issues when I flexed into the boot. My idea with the original Factory model parts was to try to spread out that pressure, but now I'm thinking maybe all I need to do is move the straps down a bit.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I drilled out the shitty power straps on my SP's and put on 1" NRS straps with t-nuts. Inelastic. Works great! Keeps me from over flexing the boot while still having the softer tongues that conform to me better. Plus, I don't have to worry about them tearing.
Gonna have to get them Casted.

[riff]

Stuck here in CA under stay-at-home orders having previously planned on van camping in Mammoth all of Christmas/New Years...so naturally I'm looking at screwing with my boots again to stave off the boredom.

Two seasons ago I modded my 130 Cs to ditch the unnecessary (for me) front buckle and replace the velcro power straps with Voile XL straps (in lieu of heavier Booster Straps) since I love the feeling of an elastic power strap. I've been rocking Boosters on every boot since my OG Kryptons, and it has always bugged me how close it is to the top buckle - especially on the Lupos. I feel like there has to be a way to combine the top buckle and elastic strap into a single feature, basically an elastic buckle. Anyone messed around with a single top retention system?

Note: The original Lupo Factory (the black and white version) had the top buckle at the higher mount point and ditched the power strap entirely, but I assume people weren't too into that since Dalbello immediately reverted to the traditional buckle/strap layout for the boot's second season. If I could get my hands on a set of those original parts, though, and find a way to add some elasticity, I think it'd be what I'm looking for.

Current state of my boots

Sounds like you’re still happy with removing the front buckle; I’m pretty close to doing it too. Also considering deleting the fiddly tongue securing hardware- it’s all on a slider so it doesn’t actually anchor the tongue in a meaningful way right? The instep buckle does that....right?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[burrito]

Sounds like you’re still happy with removing the front buckle; I’m pretty close to doing it too. Also considering deleting the fiddly tongue securing hardware- it’s all on a slider so it doesn’t actually anchor the tongue in a meaningful way right? The instep buckle does that....right?

I definitely don't miss the front buckle at all. Even my narrow feet don't have any slop in Dalbello's 98mm last (Factory, Pro HD, and 130C.)

You're right that the clip at the toe isn't doing anything functional once you're buckled up, but it does keep the tongue attached when the boot is unbuckled. It's actually a pretty ingenious little bit of design and engineering, basically just relying on the flex of the clip to barely grab or release the nub on top of the slider. In my opinion it's nice to keep everything together when you're taking your boots on and off, and it makes it much easier to register the tongue in the right spot when you're buckling up. If you were to remove the clip you'd have to resign yourself to the fact that every time you take you boots off the tongue will probably fall off, and every time you're buckling up you'll have to be careful not to accidentally knock the tongue out of place. It's worth keeping, in my mind.

[MegaStoke]

Sounds like you’re still happy with removing the front buckle; I’m pretty close to doing it too. Also considering deleting the fiddly tongue securing hardware- it’s all on a slider so it doesn’t actually anchor the tongue in a meaningful way right? The instep buckle does that....right?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I deleted the tongue holder thing and don’t miss it one bit. Still using the toe buckle, although now you guys have me thinking...

[burrito]

I deleted the tongue holder thing and don’t miss it one bit. Still using the toe buckle, although now you guys have me thinking...

With the lower buckle in place, yeah the tongue holder clip is probably superfluous. I messed around with my lower buckle-less boots last night with the clips in the "unlocked" position, though, and I stand by my opinion that without both the clip and the lower buckle you're going to be pretty annoyed keeping the tongues in place while trying to buckle up during transitions. I'd be constantly terrified of accidentally losing my footing or something on top of a summit and watching my poor little tongue fall off and bounce all the way back down the mountain into oblivion.

At the end of the day that clip is what, less than a gram? Hardly seems worth the possibility of losing a tongue.

[mad7e9]

I deleted the tounge holder because it interfered with my Salomon Shifts. It knocks down the front lever when doing kick turns and then the ski easily comes loose after a few more steps. Almost returned the binding before realizing the cause .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[burrito]

I deleted the tounge holder because it interfered with my Salomon Shifts. It knocks down the front lever when doing kick turns and then the ski easily comes loose after a few more steps. Almost returned the binding before realizing the cause .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Oh weird. That’s a bummer. Are you talking about the metal post on the slider (skinning with tongues) or the clip on the tongue itself (skinning with tongues)? I’m rocking the same setup but haven’t had that issue.

[mad7e9]

Oh weird. That’s a bummer. Are you talking about the metal post on the slider (skinning with tongues) or the clip on the tongue itself (skinning with tongues)? I’m rocking the same setup but haven’t had that issue.

The metal post (never skin with tongues). On my boots the slider always were lying forwards, not sure if that's common.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[skisurfmirth]

Ive had that issue as well with the tongue holding post hitting the lock lever on the toe piece on kick turns (ion lt). I started just pulling the wire out of its sleeve on the boot and keeping the holder in the tongue on certain tours, especially if using snowmobile to access. Have moved to lupo air 130 now for less tongue fuckery.

[burrito]

...Have moved to lupo air 130 now for less tongue fuckery.

What’s you opinion of the Air so far?

[burrito]

Must be a size thing. Plenty of clearance for 26.5

[Skiwald]

The metal post (never skin with tongues). On my boots the slider always were lying forwards, not sure if that's common.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I have had this same problem for the past few years on multiple pairs of lupos. Really annoying if you’re doing lots of kick turns. Only thing I hate other than having to deal with the tongue.

That bring said the lupo factory and HD are the best performing touring boots I’ve ever skied on.

Lupo air: didn’t like it. It’s no where near the stiffness or performance of the Lupo factory or HD. I keep hoping a light boot comes around that skis really well but I always end up going back to the heavier boots. Anyone want to buy mine?! 25.5 baked once skied twice.




Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[mad7e9]

Must be a size thing. Plenty of clearance for 26.5

Mine falls forward. Size 26.5.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[FullStop]

I deleted the tounge holder because it interfered with my Salomon Shifts. It knocks down the front lever when doing kick turns and then the ski easily comes loose after a few more steps. Almost returned the binding before realizing the cause .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Weird, neither I or any of my touring partners with Lupos have experienced that over the past 3 seasons.

[burrito]

Mine falls forward. Size 26.5

Ohhhhh. I see what's going on. I'll have to keep an eye out for it. Probably easy enough to throw some tacky grease in the holes to keep the clip from flopping around as it gets looser over time.

[SupreChicken]

I have had this same problem for the past few years on multiple pairs of lupos. Really annoying if you’re doing lots of kick turns. Only thing I hate other than having to deal with the tongue.

That bring said the lupo factory and HD are the best performing touring boots I’ve ever skied on.

Lupo air: didn’t like it. It’s no where near the stiffness or performance of the Lupo factory or HD. I keep hoping a light boot comes around that skis really well but I always end up going back to the heavier boots. Anyone want to buy mine?! 25.5 baked once skied twice.




Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

It’s not a replacement, but the zero g pro holds its own. It has similar lean and cuff height to the lupo ti. Worth trying if you want a lighter boot that performs well.

[skisurfmirth]

What’s you opinion of the Air so far?

Im fairly happy with them after 1.5 season but ive had to change up all the buckles and add a power strap. They are by far the stiffest AX model ive used (vs 125AX)and are really close to my lupo carbon. Even did a day of one boot on each foot for real time contrast and compare. Biggest down side is the decreased ROM vs carbon when walking. Vibram soles are 10/10 awesome. Good snowmobiling boot too.

[TheK12]

Since this is a Lupo thread, figured this might be a good place for my questions. Apologies if it isn't and you can ignore...

Anyway... I have the Lupo AX HD and have noticed that when I flex forward, I can feel the boot board shifting rearward. I think what's happening is that when I flex forward, the forefoot area of my foot presses down on the front of the boot board and at the same time, my heel lifts. When my heel lifts, the heel of the boot board lifts up from the stops and the whole boot board shifts rearward. It's a weird feeling when this happens and I almost went over the bars when I overflexed the boots on a hard groomer

So.....questions:
1. Has anybody else experienced this on Lupos? if so, how did you stop it from happening?
2. How can I stiffen up the flex? Lupo AX have a 110 flex rating and I probably need it 1 level up. The tongue looks to have a P-M designation

[burrito]

So.....questions:
1. Has anybody else experienced this on Lupos? if so, how did you stop it from happening?
2. How can I stiffen up the flex? Lupo AX have a 110 flex rating and I probably need it 1 level up. The tongue looks to have a P-M designation

My first thoughts, from cheapest/easiest to most expensive/complicated:


0. Not exactly a suggestion but more of an observation: It sounds like your boots are too big, too loose, too soft, or some combination of the three.
1. Hot glue the boards into the boot. Definitely won't solve the over-flexing issue, but it might at least keep the boot boards in place.
2. Crank the crap out of your instep buckles. It's the most effective way to keep your heel from lifting. If you're at the ends of the buckles' notches and still can't get them tight enough, unscrew the buckle catches and slide them to their secondary position on the cable, effectively giving you an extra couple of notches.
3. Order stiffer tongues from Dalbello.
4. Add an Intuition Wrap or Tour Wrap liner. It will take up some volume and add some stiffness.
5. Check out the Pro HD/130C/Factory, which all come standard with the 130-flex tongue. They all also have a narrower last than the AX series, so if your foot/ankle fits they will definitely help with heel lift.

[TheK12]

My first thoughts, from cheapest/easiest to most expensive/complicated:


0. Not exactly a suggestion but more of an observation: It sounds like your boots are too big, too loose, too soft, or some combination of the three.
1. Hot glue the boards into the boot. Definitely won't solve the over-flexing issue, but it might at least keep the boot boards in place.
2. Crank the crap out of your instep buckles. It's the most effective way to keep your heel from lifting. If you're at the ends of the buckles' notches and still can't get them tight enough, unscrew the buckle catches and slide them to their secondary position on the cable, effectively giving you an extra couple of notches.
3. Order stiffer tongues from Dalbello.
4. Add an Intuition Wrap or Tour Wrap liner. It will take up some volume and add some stiffness.
5. Check out the Pro HD/130C/Factory, which all come standard with the 130-flex tongue. They all also have a narrower last than the AX series, so if your foot/ankle fits they will definitely help with heel lift.

Thanks for the response! I think I'm in the right size boot, at least from a last and instep perspective. Fit feels good and tight and heel feels pretty snug in liner heel pocket. When my heel does come up from the overflex, my heel stays in the liner heel pocket and the whole liner comes up.

Hmmm.... maybe the first fix is to try the stiffer tongue. What is the next level stiffness from the P-M designation? Assuming it's P-M as that is what is stamped on the inside of the tongues.

As for the instep buckle. Yep, have found that by cranking it down, it does alleviate the heel lift issues which then alleviates the boot board shift problem but then my feet get cold... but I guess I can manage this by unbuckling after a run.

Anyway... thanks for the ideas!

[burrito]

Thanks for the response! I think I'm in the right size boot, at least from a last and instep perspective. Fit feels good and tight and heel feels pretty snug in liner heel pocket. When my heel does come up from the overflex, my heel stays in the liner heel pocket and the whole liner comes up.

Hmmm.... maybe the first fix is to try the stiffer tongue. What is the next level stiffness from the P-M designation? Assuming it's P-M as that is what is stamped on the inside of the tongues.

As for the instep buckle. Yep, have found that by cranking it down, it does alleviate the heel lift issues which then alleviates the boot board shift problem but then my feet get cold... but I guess I can manage this by unbuckling after a run.

Anyway... thanks for the ideas!

Happy to help. Dalbello's tongue letter designations are weird, but as far as I've been able to figure out from other sources (mostly Blister's review of the Pro HD and the comments that follow) the Lupo tongues go as follows:

C - Medium - Stated flex 120 - approx real-world flex 100-110 - Standard on AX HD and 120 models
P - Medium/Stiff - Stated flex 130 - approx real-world flex 120 - Standard on 130C
B - Stiffest - Stated flex 130 - approx real-world flex 130 - Standard on PRO HD

I don't know what M, A, and D are. One is likely the AX 90 and another the AX 105 W, but their order would suggest that at least M and A are stiffer than B, which doesn't make much sense. So who knows.