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  1. #701
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    In a parallel universe
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    So how are you able to decipher? All the literature for the past 2 seasons since the ‘orange’ 130C came out has stated it’s Grilamid...and to me, it feels like it has the ‘softer’ nature of Grilamid (in durability).
    I am going to amend my post....
    I was basing my original thoughts on some visual cues regarding wear and deformation, however, I am now questioning the assumption.
    I pulled the liners out of each and went looking for the tooling stamp on the lower clog and found what I believe to be a "PA" (Polyamide) reference on both.

  2. #702
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    1,603
    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    I am going to amend my post....
    I was basing my original thoughts on some visual cues regarding wear and deformation, however, I am now questioning the assumption.
    I pulled the liners out of each and went looking for the tooling stamp on the lower clog and found what I believe to be a "PA" (Polyamide) reference on both.
    Also, both the 130C and Factory shell weights are almost identical where as the PU Lupo Pro HD gains 100+ grams.


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  3. #703
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
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    3,363
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Interesting, I assume the PU will take a punch better - or is there not much difference?
    In general, Grilamid (there are many different formulas) punches great, you just can't abuse it with heat. There are also hundreds of different PU-Ether compounds, which generally punch well and are more heat resistant (less chance of making a mistake, or more similar to traditional PU boots bootfitters are already used to). Part of the challenge is that Grilamid shells in comparable stiffness are much thinner. In terms of holding a punch (absence of plastic memory) both are fine if done correctly.

  4. #704
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
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    3,363
    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    ??? No

    The 'orange' 130C is a Grilamid shell, same as the Factory. I see the Dalbello website shows the current 2020 'dark green' version listing PU. That is either a website error or they actually changed this year's material to PU.

    I get that you work in a shop so it would be nice to get some real clarification on this.
    Was told by the rep this fall that the 130C shell was PU, not sure about the orange one, Factory and Air have always been Grilamid . . . no guarantee, of course, that either the rep or Dalbello website is correct.

  5. #705
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
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    In terms of durability of Grilamid, there is quite a range. My Atomic Hawx Ultra 130 XTD soles held up great through 45 days of skiing (much of it in alpine bindings) while my first generation Tecnica Zero G Guide Pros and Lange XT Freetour 130 soles were pretty trashed in the same period of time.

  6. #706
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    In a parallel universe
    Posts
    4,711
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    In terms of durability of Grilamid, there is quite a range. My Atomic Hawx Ultra 130 XTD soles held up great through 45 days of skiing (much of it in alpine bindings) while my first generation Tecnica Zero G Guide Pros and Lange XT Freetour 130 soles were pretty trashed in the same period of time.
    I'm just short of 200 days in my 130C's and they have held up pretty well.

  7. #707
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    monument
    Posts
    5,550
    I currently have a new old stock Lupo Ti.

    How much better do the new Lupos tour vs the old acid green Lupo Ti?
    Way more ROM in the newer versions?

    But do the new ones ski as well as the ol' acid green PU?


    Any insight would be appreciated.
    In search of the elusive artic powder weasel ...

  8. #708
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    3,141
    Orange (130c) and white (factory) boots are both PA boots. Grilamid is a brand of PA. I haven't touched the dark green (130c) boot so I can't confirm but the stated weights tell me its still a PA boot.

    I buy and sell these things for a living but have learned to never confirm something I haven't had in my hands because companies change shit for no reason and don't tell anyone. Sales reps often go off of the literature they are given not experience from handling the boot...
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  9. #709
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    3,141
    Quote Originally Posted by pfluffenmeister View Post
    I currently have a new old stock Lupo Ti.

    How much better do the new Lupos tour vs the old acid green Lupo Ti?
    Way more ROM in the newer versions?

    But do the new ones ski as well as the ol' acid green PU?


    Any insight would be appreciated.
    The difference in touring is huge, the catch is you have to remove the tongue to get the big gain.... IF you get the HD's they should ski as good.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  10. #710
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    454
    Just had the wire ladder for the middle buckle snap on my <1 yr old Factorys. I'm gonna take them back to where I bought them and can hopefully get it taken care of. Anybody else had this happen?
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  11. #711
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Golden B.C.
    Posts
    311
    Quote Originally Posted by Dshack89 View Post
    Just had the wire ladder for the middle buckle snap on my <1 yr old Factorys. I'm gonna take them back to where I bought them and can hopefully get it taken care of. Anybody else had this happen?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeah. Snapped a few. Try getting some of the shorter length full tilt cables for the lower buckle on their wide last boots. Around the same length but seem stronger. Have not snapped one yet.

  12. #712
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    6,500'
    Posts
    7
    Is anyone using the (newer) Lupo with the Salomon Shift binding and having an issue in touring mode, where the post for the tongue mount is hitting the locking lever on the binding toe, and unlocking the binding?

    This happens to me in awkward kick turns, and sometimes in a really bad place for the toe to unlock. It can also happen in really long strides, or if I'm ski running in a beacon drill.

    I'm thinking I might try some Velcro on the back of the post and the fabric gaiter to keep it in place for touring, but still be able to flip forward to easily install the tongue. Anyone have a homebrew solution or experienced this issue?

  13. #713
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Dirty South sometimes
    Posts
    136
    Looking for some opinions on this year's 110 flex lupo HD (maroon) v last year's 120 flex baby blue.

    Worried the 110s might be too soft for my taste. I have skied maestral RS Pat few days as a demo, it's 125 flex, and feels fine.

    I know Flex ratings aren't universal, but looking for some insite on the maroon 110s.

    Thanks!

  14. #714
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    111

    Dalbello Lupo T.I / AT ?

    Anyone have any 120+ lupos in a 28.5 for sale? Pm me


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  15. #715
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    659
    Quote Originally Posted by bowboybb View Post
    Anyone have any 120+ lupos in a 28.5 for sale? Pm me


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