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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Posts
    361
    Quote Originally Posted by SkyIsland View Post
    Longboarding is interesting, in that in SoCal I think it creates more scarcity much of the time. I'm too wimpy to want to get out through most SoCal beachbreaks on a longboard, anyway, so shortboarding just on that level gives me more access and for me keeps it enjoyable and a bit easier as regards getting out.
    Get somebody to shape you a mini longboard. I had my buddy make one for my wife. 6'10 longboard nose, flat through the bulk of the board but a tri fin pin tail that will rip some mean cut backs when you want it to. It also pumps like a shortboard. I loved riding it big days at middles/churches.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by media310 View Post
    Rip Tides
    Let a kook talk long enough and they'll reveal themselves.

    So what are you? A skier who pretends to surf? Or a click baiter who pretends to do anything but?

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    804
    Quote Originally Posted by wildmanwillie View Post
    Let a kook talk long enough and they'll reveal themselves.

    So what are you? A skier who pretends to surf? Or a click baiter who pretends to do anything but?


    The amount of stoke that comes out of this forum is so welcoming. I guess NOAA has it all wrong

    "COASTAL HAZARD MESSAGE
    NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN DIEGO CA
    134 PM PST FRI DEC 19 2014

    ...HIGH ASTRONOMICAL TIDES AND ELEVATED SURF TO CREATE STRONG RIP
    CURRENTS AND MINOR TIDAL OVERFLOW...

    .A FRESH WEST SWELL WILL CREATE ELEVATED SURF ALONG WEST FACING
    BEACHES IN SAN DIEGO AND ORANGE COUNTIES THIS WEEKEND THROUGH
    EARLY NEXT WEEK. ASTRONOMICAL HIGH TIDES ABOVE 7 FEET EACH
    MORNING...COMBINED WITH THE ELEVATED SURF...WILL CREATE THE
    POSSIBILITY OF MINOR TIDAL OVERFLOW INTO LOW-LYING AREAS ALONG THE
    BEACH. STRONG RIP CURRENTS WILL ALSO BE POSSIBLE THROUGH THE
    PERIOD. CONDITIONS WILL IMPROVE BY THE MIDDLE OF NEXT WEEK."

    Lets see a 7 foot high tide, lots of swell tide maxes out and then what.. The water goes... Back out to the ocean, hmm that creates what??

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    67
    Can't say I've ever worried about that issue in SoCal, but to each their own. Lifestyle-wise, one other issue is the effect of altitude dopamine and serotonin-wise. Basically, some people are mountain people brain-wise, some are happier at sea level because higher elevations starve them of serotonin. So, some people really are happier physically, not just from the surfing or riding.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    9,032
    Quote Originally Posted by thewon View Post
    but even then it was waist high at best.
    How is that different than the surf in Maine.

    Quote Originally Posted by splitinbend View Post
    You crave perfect waves, and when the right swell finally shows up, you have to share with others when all i want is a beach to myself.
    Maybe that is the problem. Get off the beach. I've got to agree with the 'find a different stretch of coastline'. I live in a super crowded surf town, but most days, even when it is pumping, I surf with 5 or fewer on a ledge, or maybe up to twenty on a submerged point that has a 75 yard long take off zone. Too often I am solo (which I really do not like; I prefer to have one other out there with me) There are still plenty of options out there for quality waves and jobs. Not that I want you to leave Bend.

    Quote Originally Posted by TEXASS View Post
    . Moved to NYC when I was 23 because of work. Ended up 5 houses from the boardwalk in Rockaway.
    When was that? I surfed 92nd St from about 90-95. Mostly just fall & winter. Would leave for Maine most summers. Really enjoyed that wave.



    Anyway, figured I'd join in. Lots of funny in this thread. BTW, this has been discussed on this forum before, so, yeah Media, search function jong.

    Here is what I see as different. When you surf, and enter the ocean, you best be prepared for the ocean. Yes, there can be rip current (wildwillie must only ride the kiddie waves if he does not know about those things), side shore current, currents on/off the reef/bar, along with the waves. When you paddle out into larger surf (say at about DOH), the consequence can be significant if you fuck up. Even yesterday I had a solid 8 second hold down from a head high bowl. I've been pushed into reefs, held under for 30 seconds, dragged to shore, and more. Basically, once you put your self in the water, you need to get your self out. I can recall one day watching Pt Arena break at 35-40'. 4 Guys were out. I watched for about an hour and turned away and headed south a bit to a more protected point. The reason was I could not see anyway of getting in other than riding a wave, and I was not sure I would be able to get myself into one. The current in the channel was rushing out to sea so fast it had 4 foot undulations in it.

    Snow, on the other hand is pretty tame. As theWon stated, it is static. You can get butterflies at the top of the line, and still decide not to go. You can head out on a powder day and ski only mellow lines. You can make three turns down a big face and stop. You can stop mid face. Try that on a wave.

    I really enjoy both. Started surfing and close to 30 years ago. Started to ski before that. Gave up skiing for a good 15 years before coming back to it. For a few of those years I would surf the clean fall swells, then once it snowed, would focus on snow play until the snow pack melted in summer. Once my son was born, I started to surf more year round again, and have started to get back into the bigger stuff. Of course, recently I had a choice of taking out the big board or hitting some inbounds powder. Chose to ski that day. Might surf the next. But then again, I had eight days of surf ranging from head to DOH after that powder day, so not feeling like I missed too much.

    SoCal is a crowded shit show tho. Not just at the beach. BTW, do any of you know how your snow is looking down there? Hoping to ski down there this April.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    9,032
    just watched your vid media. as our friend the whitedildo would say, jajajajajajajaja. It is pretty funny dramatic.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    YetiMan
    Posts
    10,632
    Quote Originally Posted by SkyIsland View Post
    Can't say I've ever worried about that issue in SoCal, but to each their own. Lifestyle-wise, one other issue is the effect of altitude dopamine and serotonin-wise. Basically, some people are mountain people brain-wise, some are happier at sea level because higher elevations starve them of serotonin. So, some people really are happier physically, not just from the surfing or riding.
    No shit....so there isn't an adaptive adjustment over time? I can see how that would work on a temporary basis, but once a person has lived at higher altitude and generated more oxygen-carrying capacity the serotonin/dopamine effects remain?

    I find that idea really fascinating, can you point me to some reference material on this?

    edit: never mind...I'm finding stuff pretty easily. what an interesting phenomenon, thanks for your post.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    the Can-Utardia / LMCC VT
    Posts
    11,041
    Quote Originally Posted by YetiMan View Post
    No shit....so there isn't an adaptive adjustment over time? I can see how that would work on a temporary basis, but once a person has lived at higher altitude and generated more oxygen-carrying capacity the serotonin/dopamine effects remain?

    I find that idea really fascinating, can you point me to some reference material on this?

    edit: never mind...I'm finding stuff pretty easily. what an interesting phenomenon, thanks for your post.
    There is evidence that living at elevation leads to higher rates of depression and suicide due to these factors. So perhaps there is not a complete adjustment, at least for a significant portion of the population

    Sent from my SM-G900V using TGR Forums
    Quote Originally Posted by Hohes View Post
    I couldn't give a fuck, but today I am procrastinating so TGR is my filler.
    Quote Originally Posted by skifishbum View Post
    faceshots are a powerful currency
    get paid

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lakeside California
    Posts
    497
    I was at 122nd street from sept to May but during blackball I ride my beach cruiser down yo 92nd street.
    I was there in 1985-86. Got a great hurricane swell in september.
    I moved up from the Texas gulf coast I knew NYC had waves but I didn't know they had great waves
    Went out to Atlantic beach a lot and out to Jones a few times.
    Cape May a couple times. Loved it
    Skinny white boy riding a beach cruiser through the getto with a board under my arm. Never got fucked with

    Strangest thing was having to buy a license to surf (cape may nj ) and having three mafia like thugs tell me I couldn't come in in their private beach

    The current had taken from the public beach to one of those Jersey Shore resorts

    Wierd to me but just another local custom
    Last edited by TEXASS; 01-06-2015 at 09:56 AM.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    9,032
    I used to carry my board on the subway. From the village out to Rockaway in te early 90s. Went under some rough parts of the city. Saw plenty of gang bangers. Never got fucked with. One cold February day I saw a gang of boys watching me from the far end of the car, talking and pointing at me. One of the younger ones approached, and I did feel a bit nervous. He came up to me and asked what was in my bag. Told him it was a surfboard. He walked back to his group. What looked like the ring leader got up an shuffled down the car. He asked me why I had a board. Told him I was going surfing. He nods his head and then says, "You bad, motherfucker. You bad." Definitely earned respect back then for just being willing to get in the ocean mid winter. NYC is a funny place at times.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    765
    Jaja

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