Suggestions on Hiking the Teton Range

**Gerome** · 09-08-2014, 10:23 AM

I'm going to have a few free days in Jackson this weekend. I would like to summit something big in the area, but my climbing equipment is in California. I have cold weather and rain gear, but just running shoes. Are there any spectacular, airy hikes/climbs up to class 4 in the Teton Range that I should do?

I can see the popular route up the Grand Teton on the Strava heat map. Summit Post indicates it's a 5.4 climb, which is well within my abilities. Is there a shop in Jackson that rents climbing gear?

Teewinot could be an option at class 4. But it sounds like the downclimb could be difficult without rock shoes or a rope for backup.

School me!

**butterscotch** · 09-08-2014, 10:43 AM

I was thinking about starting a similar thread as my wife and I headed down this weekend as well. We are looking at doing Middle Teton via SW couloir (mostly class 3) and Buck Mountain via the East face (also class 3). I'd offer to meet up but we're not mountaineers and I'm afraid of heights so I have no idea if I'll be able handle this stuff.

I have heard that there is a strong likelihood of encountering snow/ice/verglas above 11 k ft, especially on N and W aspects. There's already been a couple rounds of snow up there. (This is from the Jenny Lake Ranger Station blog, via my wife.)

If any locals want to chime in conditions that would be sweet, forecast is looking iffy for mid-week.

**yeahman** · 09-08-2014, 06:01 PM

Originally Posted by butterscotch

We are looking at doing Middle Teton via SW couloir (mostly class 3).

In my opinion that's the easiest climb that's going to get you the highest in the Tetons.

**Gerome** · 09-08-2014, 08:03 PM

SW couloir of Middle Teton sounds great, just enough exposure without really needing gear. I'm certainly happy to rent gear, but I'm sure any mountaineering shop will rent boots, ice axe and crampons, but nothing climbing related. . There must be very little gps signal in garnet Canyon since there is nothing showing up on the Strava Heat Map in that area. I found the route description on summit post here: http://www.summitpost.org/southwest-couloir/157916
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I was biking in Big Sky yesterday, and there was a patch of snow at 9400 feet, and I could see a small snowfield on the Sphinx, so there will be some snow on Middle Teton, but I can't imagine too much on the south facing slopes.

Any other suggestions?

**JAREDS** · 09-08-2014, 09:11 PM

Owen Spalding up the grand can be done w no climbing gear. I think it's class 4 or low class 5 but really only a couple moves. Prob still full of ppl (can't confirm but it's always been super crowded when I've been up there) so you should be able to find your way up.

**yeahman** · 09-09-2014, 07:01 PM

Originally Posted by JAREDS

Owen Spalding up the grand can be done w no climbing gear. I think it's class 4 or low class 5 but really only a couple moves. Prob still full of ppl (can't confirm but it's always been super crowded when I've been up there) so you should be able to find your way up.

Fine route, and easy in good weather, but most people do the freehanging rappel on the descent. Downclimbing in any sort of wet weather would be somewhat treacherous. So I'd still pick the SW couloir on the Middle Teton if I had no rope and harness.

Another option if all else fails and you just need to get up something is Disappointment Peak, an easy scramble that gives a great close up view of the Grand. St. John's is another easy scramble and you get to go through a really cool hanging valley. All route descriptions are found in Ortenburger's guide to the Tetons...

**Gerome** · 09-10-2014, 12:16 PM

Owen Spaulding route looks spectacular. It could even be worth buying gear if weather is good. Free soloing 5.4 was exciting once, but I don't need to make it a habit. I'll check out the local shops once I'm in town.