Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[Deebased]

Thanks again for the advice on my engineered hardwood install. I installed over the painted fir t&g as people suggested and everything went smoothly. I didn't get a good before photo, but on December 20, this room was avocado green with carpet.

I pulled the baseboards and painted first - it took primer + 2 top coats to cover up the green. Next step was taking out the old carpet and installing the flooring. I like to leave notes inside projects for future renovators, but didn't have time on this one -- too bad because it would have been easy to write a message and leave it under the flooring.

The desk in the pictures doesn't fit through the door (I'd have had to take the top off, which seemed like too much of a hassle), so I worked around it. In retrospect, I should have taken 10 minutes to take the top off and get it out of the room, it was a PITA.

Attachment 356218

Attachment 356219

Attachment 356220

Is that VG fir with fiberglass windows?

[char_]

T

my guess here is that the drill hole will be much higher and may not work for inside of drawer. Does look like the 8 bracket holds it all together. maybe once its off you can countersink inside and put something like a nut you can tighten from outside? Dunno.

This is TGR, spinning screws should be slow set expoxied.

[El Chupacabra]

T
This is TGR, spinning screws should be slow set expoxied.

And only with Hardman epoxy. Or Gorilla Glue. Or Aquaseal.

[old goat]

If having to remove the drawer front in the future to retighten the knob is a concern use a little thread lock or if the hole in the back of the drawer front where the screw head is countersunk is big enough use a little lock washer.

[powdrhound]

My money is on the screw being too long. Will need a washer, or better - grind off 1/8”.

[wooley12]

Maybe should be in the "My Wife" thread but this worked like a boss for the repair. Used Ultra Clear DAP for the glue.

[old goat]

Maybe should be in the "My Wife" thread but this worked like a boss for the repair. Used Ultra Clear DAP for the glue.

I need to remember that one.

[El Chupacabra]

Better photo of the hardware holding on the drawer face, from the back side - I haven't tried removing the hardware to see what happens, but if that'll do it, I'll go that route.

Removing the screws on that "figure 8" clip does the trick. There's a faint amount of adhesive between the face and the inner part of the drawer, but not much. Easy to remove the screw on one side, loosen the other screw, then tighten the drawer knob.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

[Skidog]

Removing the screws on that "figure 8" clip does the trick. There's a faint amount of adhesive between the face and the inner part of the drawer, but not much. Easy to remove the screw on one side, loosen the other screw, then tighten the drawer knob.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

my next tip is, next time make it seem a LOT harder, so the wife is super appreciative. Like huff and puff, pull all the drawers and stuff out, drag down to shop...bang a hammer and bitch every few minutes loudly...drink copious amounts of beer while actually just sitting. Return hours later, looking very worked, half in the bag (dont let on if possible), and look like a champion...

[old goat]

my next tip is, next time make it seem a LOT harder, so the wife is super appreciative. Like huff and puff, pull all the drawers and stuff out, drag down to shop...bang a hammer and bitch every few minutes loudly...drink copious amounts of beer while actually just sitting. Return hours later, looking very worked, half in the bag (dont let on if possible), and look like a champion...

Replacing your disposal would do the trick.

[RootSkier]

Any plumbing repair, really.

[char_]

What do I need to know about low profile and flat roofs on 1960s era mid century modern homes?

These keep popping up in our price range, but I’m a little leery of getting involved with these roofing systems. What is available other than membrane type systems?

Anything else to know about homes built in the 60s?

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

What do I need to know about low profile and flat roofs on 1960s era mid century modern homes?

These keep popping up in our price range, but I’m a little leery of getting involved with these roofing systems. What is available other than membrane type systems?

Anything else to know about homes built in the 60s?

Where ya looking?

[powdrhound]

What do I need to know about low profile and flat roofs on 1960s era mid century modern homes?

These keep popping up in our price range, but I’m a little leery of getting involved with these roofing systems. What is available other than membrane type systems?

Anything else to know about homes built in the 60s?

I got tired of membrane leaks.
Tore it all off and added a real pitched roof. Finally got ceiling insulation, too.

[char_]

Where ya looking?

Portland, OR with all of the associated rain.

These just seem like a nightmare in this climate.

I got tired of membrane leaks.
Tore it all off and added a real pitched roof. Finally got ceiling insulation, too.

The location is good enough I might consider that....

[fatnslow]

Big difference between a true flat roof and low pitch roof. IF it's a true flat roof I would be very cautious and keep looking. I live in PDX and have a flat roof garage at a rental and it's kind of a pain to deal with. brother-In-law has a house in Seattle and their atomic ranch has a flat roof that has been replaced with a membrane system and it still requires periodic attention.

[char_]

Big difference between a true flat roof and low pitch roof. IF it's a true flat roof I would be very cautious and keep looking. I live in PDX and have a flat roof garage at a rental and it's kind of a pain to deal with. brother-In-law has a house in Seattle and their atomic ranch has a flat roof that has been replaced with a membrane system and it still requires periodic attention.

It has a ~2 in 12 over the main part of the house and the roof over the garage and a portion of the house is "flat". (Meaning is appears flat, but obviously has some pitch to it.) Both roofs have what to my eye appear to be a white torch down product on them laid down in roughly 4' overlapping strips.

I assume it will require regular trips up on to the roof to maintain drains and clear leaf litter. Do the torch down systems fail often?

Price is right and it's location is just about perfect for us and will have good resale. Would also make a good rental down the road.

[oftpiste]

I'm about to help my GF redo her interior moldings. Any of you pros have a trick to buying the right number of the right length pieces to minimize waste? Using 3 different sizes... base, horizontals above doors and windows, and verticals.

[dan_pdx]

Portland, OR with all of the associated rain.

These just seem like a nightmare in this climate.

My sis is in a Rummer home in Beaverton. I'd never heard of them until she bought the house - he was a developer who built a bunch of mid-century modern homes in the Portland suburbs in the 50s and 60s. It has a flat or possibly slightly pitched roof, and I've never heard from her that she's had issues with leaking. I'll ask her about required maintenance and if she's had issues.

[dan_pdx]

I'm about to help my GF redo her interior moldings. Any of you pros have a trick to buying the right number of the right length pieces to minimize waste? Using 3 different sizes... base, horizontals above doors and windows, and verticals.

This is definitely not a pro trick - I would measure all the runs of trim that I'm going to need, figure out what lengths are available at your lumberyard, and literally plan every cut out on paper. Then see where you can combine things differently to get an extra piece here and there out of the same length of trim. I would love to know a better way though.

[fatnslow]

It has a ~2 in 12 over the main part of the house and the roof over the garage and a portion of the house is "flat". (Meaning is appears flat, but obviously has some pitch to it.) Both roofs have what to my eye appear to be a white torch down product on them laid down in roughly 4' overlapping strips.

I assume it will require regular trips up on to the roof to maintain drains and clear leaf litter. Do the torch down systems fail often?

Price is right and it's location is just about perfect for us and will have good resale. Would also make a good rental down the road.

True torch down is pretty strong but it's the seams and flashing area that always leak. It can be a PITA and most roofers don't want to touch it for repairs or aren't very good at it. Repair itaels is not very difficult but finding the elak can be very difficult. It most likely will take multiple attempts and is messier than you can imagine. If you're not experienced or knowledgeable about flat roofs I would definitely get a roof inspection before pulling the trigger. If it's white it's probably not torch down but a recoat or glue down membrane. Asphalt torch down is usually black and might appear dark grey after weathering or it might just be asphalt roll roofing with adhesive
. It also might be coated over an existing substrate.
Coatings can be good but once you coat a roof you usually have to recoat every few years.
You might take a few photos and go into a roofing supply house and ask about it. The very least you will need to keep the roof is clean it ran and pay attention to the gutter system to prevent pooling.
If you have attic space under the roof I would inspect it very closely for stains, especially on the edges where flashing meets the roofing material and often leak.

[fatnslow]

I'm about to help my GF redo her interior moldings. Any of you pros have a trick to buying the right number of the right length pieces to minimize waste? Using 3 different sizes... base, horizontals above doors and windows, and verticals.

Only thing that works for me is make sure the place that sells the materials is close cause I know I'm going to fuck up and heading to buy more than I thought I would need.

[oftpiste]

Put a standing seam metal roof on it?

What do I need to know about low profile and flat roofs on 1960s era mid century modern homes?

These keep popping up in our price range, but I’m a little leery of getting involved with these roofing systems. What is available other than membrane type systems?

Anything else to know about homes built in the 60s?

[fastfred]

Only thing that works for me is make sure the place that sells the materials is close cause I know I'm going to fuck up and heading to buy more than I thought I would need.

I'm about to help my GF redo her interior moldings. Any of you pros have a trick to buying the right number of the right length pieces to minimize waste? Using 3 different sizes... base, horizontals above doors and windows, and verticals.

yeah don't over think it seriously do a take off of material LF of base, door legs, door header material, and windows then what ever else. And fatnslow said it perfectly so don't waste a trip or two back to the store you will fuck up and you will fuck up a bunch add a couple extra boards. Unless your doing some high end shit it's only a couple bucks for the extra wood. I rather throw out a bunch of extra trim than be one short I call that the 100.00 board by the time you realize your short go get it and screw around and so on you add it up and it costs a 100 bucks. We buy tens of thousands of dollars of trim a year so whatever mostly pine alder got a cherry job right now and it makes me sick but paint grade trim is in style yuk

Anything else to know about homes built in the 60s?

asbestos lead paint linoleum rotted out cast iron pipe crap electric that wasn't designed for 2021 electric consumption other than that I'd do it

[nickwm21]

When it comes time to replace the roof you could find a commercial roofer to put a seam welded PVC or TPO roof on it. A lot more expensive but they last longer and don’t leak.


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