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  1. #3976
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    Mar 2008
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    I was just putting some options out there.

    GFCI breakers are theoretically less prone to nuisance trips, and GFCI receptacles are unsightly (to some). Although, if there's anything else on the circuit then individual GFCIs would probably be better due to shared neutrals.

  2. #3977
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    Feb 2013
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    Since we are on a GFCI kick can I segue to a question about outlets with USB plugs built in? I'm considered installing a couple outlets with 2 USB plugs. Any downside to these things? They are about 20 bucks so a bit expensive. The only thing weird is the outlet is listed as ungrounded but I assume that is referring just to the USB portion and the regular outlet is still grounded.

    Thoughts?

  3. #3978
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    I like them for the convenience factor.

    As for the ungrounded part, if the "regular" AC plug-in part has three holes it's grounded. For the USB part, the 1, 2, and 3 standards are all 5v DC so that's not a lot of draw. That's why chargers that come with your devices don't have a third prong (aka ground). USB-C has a higher voltage, but I doubt they're grounded either for basically the same reason.

    Plus if you look at all of the small appliances in your home with two prong plugs that actually pull a fair amount of current like toasters, blenders, space heaters, etc, I wouldn't worry about the low power stuff.

  4. #3979
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    Feb 2013
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    Thanks Ted.

  5. #3980
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
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    Back when I bought the house I had a couple weeks to gut and remodel the only bathroom (shag carpet, squirrels and a 5' tall shower) before moving in. Did things quick to get it clean and usable and moved on to other issues. On the fly decisions back then left me needing a custom vanity to finish it off, finally built and plumbed it last month. Trying to find a suitable countertop now, ideally something quick, so I can just be done with it.

    Anyone use butcher block in a bathroom? Here's a pic I stole form HGTV, ignore the decor.

    Name:  Screenshot_20210501-181205.png
Views: 702
Size:  554.1 KB

    Vanity is the same color, walls are light green. Undermount sinks. Logic says I can seal them, and there's probably less germs in bathroom then in kitchen prep areas (where butcher block is used all the time) but still unsure.

    Plus is I'd be done in a week.

  6. #3981
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
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    Land of cheese
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    72
    Quote Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
    Back when I bought the house I had a couple weeks to gut and remodel the only bathroom (shag carpet, squirrels and a 5' tall shower) before moving in. Did things quick to get it clean and usable and moved on to other issues. On the fly decisions back then left me needing a custom vanity to finish it off, finally built and plumbed it last month. Trying to find a suitable countertop now, ideally something quick, so I can just be done with it.

    Anyone use butcher block in a bathroom? Here's a pic I stole form HGTV, ignore the decor.

    Name:  Screenshot_20210501-181205.png
Views: 702
Size:  554.1 KB

    Vanity is the same color, walls are light green. Undermount sinks. Logic says I can seal them, and there's probably less germs in bathroom then in kitchen prep areas (where butcher block is used all the time) but still unsure.

    Plus is I'd be done in a week.
    I’ve seen butcher block from IKEA used in a kitchen. I think it looked nice, but when it got wet it turned a dark color and had me concerned for its longevity. I don’t know if they were properly sealed, so that could’ve been the culprit.

    A bathroom should in theory see less moisture on the counters, so that might help in your favor. I would be sure follow whatever the butcher block manufacturer recommends for sealing.


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  7. #3982
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    2,287
    I've done butcher block in a bathroom for a friend. They just wanted me to do some scribing and install. They did the sealing/finish. As far as I know there were no problems.

    I think the biggest thing is definitely proper sealing. Also I would be a bit leary of doing an undermount as I feel like the interface at the cutout/sink is gonna see a lot of water but IDK. My buddy used a bowl on top style so you're only cutting out for drain and seems like it would minimize water interaction. I know its not everyone style but another quick/easy option.

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  8. #3983
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    Aug 2007
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    Fun day yesterday. I was power washing the rain gutters to prep them for primer/paint, I get around the back side of the house to discover the shitty hose will not screw into the power washer. Hose is frozen on the bib so I use a pipe wrench to get more turning leverage. Bib turns a little rather than the hose and KABOOM water is flowing down behind the stucco. Turn off the water and start opening up the stucco to discover the 70 year old galvanized pipe corroded through. Got under the house, cut the galvanized where it met copper pipe and capped it.
    So what should I do for the 30" of pipe I need to run up/replace for the hose bibb? What material will be easiest for this jong to install? Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  9. #3984
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    Sep 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    So what should I do for the 30" of pipe I need to run up/replace for the hose bibb? What material will be easiest for this jong to install? Thanks
    I’d go copper with shark bite connectors. Costs more but you don’t need much and no need to solder.

  10. #3985
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    Suckramento
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    21,467
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Fun day yesterday. I was power washing the rain gutters to prep them for primer/paint, I get around the back side of the house to discover the shitty hose will not screw into the power washer. Hose is frozen on the bib so I use a pipe wrench to get more turning leverage. Bib turns a little rather than the hose and KABOOM water is flowing down behind the stucco. Turn off the water and start opening up the stucco to discover the 70 year old galvanized pipe corroded through. Got under the house, cut the galvanized where it met copper pipe and capped it.
    So what should I do for the 30" of pipe I need to run up/replace for the hose bibb? What material will be easiest for this jong to install? Thanks
    And that’s why you use two pipe wrenches.
    Quando paramucho mi amore de felice carathon.
    Mundo paparazzi mi amore cicce verdi parasol.
    Questo abrigado tantamucho que canite carousel.


  11. #3986
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    Nov 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    I’d go copper with shark bite connectors. Costs more but you don’t need much and no need to solder.
    Would PEX tubing be a viable option?
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  12. #3987
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    Nov 2007
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    So. VT
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    Quote Originally Posted by spanky View Post
    Would PEX tubing be a viable option?
    I would say yes. And depending on how many fittings are needed buying the crimp tool is probably cheeper then shark bite.

    I don't trust them long term, moving pieces and an internal o-ring.

    Not much on a crimp fitting to fail.

  13. #3988
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    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
    I don't trust them long term.
    Copper it is
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  14. #3989
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Copper it is
    I don't trust the shark bite fittings.

    Pex is fine. Was actually crimping the rest of my dual vanity as I posted earlier.

  15. #3990
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    Apr 2012
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Copper it is
    Plumbers don’t use anything but Pex these days for new builds according to my plumber. They use a slightly different type that you use a special expansion gun for, but I think the crimp ones are great for home jobber stuff

    I have to fix a hose bib in my house (runs through the garage and froze last winter I think) and my plan is to do pex and shark bite but I’m going to leave an access panel at the fitting just in case I need to get to it again

  16. #3991
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    Oct 2007
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    +
    Last edited by BC13; 05-18-2021 at 07:25 AM.

  17. #3992
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    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
    Plumbers don’t use anything but Pex these days for new builds according to my plumber. They use a slightly different type that you use a special expansion gun for, but I think the crimp ones are great for home jobber stuff

    I have to fix a hose bib in my house (runs through the garage and froze last winter I think) and my plan is to do pex and shark bite but I’m going to leave an access panel at the fitting just in case I need to get to it again
    Late to this party and I’m sure it’s already fixed, but after a spectacularly unfortunate shark bite instance I’ll never trust another shark bite fitting long term. Temporary, sure….

    Anyways, copper/pex…. From what I understand (which isn’t much, mind you) preferred mix is copper from supply to utilities/boiler and a manifold, pex from the manifold to all the places in your house. Sweating copper isn’t actually that much harder than crimping pex, and the tools are cheaper. Plus you get to play with fire and silver solder.

    In this circumstance, that 30” of copper often comes attached to the hose bib with a convenient pex or sweat fitting on the end of it. Copper might be easier to fish through your wall, in either case.
    focus.

  18. #3993
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,757
    If you're joining copper to galvanized make sure to use a dielectric fitting.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  19. #3994
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    livin the dream
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    5,778
    Commercial plumbers use propress a lot. Which is a crimped copper fitting; ie best of both worlds. Expensive tool but worry free and quick. Maybe you could rent the tool?


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  20. #3995
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    Oct 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    Late to this party and I’m sure it’s already fixed, but after a spectacularly unfortunate shark bite instance I’ll never trust another shark bite fitting long term. Temporary, sure….
    .
    Same. A client had a fitting fail from a previous remodel years before that the grey didn't even know had had happened. It did about $800k in damage (gutted the recording studio I built). I will never put a shark bite fitting on a permanent joint, and especially never inside of a wall.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  21. #3996
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I have always soldered copper fittings you get to play with the fire so its fun but GF has all the pex tools so I tried them , seems like a no brainer except i have had a couple of leaking fittings

    the first time I cut the copper ring off and redid it with a new ring, this last time I rotated the tool 90degrees and recrimped which seemed to work, what is the proper thing to do ?

    she also has the tool for the other type for SS clamps, what are the pros & cons of either ??
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #3997
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I have always soldered copper fittings you get to play with the fire so its fun but GF has all the pex tools so I tried them , seems like a no brainer except i have had a couple of leaking fittings

    the first time I cut the copper ring off and redid it with a new ring, this last time I rotated the tool 90degrees and recrimped which seemed to work, what is the proper thing to do ?

    she also has the tool for the other type for SS clamps, what are the pros & cons of either ??
    Ring crimp tool sounds worn out or out of adjustment.

    I use the SS clamps. The tool was cheaper, less of a calibration concern and not going to corpse. If you've ever tried to remove a band you know it's a PITA and even once gone the PEX doesn't just pull off the fitting.

    I also limited where the fittings are. Only hidden fittings are at the shower, everything else is under a sink or in the basement with little to no damage potential.

    Re-plumbed my foreclosure over the past few years, copper wasn't gonna fit most places. New PVC drains and PEX throughout.

  23. #3998
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    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
    Ring crimp tool sounds worn out or out of adjustment.

    I use the SS clamps. The tool was cheaper, less of a calibration concern and not going to corpse. If you've ever tried to remove a band you know it's a PITA and even once gone the PEX doesn't just pull off the fitting.
    Yeah, never had a leaky pex joint. It happens, but shouldn’t be common. Something is wrong with your setup.

    I have taken off copper rings cuz I’m a cheap ass and sometimes want to reuse a fitting. Never had a problem getting it apart once the ring is outta the way.
    focus.

  24. #3999
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    11,758
    Just picked up $600 worth of wood. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Image1621386287.616951.jpg 
Views:	106 
Size:	1.40 MB 
ID:	375023


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  25. #4000
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    May 2007
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    Sandy, Utah
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    Quote Originally Posted by Art Shirk View Post
    Just picked up $600 worth of wood. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Image1621386287.616951.jpg 
Views:	106 
Size:	1.40 MB 
ID:	375023


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    Must be Bitcoin $$

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