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  1. #3826
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    It won't be any less mess or less of a problem if it has asbestos in it (but the risk of it being in there might be overstated, I've tested for asbestos three times and not found it, despite being in the epicenter of asbestos country).

    But what are you going to do exactly? You can't generally remove a ceiling and the insulation above it without a pretty comprehensive plan. And if you have that plan, I doubt you'd be asking this question.
    What were the ages of houses you tested?


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  2. #3827
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    He lives near libby. The place they harvested asbestos. In MT we assume anything we touch has it in it. Hopefully its siding(solid) and not insulation.

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  3. #3828
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    despite being in the epicenter of asbestos country
    Where do you live? Trying to figure out what asbestos country is... The shits been used for all of recorded history. Like every ancient civilization had varying uses for the material...


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  4. #3829
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    Quote Originally Posted by diggins1712 View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

    Everything else is the house has been nicely updated, so the popcorn sticks out like a sore thumb. Iím also 6í6 so itís harder to ignore.

    I had hoped drywalling over the popcorn would be the easiest solution but that sounds like it has its own unappealing issues.

    Iíve scraped off popcorn followed by skim coating and just skim coated over the existing popcorn. If I had to choose, it would be to skim coat and not remove the popcorn. The worst part is the sanding. I did find a guy on YT that claims he doesnít sand in between coats. He must be really good with a drywall knife.

    https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...DOItxexzM40BTc

    Taking the drywall out isnít really an option due to blown-in insulation and the large area (1700 sq ft).

    I think Iím going to see if I can find a drywall company that will skim coat over the existing popcorn before we move in. Iíd pay good money to not do it myself again!


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    My old house had a big vaulted popcorn ceiling with asbestos. We just drywalled over it (paid a pro) and worked perfectly. No problems at all. I suggest just drywall over it if not too cost prohibitive.


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  5. #3830
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47bp View Post
    My old house had a big vaulted popcorn ceiling with asbestos. We just drywalled over it (paid a pro) and worked perfectly. No problems at all. I suggest just drywall over it if not too cost prohibitive.


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    Thatís great to hear! Do you recall the price per sq ft?


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  6. #3831
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    Quote Originally Posted by diggins1712 View Post
    Thatís great to hear! Do you recall the price per sq ft?


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    I donít recall. It was definitely less sq ft than yours. I painted it myself but they did the drywall install and mud.




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  7. #3832
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    I was in a house earlier this week where they're doing an extensive remodel. They tested asbestos before they started, and the abatement alone cost close to $80,000. It's a pretty modest sized house too, around 2500 square feet.
    "Hakuna matata, motherfucker!"

  8. #3833
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    Aug 2020
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    Since we are in this topic...

    We are looking at purchasing a 100 year old house. Location is fantastic, good schools, etc.

    It probably hasnít been updated since the 70s or 80s and what has been done appears cosmetic. So I assume all of the original lead paint is on doors, walls, trim etc. In am also assuming there is asbestos.

    My thinking is that this turns every project into a a lead removal project with all of the accompanying challenges. I would want to DIY a significant amount of the work, like I have in other houses we have owned. Long term would want to remodel kitchen and bathrooms at a minimum and possibly add on down the road. Lead presence makes me think every project becomes a full bore down to the studs remodel just to get all of the lead out of the room I would be working in.

    How stupid is it to think we could live in the house with kids and do periodic projects?

    I have a general understanding of the need for a HEPA vac, respirators, walling off the work space and alternative access if possible.

  9. #3834
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    Since we are in this topic...

    We are looking at purchasing a 100 year old house. Location is fantastic, good schools, etc.

    It probably hasn’t been updated since the 70s or 80s and what has been done appears cosmetic. So I assume all of the original lead paint is on doors, walls, trim etc. In am also assuming there is asbestos.

    My thinking is that this turns every project into a a lead removal project with all of the accompanying challenges. I would want to DIY a significant amount of the work, like I have in other houses we have owned. Long term would want to remodel kitchen and bathrooms at a minimum and possibly add on down the road. Lead presence makes me think every project becomes a full bore down to the studs remodel just to get all of the lead out of the room I would be working in.

    How stupid is it to think we could live in the house with kids and do periodic projects?

    I have a general understanding of the need for a HEPA vac, respirators, walling off the work space and alternative access if possible.
    how old are the kids? I didnt think lead paint was a real problem unless you like eat or breathe in dust....sealed under a couple good coats of oil based primer and top coats? if kids are still chomping on window sills and shit you should consider removal. Otherwise i'd leave it. Pretty sure encapsulation was accepted. When you decide to renovate i expect bigger issues.
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  10. #3835
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    how old are the kids? I didnt think lead paint was a real problem unless you like eat or breathe in dust....sealed under a couple good coats of oil based primer and top coats? if kids are still chomping on window sills and shit you should consider removal. Otherwise i'd leave it. Pretty sure encapsulation was accepted. When you decide to renovate i expect bigger issues.
    Oldest is 4.

    This mostly revolves around turning my wifeís radar into this issue.

    I had sort of adopted a personal policy of not having the kids living in a house older than the 1980s but this is difficult to pass up.

    Edit- typical presale cosmetic painting happened recently. Coat of primer and two coats latex paint.

  11. #3836
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    The choice is yours. You can pay an environmental expert to tell you what you don't want to know about asbestos, mold, lead etc. or you can just handymask the walls, plastic the floors, wet it down, scrape it, bundle it all up, take it to the dump and profit.

    Work around enough remediation jobs and your realize that the only thing getting remediated is your check book.

  12. #3837
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    Oldest is 4.

    This mostly revolves around turning my wife’s radar into this issue.

    I had sort of adopted a personal policy of not having the kids living in a house older than the 1980s but this is difficult to pass up.

    Edit- typical presale cosmetic painting happened recently. Coat of primer and two coats latex paint.
    here ya go...

    Since i guess my old techniques for encapsulation are outdated...its for sure a thing, but they make special products now. Worth taking a look if not interesting in opening the can of worms right away.

    https://jselabs.com/blog/painting-ov...to%20the%20air.
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

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  13. #3838
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    The amount of times your 4 year old has been in a room with asbestos material or lead paint probably counts in the thousands if not hundreds of thousands... if itís not disturbed, itís a non issue.

    The mindset of demoing down to the studs to remove all hazmat from a room when you start a project is overkill. You want to get in the mindset of trying to disturb as little of the material as possible...


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  14. #3839
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    The choice is yours. You can pay an environmental expert to tell you what you don't want to know about asbestos, mold, lead etc. or you can just handymask the walls, plastic the floors, wet it down, scrape it, bundle it all up, take it to the dump and profit.

    Work around enough remediation jobs and your realize that the only thing getting remediated is your check book.
    I sort of realized this when I watched asbestos tile get remediated at my last job.

    It doesnít seem complicated and gives me an excuse to demo to the studs, move electrical and plumbing anyways.

    On the other hand, kids brains.

  15. #3840
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    The amount of times your 4 year old has been in a room with asbestos material or lead paint probably counts in the thousands if not hundreds of thousands... if itís not disturbed, itís a non issue.

    The mindset of demoing down to the studs to remove all hazmat from a room when you start a project is overkill. You want to get in the mindset of trying to disturb as little of the material as possible...


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    Thinking more along the lines of a bathroom or kitchen remodel where you might screw around with saving some stuff for money reasons. Seems easier to just demo it all once, clean up well and move on with the project not having to disturb it again.

    Iím not talking about demoing a room to replace a light fixture.

  16. #3841
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    Feb 2008
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    This stuff costs an arm and a leg, but might be of interest: https://www.leadoutpaintstripper.com/ I'm with Foggy Goggles though, not unreasonable to DIY stuff. Given the house you're looking at has been painted recently (and probably multiple times since we stopped using lead paint), there might not be much or any lead paint exposed. Can you get in there with some lead paint test kits and test things at toddler height?

    The houses in my neighborhood were build from around 1900 - 1920, lots of DIY work being done around here, and none of my neighbors have obvious brain damage.

  17. #3842
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    The amount of times your 4 year old has been in a room with asbestos material or lead paint probably counts in the thousands if not hundreds of thousands... if itís not disturbed, itís a non issue.




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    Probably not. Simple math problem and have lived in newer houses post lead and asbestos up until now.

    365x4....

  18. #3843
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    and for the record. Asbestos removal isnt all that hard...the disposal can be a bitch though...
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

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  19. #3844
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    Feb 2008
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    Anyone have experience installing an RO water filter? Is it DIY-friendly? Our countertop is 16 gauge stainless, who can I get to come in and put a hole in it for a filtered water dispenser?

  20. #3845
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    You can cut it with a hole cutter. Pretty easy install, I did mine. Apec system, needed it for high nitrates.

  21. #3846
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    The amount of times your 4 year old has been in a room with asbestos material or lead paint probably counts in the thousands if not hundreds of thousands... if it’s not disturbed, it’s a non issue.

    The mindset of demoing down to the studs to remove all hazmat from a room when you start a project is overkill. You want to get in the mindset of trying to disturb as little of the material as possible...


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    Yup. Don't disturb the hazmat and it won't disturb you. Paint over the lead paint (scrape with a scraper and collect every bit that is loose where you must. Don't use anything that would create dust like a sander or wire wheel), floor over the asbestos tile/linoleum, don't break the asbestos vent pipes, and just wet scrape the popcorn ceiling. The key is to completely avoid any dust.

    Lead pipes though... I'd get that shit replaced as you don't control what is in the water that could disturb that. Pex is stupid easy and cheap to run.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  22. #3847
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    Anyone have experience installing an RO water filter? Is it DIY-friendly? Our countertop is 16 gauge stainless, who can I get to come in and put a hole in it for a filtered water dispenser?
    Drill a small hole from the top in the center. Small hole saw or big drill bit from the bottom to remove the underlayer centered on your top hole (assuming it has a plywood underlayer where you're looking to install). Take some tin snips or a dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the hole radially so you can fold the stainless tabs down into the hole. Go slow and don't cut too far. You shouldn't need a big hole for a water spigot, 3/4--1" should do it.

    Plumbing will be more complicated depending on your circumstance and if you want the RO just on the water spigot, or on the main faucet and spigot. Maybe it's just as simple as connecting a couple braided stainless lines. Maybe you need to install a tee at the wall valve. Maybe you're and installing a check valve and sweating copper. If you're good with the plumbing side, you'll be fine with the hole cutting.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  23. #3848
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    Feb 2008
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    I needed to expand an existing hole in the countertop for a new soap dispenser last year and it was a real bitch. I used this step drill bit and salad oil / dish soap as a cutting liquid. It was all I could do to expand the hole by 1/4" and it sucked rocks. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but drilling a new hole feels semi-impossible; tin snips would definitely not work on this counter (dremel might though), and I'm uncertain about being able to fold back some tiny tabs that are only a little over 1/4" long. Bandini, you think a hole cutter would do the trick? I have a good plumber, but even if I can get him to come over for something small like this, I'm pretty sure he won't want to mess with making the hole in the countertop.

  24. #3849
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    Yes, a hole cutter will work.

  25. #3850
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    I needed to expand an existing hole in the countertop for a new soap dispenser last year and it was a real bitch. I used this step drill bit and salad oil / dish soap as a cutting liquid. It was all I could do to expand the hole by 1/4" and it sucked rocks. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but drilling a new hole feels semi-impossible; tin snips would definitely not work on this counter (dremel might though), and I'm uncertain about being able to fold back some tiny tabs that are only a little over 1/4" long. Bandini, you think a hole cutter would do the trick? I have a good plumber, but even if I can get him to come over for something small like this, I'm pretty sure he won't want to mess with making the hole in the countertop.
    I'd stick with that step drill over a hole cutter for going through the stainless. Most hole saws aren't great for metals, and the ones that are cost $$$.

    For drilling, just a drop of oil, keep the rpm's low, as much pressure as you can bear (get on top of the counter and bear down), and watch the chips coming off that they're not discoloring from heat (bluish tint). Stainless hardens with heat, so high RPM's work against you, and I'd bet that's what you did before. Lots of RPM's and not enough push. Go as slow as you can make that drill go and put your weight into it. If you have a 2 speed drill, put it in slow mode. Ideally, you'll get ribbons of steel coming off the bit, not tiny chips.

    https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/kno...tainless-steel

    And fwiw, I've cut through a kryptonite U lock with a dremel and 8 cutoff wheels. 16 ga will bend with sufficient percussive persuasion and backing, but you'd probably be just as well off drilling it and installing a trim plate on your spigot.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

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