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  1. #2051
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    Mar 2006
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Doesn’t look crazy hard for good plumber/floor guy.


  2. #2052
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    Dec 2009
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    ^that stuff is wicked pricey

  3. #2053
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    Sep 2001
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    The Cone of Uncertainty
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    We have electric radiant heat in the bathroom, it works very well and is a simple way to go. It's on a timer so it's not going all day and it heats up fast. It'd be expensive to heat bigger areas though I imagine

  4. #2054
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    Sep 2007
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    tetons
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    Day 2.5: I think we're fully committed at this point

    Attachment 332053
    it’s got that nice open feel everyone is looking for these days

    i’m impressed that you have everything dialed with your choices too
    maybe I’m late to the party but what are you doing with that space?
    keep us posted on the hgtv progress
    skid luxury

  5. #2055
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    The land of Genesee Cream Ale and homemade pierogies!
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    2,107
    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    I've used warm board on a few of projects ...
    .
    .
    .
    If your contractor doesn't have experience with it, make sure they understand how to read the plans and install the panels properly. My guys had to restart after screwing up the starter panels. Luckily I was there to read the plans for them.
    I'd expand this advice to cover any radiant heat system, for both design and installation. Specifications rule everything IME. If your GC/architects/installers/subcontractors can't follow the specs or even worse read the specs but flub up one part of the whole system you risk the entire system will never work right.

    To cherry pick one example wood flooring manufacturers and tile (and therefore grout) manufacturers will specify specific flooring types as compatible or not compatible with radiant floor heat. Yet I've seen flooring and tile guys -- even some highly experiences ones -- say, nah, that doesn't matter. That a red flag in my experience, Mr. Tile contractor may not be around in five or ten years but the manufacturer sure will, and if you have some problem and go to the manufacturer you'll hear "Tile type X and grout type Y are not compatible with radiant heating. Follow the specs next time."
    Last edited by Nobody Famous; 06-20-2020 at 06:51 AM. Reason: piece > part of the whole system
    “The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”

    - Winston Churchill, paraphrased.

  6. #2056
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    8,716
    ^^^Yep. There is a function in contracting (legally and practically) called "The specifier". I always look at the manufacturer specifications for anything. If the homo or general wants me to do something against the manufacturer specifications that have to sign on as "the specifier" and I'm off the hook. I've seen a bunch of problems and lawsuits related to this.

  7. #2057
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    Mar 2006
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    19,814
    Quote Originally Posted by skiballs View Post
    ^that stuff is wicked pricey
    Warmboard panels are about $7 per square foot which is potentially about ½ the price of a completed radiant system.

    I suppose with installation and flooring $30 a sf is reasonable.

  8. #2058
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by babybear View Post
    it’s got that nice open feel everyone is looking for these days

    i’m impressed that you have everything dialed with your choices too
    maybe I’m late to the party but what are you doing with that space?
    keep us posted on the hgtv progress
    I'm a heavy civil contractor, so I'm thoroughly aware of what disrupts projects. Mostly Owners not having their job figured out by the time we start building, which then allows the contractor to rail away with change orders and delays. A large portion of my job is related to dealing with changes on projects with government agencies, so I know the pitfalls. Armed with this information, we've been figuring this project out for well over a year now. Construction is just the home stretch and my contractor is pretty buried in information and I keep hammering him with 'What'd I miss? What else do I need to finish selecting?"

    As for what's happening, from approximately the same angle

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    2nd floor master suite and loft office area ~650 sqft
    garage pushes forward 5' to create an enclosed laundry room/pantry
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  9. #2059
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    Oct 2003
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    In Your Wife
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    8,291
    Woah, your P&Z department allows the garage to project forward of the front door? That's fallen out of favor in a lot of places.

    The place is going to look great when it's done.

  10. #2060
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    Woah, your P&Z department allows the garage to project forward of the front door? That's fallen out of favor in a lot of places.

    The place is going to look great when it's done.
    That's fairly standard in CA. Hell, I can't think of a house anyone in my family has lived in in CA didn't have the garage door front and center.

    And this is a 1960's lower to mid tier track home. No CCR's or HOA's here. As long as I don't encroach on the city governed setbacks for fire safety, I'm free to do as I please

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  11. #2061
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    Oct 2003
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    Deck sealing question: I was going to scrub the deck with a cleaner prior to application of sealer (Flood CWF-UV clear btw). https://www.flood.com/staining-advic...uv-application

    Is 24 hours long enough for the deck to dry before sealing? And how long do you need after applying a sealer like that before it can get rained on? How long before you can walk on it?

    Weather should be 50 to 80, mostly sunny but chance of afternoon thunderstorms. Trying to juggle the timing.

  12. #2062
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    Nov 2005
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    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    13,779
    I would let it dry for more than a day after cleaning...but I would also never put finish on a deck.

  13. #2063
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    12,610
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Deck sealing question: I was going to scrub the deck with a cleaner prior to application of sealer (Flood CWF-UV clear btw). https://www.flood.com/staining-advic...uv-application

    Is 24 hours long enough for the deck to dry before sealing? And how long do you need after applying a sealer like that before it can get rained on? How long before you can walk on it?

    Weather should be 50 to 80, mostly sunny but chance of afternoon thunderstorms. Trying to juggle the timing.

    Isn't any of this information listed on the packaging?

    But in UT, 24 hours is probably plenty of time for drying. Also, it probably only needs a few hrs of drying before rain. Less if it is in the sun of course. It isn't rocket surgery. Our deck is full in the sun all day and the stain dried really fast for us. Put 3 coats down after completely stripping and sanding the whole thing. It sucked.

  14. #2064
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    I would let it dry for more than a day after cleaning...but I would also never put finish on a deck.
    School me, I'm a deck neophyte. Wood is currently pooling/soaking up water. I don't want stain, I just want to protect the wood from further degradation. Better option?

  15. #2065
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    Nov 2005
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    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    What kind of wood is it? Pics?

  16. #2066
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    What kind of wood is it? Pics?
    Ha, like I said, total deck neophyte, wood is of unknown (to me) type. Looks like regular old wood. I'm not currently there, I'll see what photos I can dig up.

    Edit: does this photo of my toe and a moose help? Small area.

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  17. #2067
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    tetons
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    I'm a heavy civil contractor, so I'm thoroughly aware of what disrupts projects. Mostly Owners not having their job figured out by the time we start building, which then allows the contractor to rail away with change orders and delays. A large portion of my job is related to dealing with changes on projects with government agencies, so I know the pitfalls.
    Ah makes sense.....you’re knee deep in that world.

    My house is a garage first style too. It took a sec for it to grow on me but now I can appreciate it and like having the living spaces set further back
    Nice looking place!
    skid luxury

  18. #2068
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    Nov 2005
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    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Ha, like I said, total deck neophyte, wood is of unknown (to me) type. Looks like regular old wood. I'm not currently there, I'll see what photos I can dig up.

    Edit: does this photo of my toe and a moose help? Small area.

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    Looks like cedar. I personally wouldn't put any finish on it, but have fun.

  19. #2069
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Looks like cedar. I personally wouldn't put any finish on it, but have fun.
    I’m definitely on board with not doing anything to it if that’s best. It is starting to splinter in some areas and the water is soaking in. I thought those were signs to put on a coat of sealer?

  20. #2070
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    Nov 2005
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    Just sand down the splintery parts. You can rent a deck sander if you want to take the whole thing down to new wood. Cedar decks in the arid west will last decades and decades, and if you hit them with a light sanding, they will look brand new. You will never prevent water soaking in unless you want to create a never-ending maintenance nightmare. F that.

  21. #2071
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    Aug 2007
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    Bottom feeding
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Just sand down the splintery parts. You can rent a deck sander if you want to take the whole thing down to new wood. Cedar decks in the arid west will last decades and decades, and if you hit them with a light sanding, they will look brand new. You will never prevent water soaking in unless you want to create a never-ending maintenance nightmare. F that.
    My daughter got a splinter from our never maintained perfect 2X4 deck, and so there was a call from the ladies section of the household to seal the deck. I said: "Pick up your feet when you walk." That went over better than I thought it would, actually. Anyway, If I want to sand it all down, I assume I have to pound down the ~1,000,000 nails and screw down the 500,000 screws prior. Right?
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  22. #2072
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Just sand down the splintery parts. You can rent a deck sander if you want to take the whole thing down to new wood. Cedar decks in the arid west will last decades and decades, and if you hit them with a light sanding, they will look brand new. You will never prevent water soaking in unless you want to create a never-ending maintenance nightmare. F that.
    I like this plan.

    The splinters don't really bother me, because I am never barefoot, but my wife complained about it. Splinters are largish, seems like I'd have to take off a bit to get them? I'm not sure that alone is worth it.

  23. #2073
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    Nov 2005
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    Yeah, probably.

  24. #2074
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    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    I like this plan.

    The splinters don't really bother me, because I am never barefoot, but my wife complained about it. Splinters are largish, seems like I'd have to take off a bit to get them? I'm not sure that alone is worth it.
    Know your splinters - if they are large, it could be a condition called shelling, where the growth rings start separating, and hence pose a great hazard to bare feet. No amount of sanding will correct that, you'll need to remove and flip the board over, or replace it - "bark side up".

  25. #2075
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    Woah, your P&Z department allows the garage to project forward of the front door? That's fallen out of favor in a lot of places.

    The place is going to look great when it's done.
    That living spaces in front, garages back thing came out of the Ahwahnee Principles. Some communities push it harder than others. In my home builder days, we did about 80 units in a heavy AP master planned community. Lot's of alley loaded garages. All street facing garages set back with long driveways. The idea is to get the living areas out front- "eyes on the street" for a safety and to create a community feel.

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