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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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06-19-2020, 04:17 PM #2051
Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
Doesn’t look crazy hard for good plumber/floor guy.
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06-19-2020, 04:24 PM #2052
^that stuff is wicked pricey
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06-19-2020, 04:34 PM #2053Funky But Chic
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We have electric radiant heat in the bathroom, it works very well and is a simple way to go. It's on a timer so it's not going all day and it heats up fast. It'd be expensive to heat bigger areas though I imagine
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06-19-2020, 05:49 PM #2054
Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
skid luxury
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06-19-2020, 08:18 PM #2055
I'd expand this advice to cover any radiant heat system, for both design and installation. Specifications rule everything IME. If your GC/architects/installers/subcontractors can't follow the specs or even worse read the specs but flub up one part of the whole system you risk the entire system will never work right.
To cherry pick one example wood flooring manufacturers and tile (and therefore grout) manufacturers will specify specific flooring types as compatible or not compatible with radiant floor heat. Yet I've seen flooring and tile guys -- even some highly experiences ones -- say, nah, that doesn't matter. That a red flag in my experience, Mr. Tile contractor may not be around in five or ten years but the manufacturer sure will, and if you have some problem and go to the manufacturer you'll hear "Tile type X and grout type Y are not compatible with radiant heating. Follow the specs next time."Last edited by Nobody Famous; 06-20-2020 at 06:51 AM. Reason: piece > part of the whole system
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
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06-19-2020, 08:39 PM #2056
^^^Yep. There is a function in contracting (legally and practically) called "The specifier". I always look at the manufacturer specifications for anything. If the homo or general wants me to do something against the manufacturer specifications that have to sign on as "the specifier" and I'm off the hook. I've seen a bunch of problems and lawsuits related to this.
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06-19-2020, 08:47 PM #2057
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06-20-2020, 10:25 PM #2058
I'm a heavy civil contractor, so I'm thoroughly aware of what disrupts projects. Mostly Owners not having their job figured out by the time we start building, which then allows the contractor to rail away with change orders and delays. A large portion of my job is related to dealing with changes on projects with government agencies, so I know the pitfalls. Armed with this information, we've been figuring this project out for well over a year now. Construction is just the home stretch and my contractor is pretty buried in information and I keep hammering him with 'What'd I miss? What else do I need to finish selecting?"
As for what's happening, from approximately the same angle
2nd floor master suite and loft office area ~650 sqft
garage pushes forward 5' to create an enclosed laundry room/pantryI've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.
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06-21-2020, 07:47 AM #2059Banned
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Woah, your P&Z department allows the garage to project forward of the front door? That's fallen out of favor in a lot of places.
The place is going to look great when it's done.
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06-21-2020, 03:33 PM #2060
That's fairly standard in CA. Hell, I can't think of a house anyone in my family has lived in in CA didn't have the garage door front and center.
And this is a 1960's lower to mid tier track home. No CCR's or HOA's here. As long as I don't encroach on the city governed setbacks for fire safety, I'm free to do as I please
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using TGR Forums mobile appI've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.
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06-22-2020, 01:12 PM #2061User
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Deck sealing question: I was going to scrub the deck with a cleaner prior to application of sealer (Flood CWF-UV clear btw). https://www.flood.com/staining-advic...uv-application
Is 24 hours long enough for the deck to dry before sealing? And how long do you need after applying a sealer like that before it can get rained on? How long before you can walk on it?
Weather should be 50 to 80, mostly sunny but chance of afternoon thunderstorms. Trying to juggle the timing.
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06-22-2020, 02:13 PM #2062
I would let it dry for more than a day after cleaning...but I would also never put finish on a deck.
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06-22-2020, 02:31 PM #2063Registered User
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Isn't any of this information listed on the packaging?
But in UT, 24 hours is probably plenty of time for drying. Also, it probably only needs a few hrs of drying before rain. Less if it is in the sun of course. It isn't rocket surgery. Our deck is full in the sun all day and the stain dried really fast for us. Put 3 coats down after completely stripping and sanding the whole thing. It sucked.
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06-22-2020, 03:06 PM #2064User
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06-22-2020, 03:12 PM #2065
What kind of wood is it? Pics?
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06-22-2020, 03:29 PM #2066User
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06-22-2020, 05:58 PM #2067
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06-23-2020, 09:17 AM #2068
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06-23-2020, 10:15 AM #2069User
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06-23-2020, 10:52 AM #2070
Just sand down the splintery parts. You can rent a deck sander if you want to take the whole thing down to new wood. Cedar decks in the arid west will last decades and decades, and if you hit them with a light sanding, they will look brand new. You will never prevent water soaking in unless you want to create a never-ending maintenance nightmare. F that.
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06-23-2020, 11:02 AM #2071
My daughter got a splinter from our never maintained perfect 2X4 deck, and so there was a call from the ladies section of the household to seal the deck. I said: "Pick up your feet when you walk." That went over better than I thought it would, actually. Anyway, If I want to sand it all down, I assume I have to pound down the ~1,000,000 nails and screw down the 500,000 screws prior. Right?
Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
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06-23-2020, 11:17 AM #2072User
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06-23-2020, 11:17 AM #2073
Yeah, probably.
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06-23-2020, 12:19 PM #2074
Know your splinters - if they are large, it could be a condition called shelling, where the growth rings start separating, and hence pose a great hazard to bare feet. No amount of sanding will correct that, you'll need to remove and flip the board over, or replace it - "bark side up".
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06-23-2020, 01:01 PM #2075
That living spaces in front, garages back thing came out of the Ahwahnee Principles. Some communities push it harder than others. In my home builder days, we did about 80 units in a heavy AP master planned community. Lot's of alley loaded garages. All street facing garages set back with long driveways. The idea is to get the living areas out front- "eyes on the street" for a safety and to create a community feel.
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