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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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11-27-2022, 11:16 PM #7676
Yes, you’re overreacting.
If you wanted it done right you would have gotten at least three bids, checked that they were licensed, insured, and had references and pulled permits.
It would have been a battle to really keep this super dry on a slab bigger than your footprint. A treated sill plate and flashing would help, but still wouldn’t be a water tight barrier. I would consider it “semi-dry” or “semi-wet” depending on how you feel about either term and let it go. All that extra to keep it from smelling musty? Probably won’t happen anyways with the door opening and closing. It’s under the eaves so it’s not going to just straight up pool water.
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11-28-2022, 06:48 AM #7677
Not an overreaction.
I assume the sill plates for the walls are PT.
OSB touching the bluestone is wrong.
The door jamb is tough. Better doors don’t have shit pine wood to the ground.
Assuming you have the PT. At this point I would use a fein tool to undercut the osb and jamb and then caulk it with a polyurethane sealant.
Flashing seems like overkill.
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11-28-2022, 01:53 PM #7678
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11-28-2022, 03:09 PM #7679
a good remodel framer could cut the sill plate & replace it without removing the wall
i'd want to have a PT sill plate -- do it over now before you have to do it over later
on the horizontal surface, there likely should be an L-flashing tight to the conc -- the horizontal leg can be long. Not sure it's necessary to seal under the flashing as long as there's slope to the concrete away from the wall & there's some kind of eave. Tho it wouldn't hurt to isolate the wood from the exposed crevice with a continuous bead of sealant. You can hold the siding & sheathing up an inch from there.
i assume you will have an alum threshold for this door. You can set the threshold in epoxy if you want to create a water dam at that location. An interior door frame is asking for problems.
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11-28-2022, 03:27 PM #7680Registered User
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Thanks all. The sills are PT, but the OSB and trim that are currently on the concrete is not. My worry is water wicking into that wood over and over- in our weather the concrete porch gets very damp even with the overhang. Never pools, but often looks wet for days.
Door threshold is aluminum. It is an outswing door.Last edited by Garbowski; 11-28-2022 at 03:47 PM.
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11-28-2022, 04:32 PM #7681
Exactly. It’s the wicking.
I had cedar sidewall shingles being done while I was at work. The moron rested the first course right on the trim flashing. I was tempted to make him tear it all off but he had done two walls already.
And it does wick.
I think the undercut and poly sealant will be fine for quite a while.
Even if you used angle flashing water can weep up anyways if the wood rests on the flashing.
I hope he painted the cut ends of the trim.
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11-28-2022, 05:21 PM #7682
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12-04-2022, 11:51 AM #7683
Anybody use a 3rd party smart thermostat with a minisplit setup? Mysa, Flair, Sensibo, Cielo?
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12-04-2022, 05:02 PM #7684Registered User
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12-04-2022, 08:24 PM #7685
Excellent, glad it helped.
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12-07-2022, 05:29 AM #7686Registered User
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12-07-2022, 04:44 PM #7687Registered User
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I have an old house with 2 rooms that are ~6.5' x 9.5' and right now they're not serving much of a purpose. Per code a bedroom has to be 70 sf with no dimension smaller than 7'. If I could turn either (or both) rooms into a bedroom by expanding the room out 6"-1' that would be a huge value add to the house (currently 1bed/1bath). What I probably need to do is move the wall but that is no small feat (one is probably impossible as its a load bearing wall). I'm probably asking for the impossible but anyone have some creative ideas here?
For people who are in the rental business, is it a big deal if the bedrooms aren't to size code? I know I'll need to update the windows
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12-07-2022, 04:51 PM #7688
Are they adjacent? Share the same load bearing wall?
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12-07-2022, 06:04 PM #7689Registered User
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Code is local, and concern levels vary. There may also be liability concerns for you, but the last rental I was living in had a very much not-code-compliant bedroom in the basement. I was perfectly good with that for the stupid low rent, but I'm guessing the landlord could've gotten in trouble had I died in a fire.
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12-07-2022, 06:51 PM #7690
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12-07-2022, 07:08 PM #7691Registered User
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I don’t think there’d be liability cause fire escape would be kosher so shouldn’t affect fire deaths. The only people that I feel like could get upset would be the City. I’ll have to take a look through the local code.
No, unfortunately not, opposite sides of the house.
Yeah, don’t want to do that due to the layout of the house. Bedroom #2 has that option but I’d be moving a wall for 1’ of extra space which seems like a lot of work for not much pay.
Unfortunately I think I’m asking for some black magic
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12-07-2022, 07:46 PM #7692
You just have 2 non-conforming bedrooms. Nothing more nothing less. Some jurisdictions have regulations regarding egress (window usually) for rentals but most do not.
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12-07-2022, 09:12 PM #7693
Don't you have to have a closet to call it a bedroom. At least some places.
I don't see how you'd get in trouble with the city as long as you inform potential renters that they are slightly undersized and the windows are legit-sized egress windows. I would want egress windows whether code requires or not.
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12-08-2022, 09:33 AM #7694Registered User
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One room actually has a half finished closet. Would need to finish it but it is there.
I think here is the answer. I reached out to a realtor friend last night and she said the same thing. Just advertise an non-egress bedroom and you are good to go. But you can still count them in your bedroom count.
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12-08-2022, 10:27 AM #7695Registered User
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Storm door hardware: anyone have a good source on decent quality closers, handles, and hinges? Seems the box store and even local supply house products only last a few years. Closers are the worst but I’ve had finish fail on handles and hinge pins that keep falling out. Willing to spend more for decent quality. Storm doors are wooden with full length glass for winter and screens for summer.
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12-08-2022, 11:33 AM #7696Registered User
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Why advertise it as non-egress? That sounds dangerous and I though you mentioned fire escape/egress. If you are just renting it, you may be able to call it whatever- many of the rules apply to selling. Large den, nonconforming bedroom that can fit queen bed, etc. all sound better than death trap. Just call it a small bedroom and you can discuss it when the people show up to look.
I think all the 'must have closet' rules are either urban legend or particular to local MLS which you don't have to use. It varies by locality, but the rules for a bedroom are usually on size, egress, and some sort of temperature regulation. But having something in there to put your things will help rent it.
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12-08-2022, 11:55 AM #7697
Just call them bonus rooms
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12-08-2022, 12:47 PM #7698
Needs to have a closet for a Realtor to call it a bedroom….
Needs to have a 20”x24” window per IBC for a fire marshal, building official, lawyer, or insurance company to call it a bedroom….
Calling something a “non-egress bedroom” seems like a great way to sound stupid to the wrong people.
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12-08-2022, 12:48 PM #7699Registered User
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It's a 1bed/1bath, if I could call it a 2bed/1bath, it has a much better value.
I misspoke, I meant nonconforming. I think this is the route I will go.
It does have temp regulation, will need to upgrade the window, but it won't meet size regulation by a foot.
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12-08-2022, 12:54 PM #7700Registered User
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What is your short term goal ? If your trying to get max rent make sure you have windows large enough to escape during a fire and advertise as 1/1 plus 2 bonus rooms and let the renter(s) figure it out. It all depends on your local rental market on how desperate people are for housing. Long term value probably would makes sense to add a legal second bedroom by moving a wall and bracing in a header creatively(legally).
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