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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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12-02-2019, 12:44 PM #1351
the standard has changed to start coupling HRV's & ERV's with the forced air systems (some states are starting to require them)
they temper temp for fresh air (& humidity in case of ERV)
please note: not all hvac contractors are up on best practices; so, what's "common" may be at odds with what is a better system. And, money isn't unimportant...so that always plays a factor
best practices for energy & comfort don't necessarily align with a financial payback, but I suspect pricing will start to align as it gets more common
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12-02-2019, 12:47 PM #1352
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12-02-2019, 12:50 PM #1353
I’ll put that in the agenda for the 37th home improvement rabbit hole.
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12-02-2019, 12:57 PM #1354Registered User
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12-02-2019, 01:05 PM #1355
Thanks Fred. Chinese buffet on me for a more through review next time you’re in town.
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12-02-2019, 01:08 PM #1356Registered User
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12-02-2019, 02:19 PM #1357Funky But Chic
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fatfred?
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12-02-2019, 02:52 PM #1358
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12-02-2019, 02:53 PM #1359Banned
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12-02-2019, 04:10 PM #1360
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12-02-2019, 08:49 PM #1361Air leaks cure a lot of mistakes.
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12-03-2019, 11:59 AM #1362
When we added a second story to our house in Sacramento 30 years ago there was no reasonable way to ducts from the asbestos covered 1930's gravity furnace in the basement up to the second floor, so we added a furnace and AC in the attic. However, the attic is very well ventilated so no problems since.
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12-03-2019, 12:25 PM #1363Funky But Chic
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If you make the attic part of the insulated/conditioned space then it's no problem putting a furnace/air handler/whatever up there. The problems come when you put that stuff in a "regular" attic. This video has been played here before, and it's a fairly extreme example, but it gives the idea:
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12-03-2019, 02:12 PM #1364Banned
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Now, it is a very mild climate, but we see furnaces installed in unconditioned space all the time in western Washington, in retrofits and in new construction. I would say the majority of new homes being built in my jurisdiction today have their furnaces located in an unconditioned attic. Garage installs are also relatively common.
There's also only one builder I can think of in town who doesn't have most of their ducting in unconditioned space too attic and crawler). Granted, it is all insulated, but still. Code compliant is not synonymous with best practices.
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12-03-2019, 02:55 PM #1365
We're looking at building a garage that's attached to the side of our existing house. Door from the garage would enter into the basement of the existing house, which means the 4' foundation wall (standard poured concrete) in the house will need to have an opening cut through it. This is all above grade, so should be relatively straightforward.
My question: the ideal location for that door is at the corner of the existing house. So the cut through the foundation wall would be very near the corner of the foundation. Is that an issue? Meaning, does the foundation need the support afforded by the corner, or is that not a big deal?
All of this work would be done by someone who knows what they're doing. I'm just figuring out the layout and trying to get an idea of what's easy, and what's going to be an expensive hassle.
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12-03-2019, 03:11 PM #1366
It's probably fine.
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12-03-2019, 03:23 PM #1367
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12-03-2019, 03:32 PM #1368
Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
Typically the corners of any foundation are tied together with reinforcing; 90s at lap splice length, for lateral load (seismic, wind, etc..)
It’s probably fine to cut the hole.
An SE would tell you it’s not.
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12-03-2019, 03:38 PM #1369Banned
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Full basement or crawl space? Can you see your sill plate and rim board from inside the basement if you pull back the insulation in that corner? Which way do the joists run? Are the walls above gable-end or eave-side? When was the house built? How many stories? Stick-built or timber frame/post-and-beam?
It's not something that can ascertained with total confidence based on the info you provided, but if you can get a good look at the rim in that corner, you should be able to tell if there are any point loads that are carried down to the foundation in that area, as there should be solid blocking down to the sill plate at those locations. That will give you some idea about the complexity of transferring the load around your new opening and to the foundation.
How close to the corner would you be cutting it? Make sure you leave enough room for the door framing to land firmly on the foundation. I would imagine you would want 2 trimmer studs and 2 kings on either end of that new header.
You should be able to cut your opening, frame in the doorway with a substantial header and safely transfer the load from above onto your foundation at either side of your new doorway.
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12-03-2019, 04:16 PM #1370
Full basement. Can't see the sill plate in that specific corner (it's behind drywall). Joists run parallel to the wall that would be cut. Cut wall is on a gable end. That part of the house is about 40 years old, and has 2 stories above it (so three stories total, including the basement, which is mostly above ground).
It appears to be a combination of stick built and post / beam - there's a center beam running through part of the house, but it doesn't cross the entire width of the house. Which doesn't really make sense to me, but I also don't really know what I'm talking about with that sort of thing. The area above where the cut would be is, as best I can tell, stick built.
Door would probably be cut as close to the corner as possible, but there's easily room for door framing and that sort of thing. 12" from the corner wouldn't be a problem.
Of course, the guys that are going to actually do the work will look at all of these things. I'm just trying to come up with a rough plan, that they can turn into a final plan. I figure the more my rough plan is actually doable (without a bunch of expensive work-arounds), the easier and thus cheaper this process will be.
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12-03-2019, 05:31 PM #1371
I'd cut a bunch of R/Os into concrete. It has always been engineered and it is never as simple as cutting the foundation wall and throwing up some framing. At minimum, there has always been a steel lintel. Sometimes you have screw jack posts, sometimes you have a rebar tie in detail...so the answer is...it depends.
I've seen the concrete above remodel basement egress windows fail. It is not pretty and will make you wonder if your house is falling down. The remaining concrete above the R/O is basically a beam. Or you could just go for it...what is the worst that could happen?
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12-03-2019, 06:06 PM #1372
is your house not worth a consult with an engineer before you pay anyone to cut the foundation? or invest the time in an expensive addition?
pretending the dude running the saw, or the gc for that matter, has any better idea than you as the homeowner seems ill-advised
[if the team has a qualified professional, let them do their job and don't try to solve it on a ski forum]
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12-03-2019, 06:37 PM #1373
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12-03-2019, 06:40 PM #1374
Yeah, it'll get assessed by a professional. Like I said, I'm just sketching out a rough plan and I'm trying to figure out what will likely work vs. what definitely won't work. The layout works well with the door poking through the foundation near the corner. If that's not feasible, I'll have to rethink the rest of the plan.
Final call on feasibility is TBD. I promise not to go nuts with a concrete saw based on ski forum advice.
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12-03-2019, 10:23 PM #1375
Yeah I bet my shorts it's not engineered for seismic in Flathead County.
Any legit contractor can probably figure it out, especially once they google their prospective client.
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