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  1. #5851
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    2 hours to Whiteface
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    705
    ^ but 1/4 inch sub floor is obviously a no go.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  2. #5852
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
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    23,081
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    I have a 300sf space, kitchen/dining/living room. I just put in a new kitchen and am looking at the floor. Subfloor is 2x6, 2x8, 2x whatever they had available i suspect with 1/4 plywood overtop. The floor is not level and not flat. Im going to use some self leveler to take out some of the wavyness but I'll end up with a hump in the room regardless of I do short of a filling the room with gallons of self leveler.

    The room will see high traffic in summer especially if I airbnb the place (sleeps 10-12) in the summer so real wood might not be a good idea. I considered tile but not all that keen.

    Does the collective have suggestions for flooring that will play nice on such a surface? No carpet, no linoleum. Was thinking some kinda vinyl planks but wondering if they'll bust at the click together if there is slight wave in the floor.
    vinyl plank needs a flat floor--read the manufacturer's instruction re how out of flat is allowable. My guess is if there is a noticeable hump you're way out of spec.

  3. #5853
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Denial
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    2,556
    I've put vinyl click together (usually the 3.69 sq/ft stuff from Lowes) over some pretty out of spec floors. In these scenarios it was cheaper and easier to accept a shorter replacement schedule than it was to fuss about flattening the floor. So far 5 years and still going strong.

    Recently used some other stuff from an actual flooring store that I really liked, I think manufactured by Shaw, bigger tiles make it look better, and the lock together system is better, worth looking into, I won't use big box flooring again.
    The whole human race is de evolving; it is due to birth control, smart people use birth control, and stupid people keep pooping out more stupid babies.

  4. #5854
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    314
    Lifeproof from homedepot is good. All plastic, doesn’t get fucked from water. Left a piece outside under the snow one winter, it looked exactly the same. I hate Home Depot but that flooring is my go to for LVP.

  5. #5855
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,019
    Floating plank is good, but sucks if there are hollow spots. Sounds like shit.

    Recently did glue down vinyl faux wood on a humped commercial floor. It looks great. Durable. So much better.

    PS. Renewal by Andersen. Lol.
    . . .

  6. #5856
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Joisey
    Posts
    2,495
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Delta Model 10 was the contractors saw of its day--back when men were men. Mine just died--I think I posted in a different thread. Parts not available. It depends on what you plan to use it for, your budget and whether you need it to be portable. Tell us more.
    I'd skip the craigslist saw, just because of age and no guard : -- ) but the price is right, if it runs smoothly. If it vibrates a lot I'd skip.
    I passed on the Delta saw. As you mentioned, the lack of a guard. Also, the space to use ratio didn’t justify taking up that much real estate in my basement. I’m leaning towards a new contractor/portable saw for the safety and space reasons.

    As for use, immediate need is to rip a few 4” deck boards. Thereafter, it’s another tool in my arsenal… I use projects around the house to build my tool collection!
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  7. #5857
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,139
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    I pretty much need to do the same thing to install a switch to control the garbage disposal.

    I’ve been calling around to see if I can find a counter install company to drill it since the consequences are so high.

    Best advice I’ve seen is a new bit designed for the purpose, water, go slow, use a scrap piece of 1x to position the bit (drill through the 1x with the countertop bit and then use the board to hold the bit in place).
    It's way easier than it seems like it would be to drill stone with a diamond core bit. The cheap drill mounted ones work ok, but a grinder mounted one (variable speed grinder required--also excellent for Lancelot use) is even better and easier to control. You can do it dry but the bit won't last as long

    Air switches come with big escutcheons to cover standard 1 3/8 faucet holes, but the switch only needs like a 1" hole, so if you get a smaller bit you'll have a lot of extra coverage to fuck it up.
    Last edited by climberevan; 11-18-2021 at 08:26 AM.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  8. #5858
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,711
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    I pretty much need to do the same thing to install a switch to control the garbage disposal.

    I’ve been calling around to see if I can find a counter install company to drill it since the consequences are so high.

    Best advice I’ve seen is a new bit designed for the purpose, water, go slow, use a scrap piece of 1x to position the bit (drill through the 1x with the countertop bit and then use the board to hold the bit in place).

    Our GC effed up and did not have the switch holes drilled so we used a "cover-control" model garbage disposer. The disposer turns on/off w the disposer cover by way of magnets. One less thing to clean around on the counter top.

  9. #5859
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Near Perimetr.
    Posts
    3,857
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    ...use a scrap piece of 1x to position the bit (drill through the 1x with the countertop bit and then use the board to hold the bit in place).
    Thats a good one, thanks!

    The floggings will continue until morale improves.

  10. #5860
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    8,257
    My neighbor is putting on an addition. Poured a foundation about a week ago. The concrete cutting guys just showed up this morning. Oops.

  11. #5861
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,711
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    Thanks, those look cool. If I needed to replace the unit that might make sense, but I think is like 3x the cost of the bit and vacuum switch.

    Roger, we're risk averse so we choose the more expensive route to eliminate the potential to ruin the granite countertops.

  12. #5862
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    2 hours to Whiteface
    Posts
    705
    Quote Originally Posted by spanky View Post
    I passed on the Delta saw. As you mentioned, the lack of a guard. Also, the space to use ratio didn’t justify taking up that much real estate in my basement. I’m leaning towards a new contractor/portable saw for the safety and space reasons.

    As for use, immediate need is to rip a few 4” deck boards. Thereafter, it’s another tool in my arsenal… I use projects around the house to build my tool collection!
    " I use projects around the house to build my tool collection!"

    Preach Brother!

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  13. #5863
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    2 hours to Whiteface
    Posts
    705
    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Our GC effed up and did not have the switch holes drilled so we used a "cover-control" model garbage disposer. The disposer turns on/off w the disposer cover by way of magnets. One less thing to clean around on the counter top.
    I had one of those for years and it was great for a while. It was a tank of a disposal. We went through a few of the caps, as the magnets eventually wear through the plastic and fall out. Eventually the cap stopped controlling the on off switch. We remodeled and I got an old school one and had the switch placed inside the cabinet beneath the sink. A buddy had the same thing happen with his and ended up hard wiring it.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  14. #5864
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    2 hours to Whiteface
    Posts
    705
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    I pretty much need to do the same thing to install a switch to control the garbage disposal.

    I’ve been calling around to see if I can find a counter install company to drill it since the consequences are so high.

    Best advice I’ve seen is a new bit designed for the purpose, water, go slow, use a scrap piece of 1x to position the bit (drill through the 1x with the countertop bit and then use the board to hold the bit in place).
    Have you thought about putting the switch under the sink, just inside the cabinet door? We remodeled and did that at the contractors suggestion. Just reach down open the door and flip the switch. We love it.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  15. #5865
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,711
    Quote Originally Posted by BC13 View Post
    I had one of those for years and it was great for a while. It was a tank of a disposal. We went through a few of the caps, as the magnets eventually wear through the plastic and fall out. Eventually the cap stopped controlling the on off switch. We remodeled and I got an old school one and had the switch placed inside the cabinet beneath the sink. A buddy had the same thing happen with his and ended up hard wiring it.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    We had a couple of those in the old house of that vintage(2008.) Had to get insikerator to replace one cap once(no charge.) They had those plastic wings which break and drop the magnets rendering the switch ineffective. The new ones are a different design (no more plastic) and I'm sure they dealt w that issue successfully.

  16. #5866
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    10,870

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Meathelmet View Post
    How to drill quartz countertop?

    Due to several issues (change in plans, provider etc) would need a hole in a quartz countertop to reroute an electric cable for a corner socket box.
    Basically drill a 8-10mm hole in the countertop near the back corner. Sooo...doable as DIY or better to hire some geezer with diamond drill bit?
    I’ve had to drill a lot of quartz (wife ordered counters with no faucet holes, long story)

    I used the granite drill kit, went through a couple of these but worked great. Keep it wet and rock the bit side to side as you drill.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Marshalltow...Saw/5001900259


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  17. #5867
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    1,282
    Quote Originally Posted by AK47bp View Post
    Keep it wet and rock the bit side to side as you drill.
    sigworthy

  18. #5868
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,139
    If you're too afraid to drill the countertop (do you mount your own skis?), at least drill the cabinet door or false front below for the air switch. No offense, but putting a switch behind the door is pretty lazy.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  19. #5869
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Joisey
    Posts
    2,495
    We have a switch inside the cabinet under the sink. Super simple and super clean.
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  20. #5870
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    1,282
    Need some advice from the collective: I bought and older house with quirks around every (not-square) corner. The latest: the free-standing chimney at the center of the house is not flashed on one side (wtf?) There's a ~1-1.5 inch gap where it meets the top of the metal roof sheets running the width of the stack. I was going to go up there today and fill it with masonry-friendly caulk. The instructions say don't apply under 40° and it's 30° so that will have to wait.

    I need a fix I can apply today (aesthetics not a concern) that will last the season. Cram in some backer rod?

  21. #5871
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,943
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    I pretty much need to do the same thing to install a switch to control the garbage disposal.

    I’ve been calling around to see if I can find a counter install company to drill it since the consequences are so high.

    Best advice I’ve seen is a new bit designed for the purpose, water, go slow, use a scrap piece of 1x to position the bit (drill through the 1x with the countertop bit and then use the board to hold the bit in place).
    Rather than do all that and mess up the clean look of your countertop, just wire the switch under the sink. I realize most dentists don’t want to open the sink door and bend down to flip the switch for three seconds like a common peasant, but it’s a much simpler solution with no real downside.

  22. #5872
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Denial
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by ntblanks View Post
    Need some advice from the collective: I bought and older house with quirks around every (not-square) corner. The latest: the free-standing chimney at the center of the house is not flashed on one side (wtf?) There's a ~1-1.5 inch gap where it meets the top of the metal roof sheets running the width of the stack. I was going to go up there today and fill it with masonry-friendly caulk. The instructions say don't apply under 40° and it's 30° so that will have to wait.

    I need a fix I can apply today (aesthetics not a concern) that will last the season. Cram in some backer rod?
    Which side? If its the downhill side that could be correct. Pictures would help
    The whole human race is de evolving; it is due to birth control, smart people use birth control, and stupid people keep pooping out more stupid babies.

  23. #5873
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    1,282
    Quote Originally Posted by Yukonrider View Post
    Which side? If its the downhill side that could be correct. Pictures would help
    yes, the gap is downhill from the chimney. going out there now to grab a photo.

  24. #5874
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Joisey
    Posts
    2,495

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Is it leaking? If not, what makes you think it needs to be sealed up?

    Edit: given all of the exposed nail heads, I’d assume there’s some kind of waterproof layer under the metal roof. Especially if you’re not experiencing any leaks.
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  25. #5875
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,139
    Your really need to flash it. Even a half assed flashing will last way longer than any caulk exposed directly to the elements. It's not that hard-- buy some 4x6 flashing and ghetto bend the 1/2- 3/4 lip on top to get into the mortar line. That's really the only place you need to caulk it, then. You really should go all the way around, since it looks like the rest of it isn't right either.Click image for larger version. 

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    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

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