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  1. #2076
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Know your splinters - if they are large, it could be a condition called shelling, where the growth rings start separating, and hence pose a great hazard to bare feet. No amount of sanding will correct that, you'll need to remove and flip the board over, or replace it - "bark side up".
    I've never heard it called that--I've always heard "ring shake."

  2. #2077
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    What kind of a-hole planning/zoning dictates look of houses outside historic districts?

  3. #2078
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    Quote Originally Posted by schuss View Post
    What kind of a-hole planning/zoning dictates look of houses outside historic districts?
    City of Santa Barbara


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  4. #2079
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    Quote Originally Posted by schuss View Post
    What kind of a-hole planning/zoning dictates look of houses outside historic districts?
    Garage location is a big deal in zoning all over. This is from Missoula's zoning ordinace: "All residential garages that are accessed from the street must be set back at least 20 feet and may not be located closer to the street than the front façade of the residential building."

    (yeah it's not technically zoning but fuck off)

  5. #2080
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Garage location is a big deal in zoning all over. This is from Missoula's zoning ordinace: "All residential garages that are accessed from the street must be set back at least 20 feet and may not be located closer to the street than the front façade of the residential building."

    (yeah it's not technically zoning but fuck off)
    The contractor in me would argue that the stucco and stone is the facade and stands out a good 3" from the face of the garage door so they can fuck right off. The garage is also attached to the residential unit, so the front of the garage is the front of the residence. I could understand all of this for a detached garage.

    I do have lot setbacks and square footage ratios to deal with though, and those were dictated by the original neighborhood CCR's and zoning, but the city will work with you on that since they're 60 years old.

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    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  6. #2081
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    May 2009
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    “Snout house” is the reason for those zoning rules.
    It’s actually a great reason.

  7. #2082
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    Oct 2003
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    Back on point. Considering replacing the over range microwave with a proper vent hood that actually moves air instead of just making noise. Looking at stainless or black stainless, 30". Any good bang for your buck models out there? Priority being air movement, looks secondary, noise whatever.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  8. #2083
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    we bought our vent hood on amazon of all places. This is what we got, but there are lots of cheapish options, and a fair amount of reviews to avoid the lemons.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  9. #2084
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    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    I've never heard it called that--I've always heard "ring shake."
    Sounds something I get in the morning after drinking too many PBRs, or bad food.

  10. #2085
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    Oct 2009
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    Hasn’t there been enough discussion here about vent fans located deep in the far reaches of the ducts?

    Now, asking about a non-fan hood that has a good filter and several LED lights,,, That is the question.

  11. #2086
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    we bought our vent hood on amazon of all places. This is what we got, but there are lots of cheapish options, and a fair amount of reviews to avoid the lemons.
    350 cfm sounds like some rookie numbers. We cook like crazy on the stove, often cranking 3-4 burners at once. Probably will upgrade to induction when the current range dies.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  12. #2087
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    350 cfm sounds like some rookie numbers. We cook like crazy on the stove, often cranking 3-4 burners at once. Probably will upgrade to induction when the current range dies.
    IIRC, if you go over that here, you need to have a source of return air.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  13. #2088
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    May 2009
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    inpdx
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    400cfm & up require makeup air



    Broan is a good quality vent that isn't ritzy-priced

    https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/range-hoods


    30" undercab
    https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/p...ehoods/e6430ss

  14. #2089
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    IIRC, if you go over that here, you need to have a source of return air.
    House built in 1962, so I'm just gonna say the return air is coming from... everywhere.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  15. #2090
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    532
    To jump on the hoodchat: I have a downdraft range and it is not that great. I would love to have a real hood- seems simple to me to just run the tube down the wall and out the existing vent along my basement ceiling but not sure why they did not do this in the first place- it is an old lath and plaster wall. We have a microwave above the range (with cabinets we never use above) that just died and may move anyway, so now would be the time, but I don't want to waste anyone's time coming to check it out if this is going to cost me $100k because of some reason I am not thinking of.

  16. #2091
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    House built in 1962, so I'm just gonna say the return air is coming from... everywhere.
    while true, that won't be good enough for the glademasters of the world.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  17. #2092
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    inpdx
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garbowski View Post
    To jump on the hoodchat: I have a downdraft range and it is not that great. I would love to have a real hood- seems simple to me to just run the tube down the wall and out the existing vent along my basement ceiling but not sure why they did not do this in the first place- it is an old lath and plaster wall. We have a microwave above the range (with cabinets we never use above) that just died and may move anyway, so now would be the time, but I don't want to waste anyone's time coming to check it out if this is going to cost me $100k because of some reason I am not thinking of.
    you'll want to create a new vent path that goes up & across ceiling to a sidewall or out the roof
    retracing the existing path down & under is a bad route

    replacing the cabs is the biggest number in your kitchen (unless you start re-shaping it)
    just cutting up the one over the range to install a hood isn't that expensive
    it's likely already the right size to accept a hood

  18. #2093
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    Dec 2016
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    Question on cutting fence post tops. Am I asking for it cutting w/o a guide/jig? Was going to go circular saw but maybe should go reciprocating.. pausing for now

  19. #2094
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    No guide or jig, you'll get the hang of it pretty quick. Skil saw, make sure the blade is square to the base, cut with both hands on the saw.

  20. #2095
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    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    Question on cutting fence post tops. Am I asking for it cutting w/o a guide/jig? Was going to go circular saw but maybe should go reciprocating.. pausing for now
    When I built my fence I just screwed a chunk of 2x4 on the post level and use as a guide/shelf to run the skilsaw on...


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  21. #2096
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    Dec 2016
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    Okay thanks. I’ll giver a go

  22. #2097
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    Jan 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    Question on cutting fence post tops. Am I asking for it cutting w/o a guide/jig? Was going to go circular saw but maybe should go reciprocating.. pausing for now
    If you can get a clean square cut with a recip saw you're a better man than I am. (Probably are anyway, but in my younger days . . .)

    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    When I built my fence I just screwed a chunk of 2x4 on the post level and use as a guide/shelf to run the skilsaw on...


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    Or just clamp the guide if you don't want screw holes

  23. #2098
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    Nov 2005
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    use your speed square for a saw guide: no need for clamps or screws

  24. #2099
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    Sep 2006
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    6,400
    Could just try digging the post hole to the correct depth.
    I kid, I kid.

  25. #2100
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    Quote Originally Posted by spanghew View Post
    use your speed square for a saw guide: no need for clamps or screws
    Depends how strong you are and how heavy your saw is. The average homeowner would be better off clamping a guide. I'm sure a framer or a strong amateur could make the speed square work.

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