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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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10-01-2019, 11:57 AM #1251Registered User
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hire an architect contractor engineer consultant to put together a spec sheet
it only needs to be two pages or less, trades people lose interest after one page of reading
spell out all the tasks to be completed
even if it's standard
such as off site trash removal
daily nail clean up
damage to building windows etc
have someone calculate sq ft of roofing to be done but use my favortie phrase to be verified by contractor
I love it when an architect or engineer gives me a detail to work with such as underlayment A B or C can be used 40 year 3 tab shingle green color
or just find a reputable company fuck the multiple bids stuff and hire them, I usually walk from multiple bid situations its a waste of time
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10-01-2019, 12:06 PM #1252
Because the workshop will be convertible to a steampunk themed speakeasy. That will include:
- old timey wall paper and crown molding
- (fake) copper ceiling tiles
- Main workbench counter tops with antique maps of Puget Sound embedded in epoxy
- Fold-down copper surface bar
- Bar stools I am custom making out of black iron pipe
- Lighting with Edison style lights"Great barbecue makes you want to slap your granny up the side of her head." - Southern Saying
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10-01-2019, 12:23 PM #1253
As a homeowner I agree. If the job is done right the materials will last, if it's not the shingle company will have an out and the contractor will have retired to his yacht in a country without an extradition treaty with the US.
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10-01-2019, 12:34 PM #1254
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10-01-2019, 12:45 PM #1255
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10-02-2019, 11:07 AM #1256
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10-02-2019, 12:14 PM #1257
🤨
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsBest Skier on the Mountain
Self-Certified
1992 - 2012
Squaw Valley, USA
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10-05-2019, 11:08 AM #1258“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
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10-05-2019, 03:39 PM #1259
I'm guessing likes it for real as materials costing is more even across and there's no misunderstanding. Also having it specified up front probably means less bullshit meetings/choices that soak time.
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10-06-2019, 02:41 PM #1260Registered User
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yeah I love it in a good way
I like being told what to do
but if it's completely moronic and I know the detail is shit, which is rare, then I won't do it
like how to properly install a door and window, I know the flashing details I will stand behind and will only do it my way
but say a flat roof with a deck and living space under it built at 10,000 ft, I'll do what the architect/engieer spec'd and let them take the fall when it leaks, because it will leak
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10-07-2019, 11:28 AM #1261
Collective question - old house, built by drunken miners with un-level floors to match. I have kitchen tile which is fine but I hate the color. It's laid on backer board over suspect vinyl flooring.
Been weighing ideas:
Since the floor is uneven, vinyl plank flooring seems like a good economic choice given this won't be my dream kitchen remodel - just some surface improvement. I'd even be open to some sort of re-surfacing over the tile.
But with that - what I'm trying to figure out is - do I just suffer the loss of even more ceiling height by putting the new flooring over the tile?... Or do I go for breaking down the tile, getting to at least the backer and maybe try to do a leveling compound and resurface to mitigate some of the warp? I can probably get the old vinyl floor tested for asbestos to know for certain what I'm dealing with. My head starts to get stuck on - things like - well, if you are pulling it all up - spring for a better flooring like cork or a tasteful tile or just do a good for now improvement with least reasonable effort. It's a fair amount of space.
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10-07-2019, 11:51 AM #1262Registered User
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How many square feet ? How much time and demo skill do you have to spend on this ? IF demoing can be done in 1 or 2 days might not be such a bad thing to take out the tile and backer, level and recover using a floating floor. Adding a little glue in strategic spots on a floating floor and padding can work magic. Adding an extra layer to an already raised surface might look like shit and potentially get in the way of a sale in the future depending on the quality and price point of the house. Toss up on testing the vinyl floor if this is DIY.
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10-07-2019, 12:09 PM #1263
What's the sub-floor? What's the elevation different between the lowest point to highest? Is the sub-floor uneven or the foundation uneven?
If the sub-floor is solid, and its < 3/4" of elevation difference, you can pour self leveling ardex, anything more it will crack. If the sub-floor is flexy it will crack.
Re: Asbestos. Once you know its there, you know its there. If it was my home, I would not test it. I'd just rent an air scrubber, put on a P100 respirator and tyvek suit, and get rid of it as cleanly as possible.Best Skier on the Mountain
Self-Certified
1992 - 2012
Squaw Valley, USA
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10-07-2019, 12:18 PM #1264
Once you know it is asbestos, you cannot pay someone else to remove it unless they are licensed in asbestos remediation.
If you plan to DIY in any event, no harm in testing. But if I were you, I'd make the "remove" decision first, and only use testing to determine how you remove it. If you plan to leave it if it tests hot, then don't test and just leave it."fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
"She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
"everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy
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10-07-2019, 12:21 PM #1265
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10-07-2019, 12:43 PM #1266
Thanks guys. My house is 1/2 old, 1/2 new. The kitchen is the gateway from old to new - the foundation settling in the old part is what caused the uneveness. The subfloor is actually boards - not ply or osb. The settling resulted in a high joist almost dead center - I'll need to measure the runout but probably in the 3/4 range. Rough sqft ~200. While writing this, I double checked and it's actually TWO vinyl layers - I think the bottom one is suspect. Ugh: subfloor boards - old vinyl - more recent vinyl - backer - thinset - tile. Mtn methods at it's finest. That said, the floor actually feels solid.
A few days of demo isn't a big deal for me at all. However, my nerves can't handle messing with bad junk in the house - been there done that. If it's me doing it, I'd prefer to test it to know - at this pt, leave it undisturbed. So if I find it has asbestos and elect to get it removed - I'm hiring a professional and getting a proper kitchen remodel soup to nuts. At this point, I'd be happy just making it look a bit more contemporary.
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10-07-2019, 12:46 PM #1267
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10-07-2019, 12:55 PM #1268Banned
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personally my belief, and I been around a good amount of asbestos, is that if you aren't subjected to it over and over for longer periods of time I wouldn't stress a one time removal. tyvek, respirator, plastic off the space VERY well from other house space and wet the heck out of it. That keeps the dust at bay. Its exactly what a pro removal team would do. They might put in some air handlers too, but thats likely a regulatory issue. The cost for the pros to remove is based on the insurance they have to carry.
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10-07-2019, 01:00 PM #1269
If the installer used high quality thinset good luck with leaving the backer down.
Is there a post in the basement holding that joist high?
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10-07-2019, 01:28 PM #1270
Yeah, that's sort of what I was expecting. I've removed tile before but backer over ply in in an entry way and tbh if I was doing it again, I'd see if I could just remove the ply section as that was a pain. Obviously, this is all DIY and I'm full of mistakes and bad ideas which I'm ok with so long as I don't create a much worse situation.
I wish I had a basement. The old house portion is a craptastic crawlspace. I had the engineers out years ago before I bought the place. "Some event, years ago. Not worth correcting leveling the foundation unless you absolutely need but it's done". I have a report somewhere.
I respect the opinions on the asbestos - I don't want to get into it but I got roped into something when I was a young man and found it later it was toxic. Still haunts me & I don't even like talking about it. At this point of my life, I can afford the professionals if that's what needs doing. I've long since accepted that potential cost as a byproduct on the eventual full kitchen remodel.
I really appreciate the guidance here. Since I'm more into a visual improvement with a shelf-life @ this point, my read is:
1) removing the tile almost certainly will disturb the vinyl underneath
2) as I expected, on-top of the tile is adding to a layer-cake of ugliness
Maybe I'll re-look into some of the paint/coat tile options. Sounded like lots of prep and spotty results but not much to lose but time. Might even let me take a fashion risk since it won't be forever.
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10-07-2019, 03:31 PM #1271Registered User
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Exterior door is rubbing/hitting on the upper left opposite the hinge. I think the contractor fucked up the install or the house settled. No other obvious indications the house has settled. I can clearly see that the door is not square in the frame.
I could easily sand the frame down and make this work or I could pull the interior trim and try to square up the frame. I think it might be out front to back as well as I am having trouble getting a good deal on the weather stripping. Thoughts?
I've set and trimmed interior doors, but haven't screwed around with exterior doors.
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10-07-2019, 03:36 PM #1272
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10-08-2019, 11:49 AM #1273
I have a few interior doors about 100 years old that have become bent over time making them difficult to latch. They are 2x6 around the perimeter with thin ply in the middle. Has anyone had success bending doors straight? How is it done?
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10-08-2019, 11:57 AM #1274
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10-08-2019, 11:59 AM #1275
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