Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[::: :::]

Flexible dryer duct + spray foam insulation in a can. Split the dryer duct so you can get it over the copper, put a couple big hose clamps around it. Fill with spray foam.

i was trying to figure what kind of jacketed system there might be out there
diy works too
thanks

[::: :::]

Curious to hear people's thoughts about this - when we did our paver patio, we were ordering 3/4 minus and sand and the landscape supply company where we were buying the material said "don't bother with the sand, in a few years it filters down through the gravel, we see it happen all the time." They told us to just get the 3/4 minus as smooth as possible with a compactor. I didn't think they'd steer us wrong in order to sell us less material, so we took their advice. It worked OK - we were using large 2' x 2' pavers with gaps in between for groundcover, so less sensitive to small height differences than small pavers laid without gaps, but it was a huge pain in the ass to get things reasonably level. What's up with this one yard giving different advice than the whole Internet?

in my mind, the sand gives you adjustability
the 3/4- is limited in that regard
some don't care at that level of scrutiny

we did one install at our old house (entry walkway) that was pretty bomber (you could have driven a dump truck on it...we over excavated & had a ton of base material in there...lol)
no fabric btwn 3/4- & sand
we had to brush in sand a little over the first year. But, after that, organics filled in the gaps, and we got moss in the joints which was better, despite not being all that drainable.

[sirbumpsalot]

Curious to hear people's thoughts about this - when we did our paver patio, we were ordering 3/4 minus and sand and the landscape supply company where we were buying the material said "don't bother with the sand, in a few years it filters down through the gravel, we see it happen all the time." They told us to just get the 3/4 minus as smooth as possible with a compactor. I didn't think they'd steer us wrong in order to sell us less material, so we took their advice. It worked OK - we were using large 2' x 2' pavers with gaps in between for groundcover, so less sensitive to small height differences than small pavers laid without gaps, but it was a huge pain in the ass to get things reasonably level. What's up with this one yard giving different advice than the whole Internet?

dan_pdx...where did you get your 3/4 minus? I know you live east side and I live far westside, but curious. I am using paver bricks run tight against each other so I will use leveling sand to get preciseness.

My soil is fairly packed dirt/clay and rocky. This just needs to look good, not look professional....its just a 20ft pathway between the flowerbeds like this:

[dan_pdx]

dan_pdx...where did you get your 3/4 minus? I know you live east side and I live far westside, but curious. I am using paver bricks run tight against each other so I will use leveling sand to get preciseness.

My soil is fairly packed dirt/clay and rocky. This just needs to look good, not look professional....its just a 20ft pathway between the flowerbeds like this:

Hey, I think we probably got our rock from Mt. Scott Fuel. This was 10+ years ago, but now that I recall, the "forget about the sand" advice was from a different place where we were buying decorative rock as part of that patio project, I think Oregon Decorative Rock. Mt Scott Fuel in particular has been reliable / good to work with. They do say they deliver to Beaverton, Tualatin, and Tigard.

Sounds like we have the same soil - ours is hard clay. We were installing on a slight slope, and I don't remember the exact measure, but might have had about 8" on the shallow/downhill end of the excavation and more than that on the uphill side. I had to use a pickaxe for some of it, hard work to dig that stuff when it's dry.

[sirbumpsalot]

Hey, I think we probably got our rock from Mt. Scott Fuel. This was 10+ years ago, but now that I recall, the "forget about the sand" advice was from a different place where we were buying decorative rock as part of that patio project, I think Oregon Decorative Rock. Mt Scott Fuel in particular has been reliable / good to work with. They do say they deliver to Beaverton, Tualatin, and Tigard.

I looked at Mt Scott...and its typical to what I see...just "crushed rock"....nothing described as paver base or like folks say here "3/4 minus".

[dan_pdx]

I looked at Mt Scott...and its typical to what I see...just "crushed rock"....nothing described as paver base or like folks say here "3/4 minus".

I think this is the product people are talking about: https://mtscottfuel.com/product/3-4-crushed-rock/

[sirbumpsalot]

I think this is the product people are talking about: https://mtscottfuel.com/product/3-4-crushed-rock/

Ok...someone earlier suggested this might not be the same thing (no smaller pieces or dust) and not good for compacting. I'll give a call, but in my experience if you don't know exactly what you are looking for....they don't either!

[dan_pdx]

Ok...someone earlier suggested this might not be the same thing (no smaller pieces or dust) and not good for compacting. I'll give a call, but in my experience if you don't know exactly what you are looking for....they don't either!

I think that might be the one - it does say "has fines in it." But yeah, see what they say.

I've rented a Uhaul trailer to get loads of barkdust from them before, but I don't think the savings is worth the added hassle, especially if you'd be making multiple trips from SW.

[Buster Highmen]

Construction question:
I'm framing in a small cabin, 10'x12'. I ran the first floor joists on hangers and have built the walls with 2x6s with a 2 2x10 headers all along each wall.

I'm about to start the second floor and was thinking about how to do the floor joists.
I can either do them the standard way of setting them on top of the headers or I could do hangers off those headers.

What's the wisdom or pros and cons of each?

[Timberridge]

Curious to hear people's thoughts about this - when we did our paver patio, we were ordering 3/4 minus and sand and the landscape supply company where we were buying the material said "don't bother with the sand, in a few years it filters down through the gravel, we see it happen all the time." They told us to just get the 3/4 minus as smooth as possible with a compactor. I didn't think they'd steer us wrong in order to sell us less material, so we took their advice. It worked OK - we were using large 2' x 2' pavers with gaps in between for groundcover, so less sensitive to small height differences than small pavers laid without gaps, but it was a huge pain in the ass to get things reasonably level. What's up with this one yard giving different advice than the whole Internet?

The sand layer is there to allow you to get pavers to level. It eventually binds tight as it gets rained on -- walk on the beach on the wet part and you will see it doesn't migrate like dry sand when it gets wet. It basically stays damp forever once the pavers are on top.
The stone dust on top of the crushed basically makes the base basically impervious to water, then the sand is there to allow you to level it off.

[old_newguy]

Hey, I think we probably got our rock from Mt. Scott Fuel. This was 10+ years ago, but now that I recall, the "forget about the sand" advice was from a different place where we were buying decorative rock as part of that patio project, I think Oregon Decorative Rock. Mt Scott Fuel in particular has been reliable / good to work with. They do say they deliver to Beaverton, Tualatin, and Tigard.

Sounds like we have the same soil - ours is hard clay. We were installing on a slight slope, and I don't remember the exact measure, but might have had about 8" on the shallow/downhill end of the excavation and more than that on the uphill side. I had to use a pickaxe for some of it, hard work to dig that stuff when it's dry.

Thanks for the reference on Mt Scott. I’ve been looking for a company that delivers in SW/_Tigard/Beaverton.

[sirbumpsalot]

Thanks for the reference on Mt Scott. I’ve been looking for a company that delivers in SW/_Tigard/Beaverton.

I've always used Grimm's for mulch. They are located off 99W and Roy Rodgers in Sherwood/Tigard and deliver. Was planning to use for rock....if I can figure out what the right product is!

[::: :::]

Ok...someone earlier suggested this might not be the same thing (no smaller pieces or dust) and not good for compacting. I'll give a call, but in my experience if you don't know exactly what you are looking for....they don't either!

Works great for compacting & drains way better, it's just more expensive

I think that might be the one - it does say "has fines in it." But yeah, see what they say.

I've rented a Uhaul trailer to get loads of barkdust from them before, but I don't think the savings is worth the added hassle, especially if you'd be making multiple trips from SW.

Their "Clean 3/4" is the one without fines; you should be good on their "3/4 Crushed"

[::: :::]

Construction question:
I'm framing in a small cabin, 10'x12'. I ran the first floor joists on hangers and have built the walls with 2x6s with a 2 2x10 headers all along each wall.

I'm about to start the second floor and was thinking about how to do the floor joists.
I can either do them the standard way of setting them on top of the headers or I could do hangers off those headers.

What's the wisdom or pros and cons of each?

either works - imho, easier to just frame on top
i'm assuming a ladder gets you to the loft? [stairs won't fit]
but what ceiling height did you anticipate?
is there a roof hgt limitation you have to stay under?

[sirbumpsalot]

Works great for compacting & drains way better, it's just more expensive


Their "Clean 3/4" is the one without fines; you should be good on their "3/4 Crushed"

Is the "sand" these guys sell the same as "leveling sand" ?

[old_newguy]

I've always used Grimm's for mulch. They are located off 99W and Roy Rodgers in Sherwood/Tigard and deliver. Was planning to use for rock....if I can figure out what the right product is!

Thanks!

[Buster Highmen]

either works - imho, easier to just frame on top
i'm assuming a ladder gets you to the loft? [stairs won't fit]
but what ceiling height did you anticipate?
is there a roof hgt limitation you have to stay under?

It's small enough to not require a permit, so the stairs will be steep, not to code.

I've planned a 4'x6' aperture through which the stairs will go, wrapping around the edge of the hole with stovepipe going up to the second floor ceiling.

Ceiling height for floor 1 with either be 8' or 7' depending on the way I do the second floor.

Second floor will have a 4' ceiling in back and 8' in front with a sloped "shed" roof.

Hangers seems awfully easy....

[::: :::]

Is the "sand" these guys sell the same as "leveling sand" ?

dunno, i'd just ask them


try calling Willamette Graystone for assembly tech questions...they're pretty helpful

[::: :::]

It's small enough to not require a permit, so the stairs will be steep, not to code.

I've planned a 4'x6' aperture through which the stairs will go, wrapping around the edge of the hole with stovepipe going up to the second floor ceiling.

Ceiling height for floor 1 with either be 8' or 7' depending on the way I do the second floor.

Second floor will have a 4' ceiling in back and 8' in front with a sloped "shed" roof.

Hangers seems awfully easy....

nothing wrong w/ hangers

but you're a tall guy...i'd go 8' clg

[eta]look up "alternate tread stair" -- might be just the thing for your steep stair [tho warn residents cuz they go against normal expectation & require some clear headed use, descension esp]

[snoqpass]

Construction question:
I'm framing in a small cabin, 10'x12'. I ran the first floor joists on hangers and have built the walls with 2x6s with a 2 2x10 headers all along each wall.

I'm about to start the second floor and was thinking about how to do the floor joists.
I can either do them the standard way of setting them on top of the headers or I could do hangers off those headers.

What's the wisdom or pros and cons of each?

If the joists land on the studs you’re doing good. Ideally you want them to carry the load even with the header

[dan_pdx]

It's small enough to not require a permit, so the stairs will be steep, not to code.

I've planned a 4'x6' aperture through which the stairs will go, wrapping around the edge of the hole with stovepipe going up to the second floor ceiling.

Ceiling height for floor 1 with either be 8' or 7' depending on the way I do the second floor.

Second floor will have a 4' ceiling in back and 8' in front with a sloped "shed" roof.

Hangers seems awfully easy....

Hey, I don't remember if you mentioned this before - what's the scoop on your shed / cabin? Is it in your yard, or are you doing a backwoods hut? Just curious - I'm enjoying following the process.

[Buster Highmen]

nothing wrong w/ hangers

but you're a tall guy...i'd go 8' clg

[eta]look up "alternate tread stair" -- might be just the thing for your steep stair [tho warn residents cuz they go against normal expectation & require some clear headed use, descension esp]

I'm planning on trying to do a floating stair using cables to support the treads on the room side with 1 stringer on the wall side, running 12/12.

If the joists land on the studs you’re doing good. Ideally you want them to carry the load even with the header

That works for the N. wall, but the S. wall has a 78" wide window (actually a repurposed full relight wood door from salvage) in a wall 140" long. So I'll key it off the N. wall. Thanks.

Hey, I don't remember if you mentioned this before - what's the scoop on your shed / cabin? Is it in your yard, or are you doing a backwoods hut? Just curious - I'm enjoying following the process.

It's in our backyard. We have 5+ wooded acres E of Redmond. The house satisfies the "pee off the porches w/o getting arrested" attribute. See IG #dreamshack.

[skialpy]

i was trying to figure what kind of jacketed system there might be out there
diy works too
thanks

My understanding is that the can foam has no significant R value, simply a gap filler.

[dan_pdx]

It's in our backyard. We have 5+ wooded acres E of Redmond. The house satisfies the "pee off the porches w/o getting arrested" attribute. See IG #dreamshack.

Nice!

[Not DJSapp]

My understanding is that the can foam has no significant R value, simply a gap filler.

Can't measure an R value when you don't have a nominal thickness.