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  1. #10351
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    3,193
    Mask off hearth and floor. Spray foam gap to seal air leak, trim cured foam flush, then oak 1/4 round or shoe mould or fillet strips stained to match.

    Or rip/scribe some oak flooring to fit and glue it in there.

  2. #10352
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    9,444
    Yep, nothing says "hack" like a half inch bead of caulk.

    As mentioned, trim it with something and if you can match don't. Either was backer rod of fiberglass insulation underneath (they sell small packets for windows).

    You can get "mortar caulk" is a couple of colors but my experience is that it is challenging to tool and is tough to make look good inside.

    I fight this issue all the time trying to figure out how to trade coordinate hardwood flooring and rock of the fireplace wall.

  3. #10353
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    3,256
    Info: is the hearth raised or at the same level as the floor?

  4. #10354
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Treading Water
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    7,053
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    My 1930 house has about a 1/2 gap between the brick hearth and the narrow, thin strip oak flooring. Suggestions for what to fill the gap with. Mortar? Tile grout? Something else. My wife wants to use brown tinted silicone caulk. Bad idea I think, at least for looks. There is a little cold air coming up through the gap from the crawl space.
    Lots of small bricks?
    However many are in a shit ton.

  5. #10355
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    base of the Bush
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    15,156
    OG needs to post some pictures which would lead to better solutions.
    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

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    Ottime

  6. #10356
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Yonder
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    22,269
    Yep. Wood trim.

    Problem is 1930 oak floors are probably quarter sawn. Stock quarter round could have funky grain. But if you find straight grain that would work.

    Aren’t you a woodworker? Get straight grain stock and run it through a router to make quarter round or the profile you want. Stain to match and varnish.

    Oh. And caulk that gap first to keep the wife draft free.
    Kill all the telemarkers
    But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
    Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason

  7. #10357
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
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    24,428
    Sorry for not being more clear. The hearth is flush with the wood. So what I need is something to fill the gap, not cover it. I'm thinking either mortar or grout to match the mortar between the bricks but I thought I'd see if there were other options. My wife and have worked with both. This is a job for her. She's neater. The gap is too irregular for a wood infill strip.

  8. #10358
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    9,444
    https://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/

    This is the best one I've used. Surgically tape everything. Either Frog Tape Orange or Vinyl Stucco Tape on the brick. What some YouTubes on Siliconized Caulk Tooling. The Windex trick works. Practice. You can't fix it easily if it looks like dog shit. [/Contractor that doesn't let anyone touch the caulk gun besides the painter and they always have to come back and fix shit]

  9. #10359
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    We've used neoprene foam strip in similar situations - gaps with irregular width, can't caulk or use a scribe strip.

    something like this - https://rubbersheetwarehouse.com/col...nt=21540264579

  10. #10360
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,193
    And definitely use a backerod if you're going to caulk a gap that large. The backer isn't for taking up space, it's a 3-way bond breaker.
    Caulk stretches 2 dimensionally. If it bonds to the back surface, when everything starts moving, your
    caulk will crack eventually.

  11. #10361
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Yonder
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    22,269
    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    https://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/

    This is the best one I've used. Surgically tape everything. Either Frog Tape Orange or Vinyl Stucco Tape on the brick. What some YouTubes on Siliconized Caulk Tooling. The Windex trick works. Practice. You can't fix it easily if it looks like dog shit. [/Contractor that doesn't let anyone touch the caulk gun besides the painter and they always have to come back and fix shit]
    Silicone mortar caulk. Wow. Never heard of it. Very cool.

    Will it match the existing mortar? There’s the rub
    Even matching mortar to mortar isn’t easy if you go that route.

    Tile grout has so many colors the match would be easier. It’s going to crack at some point however.

    You could go back to the wood idea and cut around the hearth the same width as the floor boards and picture frame it. Scribing the hearth ends of each new board before you rip them to final width. Unless it’s not that irregular.
    Kill all the telemarkers
    But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
    Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason

  12. #10362
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    9,444
    Nothing well ever match. You have to just deal with that.

  13. #10363
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,577
    I'd be half inclined to cut the wood flooring back a bit to make the gap a bit bigger. Then install a piece of contrasting wood as an accent of sorts around the border of the hearth. Leave an ~1/8" gap to the masonry and fill with whatever color silicone will look decent. Or grout it if you're not worried about wood expansion.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  14. #10364
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,920
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I'd be half inclined to cut the wood flooring back a bit to make the gap a bit bigger. Then install a piece of contrasting wood as an accent of sorts around the border of the hearth. Leave an ~1/8" gap to the masonry and fill with whatever color silicone will look decent. Or grout it if you're not worried about wood expansion.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
    Agreed. I think this would look the most intentional, but maybe tricky saw work (for me anyway).

    Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

  15. #10365
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    https://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/

    This is the best one I've used. Surgically tape everything. Either Frog Tape Orange or Vinyl Stucco Tape on the brick. What some YouTubes on Siliconized Caulk Tooling. The Windex trick works. Practice. You can't fix it easily if it looks like dog shit. [/Contractor that doesn't let anyone touch the caulk gun besides the painter and they always have to come back and fix shit]
    FTW. There's an Ace locally that sells it. My wife is very good at caulking etc. Precision work is her specialty--after 25 years she's shutting down her stained glass shop (Tiffany style lampshades of her own design.) She's replacing the clear silicone caulk she used before which looked fine but is failing after decades. Thank you.

    As expected there are no gaps where the end grain of the flooring butts up to the sides of the hearth. Only at the front where it joint is subject to width expansion of the flooring.

  16. #10366
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    6,262
    Sanded caulk or find a good background caulk color and add some sand


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  17. #10367
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Yonder
    Posts
    22,269
    Old goats wife is skilled on caulk

    That’s a keeper
    Kill all the telemarkers
    But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
    Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason

  18. #10368
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    Agreed. I think this would look the most intentional, but maybe tricky saw work (for me anyway).

    Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
    With a track saw I think it wouldn't be too bad. Would just need some careful work with the multitool to finish the ends of the cut.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  19. #10369
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    1,920
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    With a track saw I think it wouldn't be too bad. Would just need some careful work with the multitool to finish the ends of the cut.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
    Track saw would be money if there's access. I was thinking toe kick saw.

    Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

  20. #10370
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    32,969
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    Silicone mortar caulk. Wow. Never heard of it. Very cool.

    Will it match the existing mortar? There’s the rub
    Even matching mortar to mortar isn’t easy if you go that route.

    Tile grout has so many colors the match would be easier. It’s going to crack at some point however.

    You could go back to the wood idea and cut around the hearth the same width as the floor boards and picture frame it. Scribing the hearth ends of each new board before you rip them to final width. Unless it’s not that irregular.
    https://www.mapei.com/ca/en-ca/produ...il/keracaulk-s

    I used this ^^ stuff between the tub and the 1st row of tiles of my tub/ shower, it seemed easy enough to get a good color match

    tube sez it matches all unsanded grout colors
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #10371
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
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    10,933
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Someone had their eyes closed trying to hit that joist.

  22. #10372
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    9,444
    Track saw...maybe with challenges

    Toe kick saw...makes me thing you never used one

    Caulking a 1/2 gap? Good luck. Send me a picture in 3months.

    But yeah, post a picture for me unsolicitated comment

  23. #10373
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,920
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
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    Someone had their eyes closed trying to hit that joist.
    And weren't they supposed to have the paper side up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post

    Toe kick saw...makes me thing you never used one
    Once. It wasn't pleasant. What's the play? Oscillating/multi tool?

  24. #10374
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,193
    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    Caulking a 1/2 gap? Good luck. Send me a picture in 3months.
    What happens in 3 months?

  25. #10375
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    9,444
    Assuming you can tool caulk grout to look good, a 1/2" bead will crack and shrink. It's not the product for the job.

    What's the play? It depends. That's the game. Homebuilding and remodeling isn't this one size fits all type of this. Customers get this wrong all the time. How you gonna do it? No idea, but I'll figure it out. That's why you are paying me to be here and get it done.

    But yeah, a laser straight finish cut in a restricted space in hardwood is gonna be challenging.

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