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  1. #7301
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,019
    Quote Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained View Post
    Clap on, Clap off.

    The Clapper.
    If I rented an STR and it had the clapper I would be delighted.

  2. #7302
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,019
    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    My electricians use Lutron switches like this


    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-C...Y-WH/314328456
    From what I know it needs a bridge connected to the router.
    And programming.

    But if that is possible they do have remotes and dummy wall switches.
    But the original wall switches still needs a neutral.

  3. #7303
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,081
    Remote in an STR is guaranteed to get lost.

  4. #7304
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,177

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    My electricians use Lutron switches like this


    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-C...Y-WH/314328456
    that's basically what we have
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #7305
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    6,256
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    From what I know it needs a bridge connected to the router.
    And programming.

    But if that is possible they do have remotes and dummy wall switches.
    But the original wall switches still needs a neutral.
    I have the tp link kasa switches. No bridge required. But it sounds like that may still be more complicated than is necessary for this str.

    Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

  6. #7306
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Vacationland
    Posts
    5,896
    Renovating a rental apartment and am fully down the floating shelf rabbit hole. Not really wanting to spend 100's on brackets/routing templates/drill guides etc.

    Who's got a cool looking affordable shelf solution?

    The span will be 60", planning for 10" deep shelves. I have 2 x6" blocking in the center 32" of the space and in the side walls for cleats.

    Am I asking for trouble doing a solid piece of hardwood as opposed to several pieces glued up? The guy at one of the local hardwood stores warned of warping if I do a solid piece.

  7. #7307
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    base of the Bush
    Posts
    14,848
    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    Renovating a rental apartment and am fully down the floating shelf rabbit hole. Not really wanting to spend 100's on brackets/routing templates/drill guides etc.

    Who's got a cool looking affordable shelf solution?

    The span will be 60", planning for 10" deep shelves. I have 2 x6" blocking in the center 32" of the space and in the side walls for cleats.

    Am I asking for trouble doing a solid piece of hardwood as opposed to several pieces glued up? The guy at one of the local hardwood stores warned of warping if I do a solid piece.
    I did floating kitchen shelves for some clients during a home build. Used 3 1/2" steel rods inserted into the 2x4 wall studs. 3 1/2" deep hole to avoid pushing through the powder room rock and 7" deep bore into 2" thick live edge pine.
    Doing some additional work there this summer and after 8 years the shelves are happy with their loads of plates/bowls/glasses ect.

    If properly dried and sealed I wouldn't think a hardwood shelf would warp.
    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

  8. #7308
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    10,248
    Someday, if it ever dries, I’m gonna treat this effing fence. Meantime, it occurs to me that my HVLP sprayer will get tedious to continually refill, and I’ve had enough past projects that would have benefited from a paint sprayer, that I’m considering biting the bullet.

    Its first job will be spraying stain on a fence, but it will also be used to spray brick on a house, interior walls, furniture, and possibly metal items. What should I be looking for? Can a single sprayer handle all that? If not, what’s going to be the most versatile that can handle the impending projects?
    Last edited by bagtagley; 09-13-2022 at 01:14 PM.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  9. #7309
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,139
    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    Renovating a rental apartment and am fully down the floating shelf rabbit hole. Not really wanting to spend 100's on brackets/routing templates/drill guides etc.

    Who's got a cool looking affordable shelf solution?

    The span will be 60", planning for 10" deep shelves. I have 2 x6" blocking in the center 32" of the space and in the side walls for cleats.

    Am I asking for trouble doing a solid piece of hardwood as opposed to several pieces glued up? The guy at one of the local hardwood stores warned of warping if I do a solid piece.
    Is it going between side walls? If so, it's not actually a floating shelf--it's just a shelf. A 60"x10"x 5/4 piece of hardwood will span that with only a minimal support in the middle in case they put 100# on it. For the ends, the easiest thing will be to put short sections of angle iron on the side walls, then groove (leave the front edge intact, obviously) the sides of the shelf so it can slide over them. If the top of the shelf is too high to see a ghetto way is to just pocket screw it to the studs. Set the jig so that the screws go through lots of meat, or just freehand the drilling from the bottom corner up to the top face.

    For true floating shelves I use the now-cheap solid posts welded to flat brackets that screw to studs. They are available with 1/2" posts (plenty) or 3/4" posts (overkill). I used to weld my own but Bezos made that unnecessary. If the shelf is boxed, I just slide it over the posts. If it's solid, drill for them.

    A thick piece of wood won't warp further after it's conditioned to the space, but that will take a while, depending on the local humidity etc.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  10. #7310
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Conformist, Complacent State
    Posts
    678
    Asking for some painting advice.

    Looks board and batten siding but I guess you would call it plywood and batten (?) Anyways, from the 70’s and looks kind of like this.
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    Wood is about in perfect shape, and it looks like the ¾” plywood has some kind of factory painted vapor barrier (?) Previous owner did not paint battens to plywood like this.
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    It would be easer to just paint but I’m guessing it will crack at all the seams and possibly be hard to remove if we change siding down the road if the boards are painted to the plywood.

    Pull battens (easy) and then paint plywood and removed battens and then tack back up?
    So the world is filled with tubular entities. Food goes in one end and shit comes out the other. Sperm goes in and babies come out.

  11. #7311
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,406
    Paint it as is.

  12. #7312
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3,884
    This coming spring i will be installing an irrigation system for my backyard. 3 zones- veggie garden, perimeter landscaping, and lawn sprinklers. It will all run around the perimeter of the yard in the same trench. I have a pretty good idea of what i will use and how i will install.

    I would also like to put in landscape lighting, or at least conduit for the power at this time while i have that trench open. Does anyone have any suggestions for dead-simple DIY modular landscape lighting kits?

  13. #7313
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,177
    You need:
    an exterior power outlet,
    plug in transformer (60watt works well for LEDs)
    Single low voltage wire
    Sealed connectors (like a wire nut but filled with gel to keep it water proof)
    And your light fixtures. (13watt LED?)

    You don’t need conduit (though that does protect the wire better). Wire can just be buried shallowly.

    A Kichler 60watt xfmr can handle a bunch of low power LEDs. Just add up the power reqts per fixture. As long as you’re within 100 wire feet of the xfmr, you are good

    Talk to your local landscape hardware supply house. they are a good resource.

  14. #7314
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,019
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Paint it as is.
    Yes. Holy fuck what a waste of time to pull all the battens. Otoh if it is stained just stain it again with a solid color stain. Way easier.

    On landscape light the safest way is to put wired on the lawn. Just stab a half moon edger and wiggle it to make a gash. It’s not going to get whacked by any gardening. Or, put it at the very back of the garden bed. I hate digging and finding low voltage wire that I cut.

    Think about where you want a transformer. High voltage to there, which could go in the trench as long as you use conduit. Ironically plastic conduit needs to be deep. Metal conduit can be shallow. Off the top of my head it’s 18” for metal. 24” for no conduit UF bare wire.

  15. #7315
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Central OR
    Posts
    5,961
    Quote Originally Posted by californiagrown View Post
    I would also like to put in landscape lighting, or at least conduit for the power at this time while i have that trench open. Does anyone have any suggestions for dead-simple DIY modular landscape lighting kits?
    Solar lights work great; easy to move if you need to. No wire install at all; where I live the gophers chew through wire. The latest LED solar lights are plenty bright too.

  16. #7316
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,761
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Do it.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  17. #7317
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,061
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Someday, if it ever dries, I’m gonna treat this effing fence. Meantime, it occurs to me that my HVLP sprayer will get tedious to continually refill, and I’ve had enough past projects that would have benefited from a paint sprayer, that I’m considering biting the bullet.

    Its first job will be spraying stain on a fence, but it will also be used to spray brick on a house, interior walls, furniture, and possibly metal items. What should I be looking for? Can a single sprayer handle all that? If not, what’s going to be the most versatile that can handle the impending projects?
    Yeah, I mentioned that a couple pages ago regarding any kind of cup gun. Too much dikin around refilling your cup. Plus, they put material out too slow.
    Airless is probably the most versatile sprayer. Spray a wider array of product w/out having to reduce it(not always the case even w/ airless).

  18. #7318
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,139
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post

    Do it.
    Such a no brainer. I try hard to convince all of my clients. When I fail I still put an outlet there for when they inevitably see the light.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  19. #7319
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,810
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Do it.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Irrigation system ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #7320
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    2 hours from anything
    Posts
    10,722
    Anyone have experience sealing their house? I’m looking to significantly reduce outside air intrusion primarily for when it is smokey but also for efficiency. I have a 3 year old who has mild asthma, I have mild asthma, and it bugs both of us. I currently have about 6 air purifiers running but on the worst days out indoor AQI sensor said it was 200+ (outside was 1500).

    House has a ventilated crawl space and ventilated attic. Also has a louvered whole house fan (these three things kinda makes me think I might be pissing into the wind). I’m debating between the DIY of turning on the WHF and walking around feeling for air intrusion and fixing with weather striping, caulk, great stuff, etc. vs hiring a contractor.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  21. #7321
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,855
    FLIR camera on a cold day will find those intrusion points in a snap.

  22. #7322
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,761
    Your AQI sensor is off.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  23. #7323
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,591
    Quote Originally Posted by neufox47 View Post
    Anyone have experience sealing their house? I’m looking to significantly reduce outside air intrusion primarily for when it is smokey but also for efficiency. I have a 3 year old who has mild asthma, I have mild asthma, and it bugs both of us. I currently have about 6 air purifiers running but on the worst days out indoor AQI sensor said it was 200+ (outside was 1500).

    House has a ventilated crawl space and ventilated attic. Also has a louvered whole house fan (these three things kinda makes me think I might be pissing into the wind). I’m debating between the DIY of turning on the WHF and walking around feeling for air intrusion and fixing with weather striping, caulk, great stuff, etc. vs hiring a contractor.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    We had our attic floor sealed with expanding foam insulation and it made a big difference. I don't know why it would be an issue to seal the interface between your living space and the attic/crawlspace while still leaving those areas ventilated. The louvered whole house fan seems like a problem though. I'm just a dentist, but seems like you'd need to block that off during times of bad AQI. Is there a single large exhaust into the attic for the whole house fan?

  24. #7324
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    13,343
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Your AQI sensor is off.
    I'm guessing it's a decimal place. 20 and 150

  25. #7325
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,591
    We had 150 outside for a few days earlier this week and it sucked. We were using N95s just to walk the dog for 15 minutes. So 200 inside sounded pretty crappy, AQI sensor being off makes more sense.

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