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  1. #5076
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Tahoe-ish
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    1,707
    Quote Originally Posted by Buster Highmen View Post
    For new construction, what's the options for diy insulation in 2x6 walls?
    I have had experience with fibglass bats. Hate that shit.
    Spray foam is crazy chemicals and will cost you more than your shed is worth.

    Cutting rigid foam to fit the stud bays will take ages and you'll end up with a million tiny gaps, negating any hoped-for R value increase.

    Suck it up and do a good job with R-23 fiberglass batts. Get one of those long extendible razor knives, wear long sleeves and a mask, and it will only take a day. There's a reason almost all new construction is insulated with fiberglass.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  2. #5077
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    13,937
    Isn't this an illegal building? The spray foam guys may talk.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  3. #5078
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
    Posts
    2,561
    A building that small I'd go with two inch XPS insulation roughly cut to the stud base. Then you follow up with a can of great stuff and hit any little gaps

  4. #5079
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
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    14,371
    It’s fucking 2x6 walls. In a man cave shed.

    Install batts and be done with it.

    The shit doesn’t itch like it used to decades ago.
    Quick, cheap, easy.
    “I’m a subhuman jizz monkey”

    Thx mods. It’s an awesome signature.

  5. #5080
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
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    4,619
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    It’s fucking 2x6 walls. In a man cave shed.

    Install batts and be done with it.

    The shit doesn’t itch like it used to decades ago.
    Quick, cheap, easy.
    This.

    Wtf.

    Just wear gloves and long sleeves. You will have that thing insulated in 20min.


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  6. #5081
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    13,347
    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    There's a reason almost all new construction is insulated with fiberglass.
    Pure laziness? A lack of long-term vision? Simple DGAF?

    There are lots of reasons; none of them good.

  7. #5082
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    15,838
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Pure laziness? A lack of long-term vision? Simple DGAF?

    There are lots of reasons; none of them good.
    the cheapest thing to stick in the pro forma



    apropos of nothing....we have a truism here in the office (others may say this too; it's def not unique to us) to keep building strategies in perspective: "Code minimum is the worst possible construction standard you are legally allowed to build."

  8. #5083
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buster Highmen View Post
    It's a tiny shack, 10'x12', 2 story.
    I love corbond, it literally glues a house together, which you may want to strongly consider in this particular case.

  9. #5084
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    1,065
    My only experience with DIY foam was a Home Depot kit for sealing the sill in our house. Seemed to work fine. For a 10x12 if you want to try the DIY you could do a “flash and batt”. You spray an inch or two in the 2x6 cavity for air sealing and then use R-11/13 batts.

  10. #5085
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    righthere/rightnow
    Posts
    2,547
    Any recommendations for a pressure washer?

  11. #5086
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    222
    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    Cutting rigid foam to fit the stud bays will take ages and you'll end up with a million tiny gaps, negating any hoped-for R value increase.

    Suck it up and do a good job with R-23 fiberglass batts. Get one of those long extendible razor knives, wear long sleeves and a mask, and it will only take a day. There's a reason almost all new construction is insulated with fiberglass.
    Well, you could always get the absolute cheapest table saw you can find and start ripping those foam panels into 16" widths. Won't take that long, but that saw will be covered in foam particles forever afterward. When you install the panels, you'll still need to hit the 1/4" cracks with spray foam to seal gaps.

    Or just roll batts like everyone else would. It is the most economical solution.
    Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp

  12. #5087
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    13,937
    Quote Originally Posted by mud View Post
    Any recommendations for a pressure washer?
    For home, the Ryobi with the Honda motor.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  13. #5088
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Before
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    24,504
    Quote Originally Posted by mud View Post
    Any recommendations for a pressure washer?
    We have an electric one that works well for cleaning our deck.
    It's a Pacific Hydrostar, runs off 120.

    Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
    >>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<

  14. #5089
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    10,364
    Quote Originally Posted by mud View Post
    Any recommendations for a pressure washer?
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    Honda motor.
    Honda GX series engines are better (and obviously more expensive) than GC.

    Not letting it idle too much when the trigger isn't pulled will prolong its life.

    Ethanol-free gas is better for air-cooled small engines.

  15. #5090
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    righthere/rightnow
    Posts
    2,547
    Good call on a Honda, looks like there are a few companies that use their engines.
    Damn shit is expensive.

  16. #5091
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Before
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    24,504
    Tyvek before or after the roof is on?
    Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
    >>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<

  17. #5092
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    13,937
    Whatever you do, don't put the Tyvek upside down.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  18. #5093
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,347
    Quote Originally Posted by Buster Highmen View Post
    Tyvek before or after the roof is on?
    It makes zero difference but look into proper flashing details with tyvek and window wrap, etc.

  19. #5094
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    4,619
    Quote Originally Posted by mud View Post
    Any recommendations for a pressure washer?
    What’s the use?

    Do you want to remove material with it or just deep clean?


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  20. #5095
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1,596
    I've got a roof venting and insulation question for folks. I'm helping a buddy with a remodel that he is doing on his house. He is turning a section of porch into a mudroom. The porch roof is made with exposed 2x10s. He has framed in walls using the existing footprint of the porch but is now stumped on what to do with his roof insulation and venting. The roof is currently unvented.

    Since we live in cold snow country I figure he's gotta do some research on the necessary insulation thickness then sister in 2xs of some sort to increase the depth of insulation. Where I am struggling is what to do for venting at the upper end of the roof. Drilling bird block holes and adding hardware cloth into the blocking at the lower end is straight forward but I'm totally lost on what to advise at the upper end where it connects to the house.

    Does anyone have advice for what type of venting to use and what the terminology I should be using in my internet searching for advice on what to use?

    Edit: Current roofing is metal with a stucco wall above. I'm thinking something like this is the ticket but could still use any advice. https://www.metalera.com/Products/De...eets-High-Wall

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  21. #5096
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    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not DJSapp View Post
    Well, you could always get the absolute cheapest table saw you can find and start ripping those foam panels into 16" widths. Won't take that long, but that saw will be covered in foam particles forever afterward. When you install the panels, you'll still need to hit the 1/4" cracks with spray foam to seal gaps.

    Or just roll batts like everyone else would. It is the most economical solution.
    A lot of the foam panels are pre-dimpled at 16” width and snap over a knee easily. The blue XPS for example…


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  22. #5097
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,479
    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    I've got a roof venting and insulation question for folks. I'm helping a buddy with a remodel that he is doing on his house. He is turning a section of porch into a mudroom. The porch roof is made with exposed 2x10s. He has framed in walls using the existing footprint of the porch but is now stumped on what to do with his roof insulation and venting. The roof is currently unvented.

    Since we live in cold snow country I figure he's gotta do some research on the necessary insulation thickness then sister in 2xs of some sort to increase the depth of insulation. Where I am struggling is what to do for venting at the upper end of the roof. Drilling bird block holes and adding hardware cloth into the blocking at the lower end is straight forward but I'm totally lost on what to advise at the upper end where it connects to the house.

    Does anyone have advice for what type of venting to use and what the terminology I should be using in my internet searching for advice on what to use?

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    Superinsulate it.
    Ace will have details.
    Or Google unvented superinsulated roof

  23. #5098
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    13,347
    Is he trying to keep the rafters exposed inside the mudroom?

  24. #5099
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1,596
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Is he trying to keep the rafters exposed inside the mudroom?
    No. Hang drywall from them and insulate between them with fiberglass batts.

  25. #5100
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    14,371
    If you use closed cell sprayfoam you don’t need vents.

    Then again, it’s a small area. With no vents and batts, worst case is shingles don’t last as long and sheathing delams. So why worry.

    Rigid foam with spray can foam around the gaps wouldn’t be a bad call.
    “I’m a subhuman jizz monkey”

    Thx mods. It’s an awesome signature.

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