Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[tuco]

I did not realize that the ruff ruder was attachable. The only pics I'd seen looked like it was a non screw on. That's cool. I'ma order one and see how it goes. Fixing to Penofin a big house next week.

Oddly, I have never seen a single one here. I may be on the local cutting edge soon.

Thompson's is generally regarded as an entry level product at best and most workers avoid it. Yet many diy'ers have decent results with it.
I think KQ has used it at her place, which always looks buffed out.

Anything to spray it on will help. An old broken down wagner may be better than brushing it all on and God forbid if the product is thick or sticky. Slow brushing then.
Sometimes buying a cheap wagner is best. I consider it a throwaway. Works fine to flood the surface. Usually obnoxiously loud tho...

Flood the top mostly and brush to the dryer spots. Flooding the bottom 12" will likely put a lot of product on the ground.
Juicy is the key. Brush overloading on the back brush? Dump it on the next dry board.

Cool! I'll give you a little rig rundown when I'm around those tools again.. There is a slight learning curve. But literally one pass(courtesy wipe in opposite direction is always a good idea tho) and the stain is worked in!
Don't see many round here either. Was turned onto them by an old timer yrs and yrs ago.

I seem to remember KQ mentioning Flood CWF as the product used on her place.

Problem w/ Wagner power painter is it only holds a qt. That goes real quick on a thirsty ass fence. Which means, you're always fucking around refilling the damn cup. Bug sprayers you'll just plain be fuckin w) all the time and they don't put out a consistent pattern. Just rent an airless(job size dependant), turn the pressure all the way down to where the machine can keep up w/ fluid demand. Since you're not spraying finish, put the gun much closer to the substrate so you're not fogging the whole neighborhood. Stain will carry wet for quite a distance.
Also, save those Amazon boxes so you can route them under your fence pickets to catch drips n shit

[fatnslow]

About windows: I have a cracked window (the sliding part), and I've never dealt with anything like this. I'm afraid of getting fleeced - is it possible to just replace the sliding half?

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Is it a vinyl window ?

[tuco]

About windows: I have a cracked window (the sliding part), and I've never dealt with anything like this. I'm afraid of getting fleeced - is it possible to just replace the sliding half?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

Call Sugar house Glass(or a glass shop closer to you) and have them replace the pane within the slider

[tgapp]

Call Sugar house Glass(or a glass shop closer to you) and have them replace the pane within the slider

Okay cool, this is exactly what I needed, sorry for the dumb question

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[Core Shot]

Okay cool, this is exactly what I needed, sorry for the dumb question

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It’s not a dumb question. Save some money if you’re handy.

It’s vinyl or aluminum.
Put the window in the middle and lift up and out.

Remove diagonal opposite screws. Use a wood block to nock the frame off the glass. Measure exactly. Order glass only. Profit.

PS. It’s also possible it’s a vinyl window with plastic trim holding it in. Those suck more. But most sliders are nock apart.

If it’s too much, at least call a glass shop and bring it in for them to measure. Road rates are much higher than in shop.

[fatnslow]

If you have vertical vinyl windows, I lived with mine for 10 years and didn't know how easy they come out. Makes cleaning them much easier as well. I don't think they charge too much to replace if you bring it in and they can measure to order the correct size. If you really want to be cheap you can order on-line and replace yourself. https://www.onedayglass.com/order-online/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsauGER0wow

[nickwm21]

Obligatory

https://youtu.be/QZTt8PxEwbo


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[liv2ski]

My daughter has a duplex that was made in the late 40's with wood siding. I painted both units 4 years ago for her and the sunny side on the front house needed to be seriously scraped, sanded and power washed again to get rid of the 8+ layers of old failing paint. I am ready to primer the wood. In CA you have a hard time getting oil paints, so what would the "Painting Pros" out there recommend that has great adhesion and sealing properties for the old paint still left on 50% of the boards. The Sherwin Williams Prime RX Seal Bond is out locally, so now what?

[AdironRider]

You could strip it down?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Metabo-Pa...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

My pro painter bud says using one of these is not enjoyable, but it will work. You'll be sanding with 60 and 120 to get it paintable.

[tuco]

My daughter has a duplex that was made in the late 40's with wood siding. I painted both units 4 years ago for her and the sunny side on the front house needed to be seriously scraped, sanded and power washed again to get rid of the 8+ layers of old failing paint. I am ready to primer the wood. In CA you have a hard time getting oil paints, so what would the "Painting Pros" out there recommend that has great adhesion and sealing properties for the old paint still left on 50% of the boards. The Sherwin Williams Prime RX Seal Bond is out locally, so now what?

Zinsser Peel Stop Triple Thick

[jorion]

So, I’ve got a cheap metal shed in my backyard that’s rusted out and falling apart. I’m not exactly super handy but I’d like to take a crack at building a shed because I think (naively?) that it will be somewhat fun, I’ll save a bunch of money and maybe it will even look nicer than a tuff shed.

There’s a nice 10x8 foundation on cement piers that I’m going to reuse out of convenience. Also, the city’s building codes state a maximum size of 100 square feet and under 8’ tall for unpermitted structures or I’d go bigger. Some neighbors have larger ones that I highly doubt were permitted, but I don’t feel like risking it.

I really like the looks of this one and would like to emulate it:



But I live near the ocean and it’s insanely humid and foggy so corrugated metal is a no-go, as my existing shed demonstrates. I’d also like it to be dry enough inside that I can store down sleeping bags (in bins) and cardboard boxes without them getting mildew or falling apart.

If I properly wrap the walls with tyvek and do the rain screen design that that guy did, but use corrugated polycarbonate panels for the roof along with the plastic closure strips the big box stores sell with the roof panels, how much humidity am I keeping out? Same deal with the polycarbonate clerestory situation that that guy did. I also want to do a 2/12 lean-to roof since there’s never snow here and not a ton of rain other than the occasional insane atmospheric river that drops several inches of rain at once. (Need to keep the total height under 8’).

Am I missing anything obvious? Is trying to keep the space less humid than outside impossible without fully finishing it? Is there another solution I’m not considering? I watched a series of videos on a site that sells diy shed plans and think I have a good understanding of the process. I’m thinking I’ll get one of their plans but modify it since I don’t need a super steep roof since I’m not using shingles and don’t have to worry about snow.

[::: :::]

I live near the ocean

it will never be dry enough to store sleeping bags (never say never, but for the purposes of reasonable cost...) because you'd have to seal it & remove environmental humidity from every time the door opened...you'd be chasing your tail in a small shed. Find another spot for those items.
otherwise, sounds like a fun project

[old goat]

Like : said--you cannot keep humidity out. You can only remove it with--wait for it--a dehumidifier of some kind. And if the humidity doesn't get the sleeping bags the rodents will. They will find a way to get in, They will eat through the plastic bins. There will be some rat or squirrel family sleeping down the next winter. Sheds are for storing outdoor stuff.

[jorion]

OK, thanks for the reality check! Giving up on that makes it a lot simpler project.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Simple wireless light switch?

Doing some updates on a client's older condo. In one of the bedrooms the only wall mounted light switch is on the far side of the room, so you have to walk around the bed in the dark to turn on the wall mounted light. RF or bluetooth switch I can add to the wall when you enter the room to control the switch across the room wirelessly? I assume I would have to replace the actual existing switch with a kind that can be toggled physically AND wirelessly so either switch works.

Everything I am finding is some fancy ass Alexa crap with and app blah blah blah.

[Core Shot]

That used to be easy. But now it’s all app based crap.

Even if you find the switch you want it’s going to need a neutral. Check the box first. If it only breaks the circuit your only option is a smart bulb in the fixture and a battery transmitter stuck on the wall as you enter. And bypass the existing wall switch.

As for smart switches there’s a thread here. I’m still struggling with the best solution.

If it was an outlet I have seen plug in outlet switches and stick to the wall transmitters.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

That used to be easy. But now it’s all app based crap.

Even if you find the switch you want it’s going to need a neutral. Check the box first. If it only breaks the circuit your only option is a smart bulb in the fixture and a battery transmitter stuck on the wall as you enter. And bypass the existing wall switch.

As for smart switches there’s a thread here. I’m still struggling with the best solution.

If it was an outlet I have seen plug in outlet switches and stick to the wall transmitters.

Ok thanks. Yeah there are two bedside lamps as well. Maybe the easier solution is smart bulbs in each lamp controlled by a wireless switch.

Edit to add: Again everything I am finding is app based. This is a STR property. Needs some sort of physical wall switch. I suppose I could do wall switch to wirelessly control the outlets that the bedside lamps are plugged into. Then at night they will turn off the lamps at the lamp when going to sleep and not turn them on again the next AM. Walk into the room the following evening and the wall switch won't do anything......

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Seem's kinda cheepy but it's the easiest solution. Control the wall sconce light that's across the room.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Remo...555448945&th=1

[::: :::]

We had the electrician fuck up the wiring for the pendants in our studio (forgot the dimming control wire & he didn’t want to pay for redoing drywall in a cathedral ceiling around skylights) & put in a remote switch. I’ll see what it was (not app-based).

[Djongo Unchained]

Clap on, Clap off.

The Clapper.

[oldnew_guy]

Don’t most of these switches just need to be setup with an app and then never touched again?

[powdrhound]

These are working well for me.
Toe wires in, two wires out.
Put the switch anywhere.

[Vt-Freeheel]

My electricians use Lutron switches like this


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-C...Y-WH/314328456

[Iowagriz]

We have light/fan combo that you turn on with the switch but also has a remote. Could leave switch on and mount the remote near the door (with the ability to take the remote to bed).

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[Core Shot]

Seem's kinda cheepy but it's the easiest solution. Control the wall sconce light that's across the room.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Remo...555448945&th=1

Perfect.
It’s old school cheesy but it will work. As long as the bedside switch is left in the on position.
If it’s an STR might want to make that bed switch always on.