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  1. #6101
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    inpdx
    Posts
    20,200

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    My wife has used our sawzall (well, dewalt version) in the dirt pretty often. It’s held up for more than 15yrs now…beats the fuck out of the rip blades but just use the kind that go thru nails & they last better

  2. #6102
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,388
    Trg advice is my default for sure

    Good to know internals of sawzall must be sealed to some extent.

    cutting the root seems way easier than grinding or moving concrete. I've done a little concrete work but never a finished piece like a sidewalk.

    I only have some good quality new Diablo blades unfortunately. Cheaper than hiring it out though.

    Will post pics of the carnage tomorrow.

  3. #6103
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,141
    FWIW last winter I cut a ~3" diameter Chinese elm root and whatever else was in line with it down to about 24" about 3' from the trunk to build a stem wall for a sunroom. I believe I used an axe, but I might have just wailed away at it with a shovel. For sure, minimal care was taken. I also ruthlessly cut out a bunch of smaller roots that it had sent into one of my garden beds.

    The tree looked at least as good as ever this year. YYMV, of course.

    I love the sledgehammer drive the root out sideways idea. Of course there is zero chance for success, but I want to see the video.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  4. #6104
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,953
    I’m thinking a nice controller explosion will push that root out for you….

    Video required of course…..

  5. #6105
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,275
    Yeah most sawzalls are built for a demo environment although corded Milwaukee are my go to for heavy duty use. I have a shitty cordless dewalt that is sitting broken on my porch. Also only buy the axe demo blades(also Milwaukee I think) however diablo is my preferred brand for skilsaw.

    I am curious to see removal and how the concrete responds...

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  6. #6106
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    4,716
    I need help figuring out what tool would be best.

    I need to cutback cedar siding around a double door to make room for a nailing flange and new wider exterior trim. Keeping a strait line is obviously important. Can this be done just with my 7 1/4" circular saw at proper depth or is that gonna suck as much as sounds like? What would be better? I don't mind buying something to help as I have 2 more doors to redo this summer as well as 4 windows. All just have a 1/2" of trim so they need to be opened up more on the face.

    I'm betting I am off base but I am thinking something like a mini hand held tile saw with a wood blade would be easier to handle or maybe even just a 4 1/2" circular saw.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  7. #6107
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,779
    There is no right way to do it except removing the siding, because you are going to fuck up the house wrap and flashing. That said, if you are committed to going for it anyways, a skillsaw is the right tool for the job, and if you really want to have a nicely finished cut and aren't that great with a skill saw, you can make a straight edge (like with a factory-edge piece of plywood) that you can screw to the wall and use as a guide.

    Then you can finish the corners with one of these...I actually have the Harbor Freight model and it works perfectly fine (definitely not something that can be said about all HF tools).



    https://www.harborfreight.com/2-amp-...hoC12UQAvD_BwE

  8. #6108
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    2,442
    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    I need help figuring out what tool would be best.

    I need to cutback cedar siding around a double door to make room for a nailing flange and new wider exterior trim. Keeping a strait line is obviously important. Can this be done just with my 7 1/4" circular saw at proper depth or is that gonna suck as much as sounds like? What would be better? I don't mind buying something to help as I have 2 more doors to redo this summer as well as 4 windows. All just have a 1/2" of trim so they need to be opened up more on the face.

    I'm betting I am off base but I am thinking something like a mini hand held tile saw with a wood blade would be easier to handle or maybe even just a 4 1/2" circular saw.
    Screw a (straight) board into the siding to use as a guide.

  9. #6109
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,761

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    I need help figuring out what tool would be best.

    I need to cutback cedar siding around a double door to make room for a nailing flange and new wider exterior trim. Keeping a strait line is obviously important. Can this be done just with my 7 1/4" circular saw at proper depth or is that gonna suck as much as sounds like? What would be better? I don't mind buying something to help as I have 2 more doors to redo this summer as well as 4 windows. All just have a 1/2" of trim so they need to be opened up more on the face.

    I'm betting I am off base but I am thinking something like a mini hand held tile saw with a wood blade would be easier to handle or maybe even just a 4 1/2" circular saw.
    Yeah the mini circular saw, cordless would work well. I think the blade size is 3-3/8”. A corded skilsaw would be fine. Tack a straight piece of lumber up to use as a guide.

    Maybe an excuse to buy a nice tracksaw / plunge-saw?


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
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    Squaw Valley, USA

  10. #6110
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,054
    Home desperate sells Diablo pruning blades for any saws all.

    They are amazeballs
    . . .

  11. #6111
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    742
    I had zero luck with the HF multi tool. Ymmv

  12. #6112
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,779
    Why? I have only used it to undercut jambs and make detailed cuts in wood (like for the purpose described above, or to remove sections of trim) and it works perfectly fine for those purposes, as long as the blade is fresh (like any tool, really).

  13. #6113
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    关你屁事
    Posts
    9,533
    The biggest differences between the shitty harbor freight multi tool and a fein multimaster, is ease of changing blades (flip a lever on the fein) and vibration (fein is much easier on the elbow). Yes, I have both.

  14. #6114
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,749
    I have a Porter Cable and a Fein. The Porter Cable just sits in the box. I should sell it.

    Its little details too besides better vibration and balance, like the power cord on the Fein much longer and really flexible. The PC I need to drag out an extension cord and I'm wrestling with the cord all the time.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  15. #6115
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    7,919
    Wife is currently pricing carpet for a basement floor of our new place, which will replace existing 20ish year old carpet down there. I'd rather tile but it will be cold on the feet and I have zero desire to level the basement floor, which is why I suspect carpet is there in the first place. Good news is that there are no signs of flood or water on current carpet so that is good. Coming in at just under 4.25 a square installed which seems relatively reasonable.

    Any thoughts on the underlaying padding? I'm apt to buy the nice stuff with a moisture barrier on both sides thinking some moisture could wick through the concrete. Worth it?

    Also over under on if they actually show up on the 25th to measure, and then odds of likely them showing up within "about a month" to install it after. I'm not confident but we'll see I guess. Need it done by mid-March before movers show up with all our shit.
    Live Free or Die

  16. #6116
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,200
    Quote Originally Posted by AdironRider View Post
    Wife is currently pricing carpet for a basement floor of our new place, which will replace existing 20ish year old carpet down there. I'd rather tile but it will be cold on the feet and I have zero desire to level the basement floor, which is why I suspect carpet is there in the first place. Good news is that there are no signs of flood or water on current carpet so that is good. Coming in at just under 4.25 a square installed which seems relatively reasonable.

    Any thoughts on the underlaying padding? I'm apt to buy the nice stuff with a moisture barrier on both sides thinking some moisture could wick through the concrete. Worth it?

    Also over under on if they actually show up on the 25th to measure, and then odds of likely them showing up within "about a month" to install it after. I'm not confident but we'll see I guess. Need it done by mid-March before movers show up with all our shit.
    I often recommend Superseal dimpled membrane for basement floors that are suspect (can handle engineered wood or carpet [carpet tile not so much])
    https://www.superseal.ca/subfloor-me...mple-subfloor/

    can't comment on availability/timing

    you can even nail non-bearing partitions thru it for continuity across a slab

  17. #6117
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,663
    Quote Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum View Post
    A gas insert also gives you a second heat source, which can be handy if you have any trouble with the heat pump or just want to bump the heat in the primary living area.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app
    I was going to say the same thing. It's pretty common for windfall trees to take out power in my neighborhood, usually not for long, but we've had neighbors be cut off for a few days after big storms. In a situation like that, a natural gas fireplace is a nice backup, but yeah, tough to justify running NG to the house if you don't already have it.

  18. #6118
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    742
    HF multi tool would shake and loosen the blade right off no matter how hard I cranked it down. Bought a makita, miles better.

  19. #6119
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,141
    I haven't touched my Fein since obtaining one of the new 12V Milwaukee brushless multitools. It's incredibly good.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  20. #6120
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    late to the root cutting party, but I've cut a lot of those kinds of roots with 3 tools.

    1. sawzall with demo or diablo pruning blade. Only works well enough when surrounding dirt completely immobilizes root.

    2. Bosch 11316 EVS with clay spade. Only works well if roots are smaller than the one pictured, but is ruthlessly efficient otherwise.

    3. Some cheap electric chain saw that also came with an extension pole (Sun Joe I think?). This thing is awesome. You're not going to do any serious chainsaw work with it, but it makes quick work of roots like that.

    RE: oscillating tools, I haven't owned the Fein, but have been very happy with the Dremel version.

  21. #6121
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,450
    Sawzall with the pruning blade are great for quartering elk, too.

  22. #6122
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,779
    After a huge swing and a miss by the design/build firm we hired, we are pulling the plug on the major remodel we were going to do this summer and hiring a new architect to start from scratch, which means we are pushing the whole thing out at least a year. It fucking sucks. I am sick of our fucking house and its piece of shit bathrooms and kitchen, and its terrible insulation and shitty windows/doors.

    Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk. I feel better now.

  23. #6123
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,663
    Sorry to hear that Root, that sucks. Did you get to the build stage with the firm you fired, or were they polite enough to drop the ball in design stage before they started tearing stuff apart?

  24. #6124
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,779
    Luckily it was before we started construction, but after we had spent quite a bit on schematic design and construction documents. Basically they came back to us and told us their pricing was off at the initial design stage by > 75% even though we were sitting down with the design side AND the build side when they quoted that price.

    We might have figured out a way to pay for it but we felt we were already making significant sacrifices with the design we settled on so we told them to go ahead and take us off the schedule. They were super apologetic and have repeatedly offered to revisit the design process for free (or close to it) but I think they might just have too many people beating down the door to do million+++ projects and our project is just not the kind of thing they want to be doing any more. And, if that's the case, good for them, I guess?

  25. #6125
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,761
    Can you get the CAD backgrounds from the old designer and slide them to the new and save a few nickels?


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

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