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  1. #5026
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    17,754
    Quote Originally Posted by 3s View Post
    Personally i would wrap those 4 columns in drywall and texture
    Excellent idea. Iíve seen a lot of this model home and everyone tries to make the columns a feature. I donít get it It looks weird and disconnected. Not that I like the columns but we are painting them matte and same color to match the walls which I hope consolidates the room. Thanks for the feedback!

  2. #5027
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
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    10,947
    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    the other issue is whether you have a cold roof or not
    because retaining snow when it has a heat source just beneath it can be problematic too

    (i'm not helping here, sorry)

    there are companies that do these retrofit installs and should provide warrantable work, but they are going to limit the liability since they didn't install the roof -- my guess is any reasonable solution may involve installing blocking in between the attic joists & lagging through a little puddle of sealant to secure the guards wherever the module hits. Attaching purely to the sheetmetal would be a non-starter for me.
    hmm. This is getting into more complication than I was hoping for.

    About half of the roof is hot (albeit with good insulation), half is cold. Blocking in the attic joists isn't possible on the hot side of the roof (at least not without pulling the roof off). Sheet metal is attached to 1/2" (maybe 3/4" - not sure) OSB, which is attached to i-joists. So any rails / cleats would be into the OSB, although I could theoretically hit the i-joists (but realistically some of the roof ribs will be in the way of that).

    I was operating on the assumption that whatever I installed, I'd be gluing / sealing to the metal + roofing screws with rubber washers into the OSB.

  3. #5028
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,961
    Quote Originally Posted by 4matic View Post
    Excellent idea. Iíve seen a lot of this model home and everyone tries to make the columns a feature. I donít get it It looks weird and disconnected. Not that I like the columns but we are painting them matte and same color to match the walls which I hope consolidates the room. Thanks for the feedback!
    Many "great' interior ideas don't age beyond 10-15 years . Think of the miles of luxury vinyl tiles and engineered flooring that'll be getting ripped out in about 10 years. At least sheet rock and painting is relatively inexpensive.

  4. #5029
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    15,821
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I was operating on the assumption that whatever I installed, I'd be gluing / sealing to the metal + roofing screws with rubber washers into the OSB.
    That product is available, but, given your loading, it's not an optimal solution imho. That said, I'm a guy on the internet & not local to you. The specific product reps may disagree, and it IS worth asking them about seasonal movement & loading on the attachment points. Maybe they've got serviceable installs to point to that may demonstrate durability; or professional calcs/certifications to address the install suitability.

    My issue is metal roofs move a lot thru seasonal fluctuations. This is rough on fastener locations. Heavy loading just amplifies this.

  5. #5030
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,391
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Many "great' interior ideas don't age beyond 10-15 years . Think of the miles of luxury vinyl tiles and engineered flooring that'll be getting ripped out in about 10 years. At least sheet rock and painting is relatively inexpensive.
    Speaking of sheetrock. When we did a basement remodel we left the last 3.5" (4" pine base) short on the sheetrock. Totally saved my ass last week with Ida. Would've had a good few spots (floor isn't level just cement) that needed replacing with the flooding I had. If we ever have 3.5" of standing water in my basement I got bigger issues.

    Thankfully I know the water issues and just have to find time to fix. Too bad I might get another 2"+ tonight.

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  6. #5031
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,448
    My house growing up was built with sandstone, cut on-site. Water seeped into our basement any time there was rain. I spent a good amount of my youth sucking it up with a shop vac. Fill, dump, fill, dumpÖ.

    If it gets really bad, you can try a shop vac. Tedious but effective.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  7. #5032
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,391
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    My house growing up was built with sandstone, cut on-site. Water seeped into our basement any time there was rain. I spent a good amount of my youth sucking it up with a shop vac. Fill, dump, fill, dumpÖ.

    If it gets really bad, you can try a shop vac. Tedious but effective.
    In fact I found out something interesting from a friend. Some rigid shop vacs have a bottom discharge port. Rigid makes a pump that fits that port and hooks to hose. Essentially makes a shop vac a pump so no emptying.

    Mine does not have, but I bet I can sell mine for 3/4 the price of a new one on Facebook. It's nearly new. I think the pump is like $40. Easy solution for something that rarely happens. I'm going to fix the main issues but you never know and piece of mind is important.

    Probably going to add a water sensor on floor too, hook to wifi and get alerted.

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  8. #5033
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    sump pump is super easy

  9. #5034
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    10,334
    Yeah, I've done two of them this year. Someone in this thread recommended Zoeller, which was good advice. Their check valves are good too. Quiet as advertised.

  10. #5035
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    10,334
    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    OK, $950k, but that's as high as I'm going to go
    They're going to live in it, but crazy as it is, if they were to put it on the market right now, they'd probably get more.

  11. #5036
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    17,754
    I have a couple change requests for the painters. The ceilings need a bit more contrast so switching to plain ceiling white. It still needs work so that shouldn't be a problem. The kitchen island and fireplace surround also need a bit of contrast so requesting change there to. The island is not done and the surround will take 15 minutes. Going to use Iceberg for the contrast on the island and fp

    https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/...?color=2122-50

  12. #5037
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,961
    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    Speaking of sheetrock. When we did a basement remodel we left the last 3.5" (4" pine base) short on the sheetrock. Totally saved my ass last week with Ida. Would've had a good few spots (floor isn't level just cement) that needed replacing with the flooding I had. If we ever have 3.5" of standing water in my basement I got bigger issues.

    Thankfully I know the water issues and just have to find time to fix. Too bad I might get another 2"+ tonight.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app
    That's some smart planning. 3.5" is a lot of water. Maybe you should just put some velcro or easily removable licking system on your new base and just pull it when it starts flooding.

  13. #5038
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    base of the Bush
    Posts
    13,494
    Name:  241130714_2197129773758172_3067300440241498487_n.jpg
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    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

  14. #5039
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,391
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    That's some smart planning. 3.5" is a lot of water. Maybe you should just put some velcro or easily removable licking system on your new base and just pull it when it starts flooding.
    its just flat pine base. nothing fancy primed on all sides so should withstand a good amount of water and I dont expect to let water stand very long when it does get wet....still not a bad idea..
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  15. #5040
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Bethel, Maine
    Posts
    1,122
    Bathroom fan is damned close to burning out. Aside from going back in time and cleaning out the duff regularly (whoops), what do I need to know about replacement?

    The failing unit is a Nutone 695-R02 B, about 7.5" square (I'll have to get back on the stepladder and measure), rated for 70 CFM and 6.0 sones. I think I can find a direct replacement motor assembly for about $60 online, but there also seem to be other fans with higher CFM ratings and lower noise ratings. As much as a direct replacement would be nice, there are times it might be nice to hear what's going on outside the bathroom more clearly. Am I overcomplicating this, or is it worth considering a different fan model? Better energy efficiency would be nice, too, as this thing ends up with a decent number of hours between attempting to dry the room out after a shower and attempting to eliminate smells.

  16. #5041
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,036
    Quote Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum View Post
    Bathroom fan is damned close to burning out. Aside from going back in time and cleaning out the duff regularly (whoops), what do I need to know about replacement
    Just buy a new fan. I'm a believer that 100cfm is minimum for a bathroom (especially here in the PNWet). I also don't mind a louder fan as it "muffles" certain sounds that may occur in a bathroom. I've put all NuTone fans in my bathrooms and been very happy with their performance (for past 8 years). If you want a quiet one, a 100cfm, 1.0 scone NuTone is $90 at Home Depot.

  17. #5042
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    10,334
    Those old Broan / Nutone fans are pretty loud, and not all that great, but most (all) of the newer fans will require cutting a bigger hole. Though they have gotten much better over the years.

    You can order a new motor and fan directly from their website for many of the older models for the easy peasy changeout that's guaranteed to work, or you can get a cheaper motor from amazon/ebay/online appliance store that might not have the exact same hole pattern and/or spin the other way. If it does spin the other way, sometimes you can put the fan on upsidedown. Either way it's really easy, it just depends on how much tinkering you want to do.

    As for the sones, I'd be very skeptical of the claims. A lot of the noise is simply the air, and if you're just replacing the motor, the housing and cover will still be the same.

  18. #5043
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    SF & the Ho
    Posts
    6,680

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    x2 on broan/nutone replacement. Super easy to swap out. I didnít want to mess around w any additional work and the older model is the only one I know of that also has a decent heater element combined with it. Definitely not the quietest but that makes for good white noise when I really want to let one loose in there

  19. #5044
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sierra Foothills
    Posts
    556
    I replaced an old noisy fan with on one of the new fancy quiet ones. They are sooo nice. But I also had to rework the mounting and replace the duct with a larger size, but totally worth it IMO.

  20. #5045
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    upstate NY
    Posts
    1,805
    I was able to get just a replacement motor/fan for a broun so I didn't have to replace the whole unit

  21. #5046
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    10,334
    Another Homer car house. This one's (at least the second) reno turning a small house into a larger, stranger one.

    "Stuff that never goes out of style, like shag carpet, with dormers and eaves everywhere! I present the Persephone"

    Click image for larger version. 

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  22. #5047
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    6,482
    So many rooflines. Why.....

  23. #5048
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    192
    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    Name:  241130714_2197129773758172_3067300440241498487_n.jpg
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    That looks awkward
    I personally would have left the door with the windows on top
    Instead you should have just extended the side board windows to the bottom
    Even full glass pane doors arent windows all the way to the bottom
    Theres a kick there
    Cuz people tend to kick doors
    Not maliciously but still
    Right there at the bottom

  24. #5049
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    17,754

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    It looks so cool. Pictures canít capture. Painters love it. Columns have two coats. Walls one. Three total for all.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  25. #5050
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bellevue
    Posts
    6,623
    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Striker View Post
    Another Homer car house. This one's (at least the second) reno turning a small house into a larger, stranger one.

    "Stuff that never goes out of style, like shag carpet, with dormers and eaves everywhere! I present the Persephone"

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	384911
    That roof area with everything stacked on it looks like a perfect place to drink some beers.

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