Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[SkiLyft]

Chiming back in here... that wall was completely aesthetic.



Oh boy, blank canvas!!


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[dan_pdx]

I'm planning to repaint trim (baseboards and door frames), using alkyd paint over the existing semi-gloss latex paint. Can I get away with just scuff sanding the existing paint, or do I need to prime too?

[muted]

I agree that they are all too dark except maybe the far left lower. If the whole living room was any of those colors it may drive me crazy. Since we are quarantined here, my wife is hatching new projects, the details of which are super half baked.

Light green calms people in mental institutions, you may need that soon. probably called something like 'heavenly Headcase' at Benjamin Moore

[RootSkier]

I'm planning to repaint trim (baseboards and door frames), using alkyd paint over the existing semi-gloss latex paint. Can I get away with just scuff sanding the existing paint, or do I need to prime too?

why are you going to use oil paint? strictly for durability? still ain't worth painting with a respirator on, especially when you should be saving your filtered breaths for the coming apocalypse.

And KQ, definite thumbs up from me on the tool cabinet for kitchen purposes. I like this one for in a pantry-type space.



https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...YaAizoEALw_wcB

[dan_pdx]

why are you going to use oil paint? strictly for durability? still ain't worth painting with a respirator on, especially when you should be saving your filtered breaths for the coming apocalypse.

Yeah, I put in a built-in bench / shoe cubbies and I painted those with alkyd for durability - the baseboards run into the cubbies, so I want to use the same paint on everything. Typical "everything is connected" BS. I hadn't heard I needed a respirator for alkyd paint...? I'm brushing, not spraying and it didn't seem to be that bad from a VOC standpoint when I painted the cubbies.

[Garbowski]

I'm about to caulk a gap between floor and baseboard. It bows to the center of the room and the max gap is fairly big- 1/4" wide for a few feet. Do I need to bother with a backer rod or anything like that? Major draft area if that matters. Was just going to hit it with painters caulk.

[old goat]

I'm about to caulk a gap between floor and baseboard. It bows to the center of the room and the max gap is fairly big- 1/4" wide for a few feet. Do I need to bother with a backer rod or anything like that? Major draft area if that matters. Was just going to hit it with painters caulk.

Forgive me if I'm stating the obvious but I assume you're going to cover the caulk with a shoe moulding?

[Garbowski]

Forgive me if I'm stating the obvious but I assume you're going to cover the caulk with a shoe moulding?

Good point. This is in between the existing shoe moulding and the floor. Probably original so 120 years young.

I suppose I could/should replace the old shoe and make it less obvious but I think it may still be drafty. Then I’m in for some paint and probably new shoe as god knows how many coats of paint are on it. The worst section is behind our bed anyway.

[Skidog]

I'm about to caulk a gap between floor and baseboard. It bows to the center of the room and the max gap is fairly big- 1/4" wide for a few feet. Do I need to bother with a backer rod or anything like that? Major draft area if that matters. Was just going to hit it with painters caulk.

I'd just pump chaulk in.

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[wooley12]

In my 1850 converted barn I'd put whatever was handy in the crack to stop the draft and nail the toe molding to the the floor to bring it down if needed.

[RootSkier]

Caulk is almost never the right answer, but, as always: caulk and paint make it what it ain't.

[JimmyCarter]

Random Q for the construction types:

New TV on the way and looking to finally put up the wall mount for it.
- TV goes in built in entertainment center, backing is 1/2" plywood on studs.
- Studs (16 on center, vertical lines in pic) are off center (the "T" in the picture), and TV mount is only 16" wide so no way to overlap


Mount is

Do I:

(A) Make sure to hit one stud and use other screws into plywood?
(B) Mount into two studs off-center and use the movement of mount to angle it into place?
(C) Mount straight into the 1/2" plywood because that's strong enough to hold (55lb tv + 20 lb mount) or,
(D) Burn it all down and hope for insurance payout?

[Vt-Freeheel]

(C) 1/2" ply is more than adequate to hold your TV.

[tuco]

Caulk is almost never the right answer, but, as always: caulk and paint make it what it ain't.

" LOTS of caulk and a little paint, makes the carpenter what he ain't"

[tuco]

I'm about to caulk a gap between floor and baseboard. It bows to the center of the room and the max gap is fairly big- 1/4" wide for a few feet. Do I need to bother with a backer rod or anything like that? Major draft area if that matters. Was just going to hit it with painters caulk.

If it's over a floor that deflects(which I'm assuming it is), I would backer it. Way less chance of birdmouthing down the road and you'll get a much better seal.

[JimmyCarter]

(C) 1/2" ply is more than adequate to hold your TV.

Any concerns with articulating mount?

Screws or toggles?

[Vt-Freeheel]

Any concerns with articulating mount?

Screws or toggles?

I wouldn't worry about the articulating mount. Some of those short full threaded lags that usually come in the kit with properly pre drilled holes would suffice. Toggles just add unneeded hassle.

[JimmyCarter]

I wouldn't worry about the articulating mount. Some of those short full threaded lags that usually come in the kit with properly pre drilled holes would suffice. Toggles just add unneeded hassle.

Thanks. Beers on me if we survive COVID

[::: :::]

1/2 ply + lag screws doesn’t sound right (Lag screw strength is developed thru it’s depth of bearing. 1/2” doesn’t sound like enough.)

It may yet work, but that makes me nervous

[muted]

There are TV mounts that slide TVs left and right and require no angling. So you could use the studs and shift the TV exactly where you want it.

Not sure if we are both talking about the same thing with 'angling' though.

[Danno]

Very weird to have a TV mount that doesn't accommodate 16" spaced studs, regardless of whether they center on where you want the tv. Usually, the mount allows the position of the TV to be offset from where the mount needs to be placed. If your mount doesn't do this, I'd consider going to monoprice and getting a different one.

And an articulating mount drastically increases the weight load, it is no longer a 55# TV and a 20# mount, it's a lot more in effective weight.

[Vt-Freeheel]

1/2 ply + lag screws doesn’t sound right (Lag screw strength is developed thru it’s depth of bearing. 1/2” doesn’t sound like enough.)

It may yet work, but that makes me nervous

4 across the top, 2 in the bottom

And one will hit the off center stud top and bottom.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Lag screws into 1/2" sheer will hold it up.

Install the mount and hang on it for a test, I'll bet a six pack of good beer it holds.

[JimmyCarter]

1/2 ply + lag screws doesn’t sound right (Lag screw strength is developed thru it’s depth of bearing. 1/2” doesn’t sound like enough.)

It may yet work, but that makes me nervous

Can always put 2 3" lags into one stud just in case.

There are TV mounts that slide TVs left and right and require no angling. So you could use the studs and shift the TV exactly where you want it.

Not sure if we are both talking about the same thing with 'angling' though.

Mount is shown above - no clean "slide" but it can be pulled out and moved to the side (screen will be "flat" facing, not angled, but weight distribution would be off center)

[JimmyCarter]

Very weird to have a TV mount that doesn't accommodate 16" spaced studs, regardless of whether they center on where you want the tv. Usually, the mount allows the position of the TV to be offset from where the mount needs to be placed. If your mount doesn't do this, I'd consider going to monoprice and getting a different one.

And an articulating mount drastically increases the weight load, it is no longer a 55# TV and a 20# mount, it's a lot more in effective weight.

The mount accommodates 16"OC studs, its just 16" wide in total so it's off-center.
Mount is shown above - articulation would probably allow it to be centered from off-center studs, maybe at the expense of depth.