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  1. #4101
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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    17,472
    Quote Originally Posted by EWG View Post
    Sand - don’t use regular sand under your bricks. It’s like ball bearings and loves to settle and move. Use sand specifically for pavers. It’s jagged and holds together.

    This is pretty important.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Never heard of it. Good to know.

  2. #4102
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    3,393
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Never heard of it. Good to know.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/0-5-cu-f...8000/100343385

  3. #4103
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    5,643
    I had seen that the big boxes sell a lower mix and an upper mix. Crusher and sand for short. I’ve watched many instructional vids, but not getting the point of 4 inches of crusher. I’m not going to do that because
    A) don’t want to excavate
    B) don’t want to bring that much material through the house
    C) cost

    But wouldn’t mind hearing why it’s standard.

  4. #4104
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    livin the dream
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    4,497
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    I had seen that the big boxes sell a lower mix and an upper mix. Crusher and sand for short. I’ve watched many instructional vids, but not getting the point of 4 inches of crusher. I’m not going to do that because
    A) don’t want to excavate
    B) don’t want to bring that much material through the house
    C) cost

    But wouldn’t mind hearing why it’s standard.
    I’m sure a CE will chime in here with a better answer….

    Base rock:
    - drains well, without it you’d get erosion below the finished surface and that would cause issues in the long term
    - easy to get your elevation dialed
    - easy to compact

    If it was my house, and I was avoiding the off haul… I’d try to get away with 2” of 5/8 minus and 1/2” of paver sand. A clients house; I’d just do it by the book…


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  5. #4105
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    The Goods Department
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    1,092
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    I’m sure a CE will chime in here with a better answer….

    Base rock:
    - drains well, without it you’d get erosion below the finished surface and that would cause issues in the long term
    - easy to get your elevation dialed
    - easy to compact

    If it was my house, and I was avoiding the off haul… I’d try to get away with 2” of 5/8 minus and 1/2” of paver sand. A clients house; I’d just do it by the book…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    We prefer 3/4" screened rock as the subgrade below our concrete in Colorado.

    Drains well, compacts together. We have used road base in the past with success, its just the local stuff is full of clay and holds water.
    Skiing in the rockies is like 70's porn

    Lots of bush

    Some wood

    No faceshots...

    -Mtnlion

  6. #4106
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
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    1,092
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    Hmmm ok I’ll check that out size / cost of jumping jack. Would rather spend $100 on that vs 2 hours of pounding sand. Heh. Considered taking fence boards off but don’t want to break them since they’d prolly cost $30 a slat right now.

    What about polymeric sand for the joints filling when there’s no ability to blow it away and no hose? I could hand spray water on I suppose. Or maybe hook a waterbed attachment to a sink.
    Attachment 377518
    You have a small enough sf to use a hand tamper.

    Silica sand (poly sand) is a good choice to lock everything together, but it needs to be watered a few times to "lock" everything together.

    Silica sand also produces a haze on the stone depending on what you choose as final product.
    Skiing in the rockies is like 70's porn

    Lots of bush

    Some wood

    No faceshots...

    -Mtnlion

  7. #4107
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    9,791
    I was literally just going to type poly sand.

  8. #4108
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    3,393
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    I had seen that the big boxes sell a lower mix and an upper mix. Crusher and sand for short. I’ve watched many instructional vids, but not getting the point of 4 inches of crusher. I’m not going to do that because
    A) don’t want to excavate
    B) don’t want to bring that much material through the house
    C) cost

    But wouldn’t mind hearing why it’s standard.
    It essentially forms a raft that everything “floats” on when the underlying soil moves. Almost every soil profile moves around a bit with water and/or freeze/thaw cycles. The 4” forms a mat that helps bridge the differential movement and keep individual pieces of the patio from moving up and down independently.

  9. #4109
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    5,643
    Thanks for the knowledge base. That's a pun.

    Gave her the ins and outs of the options. Waffled a bit on the jumping jacks but decided to roll the dice without. It's really an odd little sitting area, and she's not planning on any keggers out there. (I asked twice)
    Not that I've done this before, but it now appears to me if there become any heavy divots, stones could be lifted and new sand added. That would be a big reason to go without polymeric sand. Also appears the poly sand would crack with much of any movement.
    I used weed barrier so not too worried about weeds.

    8x8 tamper was a bit more effective than I figured. 3" circle on the breaker bar was effective on the corners and edges.

    It rained hard last night which made campaction nice even though the clay mud was a hassle. This is the clay leveled and compacted, cloth laid, 1.5" paver base laid and compacted.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20210621_151353731.jpg 
Views:	100 
Size:	2.19 MB 
ID:	377624

    Having paver sand and stones deliver in a day or two.

  10. #4110
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    in a freezer in Italy
    Posts
    2,960
    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Striker View Post
    I was literally just going to type poly sand.
    Sure.

  11. #4111
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    Jun 2020
    Location
    in a freezer in Italy
    Posts
    2,960
    Rideski if you can get a little slope away from the house it would be good.

  12. #4112
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
    Posts
    2,464
    To think I payed a walkway with 4x6 pavers on raked gravel and drove a garden tractor on it in winter. 10+ years and minimal movement. Probably still there, parents sold the house a few summers ago.

  13. #4113
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    5,643
    I said leveled but I meant sloping at the same grade as the concrete. But certainly point out anything else I'm missing that's the point of all this. Wish I had room for extra base. But we're already almost as high as the concrete. Would have had to excavate, with buckets through the house. Flimsy planks on the fence are going to crack if I remove them.

    Back of napkin not knowing exactly what stones she will buy, looks like she's going to get this done time and materials for a grand. Lowest contractor bid was 5 grand. She's fairly estactic so far. Hopefully pleased at least when done.

  14. #4114
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    5,458
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Image1624333497.969005.jpg 
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ID:	377646
    How fucked am I with this?
    Shower wall. 7’ high. 5’ wide.
    Starting to panic.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  15. #4115
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    in a freezer in Italy
    Posts
    2,960
    A little hard to tell what's going on there. Water's leaking out under the glass block?

  16. #4116
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    A LSD Steakhouse somewhere in the Wasatch
    Posts
    12,519
    dremel out shitty grout
    regrout your glassblock tiles
    use a good grout sealer this time
    id consider run a matching sanded grout caulk at the base
    "When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
    "I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
    "THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
    "I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno

  17. #4117
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
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    5,458
    Quote Originally Posted by ötzi View Post
    A little hard to tell what's going on there. Water's leaking out under the glass block?
    Green mildew inside the grout. Grout is old but clean, seems like enough moisture and air have been getting in.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  18. #4118
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    13,258
    I think you're gonna need to redo the entire shower down to the studs.

    Yikes that's a sloppy grout job on the floor. Be careful when pulling that grout out for a repair that the glass bloc doesn't crack. I'd be inclined to work that by hand since its a small area. The oscillating tools will get the spot hot.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  19. #4119
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    3,403
    Maybe before getting the BFH try drying it out and then applying heat to kill the algae. The seal the grout. Just spit balling here..

  20. #4120
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    13,537
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Maybe before getting the BFH try drying it out and then applying heat to kill the algae. The seal the grout. Just spit balling here..
    bleach will work 100% to kill any fungus...no need for excess heat...obviously after you clean it out, let it dry before regrout.. that kinda goes without saying though.
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

    I wish i could be like SkiFishBum

  21. #4121
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    The Goods Department
    Posts
    1,092
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    Thanks for the knowledge base. That's a pun.

    Gave her the ins and outs of the options. Waffled a bit on the jumping jacks but decided to roll the dice without. It's really an odd little sitting area, and she's not planning on any keggers out there. (I asked twice)
    Not that I've done this before, but it now appears to me if there become any heavy divots, stones could be lifted and new sand added. That would be a big reason to go without polymeric sand. Also appears the poly sand would crack with much of any movement.
    I used weed barrier so not too worried about weeds.

    8x8 tamper was a bit more effective than I figured. 3" circle on the breaker bar was effective on the corners and edges.

    It rained hard last night which made campaction nice even though the clay mud was a hassle. This is the clay leveled and compacted, cloth laid, 1.5" paver base laid and compacted.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20210621_151353731.jpg 
Views:	100 
Size:	2.19 MB 
ID:	377624

    Having paver sand and stones deliver in a day or two.
    Where does the water drain with that concrete curb locking everything in?
    Skiing in the rockies is like 70's porn

    Lots of bush

    Some wood

    No faceshots...

    -Mtnlion

  22. #4122
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    PRB
    Posts
    26,080
    Anyone know where to get a (modern) front door on a reasonable timeline? We are in Boulder, willing to drive in the metro area, and having trouble finding a place that has any in stock.

    Relatedly, can anyone explain the difference between "pre-hung" and "slab" and how we can figure out exactly the correct size/type to order?
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "I'd eat a bag of Dicks and wash it down with a Coke any day." - iceman

  23. #4123
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,332
    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Anyone know where to get a (modern) front door on a reasonable timeline? We are in Boulder, willing to drive in the metro area, and having trouble finding a place that has any in stock.

    Relatedly, can anyone explain the difference between "pre-hung" and "slab" and how we can figure out exactly the correct size/type to order?
    If you're taking the existing door off its hinges and putting in a new door, you want a slab door. If you're removing the doorframe, you want a prehung door. Probably someone has some good tips for hanging a new slab door in an existing doorway; I struggled to get things as precise as needed.

  24. #4124
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    PRB
    Posts
    26,080
    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    If you're taking the existing door off its hinges and putting in a new door, you want a slab door. If you're removing the doorframe, you want a prehung door. Probably someone has some good tips for hanging a new slab door in an existing doorway; I struggled to get things as precise as needed.

    Awesome, thanks, that helps. We would be getting a handyman to do this (among other things), so someone with more skills than I have (which is pretty much everybody in the known universe).

    Now someone just needs to tell me how I can actually find a door in stock (or with a reasonable delivery time).
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "I'd eat a bag of Dicks and wash it down with a Coke any day." - iceman

  25. #4125
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    17,472
    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    If you're taking the existing door off its hinges and putting in a new door, you want a slab door. If you're removing the doorframe, you want a prehung door. Probably someone has some good tips for hanging a new slab door in an existing doorway; I struggled to get things as precise as needed.
    Our contractor a couple of years ago had all his carpenters quit on him without notice. The guy he hired to replace them took a prehung door and started by taking it off the hinges. Took him all day to hang it but it did turn out ok.

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