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  1. #4626
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    2,655
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    Thanks. $50-60 is closer to my price range.
    You're in the PDX metro, right? I have an older Bosch unit that you're welcome to borrow, LMK if you're interested. It's a red laser; it's not very bright though, so I think it would be tough to use outside on a sunny day.

  2. #4627
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
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    618
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    You are also going to need to R&R baseboard, which flooring subcontractors won't do. Are there other transitions/issues that need to be dealt with? Is it possible the cabinets are damaged? Even if not, do they need to be moved? Demand that the adjuster include estimates for ancillary work like that. And then demand that they include 20% on top of all the line items for general contractor overhead and profit, and make sure they don't depreciate the GCOP, and that they include it in full with the ACV payment. Also, be sure it is easy to source an exact match for the existing flooring. If not, they likely need to replace all of it. A "pretty good" match is not good enough.

    signed,

    A Guy Who Knows Way Too Much About How Safeco Handles GCOP in Homeowner Insurance Claims.
    On my claim with USAA, it included moving/replacing cabinets to repair floor underneath, removing/replacing/painting base boards and damaged walls, movers to take everything out of the level the flooring was on and lodging expenses since we could not be in the house during the refinishing. I was not considering any of those things as part of the claim initially, but my adjustor and the company they sent to bid the project added all of that into the estimate.

  3. #4628
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
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    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    You're in the PDX metro, right? I have an older Bosch unit that you're welcome to borrow, LMK if you're interested. It's a red laser; it's not very bright though, so I think it would be tough to use outside on a sunny day.
    Thanks for the offer! I will let you know.

  4. #4629
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    13,779
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    I am going to be replacing the decking on an existing deck. What is the correct board spacing if I am using a pressure treated Doug fir deck board? I know it varies with moisture of the board, but looking for a rule of thumb? (yeah, yeah, use a nicer material, not in the budget

    I’m west of the cascades so this deck will be wet most of the time.
    PT decking is usually soaking ass wet and will only shrink, so put it closer than you think. Maybe use a speed square for spacing.

  5. #4630
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    replcea that ^^ shit with something that isnt hardwood
    Don't listen to this moran.

  6. #4631
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,218
    I think I spaced it with a 10d nail last time I did one, but feel like it ended up spaced a little far, some sources recommend placing them tight to one another.

  7. #4632
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    [QUOTE=XXX-er;6382471]replcea that ^^ shit with something that isnt hardwood[/QUOT


    maybe 12x12 self adhesive vinyl tiles ?

  8. #4633
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    Mar 2009
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    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    No, but the last page is missing so it's hard to say. They should be adding 20% on top of each line item for overhead and profit.
    Can I pm the complete report to you ?

  9. #4634
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    Sure. Include your email address so I can send an example of what it should look like, if it doesn't.

  10. #4635
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Joisey
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    2,495
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    I think I spaced it with a 10d nail last time I did one, but feel like it ended up spaced a little far, some sources recommend placing them tight to one another.
    Not in the PNW but when I was researching new decking, I read that you install PT 5/4x6 with no spacing. But, be aware of kiln-dried after treatment (KDAT). That most likely won’t shrink as much.
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  11. #4636
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,410
    Quote Originally Posted by spanky View Post
    Be careful with RO water going through your refrigerator. I wanted to do this and my plumber said it’s a no go as the RO water is very corrosive to any copper lines or components in the refrigerator. If you’re all plastic after the RO system, you should be OK.
    Whole house is pex. We re did it all. Don't know about the fridge itself but 0 copper between well and RO.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #4637
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
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    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by spanky View Post
    Not in the PNW but when I was researching new decking, I read that you install PT 5/4x6 with no spacing. But, be aware of kiln-dried after treatment (KDAT). That most likely won’t shrink as much.
    The manufacturer/seller told me 3/16” -1/4” gap is the way to go.

  13. #4638
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
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    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    Whole house is pex. We re did it all. Don't know about the fridge itself but 0 copper between well and RO.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app
    Did you have a plumber do the pex install or did you DIY?

    I have a pretty simple plumbing situation with crawl space access to all of the fixtures and I am debating permitting and installing it myself.

  14. #4639
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,388
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    It’s PT decking, it’s not PT framing material.

    https://parr.com/products/elite-decking/
    They say it’s safe chemicals but hard to believe. How do you walk on that and then walk in house without tracking chems? Dog laying on it? I understand in the pnw you have extreme wetness, but just sayin.

  15. #4640
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    2,440
    Pex is easy-peasy. You can rent the crimper tool a HD.

  16. #4641
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,410
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    Did you have a plumber do the pex install or did you DIY?

    I have a pretty simple plumbing situation with crawl space access to all of the fixtures and I am debating permitting and installing it myself.
    Plumber, but only because remodel time was short and we had a lot of other work to complete, plus he did all new baseboard heat that we likely could not have handled easily.

    Pex isn't super hard to work with but need some special tools for fittings, etc.

    Good luck.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

  17. #4642
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    They say it’s safe chemicals but hard to believe. How do you walk on that and then walk in house without tracking chems? Dog laying on it? I understand in the pnw you have extreme wetness, but just sayin.
    Valid concerns. I looked into it when I did our last deck.

    Have you ever stained your deck? Are you sure the chemicals aren’t getting tracked into your house?

  18. #4643
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    [QUOTE=fatnslow;6383027]
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    replcea that ^^ shit with something that isnt hardwood[/QUOT


    maybe 12x12 self adhesive vinyl tiles ?
    something that won't be destroyed by water cuz there is a lot of water in a kitchen

    how bout hardwood in a bathroom lotsa water there so ya or nay ?

    or just have your insurance adjuster on speed dial and don't forget to send him an xmas card

    i have slate so I often rinse out beer cooler and just turn it upside down to dry, I'm thinkin nobody does that with hardwood ?
    Last edited by XXX-er; 08-20-2021 at 10:07 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #4644
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    Nov 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    The manufacturer/seller told me 3/16” -1/4” gap is the way to go.
    Wow. Kiln dried? I’m installing 5/4x4 mahogany right now with 3/16” gap. I’m in the NE, but 1/3 mile from the ocean. Not PNW wet, but definitely on the more humid side.
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  20. #4645
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
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    13,643
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    something that won't be destroyed by water cuz there is a lot of water in a kitchen

    how bout hardwood in a bathroom lotsa water there so ya or nay ?
    You know what's a good surface for kitchens and bathrooms? Linoleum.

  21. #4646
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    I get it but it's already there don't want to change materials and cause a fucked up transition. My preferred material is marmoleum for bathrooms and kitchens for durability and added resale value. Trying to change now and create a smooth transition would be a nightmare and not so cost effective. Fuck vinyl flooring or any engineered flooring, they can keep that shit for all the DIY channels.

  22. #4647
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    You know what's a good surface for kitchens and bathrooms? Linoleum.
    Do they make a Lino that is dentist grade ?

    Lino is low-end but it works and its even easy to clean

    what works on the high-end ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #4648
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    Nov 2005
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    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Lino is low-end but it works and its even easy to clean
    Linoleum is a high-end product these days. People often conflate cheap-ass vinyl with linoleum (Marmoleum is linoleum), but they don't know what they are talking about. I would link it for you but since the very beginning of this thread you have been singing the praises of shitty engineered flooring products while denigrating time-tested materials, so I won't waste my time.

    Also, your slate floors aren't waterproof. If you are regularly dumping water on them, you are probably getting whatever is underneath wet for extended periods of time.

  24. #4649
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    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    Truth. Pro installed marmoleum is tits.

  25. #4650
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,103
    I think we can agree that it's the most punk rock of all flooring.


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