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  1. #4601
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,054
    Quote Originally Posted by house View Post
    Here’s a spitball idea. Replace stoop with full house-width covered porch. Use existing gable (not a gable? Pointy top whatever) to establish top of roof hips to extend over porch. Not a trivial job, but you could probably live in the house comfortably while that is done.

    The heinous scalene triangle can stay, meaning less surgery on the existing house structure, but it would be invisible above the porch soffit.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    House has the answer. Hip hip hooray!

    User name checks out

    Crazy that that was the original build. Awkward
    . . .

  2. #4602
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,661
    Quote Originally Posted by Kailua_Boys View Post
    The house on the previous page looks a little weird but really isn't that big of a deal.
    I mean, tgapp is right that in the larger scheme of things, this is not a big deal. But it would get under my skin, especially for a place we might be for quite awhile. I got some local beta from Ted, and am going to pass on that place, but I do think that house's suggestion above is a possibility. There would still be some funkiness with the entrance and that window on the right, but at least that scalene triangle situation would be mitigated.

  3. #4603
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,141
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    Does anyone have a recommendation on a home owner grade laser level?

    I just need something simple for leveling floors, decks, pavers, etc. I can measure down to to figure grade, I’m not in production mode where it makes sense to have those features be built in.
    These are pretty nice. I rarely use my PLS lasers anymore. Huepar 3D Cross Line Self-leveling Laser Level 3 x 360 Green Beam Three-Plane Leveling and Alignment Laser Tool, Li-ion Battery with Type-C Charging Port & Hard Carry Case Included - B03CG Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081YYWYBC...P8RP1SJ3KX1GAQ

    They work well with the Huepar detector for exterior use.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  4. #4604
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Any hardwood experts here ? Not talking about der pooenhausen but some water damaged T&G. I had a refrigerator line leak that resulted in some HW floor cupping. It's only been about 10 days and can't tell how much it'll settle/dry. Had a insurance adjuster come by and he thinks it'll need to be replaced(cupped pieces) then whole floor sand/coat.
    My ONLY issue I'm having a tough time getting people out to get an estimate for a "repair" and don't want to get hosed on a low estimate from the insurance company. Any chance this might dry out to the pint of being able to sand/coat ? The irony is I had a claim on another house earlier this year and Travelers was really easy to deal with but this one(Safeco) has kind of been a dud. maybe it's the luck of the draw with the adjuster assignment. Renter was out of town for a few days an don't really know how lonmg the water ran. I need drywall/carpet in the room below as well.
    Fuck me, no claims in like 30 years of home ownership and two claims(different home/policy) in one year.Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #4605
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,761

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Re: Lasers

    I use the Bosch one they stock at HD. Green laser. 100’. Horz line, Vert line, vert dot.

    The tripod they sell sucks. If you have a camera tripod, just use that…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  6. #4606
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,054
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Any hardwood experts here ? Not talking about der pooenhausen but some water damaged T&G. I had a refrigerator line leak that resulted in some HW floor cupping. It's only been about 10 days and can't tell how much it'll settle/dry. Had a insurance adjuster come by and he thinks it'll need to be replaced(cupped pieces) then whole floor sand/coat.
    My ONLY issue I'm having a tough time getting people out to get an estimate for a "repair" and don't want to get hosed on a low estimate from the insurance company. Any chance this might dry out to the pint of being able to sand/coat ? The irony is I had a claim on another house earlier this year and Travelers was really easy to deal with but this one(Safeco) has kind of been a dud. maybe it's the luck of the draw with the adjuster assignment. Renter was out of town for a few days an don't really know how lonmg the water ran. I need drywall/carpet in the room below as well.
    Fuck me, no claims in like 30 years of home ownership and two claims(different home/policy) in one year.Click image for larger version. 

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    You’re fucked. You have to dry it ASAP to save it. Rescue mats are the best.

    At this point it’s fubar. Ten days is toast.

    Usually insurance money is enough. But not in this Labor and materials market.
    . . .

  7. #4607
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,749
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Re: Lasers

    I use the Bosch one they stock at HD. Green laser. 100’. Horz line, Vert line, vert dot.

    The tripod they sell sucks. If you have a camera tripod, just use that…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I can vouch for the Bosch...and get a camera tripod.

    Re: the floors.
    Those are nice quality. Do you know what the underlayment is?
    If that's ng then just sanding and refinish may feel springy and be squeeky.

    Looking at pictures I kinda think a flatten may require too much to be taken off to blend out.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  8. #4608
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,120
    I'm not an expert but I do know that the flooring is cupped because it's still wet underneath. Since you have drywall and carpet damage on the floor below I'd be concerned that there's hidden moisture and damage in the floor/ceiling that may not be apparent until the damaged flooring is removed and/or the damaged drywall is removed. There could be issues with the subfloor for example.
    Can you get a company that does flood restoration come in and tell you how much needs to be ripped out before the damage can be fully assessed. The adjuster can tell you what they think it should cost to repair the visible damage but not what invisible damage there might be.

  9. #4609
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,447
    R&R. It's gone.

  10. #4610
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    I'm not an expert but I do know that the flooring is cupped because it's still wet underneath. Since you have drywall and carpet damage on the floor below I'd be concerned that there's hidden moisture and damage in the floor/ceiling that may not be apparent until the damaged flooring is removed and/or the damaged drywall is removed. There could be issues with the subfloor for example.
    Can you get a company that does flood restoration come in and tell you how much needs to be ripped out before the damage can be fully assessed. The adjuster can tell you what they think it should cost to repair the visible damage but not what invisible damage there might be.
    I talked to a few hardwood guys and they both said it could take 4-5 weeks for everything to dry out and upto 6 months for the cupping to fully subside. I have taken moisture meter to the subfloor from under neath and it shows very low content ( I ran a dehumidifier(4 days ) and multiple fans(6 days) in the water damaged room below.
    I'm just curious if anyone here has experience of letting a wet t/g floor dry after some flooding and gotten away with a sand/finish.
    My plan is getting a couple estimates for market rate and waiting at least 6 months before attempting repair.

  11. #4611
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    replcea that ^^ shit with something that isnt hardwood
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #4612
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    618
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    I talked to a few hardwood guys and they both said it could take 4-5 weeks for everything to dry out and upto 6 months for the cupping to fully subside. I have taken moisture meter to the subfloor from under neath and it shows very low content ( I ran a dehumidifier(4 days ) and multiple fans(6 days) in the water damaged room below.
    I'm just curious if anyone here has experience of letting a wet t/g floor dry after some flooding and gotten away with a sand/finish.
    My plan is getting a couple estimates for market rate and waiting at least 6 months before attempting repair.
    I just went through this.... twice. First time it happened (roof leak) we had the boards replace and full floor refinished. Two months later our water line to the ice machine broke and literally the exact same boards were cupped again. Long story short, 7-8 months later and they dried out, flattened out, and now look nearly perfect. I can kind of feel a little uneveness between boards, but nobody just looking at it would ever know these boards were drastically cupped 8 months ago.

    I strongly recommend giving the boards 6+ months and seeing what it looks like. My experience was nobody will just repair the area; they will want to refinish the whole floor. Just give it time and you might not have to do a thing to it once it dries all the way out.

  13. #4613
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
    Posts
    13,654
    This is why I bought a fridge with no water/ice shit.

  14. #4614
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by cspringsposer View Post
    I just went through this.... twice. First time it happened (roof leak) we had the boards replace and full floor refinished. Two months later our water line to the ice machine broke and literally the exact same boards were cupped again. Long story short, 7-8 months later and they dried out, flattened out, and now look nearly perfect. I can kind of feel a little uneveness between boards, but nobody just looking at it would ever know these boards were drastically cupped 8 months ago.

    I strongly recommend giving the boards 6+ months and seeing what it looks like. My experience was nobody will just repair the area; they will want to refinish the whole floor. Just give it time and you might not have to do a thing to it once it dries all the way out.
    My main motivation is getting fair compensation for possible replacement of cupped boards and refinish IF it doesn't dry/flatten out. I had a similar seal at my personal house where she dishwasher drain leaked and had a spot that cupped that eventually flattened out but I didn't claim it with insurance. I think it took over a year to really flatten out. Just want make sure since I am filing a claim I'm treated fairly.
    I had a claim on another house this year that went very smooth with the adjuster(Travelers) but this one (Safeco)has been a PITA. The assigned adjuster is fucking useless, the field adjuster was very nice and professional but he's a contractor and just submits the damage report. All the actual processing and negotiation happens with the inside rep who has been very unprofessional.

  15. #4615
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    This is why I bought a fridge with no water/ice shit.
    The water and ice from these systems both taste like shit anyway...

  16. #4616
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,410
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    The water and ice from these systems both taste like shit anyway...
    Not if you run it through and RO filter first...that's what we do

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

  17. #4617
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Re: Lasers

    I use the Bosch one they stock at HD. Green laser. 100’. Horz line, Vert line, vert dot.

    The tripod they sell sucks. If you have a camera tripod, just use that…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Thanks. $50-60 is closer to my price range.

  18. #4618
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,779
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    My main motivation is getting fair compensation for possible replacement of cupped boards and refinish IF it doesn't dry/flatten out. I had a similar seal at my personal house where she dishwasher drain leaked and had a spot that cupped that eventually flattened out but I didn't claim it with insurance. I think it took over a year to really flatten out. Just want make sure since I am filing a claim I'm treated fairly.
    I had a claim on another house this year that went very smooth with the adjuster(Travelers) but this one (Safeco)has been a PITA. The assigned adjuster is fucking useless, the field adjuster was very nice and professional but he's a contractor and just submits the damage report. All the actual processing and negotiation happens with the inside rep who has been very unprofessional.
    You are also going to need to R&R baseboard, which flooring subcontractors won't do. Are there other transitions/issues that need to be dealt with? Is it possible the cabinets are damaged? Even if not, do they need to be moved? Demand that the adjuster include estimates for ancillary work like that. And then demand that they include 20% on top of all the line items for general contractor overhead and profit, and make sure they don't depreciate the GCOP, and that they include it in full with the ACV payment. Also, be sure it is easy to source an exact match for the existing flooring. If not, they likely need to replace all of it. A "pretty good" match is not good enough.

    signed,

    A Guy Who Knows Way Too Much About How Safeco Handles GCOP in Homeowner Insurance Claims.

  19. #4619
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Joisey
    Posts
    2,495
    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    Not if you run it through and RO filter first...that's what we do

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app
    Be careful with RO water going through your refrigerator. I wanted to do this and my plumber said it’s a no go as the RO water is very corrosive to any copper lines or components in the refrigerator. If you’re all plastic after the RO system, you should be OK.
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  20. #4620
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    You are also going to need to R&R baseboard, which flooring subcontractors won't do. Are there other transitions/issues that need to be dealt with? Is it possible the cabinets are damaged? Even if not, do they need to be moved? Demand that the adjuster include estimates for ancillary work like that. And then demand that they include 20% on top of all the line items for general contractor overhead and profit, and make sure they don't depreciate the GCOP, and that they include it in full with the ACV payment. Also, be sure it is easy to source an exact match for the existing flooring. If not, they likely need to replace all of it. A "pretty good" match is not good enough.

    signed,

    A Guy Who Knows Way Too Much About How Safeco Handles GCOP in Homeowner Insurance Claims.
    Does this look right ? [Untitled]_1908202114254200.pdf

  21. #4621
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,218
    I am going to be replacing the decking on an existing deck. What is the correct board spacing if I am using a pressure treated Doug fir deck board? I know it varies with moisture of the board, but looking for a rule of thumb? (yeah, yeah, use a nicer material, not in the budget

    I’m west of the cascades so this deck will be wet most of the time.

  22. #4622
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,779
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Does this look right ? [Untitled]_1908202114254200.pdf
    No, but the last page is missing so it's hard to say. They should be adding 20% on top of each line item for overhead and profit.

  23. #4623
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    I am going to be replacing the decking on an existing deck. What is the correct board spacing if I am using a pressure treated Doug fir deck board? I know it varies with moisture of the board, but looking for a rule of thumb? (yeah, yeah, use a nicer material, not in the budget

    I’m west of the cascades so this deck will be wet most of the time.
    Don't use PT for decking.

  24. #4624
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Don't use PT for decking.
    It’s PT decking, it’s not PT framing material.

    https://parr.com/products/elite-decking/

  25. #4625
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Gotcha. I've never seen that stuff.

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