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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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08-14-2021, 03:13 PM #4601
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08-14-2021, 03:26 PM #4602Registered User
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I mean, tgapp is right that in the larger scheme of things, this is not a big deal. But it would get under my skin, especially for a place we might be for quite awhile. I got some local beta from Ted, and am going to pass on that place, but I do think that house's suggestion above is a possibility. There would still be some funkiness with the entrance and that window on the right, but at least that scalene triangle situation would be mitigated.
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08-14-2021, 04:28 PM #4603one of those sickos
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These are pretty nice. I rarely use my PLS lasers anymore. Huepar 3D Cross Line Self-leveling Laser Level 3 x 360 Green Beam Three-Plane Leveling and Alignment Laser Tool, Li-ion Battery with Type-C Charging Port & Hard Carry Case Included - B03CG Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081YYWYBC...P8RP1SJ3KX1GAQ
They work well with the Huepar detector for exterior use.ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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08-18-2021, 12:19 PM #4604Registered User
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Any hardwood experts here ? Not talking about der pooenhausen but some water damaged T&G. I had a refrigerator line leak that resulted in some HW floor cupping. It's only been about 10 days and can't tell how much it'll settle/dry. Had a insurance adjuster come by and he thinks it'll need to be replaced(cupped pieces) then whole floor sand/coat.
My ONLY issue I'm having a tough time getting people out to get an estimate for a "repair" and don't want to get hosed on a low estimate from the insurance company. Any chance this might dry out to the pint of being able to sand/coat ? The irony is I had a claim on another house earlier this year and Travelers was really easy to deal with but this one(Safeco) has kind of been a dud. maybe it's the luck of the draw with the adjuster assignment. Renter was out of town for a few days an don't really know how lonmg the water ran. I need drywall/carpet in the room below as well.
Fuck me, no claims in like 30 years of home ownership and two claims(different home/policy) in one year.
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08-18-2021, 12:32 PM #4605
Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
Re: Lasers
I use the Bosch one they stock at HD. Green laser. 100’. Horz line, Vert line, vert dot.
The tripod they sell sucks. If you have a camera tripod, just use that…
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Squaw Valley, USA
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08-18-2021, 12:38 PM #4606
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08-18-2021, 12:48 PM #4607
I can vouch for the Bosch...and get a camera tripod.
Re: the floors.
Those are nice quality. Do you know what the underlayment is?
If that's ng then just sanding and refinish may feel springy and be squeeky.
Looking at pictures I kinda think a flatten may require too much to be taken off to blend out."timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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08-18-2021, 12:51 PM #4608
I'm not an expert but I do know that the flooring is cupped because it's still wet underneath. Since you have drywall and carpet damage on the floor below I'd be concerned that there's hidden moisture and damage in the floor/ceiling that may not be apparent until the damaged flooring is removed and/or the damaged drywall is removed. There could be issues with the subfloor for example.
Can you get a company that does flood restoration come in and tell you how much needs to be ripped out before the damage can be fully assessed. The adjuster can tell you what they think it should cost to repair the visible damage but not what invisible damage there might be.
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08-18-2021, 01:02 PM #4609
R&R. It's gone.
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08-18-2021, 05:47 PM #4610Registered User
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I talked to a few hardwood guys and they both said it could take 4-5 weeks for everything to dry out and upto 6 months for the cupping to fully subside. I have taken moisture meter to the subfloor from under neath and it shows very low content ( I ran a dehumidifier(4 days ) and multiple fans(6 days) in the water damaged room below.
I'm just curious if anyone here has experience of letting a wet t/g floor dry after some flooding and gotten away with a sand/finish.
My plan is getting a couple estimates for market rate and waiting at least 6 months before attempting repair.
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08-18-2021, 09:07 PM #4611Registered User
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replcea that ^^ shit with something that isnt hardwood
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-18-2021, 09:32 PM #4612
I just went through this.... twice. First time it happened (roof leak) we had the boards replace and full floor refinished. Two months later our water line to the ice machine broke and literally the exact same boards were cupped again. Long story short, 7-8 months later and they dried out, flattened out, and now look nearly perfect. I can kind of feel a little uneveness between boards, but nobody just looking at it would ever know these boards were drastically cupped 8 months ago.
I strongly recommend giving the boards 6+ months and seeing what it looks like. My experience was nobody will just repair the area; they will want to refinish the whole floor. Just give it time and you might not have to do a thing to it once it dries all the way out.
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08-18-2021, 09:39 PM #4613
This is why I bought a fridge with no water/ice shit.
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08-18-2021, 10:04 PM #4614Registered User
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My main motivation is getting fair compensation for possible replacement of cupped boards and refinish IF it doesn't dry/flatten out. I had a similar seal at my personal house where she dishwasher drain leaked and had a spot that cupped that eventually flattened out but I didn't claim it with insurance. I think it took over a year to really flatten out. Just want make sure since I am filing a claim I'm treated fairly.
I had a claim on another house this year that went very smooth with the adjuster(Travelers) but this one (Safeco)has been a PITA. The assigned adjuster is fucking useless, the field adjuster was very nice and professional but he's a contractor and just submits the damage report. All the actual processing and negotiation happens with the inside rep who has been very unprofessional.
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08-19-2021, 05:31 AM #4615
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08-19-2021, 06:08 AM #4616Banned
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Not if you run it through and RO filter first...that's what we do
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08-19-2021, 08:04 AM #4617______
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08-19-2021, 09:14 AM #4618
You are also going to need to R&R baseboard, which flooring subcontractors won't do. Are there other transitions/issues that need to be dealt with? Is it possible the cabinets are damaged? Even if not, do they need to be moved? Demand that the adjuster include estimates for ancillary work like that. And then demand that they include 20% on top of all the line items for general contractor overhead and profit, and make sure they don't depreciate the GCOP, and that they include it in full with the ACV payment. Also, be sure it is easy to source an exact match for the existing flooring. If not, they likely need to replace all of it. A "pretty good" match is not good enough.
signed,
A Guy Who Knows Way Too Much About How Safeco Handles GCOP in Homeowner Insurance Claims.
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08-19-2021, 09:17 AM #4619Because rich has nothing to do with money.
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08-19-2021, 10:22 AM #4620Registered User
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Does this look right ? [Untitled]_1908202114254200.pdf
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08-19-2021, 10:27 AM #4621______
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I am going to be replacing the decking on an existing deck. What is the correct board spacing if I am using a pressure treated Doug fir deck board? I know it varies with moisture of the board, but looking for a rule of thumb? (yeah, yeah, use a nicer material, not in the budget
I’m west of the cascades so this deck will be wet most of the time.
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08-19-2021, 11:10 AM #4622
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08-19-2021, 11:16 AM #4623
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08-19-2021, 11:18 AM #4624______
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It’s PT decking, it’s not PT framing material.
https://parr.com/products/elite-decking/
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08-19-2021, 11:22 AM #4625
Gotcha. I've never seen that stuff.
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