Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[lifelinksplit]

I'm not panicked on that. We're 8 weeks or more out from sheeting and these are all standard windows.

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Thank you for having your ducks in a row. I think having a homeowner who knows what they want and can make decisions is a HUGE factor in a project running smoothly and on time(and of course a good contractor). Even with standard sizes we were 4-6 weeks out on windows last project. The homeowners also thought it to be a good idea to put dressers,fixtures, and mattresses in the unfinished walk out basement weeks before we had a lid on, let alone dried in. Oh and this is spring in Montana. Spoiler, shit got wet.

I do need to tear out a fireplace and install a new blaze king. Gonna do a new tile for firewall and floor. Also need to order metal for the new shed roof I built. I better get on that. Oh and eventually the bathroom needs a mild renovation. I'm even considering cork...

[RootSkier]

I'm even considering cork...

[4matic]

Anyone familiar with hydronic heating retrofit?

https://www.warmboard.com/warmboard-...CAAEgJiPvD_BwE

[::: :::]

Do you already have a boiler?

[4matic]

No. How much space is required for a boiler? I’m assuming they can be fitted in an average garage.

[::: :::]

Be forewarned a boiler isn't cheap.
A boiler can be wall-mounted along with the pumps for each zone you might need
Boiler sticks out about a foot; it's prolly 18" wide & 30" high plus piping attachments
It needs to be near an exhaust location if it's gas fired, & near a floor drain for testing & condensate

With a top-of-subfloor system, consider existing door thresholds & door heights, base trim, floor finishes, maybe even ceiling heights if they're already low.

If you have a crawl space & wood subfloor, consider wirsbo in the joist cavity below as a more economical system. The one you linked is more efficient, but is pricier.

[4matic]

Thanks. Cost is ok at $15sf. It’s a luxury I want. My plan is a 2200sf~ late model ranch home and redo the whole house with hydronic. Ceiling height is definitely a concern but I assume most modern homes have decent ceiling height and I won’t notice it.

[::: :::]

typical door height is 80" in most homes...so, if you're taller than 6', you could notice

The other condition to look at is if you have floor height changes and any overlook conditions where the floor edge is exposed to the level below; the top step of a stair is an example; exterior doors to a (close to) flush patio; etc. Think about how the revised thickness works in those locations.

[4matic]

Thanks. Will only do it on level subfloor. No steps.

This might help with height savings. Thin porcelain

https://www.porcelanosa-usa.com/wp-c...ile-CEU_v4.pdf

[fatnslow]

Hey op, aren't you in SoCal ? Seems like the expense and height loss wouldn't make sense for a bit of comfort. You'll have much more than the $15 per square once you pay for a finish carpenter to make your house look right with all the transitions, doorways etc. My sister had it put in to the basement of their house where they poured concrete over the tubing BUT passed on the rest of the house. Their fucking boiler is a PITA
and expensive when it runs into any issues.

[4matic]

Good advice. The new construction homes at Palisades Squaw Valley use runtal hydronic baseboard radiators.
I’d get the same type of heat.


https://www.supplyhouse.com/Runtal-E...iABEgIwufD_BwE

[Foggy_Goggles]

The homeowners also thought it to be a good idea to put dressers,fixtures, and mattresses in the unfinished walk out basement weeks before we had a lid on, let alone dried in. Oh and this is spring in Montana. Spoiler, shit got wet.

You put one piece of furniture in the house before we paint, I load it into the truck and rent to customer a storage unit. They pay all costs including labor to move it. Then I call them on lunch and say, "good news, bring up all the furniture you want...you have a storage unit you are paying for now".

You sign the contract, I order the windows. I have decision dates for all finish selections in a spread sheet. After the contract is signed, I give them 10days regardless of when I'm gonna start. When they bitch I say, "The only way I can ensure the project is completed in an efficient manner is if you make all decisions ASAP". I've had delays on just about everything.

[iceman]

4M, read about radiant in the ceiling instead of the floor. I don't have any personal experience but it makes a lot of sense in theory for a number of reasons: . https://radiantcooling.com/radiant-c...radaint-floor/

[::: :::]

Thanks. Will only do it on level subfloor. No steps.

Not saying don’t do it on levels above; just have a plan for dealing with the edge condition cleanly

[::: :::]

I have decision dates for all finish selections in a spread sheet.

I’d like to think those are all decided before you sign a contract, but I know that’s not how most of the industry works

[fatnslow]

4M, read about radiant in the ceiling instead of the floor. I don't have any personal experience but it makes a lot of sense in theory for a number of reasons: . https://radiantcooling.com/radiant-c...radaint-floor/

This is kind of interesting. I have a friend whose house had radiant electrical heating in the ceiling from the 70's and it was essentially useless so I would have to see and feel it to believe it.

[4matic]

I will look into that. The thing about heated floor is that feeling on your feet. I have it my bathroom and it’s so soothing.

[iceman]

In theory the floor would get warm even with ceiling radiant since the radiant heats any surface it reaches and not the air in between. How well that works in practice I don't know for sure.

[::: :::]

In theory the floor would get warm even with ceiling radiant since the radiant heats any surface it reaches and not the air in between. How well that works in practice I don't know for sure.

True for infrared, not necessarily for hydronic radiant

[edit] the scientific principle is fine; IRL, floors work better for storing heat & locating comfort in the volume of the room in the right spot.
Ceilings work great for radiant cooling (tho radiant cooling is a tempering strategy, not a cooling strategy [it only does so much])

[lifelinksplit]

You put one piece of furniture in the house before we paint, I load it into the truck and rent to customer a storage unit. They pay all costs including labor to move it. Then I call them on lunch and say, "good news, bring up all the furniture you want...you have a storage unit you are paying for now".

You sign the contract, I order the windows. I have decision dates for all finish selections in a spread sheet. After the contract is signed, I give them 10days regardless of when I'm gonna start. When they bitch I say, "The only way I can ensure the project is completed in an efficient manner is if you make all decisions ASAP". I've had delays on just about everything.

I hear ya. I'm but a lowly carpenter and we warned them multiple times to not put anything in there. Honestly I thought the bigger issue was all the water that their structural posts(i.e. character logs, or super important point loads that cost a shit ton of money) were soaking up was a bigger issue. Meh what I do know.

[Foggy_Goggles]

I’d like to think those are all decided before you sign a contract, but I know that’s not how most of the industry works

'Round here most residential contracting is done on some type of Cost Plus basis not matter what you call it. Sometimes it looks like a "Fixed Price Contract" with a bunch of "Allowances". Nobody works for free anymore. Sometimes get potential customers to sign a "Pre-construction services contract" where they pay me by the hour ($75) to do a bunch of hand holding like telling you how to shop for counter tops. Honestly, the system is a bit fucked. Your GC is not your friend. Value aside, me spending my time to save you money isn't really in my best interest. I'm way more into being a subcontract trim carpenter these days because I get to just turn off the compressor and drop my tools at the end of the day. I sleep way better that when I have to deal with text, emails and overly emotional homeowners after hours. On the big customs, there is usually a designer (independent, paid by the homo like an architect or engineer) and a $100k/year (billable rate) project manager employed by the GC. Between these two, they can handle all the finish details. Once this model became in vogue, everyone stopped doing free consulting to get jobs.

"If it takes me time, it costs you money"

[Flounder]

Anyone familiar with hydronic heating retrofit?

https://www.warmboard.com/warmboard-...CAAEgJiPvD_BwE

I've used warm board on a few of projects including renovations of my house and my parents house. Haven't used the R panel, used the full 1 1/8" panels. In our house it was for a 2nd floor/attic where we added dormers. Had to use 3/8 flooring so I didn't have to change the stairs. For my folks it was a full gut of an 1890s farm house and addition so we were able to align all floor levels.

Product is great. I'm running water at about 105 degrees through the floor but the renovation include R50 ceilings and R30+ walls. Main floor has staple up radiant heat from basement and that water has to run at about 130-140 to heat the mass. Warm board does a much better job of distributing the heat and has a fast recovery time. Able to run a night time setback with no issues.

Warm board is really good about designing the layout for you. If your contractor doesn't have experience with it, make sure they understand how to read the plans and install the panels properly. My guys had to restart after screwing up the starter panels. Luckily I was there to read the plans for them.

Good luck, expensive but worth it.

[DJSapp]

Day 2.5: I think we're fully committed at this point

[skiballs]

I will look into that. The thing about heated floor is that feeling on your feet. I have it my bathroom and it’s so soothing.

I put radiant in the floor of the of the house I still own with the ex. Part of it was on an existing slab. You’ll need about 21/4” 1/2” insulation, must have a thermal break from the existing slab, 1 1/2” gybcrete there is a type made to distribute heat, 1/2”finish materials ceramic tile works the best. I’m gonna say somewhere in $30-35 per sq ft, with finishes.


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[iceman]

Day 2.5: I think we're fully committed at this point

Yeah it's a little late to stop now. Pretty wild-looking, like something took a bite out of it.