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  1. #8151
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    Foundation vents?

  2. #8152
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Foundation vents?
    Yes the fans are ducted to them. I didn't see any other normal vents without fans.

    Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

  3. #8153
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    Cool, ok..

    You need a sealed vapor barrier. Your crawlspace is considered an unvented area and no vapor barrier is a significant deficiency that should have been noted by the inspector. If you got a radon test and it came back high, the seller would have had to have one installed as part of the radon mitigation system.

    So you need to install a sealed vapor barrier, and the fans need to be continuously running. You also need a transfer grill into the living space. You can just cut a hole somewhere in the floor and put a 4x12 register on it and be good.

    You mentioned floor insulation, is that installed under the entire floor? I mention this because you need proper rim joist insulation. If you have unfaced batt insulation at the rim joists, you could have fungus behind that. Rim joists should be insulated with corbond.

    All of this should have been explained to you in the home inspection.

    Check out page 6-7 for a rundown. https://deq.mt.gov/files/Energy/Ener...ummary2021.pdf

  4. #8154
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    Ok yes, insulation under the entire floor. It's faced batt and it looks like shit. Some of it falling down. Some looks mildwey/maybe fungus. Didn't look that way at inspection in nice dry and cold March with 2 feet of snow in the yard and crawl space bone dry.

    Also radon was tested and was low/below threshold.

    GF and I already planned to remove all the batt when its dry in there later this summer. The space is only about 950sf so I could relatively easily put down new and properly sealed vapor barrier myself.

    Reasonable for me to at least for now cut a transfer vent into the hatch into the crawl space? Seems like the easiest and most sensible place to put it. Get some dryer air in there from above ground while the two fans run. Wait for dryer summer weather and then attack the rest.

  5. #8155
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    Another easy place is under a kitchen island or peninsula. Cut a hole in the floor from in the crawlspace, and then a 3x12 grill opening in the toe kick face. It's best to have it in the living area for proper air circulation, not closed up in a closet.

    Do you have hydronic floor heat? If you do you'll have to replace the floor insulation.

    If you don't and you're then just getting rid of the floor insulation, you'll have to insulate the rim joists. They have spray foam kits at home cheapo or lowes.

  6. #8156
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    No hyrdronic floor heat. Will take down the batt and do spray foam myself. Looks like almost $1200-1400 to get enough foam (three+ kits) to do the entire under floor/joist area of my crawlspace. Is it really cheaper than just having someone come in with a real rig and doing corbond?

  7. #8157
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    You only have to shoot the rim joists.

    For only doing rim joists, it is cheaper to diy.

  8. #8158
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    Nov 2002
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    Listen to this man. "Building Science " for crawlers in cold climates has been fucked up for years.

    There is finally some agreement that bringing the crawlspace within the conditioned building envelope is the way.

    Another thing to check is how the dirt drains to the sump and where the sump discharges to.

    I think that if you bring your VB up the walls and seal everything you can get rid of the exterior vents.

    Think about it like you are making a basement without the poured floor.

    Sent from my Turbo 850 Flatbrimed Highhorse

  9. #8159
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    Ok yeah. The sumps drain to a tiny creek thats literally 40 feet from the crawl space. The creek is owned by the golf course and its flow is controlled by them. Not sure how much that actually affect the water table. I doubt much at all though. The "creek" is like 3' wide and 12" deep when it's at full flow. Oddly there are two sumps about 25' apart and the one runs constantly and the second one basically never runs. I opened the one that doesn't run and checked the float and it definitely works. So the one that runs all the time must be just a hair deeper into the ground and fill up quicker. I mean it's running like every 4 or 5 MINUTES right now. The river is DEEP. The little creek is full. It's raining basically everyday. I'd have to imagine this is above average.

    I'm thinking if I go in I may as well do all new VB myself. Do I need to go up the walls if the walls already have foam sprayed on them? Sort of a weird deal since the crawl space connects to the neighbors. I suppose just vertical VB hung between our two spaces to keep their moisture out?

  10. #8160
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    6" up and sealed. You can use some foam mastic to seal against foam.

    Split cost with the neighbor and do the whole thing. If it's just a square under 2,000 SQ ft it won't take long once you're rolling.

  11. #8161
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    Well now I'm Contractor playing Realtor(tm) but isn't the crawl space a Common Element covered by the CCRs? I'd atleast want to be kicking the tires on that doc and talk with the neighbors. Do you have any HOA Reserves?

    Honestly, this is as big of a deal as you want to make it. Plenty of people would just look the other way.

    And look at your inspection report. Dude either sucks (at least in terms of representing you), or it was specifically excluded from the inspection.

    Sent from my Turbo 850 Flatbrimed Highhorse

  12. #8162
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    Townhome, should have at least a fire separation in the crawl but I don't know the age so I'll let that dog lay there. If it were a condo I'm sure there would be language in the governing docs, but not for a townhouse at least from my understanding.

  13. #8163
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    Anyone have experience or opinions regarding WeatherBrite windows? I had a sales rep come by my house yesterday. My house qualifies for an energy conservation rebate program and they said they can replace all of my windows and patio door (all of which are almost 20 years old now), do a whole-house negative pressure test, replace all of my attic insulation, and insulate any problem spots identified by the pressure test for $12k.

    They estimated that I'll save ~40% on my energy bills when it's all done. The window samples he had looked really nice. Seems like a pretty good deal, but almost too good so I want to do my homework before signing up. Link to the company below. Mostly positive Google reviews and I didn't get an overtly scammy vibe from the guy, FWIW. Thanks.

    https://www.usasuperior.com/energy-conservation/
    https://www.usasuperior.com/windows/

  14. #8164
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    How many SF is your attic and how many windows? We recently had a quote from a reputable contractor here for $4k to blow in additional insulation on our 25 year old house just to top off the low spots. He eventually said it probably wasn't worth it and wouldn't be noticeable on our bills or comfort.

    A 40% reduction in energy bills for $12k is hard to believe.

  15. #8165
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    We're finishing our basement this summer, it was suggested that we may not need insulation in the walls of the basement (we already have it in the basement ceilings. Thoughts?

    We live in Salt Lake City so it definitely gets hot in the summer, semi cold in the winter.

  16. #8166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post

    A 40% reduction in energy bills for $12k is hard to believe.
    I agree.

    Break even point on window replacement cost through energy savings takes decades. And why are they replacing insulation?

  17. #8167
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutah View Post
    We're finishing our basement this summer, it was suggested that we may not need insulation in the walls of the basement (we already have it in the basement ceilings. Thoughts?

    We live in Salt Lake City so it definitely gets hot in the summer, semi cold in the winter.
    I suggest you need it.

    https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/ins...in-basements_o

  18. #8168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    How many SF is your attic and how many windows? We recently had a quote from a reputable contractor here for $4k to blow in additional insulation on our 25 year old house just to top off the low spots. He eventually said it probably wasn't worth it and wouldn't be noticeable on our bills or comfort.

    A 40% reduction in energy bills for $12k is hard to believe.
    900 ft2 of attic space. 10 windows ranging in size from 4x8 to 2x2, plus the sliding patio door. The $12k cost is pretty heavily subsidized by rebates.
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    I agree.

    Break even point on window replacement cost through energy savings takes decades. And why are they replacing insulation?
    Even if the full energy savings estimate holds up I don't expect to break even on cost ever. It just seems like a really good deal to replace windows that are already close to needing be replacement. I'd rather pay $12k now than $20-25k in 5 years.

    My current attic insulation is 10 year old blown fiberglass that has settled a lot. They'll replace with cellulose fiber that supposedly won't settle over time like the fiberglass and has a higher R value.

    The house was built in the '70s and is pretty shittily insulated in general. I suspect that the pressure test will find a lot of low hanging fruit to pick.

  19. #8169
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    Need a bit of sparky advice. I currently have a subpanel that runs a single breaker double pole 20/20 that I use for a single Cadet heater that pulls at max 10 amps. I am trying to find a quadplex that I can use to run the Cadet with a 20/20 double pole and another double pole 20/20 for a mini split that peaks at 15 amps. The subpanel brand is a Murray with only ONE SLOT and the current breaker is a Murray MP-T 20/20, model MP-2020. Where can I go to get the appropriate part number IF a quadplex is even available ? The local supply house(Platt) wasn't much help.

  20. #8170
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    Yeah, shoot more fiberglass over that, you don't need to remove anything.

    Window replacement is good when they go to shit, a lot of people think replacing windows will miraculously save thousands of dollars in energy savings.

    You will save lots with caulk and spray foam on a 70's house. I'm living that life right now.

  21. #8171
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Need a bit of sparky advice. I currently have a subpanel that runs a single breaker double pole 20/20 that I use for a single Cadet heater that pulls at max 10 amps. I am trying to find a quadplex that I can use to run the Cadet with a 20/20 double pole and another double pole 20/20 for a mini split that peaks at 15 amps. The subpanel brand is a Murray with only ONE SLOT and the current breaker is a Murray MP-T 20/20, model MP-2020. Where can I go to get the appropriate part number IF a quadplex is even available ? The local supply house(Platt) wasn't much help.
    I imagine there are some 15A single pole circuits in there? Maybe you can swap out some 15A single breakers with tandems to open up some more room in the panel?

  22. #8172
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    It's a single slot subpanel that has ONE double pole 20/20. Trying to find out IF I can just replace with a quadplex and be done rather than replace the current one that accepts a quadplex. My house has a combo of glass screw in fuses and some breakers.

  23. #8173
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Window replacement is good when they go to shit, a lot of people think replacing windows will miraculously save thousands of dollars in energy savings.
    They're already on the verge of going to shit. They're not original aluminum windows or anything, but they are low-ish end vinyl windows that are coming up on two decades old. On really cold days we sometimes get some ice on the inside glass (inside the house, not between the panes). One of the basement windows has a big crack in it from kids doing stupid kid shit. The ones these guys would install are *much* nicer.

    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Yeah, shoot more fiberglass over that, you don't need to remove anything.

    You will save lots with caulk and spray foam on a 70's house. I'm living that life right now.
    If I were doing this myself that's definitely the route I would take. But, if I can get all the insulation stuff done on top of an already great price for new windows I'll happily take that deal.

  24. #8174
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    Never heard of that window company…
    I’d feel better about a direct-to-consumer replacement product line from a larger win mfr for reliability/ warranty issues 4/5yrs later

  25. #8175
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    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    Never heard of that window company…
    I’d feel better about a direct-to-consumer replacement product line from a larger win mfr for reliability/ warranty issues 4/5yrs later
    Lifetime warranty, FWIW: https://www.usasuperior.com/window-warranty/

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