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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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06-12-2020, 11:18 AM #2026Registered User
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Thank you for having your ducks in a row. I think having a homeowner who knows what they want and can make decisions is a HUGE factor in a project running smoothly and on time(and of course a good contractor). Even with standard sizes we were 4-6 weeks out on windows last project. The homeowners also thought it to be a good idea to put dressers,fixtures, and mattresses in the unfinished walk out basement weeks before we had a lid on, let alone dried in. Oh and this is spring in Montana. Spoiler, shit got wet.
I do need to tear out a fireplace and install a new blaze king. Gonna do a new tile for firewall and floor. Also need to order metal for the new shed roof I built. I better get on that. Oh and eventually the bathroom needs a mild renovation. I'm even considering cork...
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06-12-2020, 12:34 PM #2027
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06-12-2020, 02:32 PM #2028
Anyone familiar with hydronic heating retrofit?
https://www.warmboard.com/warmboard-...CAAEgJiPvD_BwE
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06-12-2020, 02:53 PM #2029
Do you already have a boiler?
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06-12-2020, 03:00 PM #2030
No. How much space is required for a boiler? I’m assuming they can be fitted in an average garage.
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06-12-2020, 03:11 PM #2031
Be forewarned a boiler isn't cheap.
A boiler can be wall-mounted along with the pumps for each zone you might need
Boiler sticks out about a foot; it's prolly 18" wide & 30" high plus piping attachments
It needs to be near an exhaust location if it's gas fired, & near a floor drain for testing & condensate
With a top-of-subfloor system, consider existing door thresholds & door heights, base trim, floor finishes, maybe even ceiling heights if they're already low.
If you have a crawl space & wood subfloor, consider wirsbo in the joist cavity below as a more economical system. The one you linked is more efficient, but is pricier.
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06-12-2020, 03:24 PM #2032
Thanks. Cost is ok at $15sf. It’s a luxury I want. My plan is a 2200sf~ late model ranch home and redo the whole house with hydronic. Ceiling height is definitely a concern but I assume most modern homes have decent ceiling height and I won’t notice it.
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06-12-2020, 04:05 PM #2033
typical door height is 80" in most homes...so, if you're taller than 6', you could notice
The other condition to look at is if you have floor height changes and any overlook conditions where the floor edge is exposed to the level below; the top step of a stair is an example; exterior doors to a (close to) flush patio; etc. Think about how the revised thickness works in those locations.
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06-12-2020, 05:02 PM #2034
Thanks. Will only do it on level subfloor. No steps.
This might help with height savings. Thin porcelain
https://www.porcelanosa-usa.com/wp-c...ile-CEU_v4.pdf
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06-12-2020, 05:07 PM #2035Registered User
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Hey op, aren't you in SoCal ? Seems like the expense and height loss wouldn't make sense for a bit of comfort. You'll have much more than the $15 per square once you pay for a finish carpenter to make your house look right with all the transitions, doorways etc. My sister had it put in to the basement of their house where they poured concrete over the tubing BUT passed on the rest of the house. Their fucking boiler is a PITA
and expensive when it runs into any issues.
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06-12-2020, 05:29 PM #2036
Good advice. The new construction homes at Palisades Squaw Valley use runtal hydronic baseboard radiators.
I’d get the same type of heat.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Runtal-E...iABEgIwufD_BwE
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06-12-2020, 05:57 PM #2037The homeowners also thought it to be a good idea to put dressers,fixtures, and mattresses in the unfinished walk out basement weeks before we had a lid on, let alone dried in. Oh and this is spring in Montana. Spoiler, shit got wet.
You sign the contract, I order the windows. I have decision dates for all finish selections in a spread sheet. After the contract is signed, I give them 10days regardless of when I'm gonna start. When they bitch I say, "The only way I can ensure the project is completed in an efficient manner is if you make all decisions ASAP". I've had delays on just about everything.
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06-12-2020, 06:48 PM #2038Funky But Chic
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4M, read about radiant in the ceiling instead of the floor. I don't have any personal experience but it makes a lot of sense in theory for a number of reasons: . https://radiantcooling.com/radiant-c...radaint-floor/
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06-12-2020, 06:49 PM #2039
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06-12-2020, 06:51 PM #2040
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06-12-2020, 06:52 PM #2041Registered User
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06-12-2020, 06:56 PM #2042
Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
I will look into that. The thing about heated floor is that feeling on your feet. I have it my bathroom and it’s so soothing.
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06-12-2020, 07:00 PM #2043Funky But Chic
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In theory the floor would get warm even with ceiling radiant since the radiant heats any surface it reaches and not the air in between. How well that works in practice I don't know for sure.
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06-12-2020, 07:03 PM #2044
Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
True for infrared, not necessarily for hydronic radiant
[edit] the scientific principle is fine; IRL, floors work better for storing heat & locating comfort in the volume of the room in the right spot.
Ceilings work great for radiant cooling (tho radiant cooling is a tempering strategy, not a cooling strategy [it only does so much])Last edited by ::: :::; 06-13-2020 at 09:33 AM.
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06-12-2020, 08:44 PM #2045Registered User
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I hear ya. I'm but a lowly carpenter and we warned them multiple times to not put anything in there. Honestly I thought the bigger issue was all the water that their structural posts(i.e. character logs, or super important point loads that cost a shit ton of money) were soaking up was a bigger issue. Meh what I do know.
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06-13-2020, 06:42 AM #2046I’d like to think those are all decided before you sign a contract, but I know that’s not how most of the industry works
"If it takes me time, it costs you money"
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06-13-2020, 08:31 AM #2047Registered User
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I've used warm board on a few of projects including renovations of my house and my parents house. Haven't used the R panel, used the full 1 1/8" panels. In our house it was for a 2nd floor/attic where we added dormers. Had to use 3/8 flooring so I didn't have to change the stairs. For my folks it was a full gut of an 1890s farm house and addition so we were able to align all floor levels.
Product is great. I'm running water at about 105 degrees through the floor but the renovation include R50 ceilings and R30+ walls. Main floor has staple up radiant heat from basement and that water has to run at about 130-140 to heat the mass. Warm board does a much better job of distributing the heat and has a fast recovery time. Able to run a night time setback with no issues.
Warm board is really good about designing the layout for you. If your contractor doesn't have experience with it, make sure they understand how to read the plans and install the panels properly. My guys had to restart after screwing up the starter panels. Luckily I was there to read the plans for them.
Good luck, expensive but worth it.
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06-19-2020, 02:26 PM #2048
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06-19-2020, 03:04 PM #2049
I put radiant in the floor of the of the house I still own with the ex. Part of it was on an existing slab. You’ll need about 21/4” 1/2” insulation, must have a thermal break from the existing slab, 1 1/2” gybcrete there is a type made to distribute heat, 1/2”finish materials ceramic tile works the best. I’m gonna say somewhere in $30-35 per sq ft, with finishes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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06-19-2020, 03:23 PM #2050Funky But Chic
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