Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[skaredshtles]

<snip>

No idea why he sheetrocked in the cabinets like this
Attachment 367892

WTF is going on to the left of the dishwasher?

[glademaster]

That place out Portland-ed itself.

[char_]

I’m worried that’ll be around $5k for a 150 sq ft slab because it is such a small job. Guess I should call around.

You estimated 4-5 CY right? Can you mix, place and finish 4-5 CY of bagged concrete at 4000 pounds/CY before it sets?

You might be able to arrange for the pump contractor and concrete company outside of a concrete installer. Some leg work to get the timing right, but might be worth it if you think you can screed and finish it solo.

I'll second the drainage, insulation and water barrier comments.

[spanky]

WTF is going on to the left of the dishwasher?

Vertical drawers???? Bwahahaha!

[Skistack]

Here's the actual listing for those interested: https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/2...3907126_zpid/?

There is also a hilarious dog-height pass through from the living room to the kitchen. I love the idea of whipping up your dog's dinner in the kitchen and then putting it in the order window for him to chow down, but I don't think it's wowing prospective buyers.

Oof, listed 49 days with a $60k price cut. The market has spoken!


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[spanky]

Peel/stick membrane separation is probably cheaper than copper or stainless

{look at product specs for wet application info — many will not stick to wet wood}

Again, thanks all for the input and dealing with me figuring this out.

I can use peel/stick for the bottom flashing over the ledger and aluminum for the top flashing. As long as I use cedar 2x6 instead of PT, that would eliminate the corrosion concern for the top flash and still look nice.

Now, as I’m thinking about cutting away the ~6” of siding, I’m comfortable that a circular saw is the best for the upper cut, but I also have to cut the siding flush with the top of the ledger. A circular saw can’t get that close. My first thought is a sawzall but I’m not confident I’ll be able to maintain a constant cut depth and wind up cutting into the sheathing. Next thought was either an angle grinder or a dremel. But even those are a challenge with depth control. Anyone have a suggestion?

[ntblanks]

Here's the actual listing for those interested: https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/2...3907126_zpid/?

There is also a hilarious dog-height pass through from the living room to the kitchen. I love the idea of whipping up your dog's dinner in the kitchen and then putting it in the order window for him to chow down, but I don't think it's wowing prospective buyers.

Could be a star trek beam pad for Jews.

[toast2266]

Now, as I’m thinking about cutting away the ~6” of siding, I’m comfortable that a circular saw is the best for the upper cut, but I also have to cut the siding flush with the top of the ledger. A circular saw can’t get that close. My first thought is a sawzall but I’m not confident I’ll be able to maintain a constant cut depth and wind up cutting into the sheathing. Next thought was either an angle grinder or a dremel. But even those are a challenge with depth control. Anyone have a suggestion?

I'd imagine you could tack some appropriately thick scrap wood onto the face so that you sink an angle grinder (with wood blade) to full depth and it'd just barely get through the siding.

[ntblanks]

Now, as I’m thinking about cutting away the ~6” of siding, I’m comfortable that a circular saw is the best for the upper cut, but I also have to cut the siding flush with the top of the ledger. A circular saw can’t get that close. My first thought is a sawzall but I’m not confident I’ll be able to maintain a constant cut depth and wind up cutting into the sheathing. Next thought was either an angle grinder or a dremel. But even those are a challenge with depth control. Anyone have a suggestion?

this could work.
https://www.amazon.com/TACKLIFE-Circ...dp/B08J7B618Z/

[Art Shirk]

Can I grab some rudimentary plumbing advice?

Just gutted a small bathroom for a quick remodel, laid down new subfloor and tile and threw some beadboard up. Now putting in a vanity (haven’t sunk into back wall yet) and the drain tail doesn’t line up with the existing p trap. I know I could rig it to connect somehow but want to get to as close to code as possible to avoid clogs and keep the trap clean by sending water into it at max velocity. What sort of set up would you guys suggest? I do get closer to lining it up by pushing vanity flush with both walls but it won’t completely solve the problem nor do I like the look, I need the drawers to not scrap the side of the wall and the eventual mirror is about as wide as the vanity and want it off the wall.

I will christen this sink with a maiden sink pee once installed as per tradition.





And while I have eyeballs on this project, I just realized that I didn’t pull the entire light switch out before installing the paneling. The photo below shows that I just unscrewed and pulled out the bottom of the switch but the top is still screwed in under the paneling. If I cut away more board to unscrew, I leave a hole bigger than the switch cover. I could lop off the top part and pull the switch out and just reattach the bottom but I think it won’t feel secure even with the cover on. Assuming there is an easy way to unfuck this?






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[spanky]

this could work.
https://www.amazon.com/TACKLIFE-Circ...dp/B08J7B618Z/

That doesn’t look like it’ll flush cut. But I’ve since found a toe kick saw...

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-38-i...saw-62420.html

Or maybe this dremel...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204331723

[AK47bp]

I think this counts as a "don't". Guy in my neighborhood owned this house for decades, and it's been a rental for at least the last 10 years or so. He decided to fix it up and sell it and made some design choices that I think are really hurting saleability. The weird sheetrock work on the ceilings is kind of cool, but I wouldn't want to live with it. He's been working on it for a year...should have brought in a designer.

No idea why he sheetrocked in the cabinets like this
Attachment 367892

Tiles laid on an angle for no reason.
Attachment 367893

The faucet lever position?

Nice house but that kitchen is fucked.


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[ntblanks]

That doesn’t look like it’ll flush cut. But I’ve since found a toe kick saw...

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-38-i...saw-62420.html

Or maybe this dremel...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204331723

You're right. My mistake.

Not sure how many linear feet you need to cut or how hard the wood is, but plunge saws with a half moon blade are great for this kind of application depending on how much cutting you need to do. Used it a lot on a bathroom remodel recently. It's *way* slower than most other saw types but you'll get a precise cut and as flush as it gets. Blades hold up surprisingly well too IME.

[AK47bp]

Can I grab some rudimentary plumbing advice?

Just gutted a small bathroom for a quick remodel, laid down new subfloor and tile and threw some beadboard up. Now putting in a vanity (haven’t sunk into back wall yet) and the drain tail doesn’t line up with the existing p trap. I know I could rig it to connect somehow but want to get to as close to code as possible to avoid clogs and keep the trap clean by sending water into it at max velocity. What sort of set up would you guys suggest? I do get closer to lining it up by pushing vanity flush with both walls but it won’t completely solve the problem nor do I like the look, I need the drawers to not scrap the side of the wall and the eventual mirror is about as wide as the vanity and want it off the wall.

I will christen this sink with a maiden sink pee once installed as per tradition.





And while I have eyeballs on this project, I just realized that I didn’t pull the entire light switch out before installing the paneling. The photo below shows that I just unscrewed and pulled out the bottom of the switch but the top is still screwed in under the paneling. If I cut away more board to unscrew, I leave a hole bigger than the switch cover. I could lop off the top part and pull the switch out and just reattach the bottom but I think it won’t feel secure even with the cover on. Assuming there is an easy way to unfuck this?






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[spanky]

You're right. My mistake.

Not sure how many linear feet you need to cut or how hard the wood is, but plunge saws with a half moon blade are great for this kind of application depending on how much cutting you need to do. Used it a lot on a bathroom remodel recently. It's *way* slower than most other saw types but you'll get a precise cut and as flush as it gets. Blades hold up surprisingly well too IME.

It’s about 50’ of siding. I think I’ll add a Milwaukee oscillating tool to my collection...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204463218

It may take me longer than the toe kick saw, but I think I’ll get more use out of it after the job is done.

[dan_pdx]

It’s about 50’ of siding. I think I’ll add a Milwaukee oscillating tool to my collection...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204463218

It may take me longer than the toe kick saw, but I think I’ll get more use out of it after the job is done.

I think a jamb saw would work too - Home Depot rents them, at least in my neck of the woods: https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/R...0-55/309006679

The oscillating tool will definitely work, but like you mentioned, it will take quite awhile. I'd be tempted to buy the oscillating tool - they come in handy - and rent the jamb saw anyway.

[neufox47]

You estimated 4-5 CY right? Can you mix, place and finish 4-5 CY of bagged concrete at 4000 pounds/CY before it sets?

You might be able to arrange for the pump contractor and concrete company outside of a concrete installer. Some leg work to get the timing right, but might be worth it if you think you can screed and finish it solo.

I'll second the drainage, insulation and water barrier comments.

Definitely couldn’t mix, pour, skreed and finish 150 bags by hand. I definitely don’t like the idea of doing it by hand, don’t think getting it pumped in is very economic as I think I’ll end up with a slab that costs $30+ a sq ft. Id rather have a $5k wine cellar with $20k of wine in it than a $15k cellar with $10k of wine.

Just bought the house but I don’t think water is at all a problem. We are on the top edge of a 600’ canyon, water doesn’t sit. I plan on putting a vapor barrier around the whole thing regardless of floor type.

But a pier and framed pressure treated floor, or some other alternative floor (Bueller?), seems like a better idea than concrete right now. Just wondering if I’m missing something. I’m thinking doubled up 2x6s around the edges, doubled up 2x6 beam down the center, and 2x6s every 12” and 15 piers with 3/4 plywood. Home Depot says I can do that for about $800 with pressure treated lumber.

2x6 walls and ceiling, insulate it all and drywall it, install cooling unit (hacked ac that will cool to 54), engineered wood floor, lights, and an insulated door and I think I can do it all for $5k. Then I just need racks, which will either be Craigslist or I’ll build them on the cheap (diamond shaped boxes each capable of holding a case).

[Jethro]

And while I have eyeballs on this project, I just realized that I didn’t pull the entire light switch out before installing the paneling. The photo below shows that I just unscrewed and pulled out the bottom of the switch but the top is still screwed in under the paneling. If I cut away more board to unscrew, I leave a hole bigger than the switch cover. I could lop off the top part and pull the switch out and just reattach the bottom but I think it won’t feel secure even with the cover on. Assuming there is an easy way to unfuck this?


The easy solution is to drill a 5/16” hole straight thru the paneling where you estimate the center of the top Screw head is. Or use a Roto zip to carve away the wood in a U shaped notch so you can remove the screw. DO NOT cut the paneling off above the switch Yoke with your oscillating tool. You want that wood to support the switch when you reinstall or replace
The switch. It’s a peeve of mine as a 30 year electrician when hacks over cut wall material so the switch has no backing

[fatnslow]

I think a jamb saw would work too - Home Depot rents them, at least in my neck of the woods: https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/R...0-55/309006679

The oscillating tool will definitely work, but like you mentioned, it will take quite awhile. I'd be tempted to buy the oscillating tool - they come in handy - and rent the jamb saw anyway.

They sell those at Harbor Freight for under $100. My friend bought one for a project and it was worth every penny.

[house]

And while I have eyeballs on this project, I just realized that I didn’t pull the entire light switch out before installing the paneling. The photo below shows that I just unscrewed and pulled out the bottom of the switch but the top is still screwed in under the paneling. If I cut away more board to unscrew, I leave a hole bigger than the switch cover. I could lop off the top part and pull the switch out and just reattach the bottom but I think it won’t feel secure even with the cover on. Assuming there is an easy way to unfuck this?



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I’d lop the top off and just replace the switches. They’re cheap, and you won’t have to spend any time cleaning the red paint off of them.


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[Art Shirk]

Thanks to AK47 for the pipe reco - for that price I will buy and cut it down to size and see what happens. And house - with you there. I knew something obvious was evading me. Jethro, thanks as well but think I will just replace so I dont accidentally cut too much out.

You guys can piss in my house anytime.

[AK47bp]

Thanks to AK47 for the pipe reco - for that price I will buy and cut it down to size and see what happens. And house - with you there. I knew something obvious was evading me. Jethro, thanks as well but think I will just replace so I dont accidentally cut too much out.

You guys can piss in my house anytime.

Well thanks Art, that’s a nice offer and may come in handy.

I wouldn’t say my bladder’s weak but it ain’t winning a strongman comp anytime soon.


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[Supermoon]

Paint sprayer was 100% worth it. Did our whole house in about three hours. Figured out immediately that a respirator and safety glasses were mandatory.





Shoulda worn a hat, though.

[climberevan]

Paint sprayer was 100% worth it. Did our whole house in about three hours. Figured out immediately that a respirator and safety glasses were mandatory.

So you didn't even get high? What kind of painter are you?

I finally learned why they are the way they are after spraying a lot of lacquer myself while wearing a full face respirator and having painters tell me that they do it bare faced with just some fans for ventilation.

[Supermoon]

So you didn't even get high? What kind of painter are you?

I finally learned why they are the way they are after spraying a lot of lacquer myself while wearing a full face respirator and having painters tell me that they do it bare faced with just some fans for ventilation.

I just did a bunch of whippets before I put my mask on