Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[::: :::]

Go high with the rod so it’s above the label? [then store upright]

Or, plate rail on the shelf surface
(Small round or square lip on the shelf)
Works for the label viewing, but expect to lose wine in a seismic event

[Art Shirk]

Go high with the rod so it’s above the label? [then store upright]

Or, plate rail on the shelf surface
(Small round or square lip on the shelf)
Works for the label viewing, but expect to lose wine in a seismic event

Not sure I understand. The bottles will lay on their sides, not upright. And whatever I come up with, I assume a small rumble will take a lot of it out.

felt runners to create a channel? low profile, min impact

Considering something like this. And I am getting nitpicky but that may be too insecure.

Riffing on what has been posted: stainless 1/8” cable or thinner.

Figure out some way to avoid a turnbuckle.

Also good idea and similar to rod, just difference in aesthetics. I am thinking the rod/cable is the way to go. I will get it thin and lay it low.

[char_]

Not sure I understand. The bottles will lay on their sides, not upright. And whatever I come up with, I assume a small rumble will take a lot of it out.

Just need to stop it from rolling out right? So you could just nail down a piece of 1/4x1/4 or 1/2x1/2 wood matching the original.

[::: :::]

Not sure I understand. The bottles will lay on their sides, not upright. And whatever I come up with, I assume a small rumble will take a lot of it out.

yeah, ignore the upright one

Just need to stop it from rolling out right? So you could just nail down a piece of 1/4x1/4 or 1/2x1/2 wood matching the original.

This is what I meant on the second



still think the rod higher up is a better idea

[BC13]

yeah, ignore the upright one


This is what I meant on the second



still think the rod higher up is a better idea

My original thought was the small lip across the front of each row. Due to the basic raw wood look of the shelves you would not even have to route the lip.

But I agree that a horizontal blued steel rod would look great.



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[ntblanks]

this is more repair than remodel...

seeking advice on plugging a hole in my basement.

my basement flooded. the water table is very high here and and sump pumps are the norm. unfortunately, mine was unplugged. oops. 2' of standing water the other day. water heater fried.

installed a new pump and sucked the water out in 30-40 minutes. then i poked around looking for a source and found at least one (see video link).

it's a 2"x2" hole. how can i plug it while water is pouring out? hammer in a cut-to-order rubber plug and cover it with something heavy?

https://youtu.be/DkOn5YI3bPE

in summer it's much drier so i can fix it properly then. but in the meantime?

*if there's a better thread for repair Qs pls say so.

[BC13]

Here are a couple other simple options that could look good and are along the lines of your original idea. I searched L brackets and came up with these options. All kinds of colors and styles available.

I thought the corner brackets look kind of cool. The Stanley brackets have a touch of raw character. My thought with is place one or two of these per space with the curved concave face facing out. Some may not like the open screw hole that will remain but I could see it working.

The shelf pins are very simple and unobtrusive. Same idea. Tons of variety in hardware to accomplish your original idea.

Brackets, pins or other versions of stoppers could be spaced to leave the labels unblocked. The best answer on this one is, of course, whatever your wife wants.

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[BC13]

Need some advice. Some dude on the island kicked off recently and had like 75k CDs in well made custom shelves. Local estate place basically gave them to me so I threw them in the kitchen to make an entire wall of wine as bottles fit perfectly. I could have laid them the other way but thought it might be interesting to have the bottles on their sides. I want to find little ornate, maybe bronze or black, pieces of metal that I can affix to the shelves to serve as stoppers so the wine doesn’t roll off. They should be flat with a few screw holes on one end and around 2 inches tall so I can lob the bottles over them.

I’m going to dink around the hardware store tomorrow but if you were to look online for something like this, what would you call them/search terms?

Any other ideas, besides take the thing down as the wife likes it, on a cool way to secure the wine but still make the labels very visible?

Attachment 359237

Attachment 359238


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Not looking to make this a bigger job for you but, depending on the color of your cabinets, you could picture frame trim the sides and top and use a thinner trim on the horizontals then paint to match your cabinets. If you went that route just leave the horizontal trim 1/4 to 1/2 inch proud creating a lip. If you have white or painted cabinets and want a different look it could look great.

Plus you already have the table saw out and ready to go!

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[old goat]

this is more repair than remodel...

seeking advice on plugging a hole in my basement.

my basement flooded. the water table is very high here and and sump pumps are the norm. unfortunately, mine was unplugged. oops. 2' of standing water the other day. water heater fried.

installed a new pump and sucked the water out in 30-40 minutes. then i poked around looking for a source and found at least one (see video link).

it's a 2"x2" hole. how can i plug it while water is pouring out? hammer in a cut-to-order rubber plug and cover it with something heavy?

https://youtu.be/DkOn5YI3bPE

in summer it's much drier so i can fix it properly then. but in the meantime?

*if there's a better thread for repair Qs pls say so.

Hydraulic cement? I don't know how big of a leak it will stop but stopping active leaks is what it's for.

[ntblanks]

Hydraulic cement? I don't know how big of a leak it will stop but stopping active leaks is what it's for.

will check it out. thanks OG!

[DJSapp]

this is more repair than remodel...

seeking advice on plugging a hole in my basement.

my basement flooded. the water table is very high here and and sump pumps are the norm. unfortunately, mine was unplugged. oops. 2' of standing water the other day. water heater fried.

installed a new pump and sucked the water out in 30-40 minutes. then i poked around looking for a source and found at least one (see video link).

it's a 2"x2" hole. how can i plug it while water is pouring out? hammer in a cut-to-order rubber plug and cover it with something heavy?

https://youtu.be/DkOn5YI3bPE

in summer it's much drier so i can fix it properly then. but in the meantime?

*if there's a better thread for repair Qs pls say so.

This can be done in the wet, but it's not a DIY job. You'd need a industrial waterproofing contractor that does poly or epoxy crack injections. A small job like this would likely run $2k to drill and inject the spot, but it will be done right.

To attempt a DIY repair here in the wet is possible, but you're fighting a decent flow. The trick is to install a relief tube in the hole while you install some reactive waterstop around the perimeter of the hole and pack it with grout. You want to allow the water a way out while you shrink the size of the hole down with the grout. Let the hole weep out via the tube for a week or two, then inject the tube with epoxy to cut it off. And then you hope it works. You might try a small threaded pipe so you can valve it off instead, but then you can't cut it flush with the floor.

[bigdude2468]

Hydraulic cement? I don't know how big of a leak it will stop but stopping active leaks is what it's for.

If its actually from the water table being that high I have my doubts hydraulic cement will work. Water always wins, I suspect that if you plug that hole as the water rises it will find somewhere else to to go. When I was a kid we had a floor drain in the basement floor that would back up during heavy storms. My dad got a plug that he drove into the top of the floor drain pipe to "seal it". Well we had a storm with water standing in the street and water pressure fractured the floor so from then on when it rained heavily the water had numerous cracks to flood the basement. Installed a sump pump to keep basement semi dry but it always leaked. What he should have done was put a standpipe in the drain pipe

[old goat]

FWIW I'm a keyboard contractor, I believe DJ is a real one.
But maybe the hydraulic cement will slow things down temporarily until summer. If not, you're out 15 bucks.

[oftpiste]

Thoro Waterplug is amazing stuff.

this is more repair than remodel...

seeking advice on plugging a hole in my basement.

my basement flooded. the water table is very high here and and sump pumps are the norm. unfortunately, mine was unplugged. oops. 2' of standing water the other day. water heater fried.

installed a new pump and sucked the water out in 30-40 minutes. then i poked around looking for a source and found at least one (see video link).

it's a 2"x2" hole. how can i plug it while water is pouring out? hammer in a cut-to-order rubber plug and cover it with something heavy?

https://youtu.be/DkOn5YI3bPE

in summer it's much drier so i can fix it properly then. but in the meantime?

*if there's a better thread for repair Qs pls say so.

[ntblanks]

To attempt a DIY repair here in the wet is possible, but you're fighting a decent flow. The trick is to install a relief tube in the hole while you install some reactive waterstop around the perimeter of the hole and pack it with grout. You want to allow the water a way out while you shrink the size of the hole down with the grout. Let the hole weep out via the tube for a week or two, then inject the tube with epoxy to cut it off. And then you hope it works. You might try a small threaded pipe so you can valve it off instead, but then you can't cut it flush with the floor.

thanks DJ. all makes sense. my thought to create space for grout was to find/fashion a rubber block, drill a center hole for 1/2" pvc, insert pipe with a threaded collar to hold it in, and punch that assembly to, what, 4" below floor? then fill the hole with cement (maybe reinforce to walls somehow) and after cure cap the pvc. then come back in the summer to plug the pvc and trim flush with the floor

here's the block i envision using:
https://www.amazon.com/Medium-Vibrat...dp/B01N4GS6OK/

[Art Shirk]

Thanks for the replies on the wine shelf. Wife dismissed the wood trim piece not for functionality but just look. Wants some contrast with metal. So I’m either going with rods/cables or these things, which were a great idea:




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[BC13]

Thanks for the replies on the wine shelf. Wife dismissed the wood trim piece not for functionality but just look. Wants some contrast with metal. So I’m either going with rods/cables or these things, which were a great idea:




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Those pins will look great. I like the finish choice. Post up some finished pics with wine in place. Its gonna look great.

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[JimmyCarter]

Thanks for the replies on the wine shelf. Wife dismissed the wood trim piece not for functionality but just look. Wants some contrast with metal. So I’m either going with rods/cables or these things, which were a great idea:




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How wide are the wood openings? What about something like a rubber bump stop to fit in the bottom end and a curtain/shelving rod cup to hold the neck?

[Art Shirk]

Those pins will look great. I like the finish choice. Post up some finished pics with wine in place. Its gonna look great.

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Will do. Thx

And anyone have a reco for the right tool to be able to drill straight down with only 5 inches of room or so? Maybe someone makes a small push drill that spins with downward pressure? Right angle bit?


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[Art Shirk]

How wide are the wood openings? What about something like a rubber bump stop to fit in the bottom end and a curtain/shelving rod cup to hold the neck?

Also a cool idea and would likely work as the wine fits very snug now and could slide right into one of those channels.


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[Core Shot]

Ntblanks
Bottle that shit. Spring water. Winnnning!

[bagtagley]

The wine shelf will look really nice but all I can think about is dealing with 96 dust and grease shellacked bottles 20 years from now.

[powdrhound]

Will do. Thx

And anyone have a reco for the right tool to be able to drill straight down with only 5 inches of room or so? Maybe someone makes a small push drill that spins with downward pressure? Right angle bit?

My Milwaukee right angle drill has quite a low profile. With shortened bits I have gotten it into tight spots.

edit. I take almost Any excuse to get a new tool...

[Art Shirk]

The wine shelf will look really nice but all I can think about is dealing with 96 dust and grease shellacked bottles 20 years from now.

This will be a shelf of Drinkers so none of them will last very long. That will especially accelerate after COVID when small gatherings will take out a row.

My Milwaukee right angle drill has quite a low profile. With shortened bits I have gotten it into tight spots.

edit. I take almost Any excuse to get a new tool...

Totally. I'll snag one of those. Thanks.

[ntblanks]

Ntblanks
Bottle that shit. Spring water. Winnnning!

only if it was. I haven't gotten it tested, but the water table here is so high it's most likely just regular groundwater. not useless, tho. now you have me thinking.... (tank in the back for landscape water)