Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[fastfred]

T
Not all tradesmen are gougers. Shop around, get references and use your intuition with contractors.
I'm not a fan of rapist contractors but it is indeed a big part of this game.

Fu'.

since it's so easy an IT guy can do it let me break down the simple middle school math for all you people thinking everything should be cheep

6 guys at 5 days labor 8 hr days (minimum)
no one is making less than $25.00 an hr if they are insured and legit employees add $10.00 an hr to the 25.00
overtime paid time off paid holidays bonuses and other perks (they are not just for white guys pecking at a keyboard, the trades should have bennies too, but no one wants to pay for those)
that runs $8,400.00 in labor costs (that's bottom dollar probably much higher)
quality paint will run close to $2,000.00 for the project
ladders brushes masking cleaning materials clothing ppp gear sprayers add another $1000.00
shop, storage space, office space $
supervision office staff $

length of time in business? 10 years? 20 years?
I sure as fuck don't wake up to break even or loose money
I'm looking to make a profit

or hire the cheap guy with a truck some free time away from the internet their drugs and alcohol use who gits er done and only needs a little bit of money to pay the rent and buy a twelve pack for after work

[::: :::]

I suspect the company that came in at $25k is just expensive and does good work and knows there are plenty of people in Seattle who will pay for that good work. They do most of their work in Queen Anne if you know Seattle. Lots of houses from the early 1900s that are well preserved. I think we'll get on more estimate and see where that one falls.

& it’s high painting season
so good outfits are likely booked out too

I’d say if you are confident about their experience & level of care & you’re able to cover the cost, pull the trigger. Def hold their feet to the fire of a quality job for that kind of dough. You can bet the Queen Anne crowd are a bunch of annoying nitpickers asking for the moon. So, when they charge premium for that locale, they need to deliver premium service not just annoyance up charges.

[sirbumpsalot]

I suspect the company that came in at $25k is just expensive and does good work and knows there are plenty of people in Seattle who will pay for that good work. They do most of their work in Queen Anne if you know Seattle. Lots of houses from the early 1900s that are well preserved. I think we'll get on more estimate and see where that one falls.

I am getting the idea from this thread that the company you want to get a quote from should include in its name "Garcia", "Rodriguez", "Gomez" and such and to avoid ones that include "Smith", "McKinney", "Bergermeister" and such for best work and lowest price.

[Djongo Unchained]

I suspect the company that came in at $25k is just expensive and does good work and knows there are plenty of people in Seattle who will pay for that good work. They do most of their work in Queen Anne if you know Seattle. Lots of houses from the early 1900s that are well preserved. I think we'll get on more estimate and see where that one falls.

This sounds like the most likely situation. Just ballpark the cost, know the range for the quality of workmanship.
Cost should equate to Quality, yes?

That's not a hard rule though, and there's the rub.


Fred's numbers seem to come in well below your initial bid. Maybe he's down for a roadtrip out of Breck.

[The AD]

& it’s high painting season

I figure with the climate here there's high (exterior) painting season and there's interior painting season.

And, for the record, I'm not looking for the cheap option, but OTOH $25k is a lot of money. I'm not a dentist after all.

[jm2e]

I suspect the company that came in at $25k is just expensive and does good work and knows there are plenty of bigger easier more lucrative jobs out there right now.

Fixed.



Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Buster Highmen]

I'm building a shed with a shed roof, it's only 10'x12'.
I'm a compl333t n00b, never done this shit before.

The framing looks something like this, except I have more or less conventional 2x6 stud walls all around.



I have 9 16' 2x10s for the roof rafters, so I can put them at 16" intervals.
Yes, it's over engineered, since the span is 12'.

I'm having a problem with the eave overhang. These 16 footers don't seem to be long enough. The roof is 4/12, so the overhang is only about 10" along the downslope eave and only about 16" on the upslope eave.

This seems inadequate.

Thoughts?

I'm reluctant to marry on some extenders. But getting 18' 2x10s right now is a pipe dream.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Way overbuilt unless you have huge snow loads. Span table says you can use 2x6 or 2x8 for that span and spacing

[Buster Highmen]

Yes, it's over engineered, since the span is 12'..

We do get 30 inches of snow randomly here that can hang around for a month.
I already have the 16' 2x10s.
And I'm not asking about that. So, thanks, but can you address the overhang eave question?

In the picture above, upslope is to your left, downslope is to your right.
So I've got about 10" overhang on the downslope right and about 23" of overhang on the upslope left.

[::: :::]

In lieu of a cantilevered extended eave in front, consider a “colonnade” in the front for a covered area that gives you flex space in front of the storage. You can use short framing for that span instead of buying longer single members.

(Likely 2x10 is right if you want to cantilever a few feet at the front eave. You can also sister a shorter member with a backspan that is 2x the cantilever length)

[Buster Highmen]

I hope a colonnade isn't a drink.

wtf is a colonnade. Seems like a marching formation.

Sistering a shorter member might lead to marital strife.

(edit)
sorry, couldn't help myself.
Problem is each eve is at least 16' off the ground.

[old goat]

Why do you think you need more overhang--appearance or is there a practical reason? I would tend to have the same overhang on both ends, for appearance sake.

[Core Shot]

I suggest a colonnade-oscopy

Keep the poop chute clean

[Buster Highmen]

That's understandable until you meet me. Then you'd know I don't care much for appearance.

If ::: ::: suggests the sistering, I may do that to get more overhang.

We get around 80 inches of rain per year here, kind of the Cascade foothills.

Thanks

[::: :::]

I hope a colonnade isn't a drink.

wtf is a colonnade. Seems like a marching formation.

Sistering a shorter member might lead to marital strife.

(edit)
sorry, couldn't help myself.
Problem is each eve is at least 16' off the ground.

Colonnade = a space organized by columns, usually a corridor of sorts [the term was likely too grandiose, kinda why i had it in quotes]


(Intermediate cols are optional depending on the openness you intend for the storage zone. Maybe you have more wall there at the “front”)

[krp8128]

You get the idea.

Couldn't get the angle right in the narrow screenshot

[::: :::]

^^^ We have a 2-stall pony barn that is the wood shed / landscape tool shed

The extra bay is great in the winter for staging wood in the wheel barrow to come to the house

Also, note the roof line doesn’t have to keep going up with the shorter framing bay

Only reason I suggest the extra bay is that the cantilever isn’t going to offer much shelter unless it gets big, esp as it gets higher

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

We do get 30 inches of snow randomly here that can hang around for a month.
I already have the 16' 2x10s.
And I'm not asking about that. So, thanks, but can you address the overhang eave question?

.

Good luck, don't hurt yourself.

[Buster Highmen]

I thought of trying to get counsel on Ionic, Doric or some snazzier Corinthian from you, but the drink joke got in the way.
My bad.

In my case, the roofline is high, like 16' off the ground in front and 12' in back. So, despite the attraction of a Greek Temple, I think I'll take the sistering advice and add 16" to the front and back.

[Buster Highmen]

Good luck, don't hurt yourself.

If it's not obvious, I'm damaged goods as is.

[Buster Highmen]

I'm no expert at any of this by far, but when I saw that bit of info my first though was about how guttering and drainage is getting incorporated into the design.

Got that covered.

Despite the small footprint of 10'x12' (you'll have to do your own hectare conversions metricists), we've got a gutter and water tank queued up to be used for summer watering.

Plus we're in the middle of 5+ acres, surrounded by tall trees and gentle slopes.

[::: :::]

I thought of trying to get counsel on Ionic, Doric or some snazzier Corinthian from you, but the drink joke got in the way.
My bad.

In my case, the roofline is high, like 16' off the ground in front and 12' in back. So, despite the attraction of a Greek Temple, I think I'll take the sistering advice and add 16" to the front and back.

16’ high w/ a 23” + 16” eave isn’t offering much overhang for weather protection, esp with the rising slope
(if I’m understanding the eave dim appropriately)
The 12’ side is doing it better from both the slope & the height/eave proportion, but i wonder if that side is worth doing?

(roof prolly a little steep, but you get the idea at scale)

[plugboots]

Advice comes with free hooker.

[::: :::]

Whole project is a ruse to cover up the bodies

[adrenalated]

Built 'er tall to stack 'em higher