Page 43 of 380 FirstFirst ... 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 ... LastLast
Results 1,051 to 1,075 of 9497
  1. #1051
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    2,440
    Just did a master bath with Schluter Ditra (floor) and the Schluter Kerdi shower system. Ditra is about 1000% easier than cement board backer to install. My first shower install, I probably would not have attempted it without the Kerdi system. Pretty happy with the results and confident that it will not leak.

  2. #1052
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,859
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    ^^^ Austin, clue me in as to what you guys are discussing exactly. Thanks
    This stuff. It rocks: https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...TRA-XL/p/DITRA
    This is also pretty baller: https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...T/p/DITRA_HEAT
    Their website has TONS of great resources on how to do all the installations. I've used a bunch of their products including the Kerdi board for my shower walls as well as their profile trim pieces (very classy looking when it's all done like that). Bunch of tile pros I've talked to said it's all they'll use now. Easier installation. Way more bullet-proof in the long run.

    Here's a decent intro:

  3. #1053
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    12,609
    Quote Originally Posted by AustinFromSA View Post
    x 2!!!

    I did my last tile job using the full system all the way around. NEVER going back to that cement board crap ever again. Totally worth the extra couple bucks.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Anyone ever use this Wedi board stuff? https://www.wedi.de/en/products/buil...uilding-board/

    Used it a little on a recent project but definitely not to it's full potential. Seems like it would make a full shower install/rebuild much easier.

  4. #1054
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Wedi is good too

    Our preferred tile guy is married to the Schluter world so we work with that system a bunch

  5. #1055
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,859
    Quote Originally Posted by shredgnar View Post
    Anyone ever use this Wedi board stuff? https://www.wedi.de/en/products/buil...uilding-board/

    Used it a little on a recent project but definitely not to it's full potential. Seems like it would make a full shower install/rebuild much easier.
    Huh. Never seen it. It looks just like Kerdi board, though just in blue rather than orange. I bet it's every bit as good, just a different brand.

    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    Wedi is good too

    Our preferred tile guy is married to the Schluter world so we work with that system a bunch
    Yeah, the reason he probably does that is if you're an installer, you pretty much have to use the entire Schluter system top to bottom for the company to honor the warranty, which is lifetime if you do that.

  6. #1056
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    12,609
    Quote Originally Posted by AustinFromSA View Post
    Huh. Never seen it. It looks just like Kerdi board, though just in blue rather than orange. I bet it's every bit as good, just a different brand.
    Yeah, I think it is a little thinner. I don't know shit, but a GC friend of mine was telling me he uses it a lot in some high end builds in the Vail valley, so I figured it was pretty decent.

  7. #1057
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    8,290'
    Posts
    5,357
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Tile advice would be to spend a bit extra on a quality system like Schluter. They have any product you need and really good instructional videos.
    I’m about to pull the trigger (sledge hammer) on our tiled shower.
    hey, i would just sawsall through the drywall and cut it out each wall in one piece...lot easier....then go back with green board....then wonder or concrete board....then tile
    www.freeridesystems.com
    ski & ride jackets made in colorado
    maggot discount code TGR20
    ok we'll come up with a solution by then makers....

  8. #1058
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by shredgnar View Post
    Yeah, I think it is a little thinner. I don't know shit, but a GC friend of mine was telling me he uses it a lot in some high end builds in the Vail valley, so I figured it was pretty decent.
    i've heard subs tell me one is better than the other, but i think they all get factory training & ultimately have a financial stake in using one vs the other per warrantees & preferred pricing

    for all intents & purposes, they are of high quality & basically interchangeable

  9. #1059
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,859
    Quote Originally Posted by MiCol View Post
    hey, i would just sawsall through the drywall and cut it out each wall in one piece...lot easier....
    That may be, but taking a sledge to a wall is a WHOLE lot more fun than doing it the tidy way. I'm with ya, though. Cleanup's much easier using a saw. Still. Not as fun.

    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    i've heard subs tell me one is better than the other, but i think they all get factory training & ultimately have a financial stake in using one vs the other per warrantees & preferred pricing

    for all intents & purposes, they are of high quality & basically interchangeable
    Yup. Spot on.

  10. #1060
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,779
    Just make sure you use the premixed "thinset" and grout out of the big tub. You can use the same product for both.






























    Just fucking kidding. Don't be that guy.

  11. #1061
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    your vacation
    Posts
    4,718
    ^^^
    LOL root skier that was good

  12. #1062
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,111
    Quote Originally Posted by AustinFromSA View Post
    That may be, but taking a sledge to a wall is a WHOLE lot more fun than doing it the tidy way. I'm with ya, though. Cleanup's much easier using a saw. Still. Not as fun.

    Seems like the sawzall would be a whole lot dustier.
    BTW the proper tool is the maul.

  13. #1063
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    in the brew room
    Posts
    2,344
    All right I have another pergola question...
    Pergola will be freestanding on back patio. Approx dims are 12’x10’ (centers of posts).Planning on 6x6 posts. Beams will be two 2x’s resting in notched posts (so four 2x’s total). Planning on running rafters on top (notching about 1.5” so they sit down into beam) then maybe some 1x purlins on top of rafters. Height to bottom of beam will be approx 8’.
    Trying to determine beam and rafter size. Wondering about strength (be nice to hang a hammock if possible) as well as appearance. Thinking beams should be one size up from rafters.
    Was leaning 2x10 for beams and 2x8 for rafters. Or one size down?Hard for me to picture.
    Any insight?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  14. #1064
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    7,762
    Yeah, schluter or equivalent all the way. I also did the epoxy grout, but note if you do that you're on a timer from when you mix to when it will no longer come off the tile.
    Follow the instructions on the schluter/wedi stuff (need 2 kinds of thinset), be patient and layout your tile so you can cut before the big pour/setting.

  15. #1065
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Alpental
    Posts
    4,166
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Seems like the sawzall would be a whole lot dustier.
    BTW the proper tool is the maul.
    You can hook a sawzall up to a dust extractor these days and not breathe that shit in and make a giant mess,
    “I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.”

  16. #1066
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,859
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Seems like the sawzall would be a whole lot dustier.
    BTW the proper tool is the maul.
    Oh doy. The maul is the correct answer.

    Quote Originally Posted by snoqpass View Post
    You can hook a sawzall up to a dust extractor these days and not breathe that shit in and make a giant mess,
    Yup! Also like to use my Roto-Zip sometimes. Has a nice little attachment to plug it right up to the shop vac. Works great! If I gotta get more precise or up against edges though, I like my oscillating multitool and just hold the shop vac to catch the dust as it falls out. Easy.


  17. #1067
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    The Cone of Uncertainty
    Posts
    49,306
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    BTW the proper tool is the maul.
    A man after my own heart.

    we installed Schluter and used the linear drains in the showers and are happy with the result.

  18. #1068
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Before
    Posts
    27,911
    How does the Schluter system provide enough rigidity for the grout not to crack?
    Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
    >>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<

  19. #1069
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by Buster Highmen View Post
    How does the Schluter system provide enough rigidity for the grout not to crack?
    i've wondered that myself, but it does - i'll have to ask my tile guy
    i know he only uses the foam panels now

    they even do independent partitions with just the board


  20. #1070
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Before
    Posts
    27,911
    We've done some tile in a couple houses we've finished (finishing…) and have gone the whole max route with screwing down the cement board and painting that with that black sealant.

    My wife is a perfectionist in laying the tile. She did our first house bathroom in cream 12" travertine with super thin grout spacing, reviewed by Bill Gate's personal contractor as professionally perfect.

    She did a killer job on a bathroom in the new house with custom tiles and here vv is the layout, again with custom tiles in the entryway, prepped in the same way (haven't buttered and grouted yet obviously)



    So all that prep is a done deal. My wife cut and laid out this ^^ from 4"x4" tiles.

    But now, we going to finish a sunroom as a solar collector in dark green slate. I wouldn't mind skipping the days of measuring, cutting and placing the cement board nor the joy of painting the black sealant goo. I'd do this Schluter system if I understood why the grout wouldn't crack.

    We've also got a steamshower and master bath with tubsurround to finish.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0785.jpg 
Views:	810 
Size:	1.33 MB 
ID:	284982  
    Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
    >>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<

  21. #1071
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    tile guy response

    schluter vs wedi: wedi ultimately relies on a sealant joint (whereas schluter relies on a 5" flashing that spans joints) & that opens up the ability for problems to form, but he agreed that installed correctly, it's great/reliable

    schluter flex: Grout does flex on a micro level so it can handle a certain amount of movement before cracks occur. The board thickness is stipulated by tile size & joint size per Schluter rules. You have to work with their rules based on substrate makeup, but they pretty much have it dialed. And there are still needs for soft relief joints (ie, inside corners). He described test sample installs they did in training that proved how bomber everything ends up.

  22. #1072
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Before
    Posts
    27,911
    Is substrate makeup defined by sheathing and studs/joists?

    btw, my dad's side of the family is from Paisley. He's kind of first gen.
    Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
    >>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<

  23. #1073
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by Buster Highmen View Post
    Is substrate makeup defined by sheathing and studs/joists?
    yes, substrate is all those things, but you have options, either based on what's there already (existing) or what you choose to put up (new const). You can go straight foam over studs or put up sheet rock/cement board/green board. Schluter has rules for each.


    Quote Originally Posted by Buster Highmen View Post
    btw, my dad's side of the family is from Paisley. He's kind of first gen.
    my grandparents had a place not far from there (Clarkston, just directly south of Glasgow) that i visited growing up. i think my dad's house growing up was on the other side of the river nearer downtown glasgow proper...i'd have to ask him

  24. #1074
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    Quote Originally Posted by criscam View Post
    All right I have another pergola question...
    Pergola will be freestanding on back patio. Approx dims are 12’x10’ (centers of posts).Planning on 6x6 posts. Beams will be two 2x’s resting in notched posts (so four 2x’s total). Planning on running rafters on top (notching about 1.5” so they sit down into beam) then maybe some 1x purlins on top of rafters. Height to bottom of beam will be approx 8’.
    Trying to determine beam and rafter size. Wondering about strength (be nice to hang a hammock if possible) as well as appearance. Thinking beams should be one size up from rafters.
    Was leaning 2x10 for beams and 2x8 for rafters. Or one size down?Hard for me to picture.
    Any insight?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    (I have to admit I'm having trouble visualizing your arrangement...)

    beams aside, i think you might have trouble with the hammock idea because there isn't anything really bracing this structure diagonally...so you might get sway, or worse

    For lateral restraint, you can:
    1) mimic a pole building & have a deep set post (basically cantilevering up out of the ground & restrained by the strength of the posts); or
    2) have a design that has either sheathing or diag corner brackets resisting the out-of-plane forces [you seem to be in this world based on your footing ques earlier]

    I think what might determine your sizes for a small structure like this is more likely what looks good proportionally for timber framing (bigger likely better & showing differential btwn sizes of sub-elements).

  25. #1075
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    in the brew room
    Posts
    2,344
    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    (I have to admit I'm having trouble visualizing your arrangement...)

    beams aside, i think you might have trouble with the hammock idea because there isn't anything really bracing this structure diagonally...so you might get sway, or worse

    For lateral restraint, you can:
    1) mimic a pole building & have a deep set post (basically cantilevering up out of the ground & restrained by the strength of the posts); or
    2) have a design that has either sheathing or diag corner brackets resisting the out-of-plane forces [you seem to be in this world based on your footing ques earlier]

    I think what might determine your sizes for a small structure like this is more likely what looks good proportionally for timber framing (bigger likely better & showing differential btwn sizes of sub-elements).
    basically something like this
    Name:  Pergola.jpg
Views: 544
Size:  40.2 KB

    yea posts will be set on top of footings and anchored in w post bases. the sway thing kinda makes sense but it will/should be pretty rigid when all said and done so...
    i think i'm leaning toward 2x10 beams and 2x8 rafters (and 1x purlins) but...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •