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  1. #4401
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
    Posts
    2,829
    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    That’s probably the more efficient way at it
    This is the other way I've seen it....nope.

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    Here's my way with a bit of an edge band

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #4402
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    14,410
    Quote Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
    Parents built a house in '90, tiled countertops. A few years later the ripped off the cheap stuff and did it with nicer tile and epoxy grout.

    I looked at some large format slate and porcelain this morning. Schluter also sells an anodized aluminum edge band just for this.

    Appeal of laminate is (other then shipping) I can get it done in a day. Not sure if I want to fuss with the premade edging or just stain a hardwood charcoal to match. Have been looking at a textured slate finish.

    This is for the appraisal, but I also just want shit done. Started out this Reno 5 years ago trying to go kid to high end, and have since realized the house itself just doesn't warrant that. Granite or marble would look totally out of place for example.
    Quartz?

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

  3. #4403
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
    Posts
    2,829
    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    Quartz?

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app
    $60 sqft around here last I checked, and that was through a relatively new installer advertising on FB.

    I went back and looked at my soapstone quotes from 2016, $5500 but that was only 3cm material.
    Last edited by krp8128; 07-31-2021 at 12:07 PM.

  4. #4404
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,120
    45 degrees at the corners will not have an expansion problem. Both pieces move the same way. OTOH butt joints move differently--the wood doesn't move lengthwise, only crosswise. Regardless of how the joint is done you should allow for expansion by attaching with screws through slotted holes. Cut the pieces a little wide so you can scribe to the wall if the walls aren't perfect 90 degrees--you could wind up with gaps too big to be covered by your backsplash. I would leave the corner edges as endgrain. If you do edge band I'd do a beveled undercut of the butcher block and bevel the top of the banding so the top edge of the band doesn't show. It will be hard to do right.

  5. #4405
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Ques for hvac folks

    The insulation on the line set leading from compressor to building has eroded away, revealing the copper tubing.

    What’s the best replacement insulation for this line set?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What can I use that won’t erode in 3yrs?

  6. #4406
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    7,447
    Critters and sun love to eat that shit. 3 years is a pretty good life span.

  7. #4407
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    inw
    Posts
    1,282
    ^^ nice river rock

  8. #4408
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    10,828
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    The thing I don’t like is wasting water trying to get hot water in the master when you need it.
    For the last 10 years or so, we’ve put buckets in the showers.
    Direct the shower into the bucket while it warms, and use this water around the house. It takes us about 3 showers to fill, and we use the water for watering the flowers or compost.

    Super easy, efficient “recycling”. Everyone should do this.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  9. #4409
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    1,337
    Quote Originally Posted by Rideski View Post
    Hmmm ok I’ll check that out size / cost of jumping jack. Would rather spend $100 on that vs 2 hours of pounding sand. Heh. Considered taking fence boards off but don’t want to break them since they’d prolly cost $30 a slat right now.

    What about polymeric sand for the joints filling when there’s no ability to blow it away and no hose? I could hand spray water on I suppose. Or maybe hook a waterbed attachment to a sink.
    Attachment 377518
    I am doing a light use 20'x3' walkway with brick pavers. Dug out 6-7" down...and assuming I need a rock base followed by paver base followed by 1" sand. What did you use for rock base? "Crushed rock"? Gravel? I can get 2yds crushed rock (1/4"-1/2*) dumped from the local yard for $110/

    Also where did you get the paver base (not level sand base -step 2)? Being a city dweller all I know of is Home Depot/Lowes and complains of the quality (too many rocks) for their "step 1" base.

    I ask because DIY utube stuff is all over the place and vague.

  10. #4410
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Landscape supply yard.
    Landscape fabric/road base/paver sand/pavers

  11. #4411
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    1,337
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Landscape supply yard.
    Landscape fabric/road base/paver sand/pavers
    So I don't really need the gravel rock base? Just go right from compacted soil to road base?

    Any other ways to call it road base? I haven't seen that name at the landscapers...closest is "crushed rock", but not sure thats the same thing.

  12. #4412
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Road base is crushed rock(locks together when compacted)
    Place near me calls it construction gravel. Probably 3/4 minus or 1/2

  13. #4413
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    “Three quarter minus” = 3/4” crushed rock and smaller, including fines [gravel +dust essentially]

  14. #4414
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    ^^^Yep

  15. #4415
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wenatchee
    Posts
    14,612
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    I'd like to get fastfred's opinion.

    But until then I agree with VT-Free. IMO other than trowels and plastic buckets, pretty much anything you buy at HD in the tile aisle will guarantee a fucked up tile job. That shit is taking it to a new level of fuckupedness.
    Prism grout is the bomb. My friend who is a high end tile guy recommended it and he won’t use anything else. I don’t know about the other shit though.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  16. #4416
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    1,337
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Road base is crushed rock(locks together when compacted)
    Place near me calls it construction gravel. Probably 3/4 minus or 1/2
    Thanks....hmmm...actually I am a bit screwed there. I only need 1/2-3/4 yd and the minimum delivery is 2yds. Ha. Wonder if its better to ask for 3/4yd and get charged for 2yds anyways as its probably same cost as 3/4yd bagged from Home depot.

  17. #4417
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,661
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbumpsalot View Post
    Thanks....hmmm...actually I am a bit screwed there. I only need 1/2-3/4 yd and the minimum delivery is 2yds. Ha. Wonder if its better to ask for 3/4yd and get charged for 2yds anyways as its probably same cost as 3/4yd bagged from Home depot.
    Some of the yards have two-compartment dump trucks so you can get two materials delivered in one trip - maybe you can get the rock and the sand together. At least you save some Home Depot trips.

  18. #4418
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbumpsalot View Post
    Thanks....hmmm...actually I am a bit screwed there. I only need 1/2-3/4 yd and the minimum delivery is 2yds. Ha. Wonder if its better to ask for 3/4yd and get charged for 2yds anyways as its probably same cost as 3/4yd bagged from Home depot.
    Do you have a truck?
    We've self loaded my brothers 1/2ton. Sometimes you just gotta suck it up!

  19. #4419
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    6,643
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbumpsalot View Post
    Thanks....hmmm...actually I am a bit screwed there. I only need 1/2-3/4 yd and the minimum delivery is 2yds. Ha. Wonder if its better to ask for 3/4yd and get charged for 2yds anyways as its probably same cost as 3/4yd bagged from Home depot.
    Too bad you’re not near me (I assume). Last week I got 5 yards of gray crushed granite fines delivered for some flagstone work. Then it rained. Turns out the gray was just rock dust. They actually delivered mixed crushed granite - gray/red/assorted.

    Calling this morning to see if they will come get it and give us the right stuff. Not hopeful. You coulda taken a yard of it and helped me out.

    Also, this sucks. 5 yards of this stuff is like 6 tons.

  20. #4420
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    1,337
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Do you have a truck?
    We've self loaded my brothers 1/2ton. Sometimes you just gotta suck it up!
    LOL....I would but I have an SUV....unless its bagged I can't get it in/out.

    The problems with small/diy....

  21. #4421
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbumpsalot View Post
    LOL....I would but I have an SUV....unless its bagged I can't get it in/out.

    The problems with small/diy....
    You know that argument in the Trucks thread?.......

  22. #4422
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    725
    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    Ques for hvac folks

    The insulation on the line set leading from compressor to building has eroded away, revealing the copper tubing.

    What’s the best replacement insulation for this line set?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What can I use that won’t erode in 3yrs?
    Flexible dryer duct + spray foam insulation in a can. Split the dryer duct so you can get it over the copper, put a couple big hose clamps around it. Fill with spray foam.
    Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp

  23. #4423
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    725
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbumpsalot View Post
    I am doing a light use 20'x3' walkway with brick pavers. Dug out 6-7" down...and assuming I need a rock base followed by paver base followed by 1" sand. What did you use for rock base? "Crushed rock"? Gravel? I can get 2yds crushed rock (1/4"-1/2*) dumped from the local yard for $110/

    Also where did you get the paver base (not level sand base -step 2)? Being a city dweller all I know of is Home Depot/Lowes and complains of the quality (too many rocks) for their "step 1" base.

    I ask because DIY utube stuff is all over the place and vague.
    Lots to consider here. What is your native soil like? Were you going to put a fabric under your base material? What about between the base and the sand? How much rain do you get? Does it need to be permeable?

    And for the record: 3/4" crush is a spec material with most everything being 1/2"-3/4" in size and only a minimal amount of dust and fines the were stuck on it. Drains very well and is a suitable base in the right application. 1/2" Class 2 road base is a product that contains rock, sand, and fines and binds tightly. Does not drain well and is a great base in the right application. 3/8" pea gravel drains well and is not the best base material but it has its places where it shines.
    Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp

  24. #4424
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,749
    By me everyone uses the following, and I've built paver walks with 1/2-1 crushed bluestone, stone dust, then sand. Make sure you rent a compactor, and pack it down between each layer. I would never use anything like pea gravel as a base. Its round and acts like ball bearings.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  25. #4425
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,661
    Curious to hear people's thoughts about this - when we did our paver patio, we were ordering 3/4 minus and sand and the landscape supply company where we were buying the material said "don't bother with the sand, in a few years it filters down through the gravel, we see it happen all the time." They told us to just get the 3/4 minus as smooth as possible with a compactor. I didn't think they'd steer us wrong in order to sell us less material, so we took their advice. It worked OK - we were using large 2' x 2' pavers with gaps in between for groundcover, so less sensitive to small height differences than small pavers laid without gaps, but it was a huge pain in the ass to get things reasonably level. What's up with this one yard giving different advice than the whole Internet?

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