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  1. #7026
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    10,248
    There was a discussion about home leak detectors that can trigger the main to shut off, but I can’t find it. Any experience or suggestions?
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  2. #7027
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
    Posts
    7,406
    Water cop has a nice setup.

  3. #7028
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Timely question on leak detectors!

    Came home after a weekend trip to standing water in dishwasher and on the surrounding hardwood floor. It was bone dry when I left, and no one used any water, so google suggests fault/calcified inlet valve as most likely culprit. That's not the important part as I wanted to replace it anyway.

    Big decision is whether to self-remediate or file a claim. It's the standard issue Bruce 2.25' oak that's in every house everywhere. Moisture meter reads WTF% in the 2 feet surrounding dishwasher and tapers off rapidly after that. Thinking of pulling affected planks, drying with air mover (on hand, thankfully), replacing with new, adding a drain pan, installing new dishwasher, renting a hotel for a few days and finding someone to professionally refinish all the whole kitchen and dining room (not a big house).

    Another option is to shit-can the wood, which hasn't been touched or maintained since 1995 and make use of the professional tile saw in my attic and go tile.

    My biggest reservation is this sneaking suspicion that there's been some kind of water issue under the dishwasher for years. Reason being, the builder didn't extend the flooring to the wall, so it's just sub-floor under the dishwasher. Any slow leak would just soak into that subfloor. There's an island that starts about 3 feet from the dishwasher. I feel like it has gotten a bit more wobbly over the years (hence the sneaking suspicion). I'll go check the crawlspace on that today and hit the underside of the island with the moisture meter and look for visual clues. I'll also assume that any compromised framing/joists would push the consensus toward insurance claim.

  4. #7029
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,019
    Having worked in a prior life in that biz, call a resto company and file a claim.

    You might get a check for the contiguous hardwood, and can change to tile if you want.

    Also, fans don’t do shit. You need a commercial dehu and ideally a rescue mat to get that floor to lay back down.

    PS. The joists are fine. If the water sits to long your subfloor will be toast however.

    PPS. A claim every ten years is no big deal. I got a new kitchen from an ice maker leak. Rates didn’t go up.

  5. #7030
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    10,248

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    @mattig, we had a similar situation. The water valve on the DW sprung a pinhole leak causing the hardwood around it to warp. I put fans on the top and in the crawl space. Didn’t seem to do much, but with time the warping has gone down quite a bit. I’d have to pull the counters to properly pull the wood, so I didn’t bother. The whole level needs to be refinished so I haven’t bothered filing a claim. Probably should but it doesn’t bother me that much.

    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Water cop has a nice setup.
    Thanks, I’ll take a look.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  6. #7031
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Thanks for the replies. Looks like it's the fill valve. Power is off and water is still dripping in from the side. More frustratingly, it's still dripping in even after shutting off the supply valve under the sink, so I guess that needs to be replaced? And therefore, I'll need to shut off water at the main and have some basic understanding of replacing an under-sink shut-off valve?

  7. #7032
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,810
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    Having worked in a prior life in that biz, call a resto company and file a claim.

    You might get a check for the contiguous hardwood, and can change to tile if you want.

    Also, fans don’t do shit. You need a commercial dehu and ideally a rescue mat to get that floor to lay back down.

    PS. The joists are fine. If the water sits to long your subfloor will be toast however.

    PPS. A claim every ten years is no big deal. I got a new kitchen from an ice maker leak. Rates didn’t go up.
    Hardwood sure looks nice but there is always the chance of water not playing nice with wood ?

    Buddy remodeled this house with the same large slate tiles everywhere and i never have to worry about water
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #7033
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,019
    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    Thanks for the replies. Looks like it's the fill valve. Power is off and water is still dripping in from the side. More frustratingly, it's still dripping in even after shutting off the supply valve under the sink, so I guess that needs to be replaced? And therefore, I'll need to shut off water at the main and have some basic understanding of replacing an under-sink shut-off valve?
    I had a failing shutoff in an ugly location. Couldn’t find a washer (that’s the easiest repair). Bought a new shutoff and just threaded the new stem into the old body. They seem more standardized these days.
    Take off the cap nut and see what you got.

  9. #7034
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    27,291
    Wife and I are in the middle of a big flooring replacement project. We're tearing out all the carpeting in our second floor and replacing it with luxury vinyl plank. We've got around 1,400 square feet total to do and we're probably a bit more than halfway through. My suggestion for anyone thinking about doing it is go for it if you've got the time. It's not all that difficult. There are good videos on YouTube to give you some hints. Since we had so much to do we bought a cutter specifically for this. It's a guillotine style like those paper cutters you used to use in school. I think the main advice I'd give is really think about it and do lots of measurements before you start. Once you start laying the flooring you're sort of locked in unless you stop and start with a transition strip between rooms, but I figure try to minimize those as much as possible. Lay down chalk lines to make sure you're staying straight. With all the pulling and hammering in of the board edges it's easy to get off track a bit. The only tools you really need are a mallet, some kind of block to pound against so you don't ruin the edges of the boards, and a saw to cut the pieces for length, width, and to go around things like doors and floor vents. For complex cuts I've been using a jig saw and that works perfectly. Also make sure you leave a 1/4 inch gap at the walls for expansion.

    One advantage about doing this yourself is you can tackle one room at a time, so you just need to empty one room and put the furniture somewhere else. If you hired someone to install I suspect you'd need to figure out how to move all the furniture out of the entire areas you want the floor installed.

  10. #7035
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    5,834
    Quote Originally Posted by The AD View Post
    Once you start laying the flooring you're sort of locked in unless you stop and start with a transition strip between rooms, but I figure try to minimize those as much as possible.
    One thing those transition strips allow is a little more tolerance for expansion and contraction. I did something similar on a house a while ago and ended up having to cut transitions in between rooms because the flooring would move and buckle and separate as the weather changed.
    focus.

  11. #7036
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    Posts
    11,676
    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    One thing those transition strips allow is a little more tolerance for expansion and contraction. I did something similar on a house a while ago and ended up having to cut transitions in between rooms because the flooring would move and buckle and separate as the weather changed.
    Ours gave a maximum sq footage before you needed to lay a transition. But it may have been > 1400 feet. We didn’t need to use one in our living/kitchen area

  12. #7037
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    27,291
    I've got a run of boards that goes the entire length of the house, maybe 60 feet or so. According to the manufacturer the max run length is 100 feet, so we'll see!

    I'm doing four bedrooms and a hall total.

  13. #7038
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,810
    I bought my house with slate or engineered vinal floors in every room, there are transition strips between all of them. Not sure how they were suposed to be held down but the Transition strips and the stair edges were all getting loose about 3 yrs out from instal and one had cracked so I nailed them all down with colormatched 1 & 5/8ths panel board ringnails and nothing has moved

    I think the flooring is quick to lay but the baseboards will still take 4 yrs to instal
    Last edited by XXX-er; 07-20-2022 at 12:43 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #7039
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    27,291
    The baseboards have been easy so far. A nail gun a good miter saw makes quick work of it. The most difficult thing was getting the 16 foot long boards home. Those things are amazingly floppy.

  15. #7040
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,810
    Thats a long running joke, about 16 ft long

    The floor gets done and the baseboards take forever

    I even remember a marriage counselor making that joke

    or maybe it was a divorce lawyer ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #7041
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Your Mom's House
    Posts
    8,291
    I remember a lot of people bagging on LVP on here recently but I actually like it a lot. It's durable, easy to clean, easy to maintain, easy to install, feels nice underfoot, and easy to replace if you decide you want something different.

    Baseboards are easy if you're doing cheap MDF or whatever and painting it. Just fill the imperfections with caulk and move on. Gets a little more complicated if you're doing some fancy hardwood.

  17. #7042
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,810
    Same with Lino counters ^^ not every house deserves solid cherry flooring & granite counters

    the thing with a DIY job is that the flooring has to get done but those baseboards can be put off for ever
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #7043
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    27,291
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Thats a long running joke, about 16 ft long

    The floor gets done and the baseboards take forever

    I even remember a marriage counselor making that joke

    or maybe it was a divorce lawyer ?
    Yeah, got it. You finish the hard part and then figure you can do the baseboards later. We've been putting them in so we can get all the furniture back in, but have put off the painting and caulking.

    Hardwood flooring is definitely nice, but it's way more expensive and not waterproof. The LVP looks a damn sight better than the old, shitty builder grade carpeting, I can say that much! Our original plan was just to put it in one small room, but it looked so good we decided to buy enough for the entire upstairs (it was on sale at Costco at the time).

  19. #7044
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    6,675
    Old friend once said years ago, “you know the best time to install baseboards? A month before the house goes on the market!”


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  20. #7045
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Closing the case on the dishwasher, etc. The inside of the shut off valve was utterly disintegrated. Many chunks of it has traveled downstream to the dishwasher fill valve.

    Replaced it with a quarter turn valve, which I vastly prefer. The original dishwasher fill valve may have been serviceable but the new one was only 19 bucks, so in it went).

    I'm not a plumber, but I did have a bright little idea of blasting the water line for a minute into a bucket before reconnecting to dishwasher. Glad I did as there was plenty of gunk and plastic bits still in the line!

    Floor is dry and new temp planks (that almost match) are in. Couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the new planks in until I realized the builder cut one down by 3/8ths right in the middle of the kitchen. I finally saw it when looking at the toe kick saw cuts under the island (sorry, forgot to take a pic of that). I'm not a flooring guy but I would think I would do that funky cut right at the edge of the room. Then again, I also probably wouldn't have left bare subfloor with a couple pieces of scrap wood under the dishwasher to support the wheels. Fackin lazy ass mofos.

  21. #7046
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    EWA
    Posts
    22,002
    Whoo boy is someone going to get a surprise in about 20yrs


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    When you see something that is not right, not just, not fair, you have a moral obligation to say something. To do something." Rep. John Lewis


    Kindness is a bridge between all people

    Dunkin’ Donuts Worker Dances With Customer Who Has Autism

  22. #7047
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Movin' On
    Posts
    3,712
    I'm in the market for getting my house stained. Entire house is cedar siding. House is 3k sq feet and two stories. As best I can tell, it was last stained in 2018 before I owned the house.

    After asking around and talking to four contractors, I got two quotes- one at $13k, one at $5600. Others didn't get back to me in a reasonable timeframe.

    Both companies have 8+ year in the trades. Cheaper guy and his crew also sub as painters and masons for some of the high end builds in Jackson and Teton Valley. Both want to use the same Cabot semi solid stain that was used on my house previously.

    Cheaper guy is local and grew up here and has better connections to labor. More expensive guy moved here a couple years ago.

    Cheaper guy wants to do 1 coat by hand brush wafter pressure washer prep work on siding and sanding prep on fascia. Cabot instructions
    for semi solid stain reference one coat being sufficient for restraining application on top of original stain.

    More expensive guy wants to do two coats with a sprayer and prep with only pressure washer.

    The other issue I'm having is that the accent and fascia were originally stained with acrylic stain for some reason. Fascia is 8 inches and plumb (vertical, instead of square and 90 degrees to the roof slope) so snow tends to stick to it and rub off the stain.

    I'm looking to move to oil based stain on accents and fascia for better protection, and also got a quote from a roofing company to add metal flashing to all fascia to protect against snow and running water ($4k).

    The crew who built my house back in 2007 are currently building in the neighborhood and I talked to them. They said they got in an argument with the original owner, who insisted on plumb fascia when they recommended square (ugh).

    Neighbors have told me to go with cheaper option because even with two coats you still have to stain ever couple years up here anyway.

    I like both contractors but I'm planning to move forward with the cheaper option and consider the $4k upgrade to metal flashing on fascia.

    Am I missing something here? Is there any reason to pay >2x as much for the more expensive crew?

  23. #7048
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    2,057
    Quote Originally Posted by KQ View Post
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    Solid attention to detail.

  24. #7049
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,591
    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    Closing the case on the dishwasher, etc. The inside of the shut off valve was utterly disintegrated. Many chunks of it has traveled downstream to the dishwasher fill valve.
    I had that exact same issue. The shut off valve was only about 10 years old, but the rubber seals inside fell apart and pieces of it clogged the dishwasher fill valve. In my case, that shut off valve was never used - when it fell apart, it might have been the first time I'd used it since it was installed. Did yours see more action?

  25. #7050
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    1,608
    Quote Originally Posted by KQ View Post
    Whoo boy is someone going to get a surprise in about 20yrs


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    That seems like a lot of wasted storage space.

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