Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

**old goat** · 10-25-2022, 10:28 PM

Originally Posted by nickwm21

When you spend more you can get:
- Nicer porcelain, looks better, cleans better
- Better seat, larger seat, higher, comfy, soft close
- Nicer flush valve, more metal, lasts longer, sucks down larger turds, more satisfying lever pull

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IME it's not the toilet that makes for a satisfying shit--it's the size and consistency of the turd. Kinda like the way it's not the espresso machine, it's the beans.
But then, to the best of my knowledge I've never sat, or shat, on a high end toilet, so what do I know?
OTOH Donald Trump I'm sure has the world's highest end toilet and he apparently has to flush 10-15 times. (Or does he have someone to fush for him?) And a gold toilet seat has to be cold.

**Mustonen** · 10-26-2022, 05:02 AM

Originally Posted by Thaleia

Re: all the higher end toilet talk some pages ago - what's the difference / benefit to a spendy john from a plumbing supply store vs a cheaper one from a big box hardware store?

I have an ancient toilet that I need to pull and reseal, and am considering just getting a new one in the process. I'm assuming newer will use less water - anything else for someone who's always had budget toilets to consider?

I’ve never purchased a high end toilet and I guess I have no idea what I’m missing.

You can use your old toilet as a really cute planter for the front yard, though.

**babybear** · 10-26-2022, 06:51 AM

^you must not have been to Japan yet because after a visit there you’ll never be satisfied with a basic toilet again

**jm2e** · 10-26-2022, 07:16 AM

Originally Posted by tgapp

Save your money on the toilet and get a fancy bidet instead. World's better investment.

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I just had my first colonoscopy. And I can say that our $80 non heated no frills bidet add on was a real godsend for those 10 trips to the shitter over 14 hours. I keep a neat little stack of repurposed operating room towels in there for pat drying my crack and sack, which has proven to be a marvelous routine, even on non-colon-cleanse days.

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**old goat** · 10-26-2022, 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by jm2e

I just had my first colonoscopy. And I can say that our $80 non heated no frills bidet add on was a real godsend for those 10 trips to the shitter over 14 hours. I keep a neat little stack of repurposed operating room towels in there for pat drying my crack and sack, which has proven to be a marvelous routine, even on non-colon-cleanse days.

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OTOH the toilet is a better place to dump the prep solution when you decide you can't choke it down.

**RootSkier** · 10-26-2022, 02:21 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

I'm not 100% sure what the finish is, other than it's very glossy (which I'm not a huge fan of).

Anyways, went ahead and sent it through the planer. Not a huge deal as it's only a handful of planks. Now I have some nice fresh wood to fuss around with and probably screw up.

If it's not too late I am obligated to point out that staining cherry is a mortal sin. Just say no. It will get dark on its own, especially as a window seat.

**dunfree** · 10-26-2022, 03:11 PM

Easiest way to stain cherry - leave it in the sun or other UV source

**old goat** · 10-26-2022, 10:41 PM

Originally Posted by RootSkier

If it's not too late I am obligated to point out that staining cherry is a mortal sin. Just say no. It will get dark on its own, especially as a window seat.

Not to mention the fact that "cherry" stain looks nothing like cherry wood, it looks like cherry fruit. (It does look good on my cherry burst Les Paul though.)

**skaredshtles** · 10-27-2022, 08:58 AM

You know, I could really go for some cherry pie right about now...

**dan_pdx** · 10-27-2022, 02:36 PM

Re: high end toilets, we had a one-piece Toto in our previous house and I appreciated how easy it was to clean: no manky gap between the tank and the bowl. But yeah, if you're choosing to spend on the toilet vs. getting a bidet, bidet all the way

**Ted Striker** · 10-27-2022, 03:07 PM

Originally Posted by old goat

Not to mention the fact that "cherry" stain looks nothing like cherry wood, it looks like cherry fruit. (It does look good on my cherry burst Les Paul though.)

Because your Les Paul is maple (but you already knew that)

Agree that the best "stain" for cherry and/or fir is sunlight

**dan_pdx** · 10-28-2022, 02:22 PM

You ever visit your folks, fix some wiggly towel bars for them, and then realize just before you need to leave that the toggle bolts you just installed block a pocket door?

**climberevan** · 10-28-2022, 03:54 PM

Originally Posted by dan_pdx

You ever visit your folks, fix some wiggly towel bars for them, and then realize just before you need to leave that the toggle bolts you just installed block a pocket door?

No, but I've used 2 1/2" finish nails to install baseboard in front of one.... D'oh!

**Foggy_Goggles** · 10-28-2022, 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by climberevan

No, but I've used 2 1/2" finish nails to install baseboard in front of one.... D'oh!

You're not a trim carpenter till you've nailed a pocket door. First thing do is write "no nails" behind the pocket door base. But generally, fuck pocket doors.

**dan_pdx** · 10-28-2022, 06:36 PM

Ha! Nice to know I'm in good company

**bagtagley** · 10-30-2022, 08:42 AM

The fence saga continues. They didn’t bother to come check the color when I told them I was getting started. Lesson: don’t send the colorblind guy to pickup the stain.

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I’m so over this fence. She likes the natural color and doesn’t want it to be “painted” and I’m unwilling to put the time and effort into a clearcoat that’s just going to waterproof and not prevent graying. My inclination is to leave it alone until it’s good and gray, then put a semi transparent on it. Is there any harm in leaving it natural for a couple years? My fence is the same treated pine and in 15 years has only been treated once with Thompsons. It’s weathered, but is fine.

**Garbowski** · 11-07-2022, 12:57 PM

I'm going to enclose our rear entryway to make a small mudroom. The existing overhang is over a concrete pad that is 82" wide x 55" deep. Not huge, but should give us enough room to get the mess of shoes and whatnot out of the kitchen.

At 55" deep, I was thinking of having the new exterior door swing out. We are in Seattle, so no real snow to worry about. Bad idea? Was going to keep the existing door for simplicity. No AC so will want to have the door open in summer I imagine. Either way I wont have a covered 'fumbling with keys' zone anymore, but I don't think that's a big deal. The pad is a few inches off the ground, but I figure if I have to I'll pour more area so it is not as awkward with the step.

The house is super old and not well insulated to begin with. Definitely not running HVAC. Don't want a room full of cold damp gear to put on. Should I think about a radiant floor or wall heater deal? Or get a couple boot dryers and call it good. For summer we're going to have windows and if I can find an old Dutch door was thinking of that as well.

**dan_pdx** · 11-07-2022, 01:31 PM

Originally Posted by Garbowski

I'm going to enclose our rear entryway to make a small mudroom. The existing overhang is over a concrete pad that is 82" wide x 55" deep. Not huge, but should give us enough room to get the mess of shoes and whatnot out of the kitchen.

At 55" deep, I was thinking of having the new exterior door swing out. We are in Seattle, so no real snow to worry about. Bad idea? Was going to keep the existing door for simplicity. No AC so will want to have the door open in summer I imagine. Either way I wont have a covered 'fumbling with keys' zone anymore, but I don't think that's a big deal. The pad is a few inches off the ground, but I figure if I have to I'll pour more area so it is not as awkward with the step.

The house is super old and not well insulated to begin with. Definitely not running HVAC. Don't want a room full of cold damp gear to put on. Should I think about a radiant floor or wall heater deal? Or get a couple boot dryers and call it good. For summer we're going to have windows and if I can find an old Dutch door was thinking of that as well.

Agreed some heat would be nice to have in there. If the primary use is drying out gear, I think a wall heater makes more sense than spending the money to install radiant floor heating - save the heated floors for areas where you're going to spend more time. Boot dryers in addition to the cadet heater sound good too.

**toast2266** · 11-07-2022, 03:57 PM

Originally Posted by RootSkier

If it's not too late I am obligated to point out that staining cherry is a mortal sin. Just say no. It will get dark on its own, especially as a window seat.

Missed this before, but you're not too late. That project got delayed a bit, so I'm just now getting back into it. What's your take for a semi-durable finish on it? I was thinking a coat or two of tung oil and then a couple coats of satin polyurethane.

**bagtagley** · 11-07-2022, 04:29 PM

I love Tung Oil. It creates a really nice, natural finish. It's somewhat protective, though not as much as poly, and it has to be reapplied every so often. You can overcoat Tung oil once its completely dry, but I'd see how it holds up before you do.

FTR, I'm talking about real Tung Oil that I thin myself, not Tung Oil Finish like the stuff from Minwax (which I think is actually linseed).

**zion zig zag** · 11-08-2022, 10:25 AM

Thermostat question. I have a place that is radiant floor heat only that we turn down to 55 degrees when we are away. Floor heat being what it is takes a long time to respond to changes, so if I could turn the heat up remotely a day in advance that would make my wife pretty happy. Also, the heat is on 5 different zones, any reason we shouldn't just change the thermostat in the main living area and control that one? Like any concerns of that zone working too hard trying to balance the rest of the house. Sorry, seriously a boiler jong.

So any thermostat recommendations? Will any of them work without some type of smart house hub? I googled a bit but figured the brain trust here may help me narrow it down.

**Mustonen** · 11-08-2022, 10:46 AM

Originally Posted by zion zig zag

Thermostat question. I have a place that is radiant floor heat only that we turn down to 55 degrees when we are away. Floor heat being what it is takes a long time to respond to changes, so if I could turn the heat up remotely a day in advance that would make my wife pretty happy. Also, the heat is on 5 different zones, any reason we shouldn't just change the thermostat in the main living area and control that one? Like any concerns of that zone working too hard trying to balance the rest of the house. Sorry, seriously a boiler jong.

So any thermostat recommendations? Will any of them work without some type of smart house hub? I googled a bit but figured the brain trust here may help me narrow it down.

I’ve been happy with my Ecobee, particularly for what you describe. It learns how quick the areas it monitors heats up, factoring in outside weather, and will run the schedule so the desired temperature is achieved at the time you set it for and worries about when to turn the boiler on or off for you, plus it avoids the yo-yo-ing that radiant heat systems are notorious for. It’s honestly pretty impressive and I admit to being a little bit geekily mystified by/in awe of it. I’m sure most smart thermostats will do something similar.

The Ecobee doesn’t require any kind of hub, but you’d need one ecobee per zone you’re trying to control. No reason you can’t run everything else off dumb thermostats, though. It’ll wreak a small amount of havoc with how smart the ecobee is, but you can probably control for that pretty well just with adding sensors to those dumb areas?

**muted reborn** · 11-08-2022, 10:50 AM

Siding question - our house was built around 1950, is brick, with no insulation in the outside walls. The brick color is not looking great, unlike many nice brick houses found in the Midwest or out east, IMO. So I want to paint the brick at the minimum, or see what my options are for siding for looks and insulation. Any help is appreciated. I live in 100+ weather and also 20-30 degree weahter for winter here in Utah, low humidity of course.

Is there any other options to insulate the outside besides vinyl with EPS? Because I don't like the vinyl look. Wondering about any insulating siding, but also specifically board and batton because I like how it can look.

Dumb question but what is the siding called that looks like stucco but is perfectly smooth, almost like plaster applied, then painted any color? Or is it just stucco smoothed out by a pro? Is this easy to apply to brick? Presuming there is no insulation benefits in it - and that's fine, just interested in the nice clean look and how much it would cost.

**Mustonen** · 11-08-2022, 10:54 AM

^^ I have no solutions or advice, except to say that applying stucco sucks.

**oldnew_guy** · 11-08-2022, 11:09 AM

Originally Posted by Mustonen

I’ve been happy with my Ecobee, particularly for what you describe. It learns how quick the areas it monitors heats up, factoring in outside weather, and will run the schedule so the desired temperature is achieved at the time you set it for and worries about when to turn the boiler on or off for you, plus it avoids the yo-yo-ing that radiant heat systems are notorious for. It’s honestly pretty impressive and I admit to being a little bit geekily mystified by/in awe of it. I’m sure most smart thermostats will do something similar.

The Ecobee doesn’t require any kind of hub, but you’d need one ecobee per zone you’re trying to control. No reason you can’t run everything else off dumb thermostats, though. It’ll wreak a small amount of havoc with how smart the ecobee is, but you can probably control for that pretty well just with adding sensors to those dumb areas?

Does the ecobee need to be connected to the internet to work?