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  1. #4926
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    My GF has all that pro grade shit cuz her husband was a carpenter doing post n beam, its nice to go over fixing something and you know she has all the tools
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #4927
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
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    13,503
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    You're wrong! Very wrong!
    I agree with Tuco. All high-end paint-grade trim is painted (sprayed) after installation, unless your builder is a hack, or unless it is a very small portion of the whole house. This is the only way to get perfect results and ensure there are no gaps between the trim and wall, etc. Totally different than stain-grade trim.

  3. #4928
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    关你屁事
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    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Home depot sells a Stanley miter box with saw for $39 that looks like it will do as good a job on trim as a power miter saw depending on the skill of the operator. Carpenters were doing excellent trim work long before there were power miter saws. That's assuming there's no wobble in the setup. And it looks like it's a mail order item.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-...-800/100197650

    Amazon carries one for 49 bucks
    https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Mit...s%2C255&sr=8-4
    carpenters werenít dragging Langdon acme mitre boxes to the work site - and more importantly, itís harder to recut.

  4. #4929
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    2,564
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    I agree with Tuco. All high-end paint-grade trim is painted (sprayed) after installation, unless your builder is a hack, or unless it is a very small portion of the whole house. This is the only way to get perfect results and ensure there are no gaps between the trim and wall, etc. Totally different than stain-grade trim.
    Stain grade after install as well.

  5. #4930
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    14,485
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    On the trim front…

    I need to do a small amount of trim, but not enough to justify a miter saw.

    Is there a miter jig that is actually worth getting to cut trim that is accurate with angles beyond the typical 45 and 90 you get with a cheapo miter box?
    You have a table saw, portable or otherwise?
    Google table saw miter jigs. I have the Incra and I haven't used a dedicated miter saw in years.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  6. #4931
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,202
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    You have a table saw, portable or otherwise?
    Google table saw miter jigs. I have the Incra and I haven't used a dedicated miter saw in years.
    No.

    Iím thinking of getting a track for my existing skil saw or buying a track saw. Depends on what projects I get into.

    Borrowing or renting is great if I had a bigger project, Iím just doing a few odds and ends here and there as the come up so looking for an alternative. Iím not trimming out a house.

    I used to have the whole works: 10Ē compound miter and stand. It was nice, but overkill for what Iím doing these days.

  7. #4932
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
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    1,202
    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    @ old_newguy, I have a decent miter saw (DeWalt DW 716) and a fancy finish blade you're welcome to borrow, but you have to drive out to SE PDX to pick it up.
    You are very generous. Iíll let you know!

  8. #4933
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    4,266
    Quote Originally Posted by old_newguy View Post
    No.

    I’m thinking of getting a track for my existing skil saw or buying a track saw. Depends on what projects I get into.

    Borrowing or renting is great if I had a bigger project, I’m just doing a few odds and ends here and there as the come up so looking for an alternative. I’m not trimming out a house.

    I used to have the whole works: 10” compound miter and stand. It was nice, but overkill for what I’m doing these days.
    Hit the pawn shops for one of those old skool 10" makita chop saws. If you don't need compound, pull miters and that shit, they're awesome. They're small, lock solid with no slop and they're usually pretty cheap because everyone needs 12" super pull double compound with laser light show and cup holder.

  9. #4934
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,564
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Stain grade after install as well.
    Here's is an exception. 6" red oak t&g. Oak will be bleached, stained, and cleared before install.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's going on the ceiling above the stack and in this picture.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	384302. And just in case you didn't think carpenter's don't laser shit plumb, level and square that's what those shims on the osb sheeted ceiling are for.

  10. #4935
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    14,485
    Wait. They're putting a floor on the ceiling? What are they flooring with, 1/2" sheetrock?

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    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  11. #4936
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,564
    Yeah, they're putting flooring on the ceiling
    Time for another lap?
    Edit: yeah, sorry,I see, fuckin don't know how to change that

  12. #4937
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    2 hours from anything
    Posts
    9,462
    Maybe this belongs in the wildfire thread but my attic has two types of vents, small hole vents with metal screens in the soffit and large gable ventswith screens. Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Should these vents be fire hardened any more or just make sure all the screens are there?

    I also just had the roof replaced and they put in a ridge vent all the way where before there was none, so we added ventilation.

  13. #4938
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    1,202
    https://www.nfpa.org/-/media/Files/F...ces.ashx?la=en

    Iíd consult with my local fire department. They probably have someone who can do an entire assessment on your property if you are worried about wildfire hazard.

    At least you have vents. Iím trying to figure out what to do with my completely unvented attic. Near as I can tell it is built so loose it just works, but Iíd like to tighten it up from a pest perspective.

  14. #4939
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    https://firesafemarin.org/harden-you...sistant-vents/

    You should look at boxing those eaves in too.

  15. #4940
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
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    16,470
    Quote Originally Posted by neufox47 View Post
    Maybe this belongs in the wildfire thread but my attic has two types of vents, small hole vents with metal screens in the soffit and large gable ventswith screens. Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Should these vents be fire hardened any more or just make sure all the screens are there?

    I also just had the roof replaced and they put in a ridge vent all the way where before there was none, so we added ventilation.
    beyond tighter metal mesh, there isn't much that you can do reasonably.

    check with your locale for the intake/exhaust quantities, you want to not have more exhaust than intake because it will negatively pressure your house and waste a ton of energy.

    if you were renovating the place, you might consider eliminating the attic as unconditioned space by insulating it & closing up all the attic vents.
    it would offer a tighter thermal envelope to help with energy consumption

  16. #4941
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    932
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Here's is an exception. 6" red oak t&g. Oak will be bleached, stained, and cleared before install.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PXL_20210902_193641016.jpg 
Views:	65 
Size:	1.29 MB 
ID:	384301
    It's going on the ceiling above the stack and in this picture.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PXL_20210902_193930147.jpg 
Views:	67 
Size:	1.54 MB 
ID:	384302. And just in case you didn't think carpenter's don't laser shit plumb, level and square that's what those shims on the osb sheeted ceiling are for.
    Post some after photos....that will look nice.

  17. #4942
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    2,564
    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    beyond tighter metal mesh, there isn't much that you can do reasonably.

    check with your locale for the intake/exhaust quantities, you want to not have more exhaust than intake because it will negatively pressure your house and waste a ton of energy.

    if you were renovating the place, you might consider eliminating the attic as unconditioned space by insulating it & closing up all the attic vents.
    it would offer a tighter thermal envelope to help with energy consumption
    Pairing ridge venting w/ gable vents is a no no.
    It creates a cross flow scenario
    No?

  18. #4943
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    Mar 2009
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    2,564
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbumpsalot View Post
    Post some after photos....that will look nice.
    Will do

  19. #4944
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    May 2009
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    inpdx
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Pairing ridge venting w/ gable vents I believe is a no no.
    No?
    attic venting in general is a compromise situation that has little upside
    it doesn't really do what people think it does

    gable + ridge just kinda clouds it up further

  20. #4945
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    attic venting in general is a compromise situation that has little upside
    it doesn't really do what people think it does

    gable + ridge just kinda clouds it up further
    Idk. Brother and I had to rebuild the roof @ our parents where a pitched roof was put on top of a flat roof(yep , some stupid fuck framed a flat roof house in cottonwood heights) w) mansard w/ 0 ventilation. Trusses were fuckin cooked.

  21. #4946
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    Mar 2009
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    2,564
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Idk. Brother and I had to rebuild the roof @ our parents where a pitched roof was put on top of a flat roof w) mansard w/ 0 ventilation. Trusses were fuckin cooked.
    This was 20 years ago. Now thinking about it, they had sheeted the roof deck with plywood and they were so cooked the veneers delammed. 0 structural integrity at that point.
    I believe in venting the attic space

  22. #4947
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    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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    19,286
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    My GF has all that pro grade shit cuz her husband was a carpenter doing post n beam, its nice to go over fixing something and you know she has all the tools
    Why doesn't she get the husband to do the fixing while you two have sex?

    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    carpenters weren’t dragging Langdon acme mitre boxes to the work site - and more importantly, it’s harder to recut.
    So cut it right the first time. (It's not the tool I would use. I have a miter saw.

  23. #4948
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    Aug 2016
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    Shit can get hot but that sounds more like a glue failure from mfg than a cooking problem. That stuff should take a boil, sometimes things duck up.

    old goat - sure. If a beginner is asking for advice “get it right to 1/32” the first time ain’t usually useful

  24. #4949
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    Mar 2009
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    2,564
    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    Shit can get hot but that sounds more like a glue failure from mfg than a cooking problem.
    Nope(maybe?) Too dry and hot in attic cooked the shit.
    Framing members were so dry, light and fragile, Blizzard could a milled R11 cores from them

  25. #4950
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    I believe in venting the attic space
    Better strategy is to insulate the roof from the outside & make the attic part of the conditioned space.
    Better envelope
    better energy use

    vented attics are a remnant of an age when we didn't insulate
    they are a compromise situation that allows us to spend less on the envelope, but not to our benefit
    if they weren't in the prescriptive code, building science & subsequent codes would get rid of them

    i think they will eventually be eliminated in almost all climate zones

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