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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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10-08-2019, 01:46 PM #1276Registered User
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2009. I didn't build it. Let's just say they built it in a hurry.
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10-08-2019, 03:51 PM #1277
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10-16-2019, 06:42 AM #1278Registered User
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Slightly different question for the experts:
What is the recommendation for max low temp to prep and paint the exterior of a new house. Google tells me 50 degrees.
We are approaching the finish of a new house and I want to make sure that the builder doesn't push past the envelope in painting the exterior (as our temps drop). I'm sure he is feeling pressure to get us into a "finished" house, but if it will cause problems later on with the paint, I'd rather move in to an unpainted house and wait until spring for paint.
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10-16-2019, 10:25 AM #1279
I'd worry more about humidity
But temp is important too...for temp, follow the mfr's instructions and always choose more temperate days to pursue painting. Trying to sneak it in around the extremes of the recommended temp range will induce more risk obviously. This goes for time of day too. Finishing up in the dark as the temp drops precipitously isn't good either. If you want guaranteed installs, plan the painting around the seasons best suited to doing the work
Also, cement board siding is way more forgiving than wood [more dimensionally stable, less challenge to the coating]...if that is pertinent
[my house? i'd wait for spring warmth & dryer days, but i'm in a pretty humid area]
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10-21-2019, 03:30 PM #1280
Latest snafu on this old house is a damaged foundation wall in a crawl space beneath a small sunroom external to the main house foundation. There is no footing beneath the foundation wall and I believe a deceased tree root is the likely culprit. I noticed that the ground beneath the plastic sheeting in the crawl was accumulating moisture and pinned it to this spot where I unearthed this crumbled area. Not seeing any other foundation damage or ill affects of not having a footing under the sunroom. Suggestions for patching the foundation here to make things water tight again?
foundation by snoop luther, on Flickr
Photo shows the interior side. Can see where the dirt line was before I pulled the dirt back. Hole is almost all the way up to the grade line. Foundation wall height approximately 18".
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10-21-2019, 03:48 PM #1281
hierarchy of fixes:
1) check that all gutters are working properly & downspouts kick water away from foundation
2) cover exposed wall at this area w/ overhanging eave
3) regrade adjacent earth to direct water away from this zone (or add foundation drain, french drain, etc)
4) add a physical cover to the exterior of the foundation wall in question (waterproofing membrane or sim)
5) patch foundation hole but expect water to still find a way in (interior-side waterproofing solutions are not effective unless they are an active water management system (ie pumping away any intruding water))
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10-21-2019, 03:53 PM #1282
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10-21-2019, 05:20 PM #1283
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10-21-2019, 07:39 PM #1284
Cool, any advice appreciated
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10-21-2019, 07:47 PM #1285Funky But Chic
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I'd look into foam products and think about just filling it with some waterproof minimally-expanding foam.
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10-23-2019, 03:39 PM #1286Registered User
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I'm drilling through metal studs to put up some heavy shelves with a lot of dishes on the shelves. I have no idea how much dishes weigh, but I'd guess the whole setup is maybe 50 pounds. Seems like online research says you should use toggles for metal studs, but since they are not easily available at big box stores, I'm thinking not many people use toggles.
Do I go to amazon.com and order toggles or use drywall anchors like (maybe) most online advice says? Anyone have real world experience?
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10-23-2019, 03:46 PM #1287Registered User
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No much help for you but one of my least favorite things about metal studs is adding blocking(for cabinets, bathrooms etc etc). Obviously you wouldve had to done this while building, i.e. pre-drywall.
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10-23-2019, 03:49 PM #1288Funky But Chic
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Why fuck around? 50-pack of toggles on Grainger for $22. https://www.grainger.com/product/11K...CABEgJU2fD_BwE
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10-23-2019, 04:09 PM #1289Registered User
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Because I'm a lazy, sloppy home improvement joe-schmoe. And also with anchors I could be done today, with toggles I'll be done Friday.
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10-23-2019, 04:13 PM #1290Funky But Chic
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Ah. Well smoke a joint before you do it, then.
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10-23-2019, 04:19 PM #1291
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10-23-2019, 05:03 PM #1292
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10-23-2019, 05:11 PM #1293
No hardware store to buy toggles? I can get them there or the local lumberyard.
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10-23-2019, 05:15 PM #1294Registered User
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10-23-2019, 05:18 PM #1295Registered User
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it makes everything make sense in my world
anyone know what the best makeup product or concealer I should use after getting a face shot of sewage today? if it burns alittle do you think I'm ok? didn't have time to wash my face afterwards only had time to wipe it with a dirty rag?
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10-23-2019, 05:19 PM #1296Registered User
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10-23-2019, 05:24 PM #1297
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10-23-2019, 05:35 PM #1298Registered User
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mother fucker!!! oh well, learning a lot in this large remodel throughout the building. just one of many things done out of order....but many things have gone really well I guess.
thanks guys. I'll do toggles and a joint.
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10-23-2019, 05:42 PM #1299
If you can’t open the wall and put in backing... toggles are industry standard in commercial TI work.
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10-23-2019, 07:04 PM #1300
Never had any trouble buying toggles at HD. Drywall anchors for a shelf full of dishes sounds insane. Remember that the weight of the dishes is multiplied by the lever arm.
BTW--after our contractor framed our addition I photographed all the walls so I would know where all the studs and blocking are. Wish I had done that when I framed our second story.
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