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  1. #2376
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wasatch Back: 7000'
    Posts
    12,966
    Anyone remodeling a bathroom? So am I. I have a bunch of MOEN brushed nickel hardware (2 faucets, shower kit and hand held) along with a super sexy frameless 7' (2 pieces of glass) glass barn door that I want to get out of my house.
    “How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix

  2. #2377
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,111
    Ha. Some guy left a large bucket of really nice lever style interior door handles with a free sign at the side of the road. My wife took them. They aren't compatible with the latches we have. I guess we'll have to get out our "free" sign.

  3. #2378
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,141
    Free stuff can sometimes be excellent. I had a big glue on mirror out for like 3 weeks and someone finally took it. It's so much better than throwing stuff away!
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  4. #2379
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,111
    Sign on a table that has had free stuff on it all week "Please do not leave your junk here for us to throw out." And at another location--Free, please don't take the sign.

    Still see CRT TV's for free from time to time.

  5. #2380
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    So. VT
    Posts
    2,829
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    I guess we'll have to get out our "free" sign.
    I put out a pile of 4'x4' slatwall this summer. I payed it on a few short chunk s of 4x4 post (maybe a foot long?) So I could get under it to lift if need be.

    Guy took the slatwall, my three chunks of 4x4, the cardboard free sign and the rock I had weighing it down.

  6. #2381
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    base of the Bush
    Posts
    14,871
    Cleaned up for you, nice.

    We have shit all over the place here, especially along main routes at the end of dead end roads, that has been out "for free" literally for weeks. Fucking shitshow at some corners.
    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

  7. #2382
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
    Posts
    19,067
    In my hood you can put pretty much anything in the ally except an old urine soaked mattress and the people that cruise the alleys will take it back to TJ.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  8. #2383
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,111
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    In my hood you can put pretty much anything in the ally except an old urine soaked mattress and the people that cruise the alleys will take it back to TJ.
    Good to know the people in Tijuana have standards. In Sacramento old urine soaked mattresses are in high demand. Beats sleeping on concrete.

  9. #2384
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    I need some dry rot repair advice on a inside sill of a casement window. The crank mechanism is moving due to loose screws in the dry rotted sill. Can I repair or put in a new sill with the window still installed ? I already have tried tooth picks, wood glue as well as some plastic weed eater line to tighten things up but the whole sill is one big sponge at this point.Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #2385
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197
    I don’t know how you avoid removing the window & likely siding/sheathing to see how far the damage goes (not sure if just pulling trim & some sheetrock gets you the right view)

  11. #2386
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,274
    Yeah I'd start by removing trim to get a better look but I'd imagine the window was never properly flashed and unfortunately will end up replacing window by the looks of the dampness/mold on the actual window frame as well. You could "maybe" rip out/replace the rotted wood and remount crank mechanism but it would be a band aid at best. What does exterior siding/trim look like? Depending how the window was trimmed out it could be close to same amount of time to replace window minus actual window cost.

  12. #2387
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    The exterior trim is solid. I think the bottom seal of the window failed causing the mixture to collect. Bandaid for now is just fine. Can I just cut out the sill, then replace with new wood and remount the crank ?

  13. #2388
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,274
    Hard for me to tell from pic but you could probably pull off the lower trim and sill extension and sill(what's rotted) and rip a new sill out of 1x. Issues I can think off would be cutting out the sill and sill extension(I'd use a flush cutter). How the actual sill is attached to window frame( most likely staples but could have screws). And by that point you can see framing/spray foam and you might need a way to shim to the framing for a way to get a solid attachment.

    Or not, but that's how I would go about it for a "band-aid".

  14. #2389
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,761
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    The exterior trim is solid. I think the bottom seal of the window failed causing the mixture to collect. Bandaid for now is just fine. Can I just cut out the sill, then replace with new wood and remount the crank ?
    Possibly - As you take it apart it will be apparent whether the window is flashed correctly - so be prepared for some extra cost/work.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
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    Squaw Valley, USA

  15. #2390
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    base of the Bush
    Posts
    14,871
    Virtually impossible to remove a casement sill, fabricate a replacement and install it so it works correctly. That is more likely damage from water splashing in when it is raining and condensation based on the condition/staining of the sash. Replace.
    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

  16. #2391
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,053
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    The exterior trim is solid. I think the bottom seal of the window failed causing the mixture to collect. Bandaid for now is just fine. Can I just cut out the sill, then replace with new wood and remount the crank ?
    Not much to lose. Give it a shot.

    Maybe a fein cutter to trim it flush with the aluminum. Unless it’s so rotten the entire sill falls off. The sill extends under that rail, and is usually structural, but doubtful in your case.

    Alternatively you can scrape the rotten wood and treat the gash with minwax wood hardener, and then auto body bondo. But I think you’re too far gone.
    . . .

  17. #2392
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    Seems like a good thread to put this in:

    This is the roof on a house in the Montreux neighborhood near Reno - all $1MM+, gated, golf course, snooty, etc. Elevation about 5700', definitely accumulates snow in winter. That little valley in the roof looks like it was designed to create ice dams.



    Not my house, just something I walk the dogs by regularly. I live in the neighborhood next door, on the other side of their fence...
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  18. #2393
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    Not much to lose. Give it a shot.

    Maybe a fein cutter to trim it flush with the aluminum. Unless it’s so rotten the entire sill falls off. The sill extends under that rail, and is usually structural, but doubtful in your case.

    Alternatively you can scrape the rotten wood and treat the gash with minwax wood hardener, and then auto body bondo. But I think you’re too far gone.
    That is my plan, grabbed a can of bondo and I'll see what happens. At this point I have nothing to lose. Won't be able to do anything until the smoke clears here.
    Last edited by fatnslow; 09-14-2020 at 12:13 PM.

  19. #2394
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Haxorland
    Posts
    7,103
    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    Day 2.5: I think we're fully committed at this point

    Attachment 332053
    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    I'm a heavy civil contractor, so I'm thoroughly aware of what disrupts projects. Mostly Owners not having their job figured out by the time we start building, which then allows the contractor to rail away with change orders and delays. A large portion of my job is related to dealing with changes on projects with government agencies, so I know the pitfalls. Armed with this information, we've been figuring this project out for well over a year now. Construction is just the home stretch and my contractor is pretty buried in information and I keep hammering him with 'What'd I miss? What else do I need to finish selecting?"

    As for what's happening, from approximately the same angle

    Attachment 332169

    2nd floor master suite and loft office area ~650 sqft
    garage pushes forward 5' to create an enclosed laundry room/pantry
    The end is near! Maybe 2-3 weeks out. Big rebuild TR to come soon. Yes, 4 months demo to punchout for a 700 sqft second floor. Having a plan and sticking to it matters.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  20. #2395
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    Before you put the bondo down try some of this to stabilize the rot underneath.
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    Heh, wood hardener.

    It actually works pretty well on rotted sills and such but I’d avoid applying it to yer Johnson
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  21. #2396
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    Before you put the bondo down try some of this to stabilize the rot underneath.
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    Heh, wood hardener.

    It actually works pretty well on rotted sills and such but I’d avoid applying it to yer Johnson
    I'll run it by the wife

  22. #2397
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,761

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Need some pro tips...

    My electrical panel is in the laundry room, which has an inaccessible crawl space under it, inaccessible attic above it. The laundry room was added at some point in time in the past and the foundation stem wall of the original house blocks you from getting under the laundry room...

    I need to fish two circuits thru the crawl space and up to the panel - 6/3 for the future hot tub and a 12/2 for the garage.

    So the panel is at like chest height and the accessible crawl space is 7’ away. So I need to fish down from the panel vertically about 4’ and then horizontally about 7’ to get into the accessible crawl space.

    I know this is possible because we had a split system installed and the sparky did exactly what I am trying to do, he drilled a hole inside the crawl space and fished the power thru and up to the panel. I can look thru the vents and see the romex...

    So how?

    Drop metal fish tape down from the panel and try to get lucky with a fish stick with a magnet at the end from the crawl space side?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  23. #2398
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    665
    String and fiberglass wand.

  24. #2399
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,388
    Caulk gun and a tube of liquid nails. Remove all screws slather the whole thing with LN, use an old slate piece of wood as a putty knife so you don’t have to clean your knife, work it into the cracks and holes, replace bracket and screws. Let set 24 hours.


    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    I need some dry rot repair advice on a inside sill of a casement window. The crank mechanism is moving due to loose screws in the dry rotted sill. Can I repair or put in a new sill with the window still installed ? I already have tried tooth picks, wood glue as well as some plastic weed eater line to tighten things up but the whole sill is one big sponge at this point.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	windowsill.jpg 
Views:	143 
Size:	1.14 MB 
ID:	339407

  25. #2400
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
    Posts
    2,031
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post

    So how?

    Drop metal fish tape down from the panel and try to get lucky with a fish stick with a magnet at the end from the crawl space side?
    I have had good results with a weighted cotton ball on a string. Then use my shop vac (and swimming pool vacuum hoses, for length), with multiple extensions.
    Suck the string, pull a cord, pull the cable.

    Works well with conduit, too.

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