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  1. #1451
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    6,166
    I still have no idea what the scope of work is for the mystic $300. You are saving the risers and the handrail and R&R just the treads with prefinished treads? Like Root, I could tell you all kinds of reasons why that sounds like a bad idea...but hey if you've got a guy that is saying he can do it to your satisfaction for that price, have at it. Seems real cheap to me.

  2. #1452
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    12,169
    Paint the treads dark gray and replace the runner.

  3. #1453
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Beaverton, OR
    Posts
    318
    Mystical 300 is just for replacing treads and staining them. Not sure if that includes install or not. I am waiting for estimate.

    Rest of job is already quoted I have no issues with that.

  4. #1454
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    1,400

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Alright what say the collective. Closing on a place this Monday and wanting to do a soft remodel on the upstairs.

    The list being:
    - new flooring
    - paint
    - painting cabinets
    - new trim
    - reducing a partial wall to about 1/2 the height and (possibly) eliminating a vertical post to open up the room.

    My question is aside from hiring a contractor/engineer how else can I tell if this vertical support is actually load bearing or just aesthetic? Itís a vaulted ceiling so I would presume that the support is built into the rafters.

    Here are pictures
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    Thanks for the help


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  5. #1455
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Central OR
    Posts
    5,155
    If thatís aesthetic, itís a strange choice. Iíd go with load-bearing.

  6. #1456
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    849

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Vote is structural. If so span doesnít look huge so remove and replace with beam not too bad?

  7. #1457
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,272
    Access to attic or no? Otherwise gotta cut a hole in sheetrock to make sure post isn't load bearing. Also make sure there isn't a point load transfering down lower. Although except for that outlet shouldn't be a problem knocking out that weird half wall.

  8. #1458
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Bozone
    Posts
    1,418
    is there a crawlspace under that floor or another finished level? If crawlspace, and there's a supporting girder, post or wall under it - structural. If it's a finished space and there's a wall under it - most likely structural. If it doesn't look structural, you still gotta hold your horses and make sure there's nothing stupid inside like wires or DWV before you go windmilling on it with a sledgehammer.

  9. #1459
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    The Cone of Uncertainty
    Posts
    48,601
    Why would it be there if it's not structural? It ain't like it's a feature.

    Personally I'd forget about removing that and instead just get rid of the low wall with the wood top that butts up to it. I think the whole room will be better with that gone.

  10. #1460
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    12,682

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Since weíre just guessing on the internet, Iím going with not structural.

    Iím only guessing that based on it doesnít line up with the ridge. Iím thinking thereís a ridge beam up there catching the roof framing.

    (ISBMís idea of looking below is a good one)

    let us know who wins...

  11. #1461
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    5,587
    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    Since we’re just guessing on the internet, I’m going with not structural.

    I’m only guessing that based on it doesn’t line up with the ridge. I’m thinking there’s a ridge beam up there catching the roof framing.

    (ISBM’s idea of looking below is a good one)

    let us know who wins...
    I'm going with a utility vent or run of some form. This being the second floor and not on the ridge as you mention.
    Live Free or Die

  12. #1462
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Fraggle Rock, CO
    Posts
    5,782
    My vote is structural. Why in the hell else would am architect/designer put such a disjointed feature in that spot?
    Brandine: Now Cletus, if I catch you with pig lipstick on your collar one more time you ain't gonna be allowed to sleep in the barn no more!
    Cletus: Duly noted.

  13. #1463
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    5,587
    This doesn't feel like a house an architect was involved with if you ask me.
    Live Free or Die

  14. #1464
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    1,400

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Thanks for the insight guys!
    I agree as well, why the heck put it there if itís not serving a function. It doesnít line up with the top ridge line making it more likely an electrical conduit or vent of some type. But could tie into a rafter/beam and be supportive.

    The plan: get up into the attic and see where it ties into the rafters possible see whatís coming out of it. Then go below and see if it lines up with a wall or some other load-bearing surface.

    Step two: remove a bit of drywall and see if itís box framed or solid.

    Agreed here, no designer was involved in this. House was built in Ď96 for a 60 year old lady who chose pink / mauve whenever possible.

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    Second question should we eliminate the 1/2 wall or make it more the height of a chair rail?

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  15. #1465
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    12,169
    I'm not sure I'd eliminate it when the stairs are right there and you'd need a railing anyways. My vote is not structural, BTW.

    If it was up to me and I had a really limited budget/timeframe, I'd cut it down to match the handrail, get rid of the wingwall, and box in or replace that ghastly post. Replacing the lights will help a lot, too.

  16. #1466
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    5,879
    Quote Originally Posted by ski-wpk View Post
    We just did a metal roof. 3.2x cost of asphalt, plus another $3k in snow guards to keep sliding snow from ripping the gutters off. Sweet.
    I'm about to research snow guards for a metal roof, any quick tips or advice?

  17. #1467
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    849
    Price varies a lot by supplier and installer. The brand we went with is something crazy like $30/LF and is bought in 8 ft ďsticksĒ so we 1) are only installing above doorways and decks and 2) are sticking to 8 ft increments to save on materials.

  18. #1468
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    5,879
    Quote Originally Posted by ski-wpk View Post
    Price varies a lot by supplier and installer. The brand we went with is something crazy like $30/LF and is bought in 8 ft “sticks” so we 1) are only installing above doorways and decks and 2) are sticking to 8 ft increments to save on materials.
    Thanks, that's good to know when shopping around. Did you get ones that drill into the roof or clamp on like these: https://www.aceclamp.com/

  19. #1469
    DJSapp's Avatar
    DJSapp is online now (╯į□į)╯︵ ┻━┻
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    All over NCal
    Posts
    6,372
    Quote Originally Posted by AdironRider View Post
    I'm going with a utility vent or run of some form. This being the second floor and not on the ridge as you mention.
    I'm with you on this. Is there a bathroom below here? Sewer/Furnace/Water Heater vent?
    Fat fuck bubbas are not erosion.

  20. #1470
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    your vacation
    Posts
    2,009
    Quote Originally Posted by Cruiser View Post
    My vote is structural. Why in the hell else would am architect/designer put such a disjointed feature in that spot?
    Why were kitchens in separate "rooms" up until 15-20 years ago. Why is there a stairway right there when you walk into the front door of a house? People design alot if stupid shit and continue to do so. The post has a ton of wires in it other than that get rid of it. I'm pretty sure its soul purpose was to have something to wrap garlands around at xmas

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  21. #1471
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    7,701

    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Could be structural. We had a post like that and moved it during remodel. We added extra support members above and below, and now it doesnít line up with the roofline.
    Itíd be nice to chat with the builder, eh?
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  22. #1472
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    12,682
    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    I'm with you on this. Is there a bathroom below here? Sewer/Furnace/Water Heater vent?
    it's got an odd profile...endcaps narrower than body of "wall"
    something is in there

  23. #1473
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    8,449
    Thanks, Foggy!

    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    1/4 will be easy to rectify with the tile install by making your thinset a little thicker in the low spot. Self leveling compound isn't meant to go between layers of ply or under tile backer, and will crack and be useless if used that way. It should go over the backer (Hardie or Wonderboard), under the thinset if you want to use it.

    If you're ok with the height change, your 3/4 ply over the existing 1/2 plan is ok. It will easily span the area around the toilet flange. You could also rip up the existing first if you don't like the height.

    You will also need to put 1/4 tile backer over the 3/4 ply (thinset it down, then screw to the ply with the special screws). Ditra will also work here. The main thing is that you can't tile directly to the plywood.

    Source: I'm a remodeling GC. Most of this stuff is pretty easily DIY but there are obviously some things to learn.
    Thanks, I figured out I couldn't use the self-leveling. Some sanding and bracing got me level, and the plywood is down. My initial reading indicated that plywood was an acceptable surface for tile, but digging deeper, I see that people aren't doing that much anymore. With everything, I'm already going to be way above the level of the hallway floor. Adding Ditra or cement board is going to take me way high. What are my other options? Some people recommend adding Keraflex to the thinset mix. Would that work? What about a painted membrane over the ply like Aquadefense?
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  24. #1474
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    12,169

  25. #1475
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    11,523
    Root, I know this used to be your thing, but wood flooring in a bathroom, really? How will it not be fubared when the toilet inevitably overflows?

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