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  1. #1276
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    Oct 2015
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    2009. I didn't build it. Let's just say they built it in a hurry.

  2. #1277
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    seattle
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    604
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    It is not done. You can adjust the stops and hardware or you can get new doors.
    That is what I surmised after trying to bend a bowing table I recently built. Iíll try adjusting the jams and hardware first as Iíd like to save the doors.

  3. #1278
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    493
    Slightly different question for the experts:

    What is the recommendation for max low temp to prep and paint the exterior of a new house. Google tells me 50 degrees.

    We are approaching the finish of a new house and I want to make sure that the builder doesn't push past the envelope in painting the exterior (as our temps drop). I'm sure he is feeling pressure to get us into a "finished" house, but if it will cause problems later on with the paint, I'd rather move in to an unpainted house and wait until spring for paint.

  4. #1279
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    May 2009
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    inpdx
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowagriz View Post
    Slightly different question for the experts:

    What is the recommendation for max low temp to prep and paint the exterior of a new house. Google tells me 50 degrees.

    We are approaching the finish of a new house and I want to make sure that the builder doesn't push past the envelope in painting the exterior (as our temps drop). I'm sure he is feeling pressure to get us into a "finished" house, but if it will cause problems later on with the paint, I'd rather move in to an unpainted house and wait until spring for paint.
    I'd worry more about humidity

    But temp is important too...for temp, follow the mfr's instructions and always choose more temperate days to pursue painting. Trying to sneak it in around the extremes of the recommended temp range will induce more risk obviously. This goes for time of day too. Finishing up in the dark as the temp drops precipitously isn't good either. If you want guaranteed installs, plan the painting around the seasons best suited to doing the work


    Also, cement board siding is way more forgiving than wood [more dimensionally stable, less challenge to the coating]...if that is pertinent
    [my house? i'd wait for spring warmth & dryer days, but i'm in a pretty humid area]

  5. #1280
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    604
    Latest snafu on this old house is a damaged foundation wall in a crawl space beneath a small sunroom external to the main house foundation. There is no footing beneath the foundation wall and I believe a deceased tree root is the likely culprit. I noticed that the ground beneath the plastic sheeting in the crawl was accumulating moisture and pinned it to this spot where I unearthed this crumbled area. Not seeing any other foundation damage or ill affects of not having a footing under the sunroom. Suggestions for patching the foundation here to make things water tight again?
    foundation by snoop luther, on Flickr

    Photo shows the interior side. Can see where the dirt line was before I pulled the dirt back. Hole is almost all the way up to the grade line. Foundation wall height approximately 18".

  6. #1281
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    May 2009
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    inpdx
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    hierarchy of fixes:

    1) check that all gutters are working properly & downspouts kick water away from foundation
    2) cover exposed wall at this area w/ overhanging eave
    3) regrade adjacent earth to direct water away from this zone (or add foundation drain, french drain, etc)
    4) add a physical cover to the exterior of the foundation wall in question (waterproofing membrane or sim)
    5) patch foundation hole but expect water to still find a way in (interior-side waterproofing solutions are not effective unless they are an active water management system (ie pumping away any intruding water))

  7. #1282
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    seattle
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    604
    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    hierarchy of fixes:

    1) check that all gutters are working properly & downspouts kick water away from foundation
    2) cover exposed wall at this area w/ overhanging eave
    3) regrade adjacent earth to direct water away from this zone (or add foundation drain, french drain, etc)
    4) add a physical cover to the exterior of the foundation wall in question (waterproofing membrane or sim)
    5) patch foundation hole but expect water to still find a way in (interior-side waterproofing solutions are not effective unless they are an active water management system (ie pumping away any intruding water))
    Agreed on all fronts. On fix #5, would you recommend cleaning foundation and troweling in mortar adding progressive thicknesses, creating some kind form and pouring concrete, other idea? Struggling with this one. Thanks.

  8. #1283
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    May 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialpy View Post
    Agreed on all fronts. On fix #5, would you recommend cleaning foundation and troweling in mortar adding progressive thicknesses, creating some kind form and pouring concrete, other idea? Struggling with this one. Thanks.
    i'd guess: form one side; make your mix stiff; and pack it in from the other side
    non-shrink grout should be fine for the material

    someone else here may be more experienced on a better solution

  9. #1284
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    Feb 2008
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    seattle
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    604
    Cool, any advice appreciated

  10. #1285
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    Sep 2001
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    The Cone of Uncertainty
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    47,971
    I'd look into foam products and think about just filling it with some waterproof minimally-expanding foam.

  11. #1286
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    5,653
    I'm drilling through metal studs to put up some heavy shelves with a lot of dishes on the shelves. I have no idea how much dishes weigh, but I'd guess the whole setup is maybe 50 pounds. Seems like online research says you should use toggles for metal studs, but since they are not easily available at big box stores, I'm thinking not many people use toggles.

    Do I go to amazon.com and order toggles or use drywall anchors like (maybe) most online advice says? Anyone have real world experience?

  12. #1287
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,228
    No much help for you but one of my least favorite things about metal studs is adding blocking(for cabinets, bathrooms etc etc). Obviously you wouldve had to done this while building, i.e. pre-drywall.

  13. #1288
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    Sep 2001
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    The Cone of Uncertainty
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    Why fuck around? 50-pack of toggles on Grainger for $22. https://www.grainger.com/product/11K...CABEgJU2fD_BwE

  14. #1289
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    Aug 2007
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    5,653
    Because I'm a lazy, sloppy home improvement joe-schmoe. And also with anchors I could be done today, with toggles I'll be done Friday.

  15. #1290
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    Sep 2001
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    The Cone of Uncertainty
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    Ah. Well smoke a joint before you do it, then.

  16. #1291
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Couloirfornia
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    8,817
    I've used those metal drywall anchors that're (supposedly) good for like 50-75 lbs, depending on size. Not sure I'd trust a crapton of dishes to them though. Supposedly they anchor into wooden studs as well. Not sure about metal.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

  17. #1292
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    May 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    I'm drilling through metal studs to put up some heavy shelves with a lot of dishes on the shelves. I have no idea how much dishes weigh, but I'd guess the whole setup is maybe 50 pounds. Seems like online research says you should use toggles for metal studs, but since they are not easily available at big box stores, I'm thinking not many people use toggles.

    Do I go to amazon.com and order toggles or use drywall anchors like (maybe) most online advice says? Anyone have real world experience?

    is it out of view? can you put up plywood over drywall?

  18. #1293
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    base of the Bush
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    11,619
    No hardware store to buy toggles? I can get them there or the local lumberyard.
    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

  19. #1294
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    Aug 2007
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    5,653
    Quote Originally Posted by iceman View Post
    Ah. Well smoke a joint before you do it, then.
    is that the pro trick to avoid throwing tools through drywall?

    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    is it out of view? can you put up plywood over drywall?
    it's in the kitchen, so no I wouldn't put up a bunch of plywood, I wish though. is that what you mean? Or plywood behind the brackets-only?

  20. #1295
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    your vacation
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceman View Post
    Ah. Well smoke a joint before you do it, then.
    it makes everything make sense in my world

    anyone know what the best makeup product or concealer I should use after getting a face shot of sewage today? if it burns alittle do you think I'm ok? didn't have time to wash my face afterwards only had time to wipe it with a dirty rag?

  21. #1296
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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post


    it's in the kitchen, so no I wouldn't put up a bunch of plywood, I wish though. is that what you mean? Or plywood behind the brackets-only?
    after framing inspeciton you install 3/4 ply sheets between the studs for backing

  22. #1297
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    May 2009
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    inpdx
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    is that the pro trick to avoid throwing tools through drywall?



    it's in the kitchen, so no I wouldn't put up a bunch of plywood, I wish though. is that what you mean? Or plywood behind the brackets-only?
    like fastfred said, the right way is putting backing or blocking in the framing before drywall

    in existing finished space, your options are more limited

  23. #1298
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    5,653
    mother fucker!!! oh well, learning a lot in this large remodel throughout the building. just one of many things done out of order....but many things have gone really well I guess.

    thanks guys. I'll do toggles and a joint.

  24. #1299
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    Jan 2008
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    livin the dream
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    3,632
    If you canít open the wall and put in backing... toggles are industry standard in commercial TI work.


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  25. #1300
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    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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    11,735
    Never had any trouble buying toggles at HD. Drywall anchors for a shelf full of dishes sounds insane. Remember that the weight of the dishes is multiplied by the lever arm.
    BTW--after our contractor framed our addition I photographed all the walls so I would know where all the studs and blocking are. Wish I had done that when I framed our second story.

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