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  1. #1201
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    My laundry room gets hot as fuck. Probably 15deg hotter than the rest of the house. Combination of three issues best I can tell:

    1) There is a large window that faces west and gets blasted by sun in the afternoon. Any advice on insulating shades? (cellular shades, solar shades, etc...). Are they worth a damn?

    2) The water heater is in there, naked. I wonder if I frame it in, rigid insulation, make it look like a cabinet.... would that make a difference? I think the window is more of the issue...

    3) Washer / dryer heatin it up. Nothing really I can do there. I think the issues above are more the cause...



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    If the laundry room window is inconspicuous from the outside hang cheap roller shades from the underside of the eaves, if available. We have some bamboo shades that have held up surprisingly well, although we get zero rain in the summer. In a situation where you don't need to be raising and lowering constantly and where appearance is not an issue, shades outside the window are more effective.

    How old is the water heater. If not recent either put a blanket around it or replace it. The new ones are already well insulated.

    I assume the dryer is properly vented to the outside.

    Wash with cold water.

    And the most important thing--spend as little time as possible in the laundry room and the heat won't bother you.

  2. #1202
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    Aug 2007
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    Does it matter what R13 batt I buy? Johns Manville, Owens Corning, etc? Cheaper to buy uncut rolls or really not worth some savings for my time to cut everything? I have maybe 25 batts i need to cut or buy pre-cut.

    I'm installing in bare framing (16" studs) with no drywall on either sides.

  3. #1203
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Does it matter what R13 batt I buy? Johns Manville, Owens Corning, etc? Cheaper to buy uncut rolls or really not worth some savings for my time to cut everything? I have maybe 25 batts i need to cut or buy pre-cut.

    I'm installing in bare framing (16" studs) with no drywall on either sides.
    Brand doesn't matter, no real difference between brands. Pre cuts are 93", so if that works in your bays go for it to avoid the hassle of cutting.
    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

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  4. #1204
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    Realtor sent me some pics last night, wanted to know if I had time to fix this mess. Thankfully not available. 16 yo house, new owner from Baltimore, came up last week to close on the sale with his family and fix a few bad cedar clapboards. Opened a huge can of worms.

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    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

  5. #1205
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    Jul 2014
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    I installed a bidet on my toilet. Ill post some pics later....
    "I don't pretend to have all the answers, and I think there's something to be said for that" -One For The Road

    Brain dead and made of money.

  6. #1206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    Realtor sent me some pics last night
    deck attached directly to wall will do that

    oof, not a good surprise, but better to see that and maybe do some other investigations around the house & make a call on whether it has other poorly crafted moments before actually closing (if not backing out entirely)

  7. #1207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel View Post
    Brand doesn't matter, no real difference between brands. Pre cuts are 93", so if that works in your bays go for it to avoid the hassle of cutting.
    Thanks! they are 98" but i'm taking yer advice

  8. #1208
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    Feb 2012
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Stainless View Post
    I installed a bidet on my toilet. Ill post some pics later....
    Is it gay if you let the stream massage your butthole longer than needed?

    Asking for a friend.


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  9. #1209
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    deck attached directly to wall will do that
    I have a rental where the upstairs deck is connected to the house via a 2 X 10 that is attached to the length of the home. There are hangers on the 2X10 for the joists. I sure hope mine doesn't leak inside the walls like that picture indicates.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  10. #1210
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    I have a rental where the upstairs deck is connected to the house via a 2 X 10 that is attached to the length of the home. There are hangers on the 2X10 for the joists. I sure hope mine doesn't leak inside the walls like that picture indicates.
    in SD? or up at Mammoth?

    you might be able to get away with that kind of stuff in a drier climate...ideally it's properly flashed either way

  11. #1211
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    deck attached directly to wall will do that

    oof, not a good surprise, but better to see that and maybe do some other investigations around the house & make a call on whether it has other poorly crafted moments before actually closing (if not backing out entirely)
    Yeah but there is something else going on too - check out the rot to the right of the deck on the exposed osb. Window flashing maybe. And there is flashing behind the 2x. Maybe it wasn't overlapped by the tyvek. But with rot above the deck as well it feels like there is a building paper problem too - which woudl mean it will show up elsewhere if it was a repeated installation error.

    Good fun.

  12. #1212
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    Quote Originally Posted by beece View Post
    repeated installation error.

    Good fun.
    that's what i'm thinking

  13. #1213
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    Dec 2012
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    I have to renovate a bathroom.

    Any real life feedback on how the Kerdi, Wedi etc. board is holding up now that its been out a while?

    Last bathroom I helped do 15 years ago was cement board + blocker. I hate working with cement board so other than materials cost Kerdi, etc. seems like a good alternative.

    Also, preformed pans vs. made in place. Any advice?
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  14. #1214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    I have to renovate a bathroom.

    Any real life feedback on how the Kerdi, Wedi etc. board is holding up now that its been out a while?

    Last bathroom I helped do 15 years ago was cement board + blocker. I hate working with cement board so other than materials cost Kerdi, etc. seems like a good alternative.

    Also, preformed pans vs. made in place. Any advice?
    The tile guy I respect most is all in on the Schluter systems (Kerdi & family). He says they are more solidly integrated and less prone to installer error

  15. #1215
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47bp View Post
    Is it gay if you let the stream massage your butthole longer than needed?

    Asking for a friend.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Ill have to report back. My wife bought it off Amazon. They have everything.

    I fucked up the fluidmaster somehow and now the shitter is all tuned up with a new one.

    Thing could be a life saver after going to Prince's.
    "I don't pretend to have all the answers, and I think there's something to be said for that" -One For The Road

    Brain dead and made of money.

  16. #1216
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    Quote Originally Posted by hatchgreenchile View Post
    Keep it. You know it's coming back right?
    I was just thinking that with mid century modern being all the rage again these days

  17. #1217
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    How unhealthy is having batts in the walls for weeks, waiting for drywall? Should I wait until the day before drywallers show up? Right now it would be great to put them up to have some sort of work privacy and AC control....

  18. #1218
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    How unhealthy is having batts in the walls for weeks, waiting for drywall? Should I wait until the day before drywallers show up? Right now it would be great to put them up to have some sort of work privacy and AC control....
    PM PG
    I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.

  19. #1219
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    Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

    Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?

  20. #1220
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

    Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?

    Does the wall in question need a certain fire rating to comply with building code (i.e. is it a party wall, occupancy separation, part of an exit enclosure assembly, etc.)? You should be able to make it work, but more info is required for an accurate answer.
    Doesn't mean that much to me, to mean that much to you.

  21. #1221
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

    Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?
    Fire rated 3/4 acx on top of drywall is standard for commercial construction comm rooms and misc back-of-house spaces. They make fire rated paint for plywood as well. I wouldnt hang non-rated wood in a commercial building.... but fire rated ply will be expensive. More cost effective would be plastic/HDPE/FRP wall panels. Cheap ones will look like a run down gas station bathroom. Nice / architectural ones will be more expensive than rated wood.


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  22. #1222
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    Does the wall in question need a certain fire rating to comply with building code (i.e. is it a party wall, occupancy separation, part of an exit enclosure assembly, etc.)? You should be able to make it work, but more info is required for an accurate answer.
    Wall is something we just put up, separates two rooms internally. not an outside wall, no other occupants other than us.

    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Fire rated 3/4” acx on top of drywall is standard for commercial construction comm rooms and misc back-of-house spaces. They make fire rated paint for plywood as well. I wouldn’t hang non-rated wood in a commercial building.... but fire rated ply will be expensive. More cost effective would be plastic/HDPE/FRP wall panels. Cheap ones will look like a run down gas station bathroom. Nice / architectural ones will be more expensive than rated wood.
    Any idea why the drywall needs to be installed too? Jong-question but i'm curious.

    Thanks much, I may go with Fire rated 3/4” acx on the bottom half of the wall only to save money now. I can't find these boards on Lowes/HD, and local lumber yard doesn't look like they have them. Where do people buy these things?

  23. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

    Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?
    I'm guessing you can likely do whatever you want interior finish wise, but there are certainly cases where smoke/fire resistant materials are required. Your local building department likely could answer your question, but they will ask a bunch of building-scale questions to dig down to the right answer.

    Does the space have fire sprinklers? If it does & you are talking about walls that aren't demising walls, you're likely pretty good.

  24. #1224
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Wall is something we just put up, separates two rooms internally. not an outside wall, no other occupants other than us.
    likely you're ok [tho technically a full partition would require a permit, fyi, to deal with exiting at the very least]

    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Any idea why the drywall needs to be installed too? Jong-question but i'm curious.
    it is a better wall from a fire/smoke perspective

    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Thanks much, I may go with Fire rated 3/4” acx on the bottom half of the wall only to save money now. I can't find these boards on Lowes/HD, and local lumber yard doesn't look like they have them. Where do people buy these things?
    i wouldn't until i had a hard answer saying it was required...cheaper to just replace dinged sheetrock, or bumper pieces of plywood or put up FRP

  25. #1225
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Wall is something we just put up, separates two rooms internally. not an outside wall, no other occupants other than us.



    Any idea why the drywall needs to be installed too? Jong-question but i'm curious.

    Thanks much, I may go with Fire rated 3/4 acx on the bottom half of the wall only to save money now. I can't find these boards on Lowes/HD, and local lumber yard doesn't look like they have them. Where do people buy these things?
    In a traditional use the drywall is there for insulation and fire rating, the ply is there to mount stuff and protect. For your use you could just mount the ply to the studs no issue....

    You will have to make a phone call to the lumber yard and talk the salesman. They sell it. Its just likely not stocked.

    For your use, I agree with others that it likely isnt required to be fire rated. Id still install the fire rated stuff just for peace of mind and to avoid going down the rabbit hole with the building Dept.


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