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  1. #976
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    Question of REA's and people in the know....

    Say you have $30k, your home does not have a garage, your home does not have cooling, just cheap wall mounted electric heat. Located in Seattle.

    Option A: Build a basic detached single car garage; no drywall, no plumbing, T1-11 siding ($10k). AND install ducted heat / cooling ($20k)

    Option B: Build a larger/nicer detached garage; with drywall, plumbing, siding and roof to match home ($20k). AND install ductless mini split, 2 units ($10k).

    WWMD? What would have a better resale?
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  2. #977
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    B for sure.

  3. #978
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    Where you getting those budget numbers for the garage projects? They seem 2x to 3x low.

  4. #979
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    $20 grand for option B? You may be high.

  5. #980
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Question of REA's and people in the know....

    Say you have $30k, your home does not have a garage, your home does not have cooling, just cheap wall mounted electric heat. Located in Seattle.

    Option A: Build a basic detached single car garage; no drywall, no plumbing, T1-11 siding ($10k). AND install ducted heat / cooling ($20k)

    Option B: Build a larger/nicer detached garage; with drywall, plumbing, siding and roof to match home ($20k). AND install ductless mini split, 2 units ($10k).

    WWMD? What would have a better resale?
    20k might get you out of the ground, 20k is way low.
    But a man's finished detached garage should be nicer than his house.

  6. #981
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    One of our clients just did a detached garage last year: $129k

    It was nice but not opulent in any way. Insulated, & drywalled/primed. Elec for a home hobby shop included. Cedar shingle was the only “expensive” material (done to match house). It was a 2-car size.

    Sorry, no way you’re building a full garage for $30k in Seattle.

    Are you doing this to improve a sale that you’re planning?

    Or are you just looking to get your money back when you do eventually sell?

  7. #982
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiballs View Post
    20k might get you out of the ground, 20k is way low.
    But a man's finished detached garage should be nicer than his house.
    What he said. On both points.

    Consider so called Pole Buildings, they look nice both inside and out, in a manly, utilitarian way. They're cost more than 30k, no matter where you are located.

    My buddy has one, he uses a nice wood stove to heat the entire space in winter, it stays nice and cool in the height of the summer. Links with two examples, see their nice pictures, these are east coast builders near major urban areas. You should be able to find equivalent in the farming/rural areas outside Seattle.

    http://www.stoltzfus-builders.com/
    http://pioneerpolebuildings.com/residential
    “The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”

    - Winston Churchill, paraphrased.

  8. #983
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    One of our clients just did a detached garage last year: $129k

    It was nice but not opulent in any way. Insulated, & drywalled/primed. Elec for a home hobby shop included. Cedar shingle was the only “expensive” material (done to match house). It was a 2-car size.

    Sorry, no way you’re building a full garage for $30k in Seattle.

    Are you doing this to improve a sale that you’re planning?

    Or are you just looking to get your money back when you do eventually sell?
    I don’t think someone commissioning an architect to build a 2 car garage is really the best example of some normal situation.

    That being said 2 car finished with drywall an electric is going to run more like 40-60k contracted out. (basic 20x24 box). But definitely not 130. That’s closer to 300 a square. No fucking way a garage should cost that much. But it’s not going to be 40 a square either. That’ll get you maybe the concrete and maybe a door.
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  9. #984
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    To clarify: The $20k garage is 1.5 car, 14’x20’, to stay inside the “aux structure permit” built by myself, not hiring anyone but maybe labor to help dig and hang drywall.


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  10. #985
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    Are you doing this to improve a sale that you’re planning?

    Or are you just looking to get your money back when you do eventually sell?
    Doing this because I want a garage and a better heating/cooling situation but am thinking about an eventual sale 10 years from now.


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  11. #986
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdironRider View Post
    I don’t think someone commissioning an architect to build a 2 car garage is really the best example of some normal situation.

    That being said 2 car finished with drywall an electric is going to run more like 40-60k contracted out. (basic 20x24 box). But definitely not 130. That’s closer to 300 a square. No fucking way a garage should cost that much. But it’s not going to be 40 a square either. That’ll get you maybe the concrete and maybe a door.
    That was a GC price for a modest garage.

    We did our own garage 20x24 back in 2003. I framed it along with a hired hand to save on labor and GC markup. It was still $50k back then.

    Quote Originally Posted by AdironRider View Post
    I No fucking way a garage should cost that much.
    That’s what everyone says...
    It’s not the 60’s anymore

  12. #987
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    We did our own garage 20x24 back in 2003. I framed it along with a hired hand to save on labor and GC markup. It was still $50k back then.
    Geez! Where would you say most of the cost was. Concrete slab? I know lumber prices are bonkers, but wow that's a lot of money for mostly DIY. I can believe it, though. I'm in the process of building a deck. Doing it myself, got my foundation pimped, footings poured, posts and framing's completed and we're already a couple grand into the bastard. Gonna be $6K (with wholesale pricing) by the time I'm done and that's not even close to a building type project like a garage, so no roof, plumbing, electric, etc. I can see how all that stuff could quickly add up. Thank God I'm handy as a mofo or no way could I afford these kinds of additions.

    Still not seeing the math on 130K, though unless it's a contractor's typical "go away, we're busy" price. Haha.

  13. #988
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    That was a GC price for a modest garage.

    We did our own garage 20x24 back in 2003. I framed it along with a hired hand to save on labor and GC markup. It was still $50k back then.



    That’s what everyone says...
    It’s not the 60’s anymore
    Just had a friend build a detached 2 car in SLC for around 35k. That was for having a GC demo and remove the old one and build the new. He had to do a firewall on 2 sides due to being on lot line. No idea on the interior finish/heat situation/windows/doors/etc.

    My nearly 100 yo detached garage is literally crumbling. This thread reminds me that I have to get on that stat.

  14. #989
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    I stand by my statement that you aren't going to be paying close to 300 a square for a basic garage. That is new build house territory, and most wouldn't consider that modest.

    Unless he wants to jump the line, if the market is still gangbusters that will be the hardest part and would cost a premium to get a guy to do that for a basic garage, but it sounds like he's owner building so that doesn't sound like the case.

    That all being said, a 14x20' the foundation alone is probably above the typical owner build capacity, and would run 15-20k subbed out here in my hood and be the biggest line item. Truss package maybe 5k (including renting a gradall and some hombre labor for a day to install), door probably 5 installed, and then electrical (which I'm guessing will require a licensed pro in a place like Seattle, unlike Idaho where owners can self perform) at 5-10kish for a basic setup. Throw in another 5ish for framing/sheathing, 2.5k for a roof, 2.5 for some basic siding, and maybe another 5 for a couple windows and drywall (all self performed). Thats 45-55k all in, with all the hard stuff subbed. If he GC's it, they are going to send a carpenter and a general laborer for a month (if that) and that'll cost 15k ish at 50 an hour. Tack on 5kish for the GC fee. Thats 75 grand and you are nowhere near 130k even if you spent 15k to side the entire thing in cedar.

    I'm sure there are some slight variances from my market to yours but not 50-75 grand and I think I'm pricing very high (GMP style).
    Live Free or Die

  15. #990
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdironRider View Post
    I stand by my statement that you aren't going to be paying close to 300 a square for a basic garage. That is new build house territory, and most wouldn't consider that modest.
    Building a new house for $300/square foot. That's quaint.
    Set my compass North, I got Winter in my blood.

  16. #991
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    Building a new house for $300/square foot. That's quaint.
    That equates to almost 650k cost to build for the median housing square footage in the area (new build). I don't think I'm being inaccurate in saying that is a not-modest price/build once you back out the value of the land/utility tie ins & impact fees, which don't apply here.
    Live Free or Die

  17. #992
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    Ok, I called the GC

    He said there were some mitigating scope factors:
    A new stormwater facility was required (excavation & install)
    Moving some adjacent site features since footprint wasn’t clean
    Elec service move & upgrade (power was attached to old garage.
    Shingle siding, window trim & rafter tails to match house

    He said more likely “normal” baseline should have been $80k

  18. #993
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    Spend the money on the mini split, ducting will be a fortune if you don't have it, ask me how I know.i wanted to add an ERV for fresh air all winter so I went the ducted route. Build the garage as you can afford it. Foundation and drive will be the big expenses. 14' wide is easily framed without trusses and lift.

    Building bit by bit is a time honored Vermont tradition. Put in the foundation, deck it over and tarp it. Wood stove in the cellar and move right in. Someday you'll have enough time and money to built the actual house.

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  19. #994
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    Ok, I called the GC

    He said there were some mitigating scope factors:
    A new stormwater facility was required (excavation & install)
    Moving some adjacent site features since footprint wasn’t clean
    Elec service move & upgrade (power was attached to old garage.
    Shingle siding, window trim & rafter tails to match house

    He said more likely “normal” baseline should have been $80k
    Yeah that'll do it pretty quick.

    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    Spend the money on the mini split, ducting will be a fortune if you don't have it, ask me how I know.i wanted to add an ERV for fresh air all winter so I went the ducted route. Build the garage as you can afford it. Foundation and drive will be the big expenses. 14' wide is easily framed without trusses and lift.

    Building bit by bit is a time honored Vermont tradition. Put in the foundation, deck it over and tarp it. Wood stove in the cellar and move right in. Someday you'll have enough time and money to built the actual house.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using TGR Forums mobile app
    I've always chuckled at the guys who have trailers then slowly build a "house" (basically a pole barn) around it. Seemed to be a staple in NH growing up. Someday they'll get there.
    Live Free or Die

  20. #995
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    Nov 2002
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    So we got $20K on the low end and $130 on the high end. "I don't know exactly how much it will cost but it will probably be between these two numbers". I wish my job was that easy. There are huge regional variations in labor pricing i.e. I've been offered jobs is Salt Lake as a project manager for a custom home builder and also as a crew lead for millwork installer. It is a joke, like 7-11 counter jockey type joke. I also have a good friend that a remodel/addition general contractor/self-perform in Bellevue and his bid rates are substantially higher than most Colorado mountain communities.

    Engineering requirements vary widely also. The difference between 120psf snowload, energy code requirements, 30" below frost line stem walls etc. and 2x4 and buffalo board/T111 framing, monslabs, etc. is a huge cost driver.

  21. #996
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    Aug 2007
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    So my contractor is too busy to organize shit in a timely manner, so I went to a couple window and garage stores to get quotes on 7 windows and a garage door. One was wholesale only, NorthwestDoors (fuckers could have at least shown me product), one gave me a garage quote (thank you!), and the other two companies haven't called me back with quotes even after getting back to them via email and phone. Any advice on how to do something simple like get quotes online for a fucking window? JFC I hate the building industry with a passion. Deja vu every time....

    I'm looking for metal/aluminum windows, or just aluminum clad on the outside to save money. I'm looking for a modern metal garage with a smooth finish, seems like everything flush actually has a bumpy pattern on it to hide flaws...is that unavoidable without paying a crazy amount like 10k? Anyone know of a good company that is a step above box stores but not high end? These look nice, and they CAN be residential doors even though it's commercial purpose. http://www.nwdusa.com/residential/modern-tech . Those might be 10K though, I can't spend nearly that.


    Seems like Lowes is the only big box store with metal clad windows, they gave me a quote as I sat, some Pella windows that would work. Am I wasting my time dealing with higher end window shops with dumbass salesmen who can't even get a quote out? Should I get pella and and be done with it? Any other brands that I should be looking at?

  22. #997
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    Is your GC waiting for you to choose windows before pricing? Or had he said he’d pick something and give you a price with install? If your windows don’t need to be insulated, there are options, but your overworked (or lazy) GC needs to call on the providers

    There are direct-to-homeowner window sales: look for “replacement” windows (I doubt though that you’ll find all metal windows as they don’t meet code anymore...metal clad wood is more likely)

  23. #998
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    Why would you choose metal frame windows that conduct heat/cold instead of vinyl/pvc frames?

  24. #999
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    we've been happy with Milgard in a couple of different applications--aluminum, back when you could still get them in california, and vinyl. We've been unhappy with Pella--wood, sills rotted on the front of the house (SE) but not SW or NW.

  25. #1000
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    Apr 2006
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    I just got a aluminum Milgard replacement window for my Tahoe house last year so it's possible

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